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Origineelreclamebord

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Everything posted by Origineelreclamebord

  1. The club member asked if it were possible using the original MDC components, just a modified housing to help centre a modern spur correctly. To fit a modern slipper, the topshaft does need modification to achieve this. RCVet: In racing conditions the Dyna Storm is truly a vintage car to drive with compared to modern rear-motor buggies (like the B4 and the original rear-motored TRF201). The car was designed with a completely different philiosophy of what was a fast car and a fast way to get around a track. In that era, you had very bumpy tracks, less powerful motors and less grippy tires. Some adjustments (such as shorter front shocks) do wonders for vintage racing, but it still does not stack up against a modern car even on dirt. For bashing you may encounter more bumps than on the track, so it might be a different story there. I do know that the Dyna certainly has at least as much fun factor as a modern rear or even mid buggy, both on- and off the racing track :-)
  2. The alu bulkheads/suspension blocks are new to me, they are cool! Am I seeing correctly that the rear hangers even have the 2* anti-squat integrated? As for an aluminium chassis plate, I have one (I drew it for SHY69, we both got one). Durability-wise it of course is great, but performance-wise I'm not sure if it is better. The Dyna Storm has a tendency to tweak the chassis from bumps. With the FRP chassis I think most of the tweak flexed back again (because it was so flexible); with the alu chassis to me it seemed to retain a lot more tweak. PS: I am not often online on TC anymore, I just happened to notice the topic at the right time :-) Through ORB I have a lot of Dyna parts available these days; bulkheads, hubs, wishbones, steering, shock towers & mounts, slipper cap... A member at my local club recently asked if it might be possible to create a slipper housing that accepts modern / 48dp spur gears (for example if the centre is cut out); at the same time it could lighten the slipper assembly.
  3. The Ryuz FF is originally from the late 80s/early 90s; it's a hand-built prototype; FWD was used because back in the day it was not uncommon to race on loose dirt: There were also three brands that released production FWD buggy kits: Kyosho (Maxxum FF), MRC (Sandmaster) and Nichimo (Vantage & Spirit FF). The fine details I don't know because I wasn't in the RC hobby yet back then, but I have heard FWD was popular in several regions, amongst which Japan and France. They were also around for a short amount of time as a result of their success: The story is that one or several drivers - who were beforehand not considered to be in contention for the win - turned up at an IFMAR Worlds' warm-up with such cars and dominated the event; the IFMAR banned them from the 2WD class - instead it was to run with 4WD, where it couldn't keep up. Regulations from regional racing organisations also banned the car (although the EFRA and BRCA reverted that a few years later). In that time, developing and producing a car required more resources and effort than it does now, so being that the car had no competitive advantage anymore, it no longer had a place in the product line-up of a car manufacturer. 25 years on, and the story is quite different: tires, shocks and knowledge on RWD suspension geometry had been developed significantly. Also, most tracks nowadays are not nearly as bumpy and the grip levels are higher. The FWD's strengths (consistency in all conditions) still apply and the performance of the cars is quite even now; the FWD buggy can have some advantage in tricky conditions, the RWD can have the benefit if there is good and consistent grip. PS: This is what a modern FWD buggy performs like amongst RWDs:
  4. Fun competition theme I'm curious to see what entries there will be, it's very much open to interpretation.
  5. Time for a mid-summer clearout! I've got parts for sale for many cars, so have a look through the list if anything is of interest to you Pictures are available on Dropbox (LINK).
  6. I can't comment specifically on this car, but generally there are problems with one or more of the following problems: - The parts are weak or brittle. - The parts wear quickly. - The parts are not easily available, or outside Europe (so you have to face customs sooner or later), or not even available at all. - The sizes/dimensions are just a tad off from what leading manufacturers use, so you can't fit stronger parts from those cars easily (or at all). - The electronics are of poor quality, - The electronics are good, but not strong enough for the scale/size of car (so you'll burn your ESC the first time you hit some serious off-road work for example). In all too many cases you hear people afterwards that the maintenance cost so much, they might just as well have bought a more expensive set so it would've held out. I know the story doesn't apply to all of such cars, but beware that the fun may not last if you spend more time fixing the car than driving it. The bigger names of old have a reputation built up that they are not willing to risk with models that don't meet the demands of the customer. There's plenty to choose from, and if it'll be a runner anyway it might be worth tracking down a second hand example that's been run only a couple of times before the owner decided the hobby is not for him/her... Or maybe even a new model where the packaging was damaged in shipment - it can often save you a third off the usual retail price.
