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Everything posted by Origineelreclamebord

  1. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm, what to do with it!?

    The club member asked if it were possible using the original MDC components, just a modified housing to help centre a modern spur correctly. To fit a modern slipper, the topshaft does need modification to achieve this. RCVet: In racing conditions the Dyna Storm is truly a vintage car to drive with compared to modern rear-motor buggies (like the B4 and the original rear-motored TRF201). The car was designed with a completely different philiosophy of what was a fast car and a fast way to get around a track. In that era, you had very bumpy tracks, less powerful motors and less grippy tires. Some adjustments (such as shorter front shocks) do wonders for vintage racing, but it still does not stack up against a modern car even on dirt. For bashing you may encounter more bumps than on the track, so it might be a different story there. I do know that the Dyna certainly has at least as much fun factor as a modern rear or even mid buggy, both on- and off the racing track :-)
  2. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm, what to do with it!?

    The alu bulkheads/suspension blocks are new to me, they are cool! Am I seeing correctly that the rear hangers even have the 2* anti-squat integrated? As for an aluminium chassis plate, I have one (I drew it for SHY69, we both got one). Durability-wise it of course is great, but performance-wise I'm not sure if it is better. The Dyna Storm has a tendency to tweak the chassis from bumps. With the FRP chassis I think most of the tweak flexed back again (because it was so flexible); with the alu chassis to me it seemed to retain a lot more tweak. PS: I am not often online on TC anymore, I just happened to notice the topic at the right time :-) Through ORB I have a lot of Dyna parts available these days; bulkheads, hubs, wishbones, steering, shock towers & mounts, slipper cap... A member at my local club recently asked if it might be possible to create a slipper housing that accepts modern / 48dp spur gears (for example if the centre is cut out); at the same time it could lighten the slipper assembly.
  3. Origineelreclamebord

    fwd buggy

    The Ryuz FF is originally from the late 80s/early 90s; it's a hand-built prototype; FWD was used because back in the day it was not uncommon to race on loose dirt: There were also three brands that released production FWD buggy kits: Kyosho (Maxxum FF), MRC (Sandmaster) and Nichimo (Vantage & Spirit FF). The fine details I don't know because I wasn't in the RC hobby yet back then, but I have heard FWD was popular in several regions, amongst which Japan and France. They were also around for a short amount of time as a result of their success: The story is that one or several drivers - who were beforehand not considered to be in contention for the win - turned up at an IFMAR Worlds' warm-up with such cars and dominated the event; the IFMAR banned them from the 2WD class - instead it was to run with 4WD, where it couldn't keep up. Regulations from regional racing organisations also banned the car (although the EFRA and BRCA reverted that a few years later). In that time, developing and producing a car required more resources and effort than it does now, so being that the car had no competitive advantage anymore, it no longer had a place in the product line-up of a car manufacturer. 25 years on, and the story is quite different: tires, shocks and knowledge on RWD suspension geometry had been developed significantly. Also, most tracks nowadays are not nearly as bumpy and the grip levels are higher. The FWD's strengths (consistency in all conditions) still apply and the performance of the cars is quite even now; the FWD buggy can have some advantage in tricky conditions, the RWD can have the benefit if there is good and consistent grip. PS: This is what a modern FWD buggy performs like amongst RWDs:
  4. Origineelreclamebord

    October Competition ?

    Fun competition theme I'm curious to see what entries there will be, it's very much open to interpretation.
  5. Time for a mid-summer clearout! I've got parts for sale for many cars, so have a look through the list if anything is of interest to you Pictures are available on Dropbox (LINK).
  6. Origineelreclamebord


  7. Origineelreclamebord


  8. Origineelreclamebord

    Parts Clearout (Tamiya, Kyosho, Durango, Associated, TLR and more)

    Bump - Sold items are crossed off the list.
  9. Origineelreclamebord

    I think I may have sinned.

    I can't comment specifically on this car, but generally there are problems with one or more of the following problems: - The parts are weak or brittle. - The parts wear quickly. - The parts are not easily available, or outside Europe (so you have to face customs sooner or later), or not even available at all. - The sizes/dimensions are just a tad off from what leading manufacturers use, so you can't fit stronger parts from those cars easily (or at all). - The electronics are of poor quality, - The electronics are good, but not strong enough for the scale/size of car (so you'll burn your ESC the first time you hit some serious off-road work for example). In all too many cases you hear people afterwards that the maintenance cost so much, they might just as well have bought a more expensive set so it would've held out. I know the story doesn't apply to all of such cars, but beware that the fun may not last if you spend more time fixing the car than driving it. The bigger names of old have a reputation built up that they are not willing to risk with models that don't meet the demands of the customer. There's plenty to choose from, and if it'll be a runner anyway it might be worth tracking down a second hand example that's been run only a couple of times before the owner decided the hobby is not for him/her... Or maybe even a new model where the packaging was damaged in shipment - it can often save you a third off the usual retail price.
  10. Origineelreclamebord

