Origineelreclamebord
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Posts posted by Origineelreclamebord
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I don't know for sure about the TL01LA, but the LA Arms set for the TB01 doesn't change the width of the car by more than 5mm in total (I can still fit standard 190mm touring bodies but the arches do appear a bit more filled). The TB01 LA Arms main point is to move the outside hinging points further to the outside (into the wheel) - this has an advantage that on the extremes of the suspension travel, the suspension doesn't get a lot narrower, which would make the car more stable in corners. Thhis narrowing effect is something that does happen with the short arms on the regular TB01, and also the TL01.
I hopes this helps a bit, and soon someone will come along and can confirm what the LA Arms set does for the TL01
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The 1/16 TRX Gearbox does fit in between the existing distance between the plates and mounting points of the 4-link suspension. However, I think the standard plates would require quite a lot of work to make the gearbox fit (cutting holes to clear some portions of the gearbox, and extra holes to fit the gearbox... with custom blocks).
However, making custom plates is not hard and the prices are not astronomic
The platework for the custom chassis cost me 44GBP (made from 2mm thick 'G10' plate), the blocks to mount the gearbox 10GBP to have them machined by a friend (though 3D printed in Nylon is easier and easily strong enough - and may prove to be cheaper too). With body, wheels and everything the conversion I think set me back about 100GBP (wheels, tires, chassis, gearbox, body... the lot excluding electronics really) - not bad for a custom chassis I think. -
Great picture. Well I've gone for it and will take my chances with the duty etc. I like the idea of making my own chassis plates out carbon:-)
You mentioned that you have changed the gearbox, what did you fit instead and does it solve the spur issue I keep hearing about?
I've opted for a 1/16 Traxxas gearbox - it took some bodging to get existing driveshafts to fit/work (I'm considering 3D printing my own shafts soon for a better fit), but this gearbox is the most compact one out there that carries a slipper and has the option of a center diff - with great durability, too. Last but not least, you can fit a 540 or 380 motor on there. I opted for a 380 (brushless) motor as I didn't find the massive torque of the 540s to work well for my chassis - even the tiny 380 motor is a handful if you're too heavy on the throttle!
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The main problems with a standard TLT are:
- High CoG.
- Not many batteries fit (I can recommend trying a 1/16 Traxxas battery - they are tiny but available even in decent capacity LiPos).
- Gearbox is not sealed.
However, there are a few pros as well:
- It can be very cheap (I've bought a NIB TLT-1 Rockbuster kit for 80-ish euros a few years back)
- It's VERY easily customizable:
http://www.tamiyaclu...14412&sid=22450
That is my custom TLT-1 based truck. Different chassis plates (same tubes and electronics 'bays' in between), different gearbox, stretched wheelbase, Wild Willy tires and wheels and an HPI body... And you've got yourself a 1/12 truck. And the same principle applies if you want to keep it small: It's just very easy to design a set of plates, have them cut (or alternatively drill and cut them yourself) and tweak the car
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Well, you could get an Egress or Avante body get some buggy shock towers (or hack the existing ones), get some buggy wheels+tires and if necessary get shocks of a fitting length. From what I heard the chassis is just the LWB chassis as found on the Egress and Avante 2001.
However, do keep in mind that adding all that up the car will easily pass the price tag of 300USD. Considering a 'normal' re-re Avante costs 385-450USD on eBay... I'm not so sure I would go for it.-
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He may not be aware his email is not working. Origineelreclamebord has bought a lot of things from them.
I have bought loads of things from them - but practically all my orders went through another member who (back then) lived 'close' to Nimrod Racing (at least close enough to be the guy who tested all the Nimrod parts for the Dyna Storm) - in other words, I have zero experience with ordering straight from their website, I do know that communication with Nimrod was always difficult with Nimrod (which is why I didn't order straight from the website).
I could contact the TC member and ask if he might be able to be of help in establishing contact with Nimrod Racing? (Please do tell me if you're interested in that because I design RC parts myself these days for several cars).
