Origineelreclamebord
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Posts posted by Origineelreclamebord
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Interesting you've used a TRF415 as a rally car!
I'll definetely order a nice spur then - the rear diff is a gear diff, up front there is a spool. By the sound of it this cover should be a good start for the middle and rear end of the transmission then I'll (hopefully) be ordering this somewhere this week and I should have it within 2-3 weeks... I can't wait, even more so now I got in some nice bits today: Swing shaft protectors for the front (steel) outdrives (the rear already has them), body posts and some gold HPI 6-spoke rims that will the part with the Subaru body! I'm now just waiting for a clean set of Sorex tires and inserts and I'll do a couple more runs with this spur until I can really call it wrecked
Edit: I ordered the covers - they should come in before the 12th of December.
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I did have a problem... within the first 10 minutes of driving I got a grain of sand in the spur gear. I immediately stopped driving to take it out, but it still sounds awful and raw because the plastic is out of shape. I've driven another run, the same thing happened. As far as two (long) runs can tell the car didn't suffer from flying debris and stones. Still, I decided to focus on getting the body ready (ordered body mounts, cut out the body, etc) because I'm happy with the handling. By now I also found that RW Racing sells 48dp spur gears that fit the TRF201 - I'll run the old spur some more first but a 48dp one will definetely go in next.
When it's ready for more running I'll try it out without the chassis protector first - the spur cover has plenty of room so if sand particles do enter, they should have room to fly around and fly out again
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Hi everyone,
Recently I acquired a TRF417 for a nice price. I liked the handling, but... the transmission is just slightly more open than I'd like it to be for the place I'll be driving it at - especially the spur gear seems a bit vulnerable with it's tiny teeth.
I don't want to replace the car though, so I decided I'm doing a couple of mods. First, I will be switching from 64dp to 48dp spur gears. Beefier teeth, and matching with what I use on my buggies. More importantly though, I want a transmission cover/tunnel on the car. It doesn't need to seal off perfectly, it just needs to keep debry and the largest amount of sand out.
To achieve this seal, first I will get a chassis protector sheet and cover the holes in the bottom chassis plate. I'll also add some 3D printed covers/pieces around the transmission. It still will need a clean-ish surface (like I ran on), but it should give a basic level of protection. This is what I've got so far:
It's the cover for the spur gear: Two pieces that mount below the carbon top plate, one piece on top of it. The three covers should give a good seal towards the front where the only two gaps will be for the belt, at the rear side there is protection at the sides and a small gap on the top - I might want to cover the diff a bit further, but that requires endless measuring and modelling, so I'll try this first.
I'll also make covers for the front pulley and the back piece of the rear diff later on if these pieces prove to work for the spur. Any comments welcome
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I'm using Firefox on Windows 7 and Windows XP (I've also tried Chrome and Explorer) - it often has exactly these problems (in combination that I can't see the editing tools like font, size and the smilies). Every once in a while though (like now), it does work as intended. Removing cookies, history etc and updating the browser and it's plug-ins doesn't change anything to the situation.
I always keep myself logged in on the showroom part of the website. I haven't tried logging out there first like TA-Mark suggested, but if it does work I am usually still logged on on the website.
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There we go... The D5 Front Suspension Block I promised - long ago - to make! The main problem to overcome was that for at least two of the screw holes of this block I can't put a nut in there (like I would prefer to). I didn't know how the material would cope with holding a thread, so I needed to find that out first. Recently I experimented with it and the material seems to handle the fine thread of a metric screw very well!
Problem solved, and I finished the model today.The block is pretty beefy: The shock tower mounts have more material to them and like the rear suspension blocks, it doesn't need the copper bushings, making space for more material on the block without adding more around it. It also uses hex nuts instead of press nuts and I made an optional H7 part. It's just for trying out a small styling piece really, to hide balance weights that you can add on the front block perhaps?
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I would be very, actually, extremely happy, if Tamiya would stop the flood of re-re's - especially the loosely based ones like the Blackfoot III etc. I mean, vintage cars are fun, and I like it that Tamiya has brought us re-releases, but it seems they release those at the cost of (re)development and improvement of cars, and it seems to slow down the amount of new cars that they release.
