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Origineelreclamebord

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Posts posted by Origineelreclamebord


  1. @Max: The printed parts fix just about everything that is weak on the Dyna Storm. The alu chassis is a one-off for now, but I may look into options for a 3D printed kickup plate in the future (or an entire chassis).

    @Thommo: You've received a reply :)

    • Like 2

  2. I know the Dyna Storm is getting pretty rare, but they don't have to make it again: Apart from the gearbox all the parts can be either cut from CF plate, made with 3D printing or sourced from other cars to keep them running (or make them run better) :)

    For example, I have made improved parts to replace the weak Dyna Storm and Astute parts:

    IMGP9734.jpg

    More pictures of the aluminium kickup chassis: http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122971&id=22450

    Also, you might notice some 3D printed pieces on there:

    Front Uprights

    DynaStormH1H2.jpg

    Steering Rack

    DynaStormH3H4.jpg

    Front Suspension Block

    DynaStormD5.jpg

    Rear Suspension Blocks

    DynaStormD1D2.jpg

    Rear Uprights (Dyna Storm Only)

    DynaStormC1C2TRF-Type.jpg

    All parts have the original geometry, but use more material in critical areas and are made for M3 threaded screws instead of self-tapping ones. They are 3D printed from a Nylon material (in white or black). I can tell from my own experience and those of others that the parts are much stronger than the originals - in racing conditions and some with brushless systems! I also have all the D-parts of the Astute, upgrade parts for some modern race cars and the collection is expanding :)

    If you would like any more information on the parts, just send me a PM.

    • Like 1

  3. I know one supplier, but they're hideously expensive... Maxamps sells these 6750mAh 90C LiFe packs:

    http://www.maxamps.com/Life-6750-66-Pack.htm

    And it doesn't even have a hard case around it :lol:

    Also, with the TBLE-01 I know for fact that you should keep it at 2S (also for LiFe) - with the TBLE-02 I'm not sure, but it should state in the manual up to what voltage it can go. Stick with that and your ESC should stay happy (using more would probably void the warranty, too)


  4. I think it's about time someone mentioned the TRF211X again. Vintage prototypes are real works of art because in those days it took a lot more investment to manufacture new three-dimensional parts than it does now. Things like a plastic clutch housing and a tree of revised suspension blocks suggests that Tamiya was pretty serious about it and/or had too much pride to nick parts off cars from other brands - which is the usual mode of business nowadays :lol:

    • Like 1

  5. Look at it like this: A car like the Associated RC10B4 costs 25 euros to make (as a complete kit, excluding shipping). That car is produced in vast numbers like a TT01. A car like the B4 ends up in our hands for 180-250 euros depending on where you buy it (assuming you bought it in the day it was still up to date/in production).

    All parties want a big profit margin as with this hobby there's a relatively big risk you'll get stuck with old stock - count taxes and customs on top of that, and there you are: The price multiplies, 8 to 10 times.

    So you're assuming they can sell a car like that for under 70USD without anything questionable about how he got and ships the items, or that he even has them in the first place? :lol: Things don't work that way.

    Go back to eBay, flea markets or hobby stores, and find the model that's being overlooked. It takes time to find what you really want, but they are more surprising and can offer and even better deals... and don't forget, then you get to tell your amazing story on TC, too! B)


  6. I only see the topic just now and I see you mentioned my 3D printed suspension blocks you saw at Shapeways :) I've sold several sets and one broken part came back from an early version I made - I recall it was result from various knocks and cartwheeling crashes.

    The fact it's 3D printed raises some doubts with people. I'll admit the nylon material I have the parts printed from doesn't have the same tensile strength as aluminium, but the flexibility of the plastic allows it to handle a lot of knocks, and I dare to say it can handle about as much abuse in practice as the fiber reinforced plastics in many modern cars thanks to the flexibility. A concrete example is the FWD Buggy I made (

    , Photos/Topic): It has all custom parts made from carbon platework and 3D printed blocks - some essential parts like the the suspension arms and steering rack are 3D printed. Funnily enough I broke only two arms in half a year of racing it: One happened when I made a frontal collision with a concrete tile coming off a jump, the other was a design flaw where I put way too little material around the front upright area of the arm.

    Coming back to the Dyna Storm, I think the main durability issues are caused by the loosening fixtures and these days also material aging. The design I made adresses that and I tried to reinforce the construction. I can't guarantee it won't break, but I can guarantee it will hold up better than the original and require less attention on the tightness of the fixtures. I've also got front uprights, steering arms and the front suspension block printed: I used all these parts in two vintage races and everything held up perfectly.