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the Subaru or the short course type one? the Subaru is handsome , they did a splendid job with that kit, body and wheels work very well together , the short course type pick up I am not so keen on , didn't want to say that though as I have moaned and winged enough
You kinda wrote down what I would've
Except that I am going to moan some more... I see there are no wheel nuts included on the Agrios kit? Probably as you will not be needing those wheels anyway?
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TT02... LIKE!
Why? Well, consider this: Any replacement for the TT01 (=same target group of users) can't cost a lot more... thus you can't increase the spec that much. This explains why we see plastic friction shocks, a plastic drivetrain and if I were to make a guess, no bearings.
However, look beyond that: The car finally accepts square batteries (LiPo) as stock, though all-plastic they have made it a way more interesting piece to look at, I see a receiver box and high and low mounting points for the shocks on the suspension arms (so the TT02 will be easy to convert from tourer to rally car without mods or extra parts) yet that front shock tower might actually be low enough to accept the low GT bodies that Tamiya released for their IFS cars. I think Tamiya did a good job at making it as universal as possible.
And, though on first glance a bad thing, the plastic parts leave a lot of room for aftermarket manufacturers and personalizing. Based on what I've seen on TC I think most of you wouldn't want to miss that
And for many beginning RC enthusiasts, the path of customizing that car from the store into their car really gets them into the hobby.As for the Golf Mk.1, I really like it! A much better effort than a few other 'recent' m-chassis releases (Renault 5, 280ZX) - And though I've never been into trucks and trailers, that new Actros has a 'wow' factor about it, it shows how good Tamiya can be
As for the TXT2/Agrios... If they indeed re-used the TXT-1 axles and gearbox I think it's a bit of a pity... and who needs 2 motors these days? (a 550 brushless would be more than enough) - And though I like what they did with the tube frame, I don't understand at all why they chose for this style of tires, wheels and body... -
Skip the DB02R, Go to DB03 and make it a belt drive again
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What super gripper said, I heard very bad stuff about this car! The spec out of the box is not impressive especially for it's price: it has plastic center outdrives for example - even with a silver can you could do with something more beefy! I heard people like Lee Martin have never heard of the car until is was released.
This would all be acceptable if it turned out to be a great car... but I heard otherwise. I spoke Jimmy from oOple at the EOS in Langenfeld. He told me that the first time out (stock) the car immediately broke down (I recall it was 'something' with those outdrives). He upgraded it with every available hopup for the DB02 since and wanted to do a race with it again to finish his report... He said he did a clean run without crashes (I'm assuming that is without the occasional small roll or flip, but it does give an idea of what the run was like). Yet, on the last jump of the heat, that he landed like any other, the whole rear suspension just popped off because the gear casing decided to give up on life!
So his fully hopped up DB02 lasted... a single heat. Even a bad parts sprue should be able to take more than that, way more! Really, the idea of a shaft drive vehicle with a motor mounted like a belt drive chassis, I like it, it could well have (part of) the benefits of a belt driven car with the ease of maintainance of a shaft drive car (anything you could wish for for club level racing on paper), but with such stains on it's resume already (Jimmy Wright's words are the first positive ones I hear about the car), this is not a winner in my book!
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This very much depends on club, level and kind of car I suppose. What I've found so far is that some people care more about their car than others, but in general they respect these differences on the track (ie. no intentional pushing and crashing into each other). Also, I found that the higher up you go in level, the less careless people will (usually) be with their cars.
Of course, there's the occasional joking around, and the crowd's cool sounding response when a car seems to warp physics in mid-air with a spectacular landing and an explosion at the end of the straight*
Anyway, to be a bit more serious, this is how I'd desribe my experience of the off-road racing crowd so far (in the Dutch-Belgian scene I'm driving in):
1. To be as quick as possible (without driving others off the track).
2. Try to not break your car, but don't be afraid for occasional breakages that might happen in your pursuit for speed (fearing you might break something is like begging to get your car damaged, and weeping over a part that's split in two doesn't magicly glue it back together).
3. HAVE FUN! (Yes it's a competitive environment, but at the end of the day you started this hobby for fun - so keep it fun)!