  7. It's really easy to do custom projects with a TLT-1. It's fun, and admittedly you're better off throwing out the original gearbox: It's Centre of Gravity (CoG) is way too high. This is what I made: It's pretty simple really: These are the mods I did: - I replaced the standard gearbox for a Traxxas 1/16 unit - it lowers the CoG, it's cheap and more durable than the Tamiya unit, it has a slipper clutch in it (even if it's a basic one) and the option for a centre diff.. - I made a custom chassis with a longer wheelbase from G10 composite material. - I used adapters and Traxxas telescopic driveshafts for the drivetrain connection. - The 4-link system is lengthened with M3 threaded rod - it's not the most durable solution as they buckle in hard impacts, but that also reliefs the stresses on other parts. - I bought some extra TLT-1 parts - to be precise, the battery tray and the long chassis screws and posts. - I replaced the small TLT-1 tires with ones from the Wild Willy/Lunchbox/etc. for some extra ground clearance. - I bought an HPI Wheely King body to fit on the car. The result is a 1/12-ish scale Monster truck in which I can fit a 540 or a 380 motor - though I can tell you from experience, 380 brushless power is plenty The double battery cradle means I can fit a 'Shorty' LiPo pack in it. The car is seriously quick but at the same time it's still fun-sized - it fits in my backpack!
  8. I had a colleague who had two of these cars for his sons, he had the same problems, maybe even worse: He tried reinforced parts on the car (even aftermarket metal spur gears and stuff), but it either also broke down or it made something else wear down even quicker. it may be a cheap car to buy but the quality is so @(*! that I think you're better off switching it for a car that doesn't break every time the wheels roll...
  9. I'm not a NovaFox owner, but f it's not the gear mesh, the gears inside the diff or sand/stones in the gears, then I think you should check your bearings are still in good condition (including those of the motor). If it's also not that, the Superstock RZ is a brushed motor, they're sensitive to dirt and dust, so I think you might want to check the condition of your brushes and commutator.
  10. Can you show on an exploded view what area this part is located? Then it's a bit more clear if it's a component subject to high loads or not... Also, am I correct in thinking it is ABS plastic?
  11. The Nimrod parts are beautiful, but quite brittle, and nowadays, the company seems to have seized their activities. Anyway, I know a solution: 3D printed parts by ORB Racing: Overview of the parts: Example of a printed kickup plate: Example of a printed front bulkhead: The parts are designed to be more durable and make maintenance easier - just to name two examples: There are hexagonal slots for nyloc nuts in multiple components so you can ditch the press nuts and work with nuts that are easy to re-tighten or unbolt. Also, there is more material in places where the old parts were prone to breakage (like the shock tower mount on the front bulkhead). However, despite these improvements, the seperate components are fully compatible with the original car and are intended to retain the spirit of the car. There are some parts that do alter geometry, or allow you to run modern driveshafts and wheels, but these are listed as such. The parts are made from a nylon powder that's sintered (melted) together by a laser. The material is very resistant to impact, which makes it very tough and perfectly suited to make RC parts from. Currently, from the parts you see in the overview, ORB Racing has available: - D1+D2 Rear Suspension Blocks - D5 Front Bulkhead - H1+H2 C-Hubs - H1+H2 C-Hubs +3mm offset (widens the front end by 3mm on each side, which gives the car the original track width when running TRF201 front wheels) - H3+H4 Steering Arms You can contact ORB Racing by email: Orbracing@gmail.com The following parts are currently under development: - D3 Rear Shock Tower Mount (with fine tuning options for roll centre) - E4 Kickup Plate - B1 Rear Suspension Arms - B2 Front Suspension Arms - K1+K4 Battery Tray - C1 Rear Uprights for TRF201 Driveshafts (to run modern rear wheels) - Carbon Fibre Front Shock Tower for TRF (74mm) shocks - Carbon Fibre Rear Shock Tower for TRF (91mm) shocks
  12. Sorry for the late reply! But to answer your question, testing has gone great! I have built and run a third prototype, and with this I have recently won a championship! What's even better, I've won the championship from TLR team driver Wesley van Helmond - he was the Junior European Champion in 2013, so when that happens, you know you're going quick! I'm currently working towards making a conversion kit for the DEX210, so other drivers can enjoy this kit too! More information is available on https://www.facebook.com/orbracing
  13. I have a spare battery tray: It has a lot scuffs and marks from use, but it is a complete and standard piece (K4 base+2x K1 posts), and mechanically intact (no cracks, not even at the screw posts, like I've seen on many other units I've seen). If you're interested, drop me a PM.