    TLT-1 questions

    It's really easy to do custom projects with a TLT-1. It's fun, and admittedly you're better off throwing out the original gearbox: It's Centre of Gravity (CoG) is way too high. This is what I made: It's pretty simple really: These are the mods I did: - I replaced the standard gearbox for a Traxxas 1/16 unit - it lowers the CoG, it's cheap and more durable than the Tamiya unit, it has a slipper clutch in it (even if it's a basic one) and the option for a centre diff.. - I made a custom chassis with a longer wheelbase from G10 composite material. - I used adapters and Traxxas telescopic driveshafts for the drivetrain connection. - The 4-link system is lengthened with M3 threaded rod - it's not the most durable solution as they buckle in hard impacts, but that also reliefs the stresses on other parts. - I bought some extra TLT-1 parts - to be precise, the battery tray and the long chassis screws and posts. - I replaced the small TLT-1 tires with ones from the Wild Willy/Lunchbox/etc. for some extra ground clearance. - I bought an HPI Wheely King body to fit on the car. The result is a 1/12-ish scale Monster truck in which I can fit a 540 or a 380 motor - though I can tell you from experience, 380 brushless power is plenty The double battery cradle means I can fit a 'Shorty' LiPo pack in it. The car is seriously quick but at the same time it's still fun-sized - it fits in my backpack!
  11. Origineelreclamebord

    If Tamiya Pinions are made of Cheese...

    I had a colleague who had two of these cars for his sons, he had the same problems, maybe even worse: He tried reinforced parts on the car (even aftermarket metal spur gears and stuff), but it either also broke down or it made something else wear down even quicker. it may be a cheap car to buy but the quality is so @(*! that I think you're better off switching it for a car that doesn't break every time the wheels roll...
  12. Origineelreclamebord

    58577 Nova Fox

    I'm not a NovaFox owner, but f it's not the gear mesh, the gears inside the diff or sand/stones in the gears, then I think you should check your bearings are still in good condition (including those of the motor). If it's also not that, the Superstock RZ is a brushed motor, they're sensitive to dirt and dust, so I think you might want to check the condition of your brushes and commutator.
  13. Origineelreclamebord

    broken chassis, what to repair with?

    Can you show on an exploded view what area this part is located? Then it's a bit more clear if it's a component subject to high loads or not... Also, am I correct in thinking it is ABS plastic?
  14. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm modified parts ?

    The Nimrod parts are beautiful, but quite brittle, and nowadays, the company seems to have seized their activities. Anyway, I know a solution: 3D printed parts by ORB Racing: Overview of the parts: Example of a printed kickup plate: Example of a printed front bulkhead: The parts are designed to be more durable and make maintenance easier - just to name two examples: There are hexagonal slots for nyloc nuts in multiple components so you can ditch the press nuts and work with nuts that are easy to re-tighten or unbolt. Also, there is more material in places where the old parts were prone to breakage (like the shock tower mount on the front bulkhead). However, despite these improvements, the seperate components are fully compatible with the original car and are intended to retain the spirit of the car. There are some parts that do alter geometry, or allow you to run modern driveshafts and wheels, but these are listed as such. The parts are made from a nylon powder that's sintered (melted) together by a laser. The material is very resistant to impact, which makes it very tough and perfectly suited to make RC parts from. Currently, from the parts you see in the overview, ORB Racing has available: - D1+D2 Rear Suspension Blocks - D5 Front Bulkhead - H1+H2 C-Hubs - H1+H2 C-Hubs +3mm offset (widens the front end by 3mm on each side, which gives the car the original track width when running TRF201 front wheels) - H3+H4 Steering Arms You can contact ORB Racing by email: Orbracing@gmail.com The following parts are currently under development: - D3 Rear Shock Tower Mount (with fine tuning options for roll centre) - E4 Kickup Plate - B1 Rear Suspension Arms - B2 Front Suspension Arms - K1+K4 Battery Tray - C1 Rear Uprights for TRF201 Driveshafts (to run modern rear wheels) - Carbon Fibre Front Shock Tower for TRF (74mm) shocks - Carbon Fibre Rear Shock Tower for TRF (91mm) shocks
  15. Origineelreclamebord