If you look at Kyosho, they don't re-release, but I think they do manage to make their vintage fans happy. They however do this with cars that have modern materials and engineering (this doesn't have to mean double wishbone suspension, but material quality and a better understanding of durability thanks to CAD software), yet remind the user of more scale, classic vehicles. This started with the Ultima DB (which admittedly wasn't optimal even if it was a nice start). However, the new Kyosho Sand Master is pretty cool, and if you go up in scale, the upcoming Kyosho Scorpion XXL is a very nice effort to get the looks with the convenience of a modern car (oh, and it's HUGE! It's 1/7th scale, almost as big as an HPI Baja 5B).
I'm not saying Tamiya should take exactly the same approach, but it would be cool if for a re-release they would redevelop a car completely but (like Tamiya can do so well with TC bodyshells) replicate the looks of the original very well
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OCD, I am aware of the fact that they increase grip a lot, I'm not denying that.
By the sound of it you've been in my position as well. I've made my choice with cutting up this body - I don't need downforce levels that put so much pressure onto the tarmac that it starts to crack! I know, more downforce equals more wheel pressure, which equals to more grip - and as these cars don't have a lot of weight they do kind of need the downforce...
...But from my view, I doubt the car perform worse with this body than without a body, and without a body it was far better than the other tourers (all Tamiya) I've driven so far. You might wonder if the car will be even more fun with a jelly body on vs. a scale body... And I don't feel that way (right now) because the higher grip will equate to more fun in racing because your car is competitive - but like I said, I'm not driving on a track against other people. If you would compare it to 1:1, I don't see an F1 car being as much fun to drive as a WTCC or WRC vehicle. As you can't upload how the experiences between the two actually felt, I'll try it myself
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Well,. if we start communicating in imagery, it's on!
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Great seller - has some nice bits that no other EU based Tamiya seller has - only the postage is a pain for small orders as Seidel has a fixed price for postage no matter what size the order is.
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I'll put on a normal body for now - I'm assuming 2012 will be just another year in the history of mankind and a really bad movie... that means if I would like to switch to a racing body later on, I can pretty easily
The reason I'm choosing for a 'scale' shell is that this for me is the point where racing (in general) kind of lost it's roots... It's starting to happen in buggy racing now, where you see the most monstrous contraptions pop up just to get more (front) downforce - not all shells were great before but they did look better. Seriously, a small percentage of that downforce, give it away to have a better looking shell - because that last bit is not going to help you win when it really comes down to it (at least in offroad it doesn't).
I'm not saying I never ever would use a racing body, just that I'd like to try a scale body first and my prediction is that I'll stick to that. I think it would be going way too far in my situation to do all the TC racing preparations to a car that's 'just' to keep my driving skills up. I'm talking about things like extensive prepping to the driving surface, tire warmers, setup gizmo - and to a degree, compromising the looks of the car just to get more downforce (even if the car was initially built for all those circumstances) - after all I'm racing against myself only, so no regulations to maximize my car within, and there is no timer involved.
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Hehe, thanks for the advice
I drove it without a body because I wasn't going to invest in (or cut up and drill into) a body for a car of which I didn't know if it suited me. So now I know I can put a body on. Since I don't have a purpose built racing body but I do have other bodies - I know it's not the best choice performance-wise -
Hey guys, today I tested my car for the first time - FINALLY! What an odd drive, it's nothing like I remember from the last time I drove a tourer! This drives quite well with the setup that I bought it with (I only raised the ride height slightly for the first test to minimize potential problems with small stones): it's power delivery is very smooth (I guess it's the belts) - but not soft or tame by any means
Unlike I expected it is possible (and in fact pretty easy) to drive over the tires' limit, making it slide around. The car stays relatively predictable though, which is nice (it's not like you spin out or the car becomes completely uncontrollable).So all in all? Good fun, I will get a shell ready for this car
I will have to make some protection for the pulleys, spur and pinion that's better than a bit of tape and a few sheets of paper though It is what cut off my driving session (there is a sand particle in the spur because it started clicking).And one more thing: Mounting that battery with tape - that's not practical for bashing. I have a TRF(501?) mount bag here and I noticed there are holes in the carbon battery 'hooks' - the height matches nicely, so I'll be making a 'standard' battery mounting solution for it since that bit of CoG is not as crucial for me as it is for guys on the track.