    If you have any questions on the parts feel free to ask away :) It would be awesome if I can contribute to keeping your Dyna up and running!

    Edit: Here is the development thread of the 3D printed Dyna parts (Link)


  7. I've got a car here that's looking for a new home. It's a TB-01 chassis with:
    - LA Arm Suspension Conversion (quite hard to find).
    - Bearings in LA Arm hubs.
    - LA Arm Universal Shafts on all corners.
    - Low Friction dampers in the colours of the Tamiya Flag :)
    - One-Way Differential included (so you can switch between front diff and front one-way).

    The car is in very good condition - in fact, the shocks, LA Arm suspension and One-Way Diff have seen less than 5 batteries of run time. The drivetrain is in very good condition and the chassis though quite scratched is completely fine :) Foams, chassis cover and driver figure included and in good condition for running.

    I've had a quick scan through the chassis and drivetrain and found that after two years of shelf life apparently some screws and one bearing that have a bit of surface rust on them. It's cosmetic, it all works smooth.

    The body, wheels and tires are not much special... tires are not glued and have a good tread left on them - the body has some scratches and cracks so you shouldn't be afraid to run the !(*'@ out of the body :P

    Then there are the spares. Besides that one-way diff, there is nearly a complete TB-01 included, all parts from a new-built TB-01 (so it was assembled but it's all unscratched and unused). It includes so much that you're only missing two diffs (or one if you count the one-way diff in), a couple of bearings, the driveshafts and some screws. All the plastic parts and the adjustable links are there, and the manual (and box) of the TB01 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VI are included.

    For the lot I'm looking for 110GBP ex. shipping - I'll also listen to offers :)

    Pictures:

    IMGP6975.jpg

    IMGP6960.jpg

    IMGP6962.jpg

    IMGP6973.jpg

    IMGP6978.jpg

    IMGP6979.jpg

    IMGP6980.jpg

    IMGP6981.jpg

    IMGP6982.jpg

    IMGP6983.jpg


  8. KalEl, many of the DN-01's plastics are a different material, so different rigidity (=handling) and strength (=durability). Even when upgrading to BB shocks and a LWB conversion, it's worth taking the TRF201: You can sell the SB shocks again or keep them as an alternative set.

    As far as my knowledge goes, SB shocks in general are easier to set up, they should make the car more active (less mass on the 4 extremities of the car, thus lower inertia which is handy on corners and sections where you need to change direction quickly) and on tracks with little bumps and low jumps, I doubt the BBs are the way to go.

    The BBs however (when set up well) should prove far superior on bumpy tracks, even more so when they are low-bite - and on tracks with very demanding jumps/jump sections - there, the BBs may prove more forgiving, which suits any driver :)


  9. The current affordable printers don't offer that good quality and you're stuck with that technology and it's limitations in material choice. However, there are printing services that offer a wide variety of materials, and at an attractive price too.

    The modelling of 3D parts has become free in the basics, and even for a few hundred euros you can buy quite a professional package. Don't forget the developments in 3D scanning either: An Xbox Kinect makes a surprisingly good 3D scanner without any mods to the hardware itself!

    So I see it more likely that you'll have an affordable 3D scanner at home, some basic software to edit the parts in the crucial spots and then to have it 3D printed at a company in the appropriate material :) This could be a set of windows for your truck made from a clear resin (with for example PolyJet and SLA printing) or structural components like a suspension arm for the 959/Celica 1/12 chassis (for example SLS printing).

    And that's on a personal level... I think in the future, some companies may consider switching to printing parts instead of machining or moulding, or using a printed part and finishing it with machining to make the tolerances accurate where needed. It can be very interesting for low volume production and special editions without having the price go through the roof (or doing that and reaping extremely high profits from those special editions) :P

    In the model train business it seems to start already, on some printing websites where people can put their models up for sale (Shapeways.com), I've seen small stuff like suitcases, bags and sometimes even stuff up to complete carts being offered for printing. Also, more and more RC prototypes are printed nowadays - probably to test fit.


  10. I think a better question is to look at the DN-01 at $145 versus the DT-02 Sand Viper at $112 from the same vendor. The DN-01 is a superior chassis with its dual bellcrank steering, turnbuckles, option for either metric or imperial front bearings/wheels, shock angle adjustments, machine screws (instead of self-tapping screws), ball differential, 48p spur, and adjustable motor mount.

    If you live in the USA and want a Tamiya 2WD buggy, the TRF201 at tamiyausa.com for $183 is a real value considering the design, materials, and included hopups. If you can't get the TRF201 at that price, then the DN-01 at $145 certainly looks attractive because it's light years ahead of the DT-02.