  14. Hehe ok. Well, you were not the only one interested in the bumper, so I modelled it anyway Here it is: The picture might speak for itself, but I'll explain it anyway: - The part has a better fit with the leading edge of the chassis, which will add to the durability and is one less spot where dirt can collect. - The 1.5mm aluminium shims under the steering posts are no longer needed, as they are integrated into the plate itself - it's much easier when working on the car, not to mention you don't have to source the shims if they're missing on your project Dyna! - The plate features slots for nyloc hex nuts, again making it easier when you're working on the car. - The front bumper has been made slightly smaller to make some weight savings, and features two ribs to reinforce it. Of course these features are added without making modifications. The test part has been ordered tonight and soon its fit and durability will be tested To prevent sending the topic too far off course, if anyone wants more info on these parts, send me a PM.
  15. Sorry for the late reply, but to answer your question: If you're interested to become the first customer, sure thing! The thing is, I need a customer to justify the time investment to model the parts. Perhaps more importantly (in case of projects where I don't own the car the parts belong to), the first customer is crucial for me to supply feedback about the fit and performance of the part. Anyway, if you're interested in a bumper or motor guard, just send me an email (Orbracing@gmail.com)
  16. Just a small update: I just saw a sale on oOple of Tamiya 12mm clamp hexes for the TRF503 (it should also work with your TRF201) - the part number is #9804801
  17. If you're looking to use parts that you can bolt on straight away, search through the Tamiya sub-forum on oOple - I recall some TRF503 users are using 12mm hexes on their cars - if it works on those cars it will work on the TRF201, too. As a home-brewn solution, I Wild Willy (wide) hexes that I had cut down in width slightly (and I recall the hole drilled up to 5mm) - I only used them occasionally (as my most commonly used tires were on pin-type wheels), but they still lasted me 2 years. One of them stripped when a nyloc wheel nut loosened, if that hadn't happened, it would still be happily running these hexes today
  18. Max: You've got a PM - adding anti-squat should be pretty easy
  19. @Max: The printed parts fix just about everything that is weak on the Dyna Storm. The alu chassis is a one-off for now, but I may look into options for a 3D printed kickup plate in the future (or an entire chassis). @Thommo: You've received a reply
  20. I know the Dyna Storm is getting pretty rare, but they don't have to make it again: Apart from the gearbox all the parts can be either cut from CF plate, made with 3D printing or sourced from other cars to keep them running (or make them run better) For example, I have made improved parts to replace the weak Dyna Storm and Astute parts: More pictures of the aluminium kickup chassis: http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122971&id=22450 Also, you might notice some 3D printed pieces on there: Front Uprights Steering Rack Front Suspension Block Rear Suspension Blocks Rear Uprights (Dyna Storm Only) All parts have the original geometry, but use more material in critical areas and are made for M3 threaded screws instead of self-tapping ones. They are 3D printed from a Nylon material (in white or black). I can tell from my own experience and those of others that the parts are much stronger than the originals - in racing conditions and some with brushless systems! I also have all the D-parts of the Astute, upgrade parts for some modern race cars and the collection is expanding If you would like any more information on the parts, just send me a PM.
  21. I know one supplier, but they're hideously expensive... Maxamps sells these 6750mAh 90C LiFe packs: http://www.maxamps.com/Life-6750-66-Pack.htm And it doesn't even have a hard case around it Also, with the TBLE-01 I know for fact that you should keep it at 2S (also for LiFe) - with the TBLE-02 I'm not sure, but it should state in the manual up to what voltage it can go. Stick with that and your ESC should stay happy (using more would probably void the warranty, too)
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