    AC210FF, 2nd Gen FWD Competition Buggy

    Sorry for the late reply! But to answer your question, testing has gone great! I have built and run a third prototype, and with this I have recently won a championship! What's even better, I've won the championship from TLR team driver Wesley van Helmond - he was the Junior European Champion in 2013, so when that happens, you know you're going quick! I'm currently working towards making a conversion kit for the DEX210, so other drivers can enjoy this kit too! More information is available on https://www.facebook.com/orbracing
  16. Origineelreclamebord

    AC210FF, 2nd Gen FWD Competition Buggy

    So here we go... the development of a second prototype/generation FWD Buggy Before I say anything more... if you are interested about the previous development, this topic may be useful for you: TamiyaClub Thread: TRF201FF (Generation 1 FWD Competition Buggy) Also, if you want a complete overview of the whole project (first and second prototype), this link may be relevant for you: oOple Thread: Complete thread on FF/FWD Buggy Development And here are some movies of the first prototype in action: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So in short... I have been working on a front wheel driven buggy for use in 1/10 Offroad racing. The reason for it... Well, out of curiosity I'd say. Prototypes of these popped up for a short period around 1990 and proved to be a very promising concept... until they were banned from the IFMAR (World Championships) for the 2WD class. These cars vanished from the racing scene, but many regulations do allow them. I want to know if more than 20 years later, in the age of Brushless and LiPo, this concept can still be competitive. (I'm not mentioning here that I love that they're different and I think they look very cool) So I started making a first prototype in November 2011, and by August 2012 it hit a track for the first time. It quickly became apparent that the first prototype had a promising pace (see youtube movies), but all the points to improve on were so big that it made no sense to update the car. A new car, built from scratch, would be the way to go. And that's what this topic is about: The development of the second FWD Buggy. Without further ado, the design: The design couldn't be much more different from the last car - I pretty much only use two parts from the last car (DB01 suspension blocks and wheels) - the rest is all new. The reason for this lies in some of the changes that the car needed (it will hopefully be self-explanatory later on). These are the main changes/improvements: 1. Team Durango DEX210 Gearbox: This gearbox has many advantages over the gearbox of the last prototype. First of all, the rotation direction of the motor can be changed by adding a 4th gear to the gearbox. This reverses the direction of the reactional force of the motor casing too. On the first prototype, this direction (3-gear gearbox) pulled the chassis out of the suspension, which theoretically means you lose grip, whereas a 4-gear gearbox layout should gain you grip when the motor pushes the chassis into the suspension. On this gearbox I can test both layouts and see what (and how big) an impact this has on performance. Besides the 3 vs. 4-gear gearbox layout I can put a ball differential and (oil-filled) gear differential in there, allowing me to test the difference of the two diffs on the same car. Lastly, the slipper clutch assembly allows the use of an upright shock layout. 2. Team Durango as main supplier of donor parts: I hope this speaks for itself when I'm using a Durango gearbox. 3. Upright shock layout: I really liked the inboard suspension of the first car. However, the system is complicated and therefor difficult to understand. By using the upright shock layout, I take away one system that is difficult to understand so I can compare the performance of the FWD system easier and more accurately with a RWD system. 4. Driveshafts in line with outdrives: On the first prototype I tried to get the weight balance further forward by moving the gearbox further to the front. This put the driveshafts at an angle. Fact is, the greater the angle of a universal shaft, the more inconsistent it's rotational velocity becomes. This causes a loss of grip because your tire speeds up and slows down constantly (even when you're holding the same amount of throttle). Therefor, putting the driveshafts in line reduces this problem as far as I possibly can. It also moves the motor further to the axles. It might not be ideal for the weight balance, but it certainly does help to reduce the diving/dangling nature of the front end on bumpy surfaces (much like it also occurs on rear vs. mid-motor on bumpy surfaces) - not speaking of the reduction of digging into the ground on bumpy tracks or bad landings. 5. Shorty LiPo across width of chassis: I noticed in the tests that the forward weight balance doesn't seem to affect jumping much - as long as you have extra throttle to play with in the air. Also, the rear end didn't seem to need much weight on it. However, forward traction is always welcome. So by rotating the LiPo battery 90 degrees the car gets a weight balance that is further forward despite the fact that the motor is further to the back because the driveshafts are now in line. 6. New chassis layout: On the last car I didn't take into account where the ESC, Receiver, Transponder and wiring needed to go This time atround I have, and there is enough space behind the battery for all electronics. Alternatively, electronics can also be placed on the top chassis deck. 7. Updated Ackermann and Bump-Steer Geometry: This geometry was far off on the last car - and it didn't have enough of a steering angle in general. This problem should be largely solved on this car - and it can be shimmed and adjusted a lot to try out different settings. 8. Reducing anti-squat/kickup to zero: The first prototype had anti-squat/kickup on the front (like any buggy has on the front, but then a bit less). However, it became apparent that the reducing the anti-squat helped forward traction a lot, so this prototype has zero anti-squat/kickup. 9. Less Parts and smarter construction: This is for obvious reasons... It makes the car quicker to build, easier and more fun to work on, cheaper to manufacture, and with less parts there is less to break down I've already made a first mockup of the new front end: This mockup is to check if my CAD models of the existing parts are accurate with the real parts - to prevent getting a headache when I have expensive parts made that turn out to not fit. I can confirm though that all parts fit as expected Also, in the flesh you can spots some things you wouldn't on the screen with the CAD file in front of you. For example, I do find that the front end is kind of narrow - I knew this might be an issue and it indeed is. I am going to look at different driveshafts that might be a better fit. However, if that doesn't work I already have a setup that mostly works. There are also some other small mods, but not really worth mentioning
  17. Origineelreclamebord