    Very true: The DN-01 might lack many of the tuning parts, but it's still miles better than the DT02 even if you only consider the adjustability out of the box, full bearings (which I believe a DT02 doesn't have) and the gearbox that has a ball diff, slipper and offers near endless gearing options.That said, if you'd even consider buying better shocks or universals later on (even cheap aftermarket stuff) the TRF is a more attractive deal.

    For any of those out there interested in an even better 2WD deal: Wait until the IFMAR World Championships have been driven (late September) - around that time you should see some New releases, Worlds' editions, Updates etc... Which means new kits of 'outdated' versions can be picked up at very attractive prices :P And to be honest, I don't think Tamiya will sell many +8mm conversions unless they put it in one kit and discontinue the original chassis tub... That means the TRF201 kit as we now it now could drop to or below 180USD everywhere.


  11. The offroad section is promising but imo not interesting to pay money for as long as they keep it at 4WD SC and +/- 3 tracks (that are all dirt). I found it to be a fun and useful training tool to keep your skills from going into decline when you can't go to a track for 3+ weeks, but it can't come close to the real thing in terms of experience for me :) After all you can have just as much fun at the trackside :P


  12. So you can take off and land first of all...

    ...And they might not want to admit it, but they think driving is actually more fun. Plus (if it were 1:1) imagine the possibilities to overtake other vehicles, fly over roadblocks and prevent collisions :lol:

    It's a cool project, thanks for sharing the link!


  13. You can bet on it that the chassis has had a few knocks in the past. It can be pretty much invisible to the naked eye that the plastic has seen it's best days - I see it when racing all the time. You crash a hundred times and in some crashes you expect parts to flying all over the place, but it's surprisingly still intact... and then on that one time you land a jump awkward, but still easily tolerable for the car, something breaks down.

    Don't be too let down by it. Get replacement chassis halves and get going again! :D If it wasn't broken at the transmission housing I would've said you could try some epoxy and mounting metal plates on the sides of it... But your gears you want to have running smoothly and in a properly closed box ;)


  14. Yup, very true... It makes it feel quite bare for a conversion imo.

    I'm expecting the chassis to be stiff enough (in a video they showed the underside of the chassis from a distance: the edges of the chassis were bent up like on the TLR 22 it seems) - If so, then it can't hurt the chassis rigidity to model and 3D print some well-fitting sidepods yourself. Of course, it shouldn't be like this that you'd have to do it yourself... on the other hand it stimulates the DIY mind :lol:


  15. Imo it's an improvement over the 22-style CAD image we saw earlier - so, mainly aesthetic. It still clearly looks like a conversion because the nose piece and rear shock tower base are a bit of a misfit to the rest (which might also make a bit of an ill dirt seal), but hey: It is LWB! This should really help performance, everyone I heard about LWB chassis' on other cars state the +...mm makes their car more stable, predictable and forgiving! :)

    I'm looking forward to seeing the pricing of this... :P


  16. Well, as the +11 rear motor chassis is called the 'XR' conversion, you can bet on it that the mid-motor is indeed also 'just' a conversion. I think Tamiya's sales of the TRF201 (and DN-01) are too low to justify replacing the moulds (clue to this is that they are using an aluminium chassis for the rear motor conversion with machined plastic sidepods). That said, I wouldn't be too surprised to see them delivering a 'TRF201 with conversion package' much like the 'upgrade package' TRF201s... :)

    All that is speculation though, I'm really curious to see what they come up with!


  17. Rumours are spreading Tamiya will release a mid-motor conversion too and present it at the Shizuoka Hobby Show:

    http://kentech.blogs.se/2013/05/08/tamiya-trf201-mid-motor-conversion-15885912/

    I really hope these rumours are true and that while they're at it, they've given the chassis a +8mm-ish wheelbase. I think you expect the conversion is expensive like the rear motor one, but could be worth it as +..mm chassis' were already available for it in rear motor.


  18. There are plenty of developments in 3D printing, but in the case of getting ever stronger materials, they are often still expensive. For me, I've switched to a different printing method and material (SLS printed Nylon instead of FDM printed PLA). The nylon is somewhat stronger and the printing direction has a lesser influence on part strength (3D printed parts often have different strength values in the X, Y and particular Z direction (Z=between layers/height of the part). Also, there is the option to print glass and carbon reinforced nylon parts. The nylon is affordable in general, the composites are expensive when done at a company... luckily I've found a sponsor who has access to such a printer and these materials :)

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