4. Help out others (You're not alone and there is no need to cover up what you're doing or to share nothing with others - the racing is a hobby you experience as a group, so share your knowledge - and occasionally, parts and tools as well).
As for buggies vs. short course... Short course in general seems a bit more careless, but to be honest I've seen the SC's handle a lot more because they have bumpers on all sides except the underside of the car (the body seems super efficient at absorbing roof impacts and preventing shock tower breakage) - So if you don't like the increased contact that comes with the SCs, definetely go buggy... and go to the right club for it
*Before you think we Dutchmen are only into seeing another man's grief, we do feel for their loss afterwards!
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There are some official letters/documents on this on oOple - one stating that Ansmann would stop their racing cars - a few weeks later a new letter was posted, stating that the distribution would be continued by Dickie-Tamiya... My expectations are low on that one considering how bad spared availability is for Tamiyas out here in the Netherlands (and elsewhere in Europe as well).
Fear not though, the brand 'Team C' has exactly the same cars and parts, it's just a different name for marketing purposes (I believe it was intended for the Asian market, whereas Ansmann was meant to cover the European market).
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I can really recommend getting one, they're awesome cars: they handle so precise and you can fine tune it very well. The high spec out of the box makes a very rewarding car, to drive ánd to work on.
The only reliability issue with the car is the standard (white) gears - the idler gear of that tends to break (apparently, I've only seen it on a second hand 201 that I bought, never experienced it myself with the white gear set I replaced it with). The hopup black gear set will hold up just fine.
@GregM: I haven't rebuilt my last ball diff (with ceramic diff balls) for a full racing season - it's not really smooth anymore (very grainy but consistent throughout it's full rotation) and worked just fine before I swapped it for a gear diff (I modified the casing to accept a Kyosho Ultima SC Gear Diff).
The only parts I can recommend getting are a brass under servo weight from RudeBits (I think it handles better with some more weight up front, but it may not be too noticable when bashing), some tape to seal the gear cover off a bit better (it tends to not fit too well at the front/top of the spur). Also, make sure you get a set of decent tires for the surface you run on (as with any car of course)
If you do go racing, I'd recommend getting the Buggy spring sets from Associated (these will offer you adjustability for soft surfaces like dirt up to high bite surfaces like carpet - for a very good price). As for spares, a set of Front Arms (F-Parts), the nose/upper chassis (L10 Part) and the Front Shock Tower (M2 Part) are the main parts I've broken, but only with either extremely hard hits (L10 and M2) or continuous beating and crashes in the long run (Front Arms).
PS: I have broken other parts as well, but they didn't re-occur so far and were very specific to the type of incident (like last weekend, when in an indoor race my car crashed straight into the wall at 45+km/h and broke the chassis tub)
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There are a few things I want to achieve:
- Driving my first B-Final in the Belgian-Dutch 1/10 2WD Buggy Championship.
- Improving my FF Buggy Prototype.
Of course there are more things, but the focus will be on racing and getting to the results I just missed out on achieving last year (like that elusive B-Final)!
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I have no experience with PS on hard plastic shells, but I do on hard plastics. As long as the surface is rough it seems to stick well: I've tried it on 3d printed nylon, which has a grainy surface by itself - I scratched it with a knife and couldn't get it off, you could only see the shine/surface finish change (the scratched surface surprisingly became more shiny).
The other way around, TS/non-lexan paint on a lexan shell however is probably more of a problem. The PS paints are made to flex with the lexan, so they just stick and flex less on a hard shell. The other paints however can't handle flexing so much and on lexan will crack and flake off.
Then still, if I'd have the choice I'd take the right paint for the right shell/material
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The sad part is they could just rearrange the batt position and add the coat hanger prop from the TA01 and make it a better car. I really have no idea why anyone still makes the batt down one side, motor down the other configuration any more. Batteries have never been heavy enough to counter balance the motor and electronics - and with the advent of the even lighter LiPo tech, it makes even less sense.
