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About secretasianman

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  1. As the immortal Shodog has stated, he wetsands between clearcots. which is an identical approach auto-body experts use. a single coat of paint will look like a toy. after the color is laid down, you would wetsand the paint, then clearcoat it. it's also referred to as color sanding. and one coat of clear can't be enough for many.... i'll let Shodog share his technique if he chooses
  2. Overpowered minis are insane bashers. It's fun to see them fly, crash, tumble, and keep going. I've abused my RC-18B and never replaced a thing until I converted it to an 18R and even then I've never actually *broken* a part. Which is more than I can say for my poor buggy champ which is waiting for a new rear arm mount Kyosho has their reputation. I say "Do it."
  3. Here's a thread that attempted to catalog all the details between the originals and the re-releases: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry239609 hope it helps!
  4. i think airmail to the states takes much longer
  5. They're legitimate, however shipping is slow. Good for rare parts and good prices. Not so good if you're in a hurry.
  6. There's not much to it besides the motor mount and weight savings. The geometry may be identical, but it's not as constrictive as the plastic tub. The open design may accommodate larger spurs If your stock TT-01 didn't have an upper deck, you have one now. plus: There's a resin member between the upper and lower decks that you can move forward and backward (3 positions) to tune the flex and some torsion. IMO you won't be able to fully benefit from the chassis upgrade unless you're moving suspension hardware from the D or R variants, or separately purchased the hop-ups. Since the weight has changed as well as the chassis flex, playing with the front & rear camber should be the first thing you tune.
  7. hope this works http://www.hpiracing.com/manuals/pdf/451.pdf edit - whoops, looks like the archive links on archive.hpiracing.com are screwed up. i'll dig for the right manual when i get home.
  8. The boys on rccrawler.com seem to swear by them, but I'm not sure if they're referring to the (very) short center driveshafts that connect the transmission to the front and rear gearboxes or the axles that run from the gearboxes to the hub carriers. I got a pair for my Juggernaut crawler to replace the finnicky punisher shaft I use now but since I'm also sporting BTA steering I encountered clearance issues with the servo. Regarless, you will the following: Shaft assemblies: no yokes, if you buy the assembled set, one end has the half-shaft assembly and the yoke is a nightmare to remove since they use c-clips and not e-clips. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXHFY1&P=Z U-joints and yokes to go with the assemblies: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXHFY4&P=Z http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXMJG9&P=Z three things: 1 - They're a tad long for the stock txt. remove the blue rubber dust boot, slide them apart and cut one inch from The larger, outer sleeve and the shaft will be able to clear the distance between the transmission and gearcase. 2 - You'll probably have to grind the transmission yokkes clear the case. 3 - The set screw goes clear through the yoke to the other side and the 6mm txt output shafts are drilled through bevel to bevel, You'll probably never worry about a loose or lost shaft ever again.
  9. Thanks for the correction, I'm sure the VXL is awesome How is the stability? Do you get any chassis twist? did you need to stiffen up the suspension? Is the AX-10 stock gearing low? and did you gear up?
  10. You can't have both by dropping twin 550's and 12 cells in it. But you can compromise. Are they stock 550's or the low turn modifieds? Gear down to find stability before plucking cells, and maybe lengthen the lower front links to gain a negative caster for better straight-line running at higher speeds. If you use 4-wheel steering, reduce the throw on the rear servo by moving the drag link to the hole closest to the servo fulcrum. Also, check out the general TXT build on rccrawler.com for lowering the chassis. that means cutting and relocating links but articulation is barely compromised. If you keep the anti-sway bars, chassis roll should be kept to a minimum but the truck should still be able to flex over small obstacles. In general, lower = more stable. By lowering the chassis using their general method you can benefit from running at higher speeds but should still be able to tackle rough terrain. It may not be e-maxx-like but you may come close because those are the two things besides independent suspension that separates an e-maxx and a TXT: center of gravity and a front caster setup condusive to straight running.
  11. actually i those links come in the kit bent for clearance, if it's not an aftermarket part.
  12. A piggy back doesn't provide more travel. It's an oil reservoir which makes for consistent dampening. what it does is virtually extend the shock body so that the viscosity and dampening resistance doesn't change when the piston "bottoms out" at the cylinder top.
  13. yes, it has oil shocks and red springs. shockingly there's nothing drastically different about rc drift cars and standard tourers. all you need is torque to lay down, super hard tires that easily break free of traction and relatively stiff suspensions that won't absorb your slide when you start to pitch sideways.
  14. From a technical perspective, the Komodo dragon is a nice motor. solder it up, break it in. good speed and torque. it even has an integrated board with capacitors on top of the endbell. no more messy caps to solder or get in the way!
  15. The Axial is indeed smaller than a Mod Clod, but the benefit is you can use it to compete in the more challenging 2.2 class. Unlike the Super class, your size is limited and rear-steering is prohibited. However it seems some of the super-class crawlers are migrating to the 2.2 class for the added challenge as relatively unrestricted regulations seems to take away some of the difficulty. My first observation is the Axial is an excellent truck with an excellent design OOB, as with various other forums, links could be moved for improved articulation, weight can be trimmed and lowered, tires can be changed etc. IMO if you were to make only one change, wire your own battery and spread the cells out on the front axle. The default location "on top" has too much altitude. If I weren't chin-deep in last year's impulse buys I'd run out and get this kit without thinking twice. (the only car I've bought this year was a HPI sprint 2, scout's honor) Plus HPI has that wheely king conversion coming soon and Tamiya's exciting FJ-40..... aww F-it. I'm collecting them all.
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