    Tamiya Dyna Storm Rebuild

    I have a spare battery tray: It has a lot scuffs and marks from use, but it is a complete and standard piece (K4 base+2x K1 posts), and mechanically intact (no cracks, not even at the screw posts, like I've seen on many other units I've seen). If you're interested, drop me a PM.
  18. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm Re Re Re

    Hehe ok. Well, you were not the only one interested in the bumper, so I modelled it anyway Here it is: The picture might speak for itself, but I'll explain it anyway: - The part has a better fit with the leading edge of the chassis, which will add to the durability and is one less spot where dirt can collect. - The 1.5mm aluminium shims under the steering posts are no longer needed, as they are integrated into the plate itself - it's much easier when working on the car, not to mention you don't have to source the shims if they're missing on your project Dyna! - The plate features slots for nyloc hex nuts, again making it easier when you're working on the car. - The front bumper has been made slightly smaller to make some weight savings, and features two ribs to reinforce it. Of course these features are added without making modifications. The test part has been ordered tonight and soon its fit and durability will be tested To prevent sending the topic too far off course, if anyone wants more info on these parts, send me a PM.
  19. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm Re Re Re

    Sorry for the late reply, but to answer your question: If you're interested to become the first customer, sure thing! The thing is, I need a customer to justify the time investment to model the parts. Perhaps more importantly (in case of projects where I don't own the car the parts belong to), the first customer is crucial for me to supply feedback about the fit and performance of the part. Anyway, if you're interested in a bumper or motor guard, just send me an email (Orbracing@gmail.com)
  20. Origineelreclamebord

    TRF201 Hex adapters

    Just a small update: I just saw a sale on oOple of Tamiya 12mm clamp hexes for the TRF503 (it should also work with your TRF201) - the part number is #9804801
  21. Origineelreclamebord

    TRF201 Hex adapters

    If you're looking to use parts that you can bolt on straight away, search through the Tamiya sub-forum on oOple - I recall some TRF503 users are using 12mm hexes on their cars - if it works on those cars it will work on the TRF201, too. As a home-brewn solution, I Wild Willy (wide) hexes that I had cut down in width slightly (and I recall the hole drilled up to 5mm) - I only used them occasionally (as my most commonly used tires were on pin-type wheels), but they still lasted me 2 years. One of them stripped when a nyloc wheel nut loosened, if that hadn't happened, it would still be happily running these hexes today
  22. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm Re Re Re

    Max: You've got a PM - adding anti-squat should be pretty easy
  23. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm Re Re Re

    @Max: The printed parts fix just about everything that is weak on the Dyna Storm. The alu chassis is a one-off for now, but I may look into options for a 3D printed kickup plate in the future (or an entire chassis). @Thommo: You've received a reply
  24. Origineelreclamebord

    Dyna Storm Re Re Re

    I know the Dyna Storm is getting pretty rare, but they don't have to make it again: Apart from the gearbox all the parts can be either cut from CF plate, made with 3D printing or sourced from other cars to keep them running (or make them run better) For example, I have made improved parts to replace the weak Dyna Storm and Astute parts: More pictures of the aluminium kickup chassis: http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122971&id=22450 Also, you might notice some 3D printed pieces on there: Front Uprights Steering Rack Front Suspension Block Rear Suspension Blocks Rear Uprights (Dyna Storm Only) All parts have the original geometry, but use more material in critical areas and are made for M3 threaded screws instead of self-tapping ones. They are 3D printed from a Nylon material (in white or black). I can tell from my own experience and those of others that the parts are much stronger than the originals - in racing conditions and some with brushless systems! I also have all the D-parts of the Astute, upgrade parts for some modern race cars and the collection is expanding If you would like any more information on the parts, just send me a PM.