Have you taken into account that electronics can be offset? A driveshaft or belt doesn't need to be in the centerline of the car. It's this approach that they use on competition tourers to make a decent weight balance from left to right, and it's no rocket science incorporating that into the design of even the most basic entry level car.
And though the TA01/02 are nice, sturdy cars, their design it outdated: They have more gears (=lower drivetrain efficiency), a floppy main driveshaft, higher centre of gravity, a tub not compatible for use with modern stick packs, etc - It must have been a very good car back in it's day, and still a decent daily driver, but it's uninteresting as a replacement chassis for Tamiya's RTR and entry-level tourer.
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So, who won ????
+1, we are curious
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If a TT02 comes out, it will probably remain the entry-level chassis. In other words: I don't expect to see reinforced plastics and the least amount of metal parts possible.
From a perspective of the RC enthousiast it's indeed not much good. However, looking at statistics many of these cars would probably end up never being upgraded, and a bit lot also not being used after a couple of runs anymore. So from the perspective of price, environmental impact (people will chuck one away as is, so the less different materials - and in particular metals - the better) and usability for average target group, it is very understandeable.
I know, Tamiya's prices are not that cheap compared to RTRs from other brands, but I think that's down to mould and material quality and branding reasons. IF what I said about Tamiya's considerations for environmental impact and target group is true, then I don't expect to see ball bearings. Steel ball bearings don't fit in a view biased to environmental considerations, plastic ball bearings are probably too expensive to use in a car that needs to be so cheap. A very similar view would apply to shocks. I think we are not considered to be the average user for a entry-level car... and for that they have the hop-ups or higher spec cars!
PS: This does NOT mean I'm expecting the TT02 to be a bummer. Unless they move it away from being an entry-level car the spec might not be way up there, but it should be interesting to see how good a car they can make of it!
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Dyna Storm - as long as you keep it on soft/loose dirt. For sheer performance the TRF201 is a more rewarding car to drive
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http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=117243
They are in, and fitted! The parts fit quite well - I needed to do some small mods here and there with the Dremel on the new covers - but all in all I'm quite content with the seal that it seems to give - and it doesn't look too shabby imo
My only concern is that the rear gear diff might shoot stones into the cover because it's rotating parts aren't fully protected on top. Only one way to find out: I'll soon test it.Two more things to do before I test it... 1. Get a few days of dry weather, and 2. Get this paintscheme on the shell of my 417:
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Pictures of it fitted on the car soon to follow
The Dyna Storm will attend a vintage race upcoming weekend, the perfect opportunity to test all these parts and see whether they are as strong as I think!-
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Lol, ok
I never noticed it before when I was rebuilding the Dyna diff, that's why I found it a bit strange. Anyway, I rebuilt the car now and I'll just test it then. I moved back to what should be the kit setup, what I remember from it the setup was very nice for soft dirt and bumpy surfaces - exactly what I'll be running on next weekend in a vintage race! Thanks for your advice/comment
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Hi everyone,
I'm in the process of rebuilding my Dyna Storm diff. I've just rebuilt it - exactly as per manual, but there is a slight problem. The diff doesn't feel very grainy, which of course is good, but throughout the rotation of the diff it becomes looser and tighter (in a smooth fashion, not notchy). It's only one spot in the rotation.
My first thought was 'the balls are deformed.' The balls have been in the diff for 3 or so years now, but I don't drive the car a lot, and the balls in the diff are tungsten carbide, so I'm not sure you'd be able to deform these like steel balls. The thrust bearing looks smooth, the disk springs don't look damaged, and though the pressure plates have grooves there was no sign of damage on them (and grooves appear pretty quickly in use).
Are there any suggestions what I could look at before trying loads of new parts?
Anyone used colours of Rit dye other than black ?
in General discussions
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That Black Avante looks ace
This got me thinking... My TRF201 has white wheels on there - at least, that's what they should be. When you boil (Proline) tires off to re-use the wheels, they tend to become beige. It looks absolutely awful!
There would be to ways of solving this... either making the wheels white again by removing the stains (with white dye or a remover), or I need to find two Fluor colours: Fluor Green and Fluor Orange:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=117553&id=22450
Any suggestions?