Edit:
I have two potential bodies for this car: A Subaru '07 shell (NIP) or a '99 German Rally Champ Subaru shell (painted badly by previous owner so suitable for a runner shell - with some weathering the paintjob problems shouldn't be that visible).
The 07 I can make the right holes for the original body posts, for the German Rally one I could use the existing holes but I need to make some customizations to position a set of body posts correctly for the body - also, I will put some velcro on the front bumper so the front end doesn't flex too much and hits the ground all the time. What should I do?
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Good tips, hey there original, do you have a replacement front bulkhead (the part that the front arms and shock tower mount to) made up yet/
Nope - I haven't finished a model for it yet. But I take it you're asking about it because you're interested in one? (If so I'll put it up a bit in my priority list)
So far I do have:
- Rear suspension blocks.
- Front uprights/knuckles.
- Front steering arms/rack.
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@redzone, that's quite a lot of power you're putting into the Dyna! The car may wear a little quicker...
As for gear ratio, I'd start off with 23T-ish for the pinion. As for oil, the stock setup uses Soft (=#400) oil front and rear. It should be a good start. Perhaps a bit on the soft side depending how rough the terrain is where you run on, but it should work pretty well.@Kev - I had a Nimrod front block on my Dyna. I drove it head on into a kerb once at low speed (10 km/h-ish) and it held up. However, on a later occasion where it bumped into a kerb at about 30 degrees from parallel at 25km/h-ish and it broke: One of the shock tower mounts on the block had snapped clean off and the other was hanging on by a thread - this probably happened because the suspension bottomed out quite violently on impact. It might be that the block sustained damage in the first crash, but to break it in just two incidents (which aren't nearly as bad as I've seen in racing incidents) left me a bit disappointed.
I think the material may just be somewhat too brittle. You might not bump into such problems though when hitting softer objects (such as a clay track) as they dampen the blow (and more considerably than you might think at first, too). The Nimrod stuff is absolutely beautiful though, just for that they're worth getting!
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Even with no tracks nearby, the TRF201 would be an excellent car to drive! Compare it with a (RTR) Associated B4,1: Most of them aren't raced but bashed. It's well suited to that: Unlike high end touring cars (etc), high end buggies do have a construction made for loads of dirt, grit and abuse, as well as the strong materials and the optimized geometry for outstanding handling. Offroad cars are not and cannot be as refined or fragile as an F1 car - hence why many competition buggies make excellent bashers!
The TRF201 can handle a lot - My car has seen a full season of racing (as a rookie) - yes, I did break a few parts (front suspension arms, front shock tower, front top frame to which shock tower mounts, wings), but with full speed collisions against other cars, steel fences (not mesh, the rigid tubing type), highly unforgiving tracks, a driver that can't jump well and a 6.5T/5200kV power plant (to make the impacts more exciting?), any car would break! There's also the usual maintainance: After a full season my ball diff could do with a rebuild (but is still doing great, it's just feeling a little grainy) and I rebuilt the shocks towards the end of the season.
The car is still in tip top shape though. Yes, there are some scratches and bruises, but all things considered I think the TRF201 should be a better basher (handling/performance-wise and durability-wise) than any other buggy from Tamiya. The only reason not to want it is because of it's looks, lack of shiny goodies (out of the box) or the fact that it's not vintage. Since you dig it's looks though, I suggest you get that car dirty as soon as possible!
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A bit off-topic, but I'd just like to refer back to my previous post:
I wonder how long it'll take before they start releasing all these 'Wheely' bodied cars as low street ride versions to (A bit like Willy's Wheeler)...
So eh, that took... 5 days from my prediction to them actually anouncing a 'street' version of a 'wheely bodied' car!
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The material is nylon. It is 3D printed through Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), which is a method where layer by layer, powder is (locally) fused together by a laser. The parts are accurate, don't warp and the nylon means it's quite strong (so far I only heard of one set that broke, it was the very first set), but it is indeed porous and has a rough finish.
Because it's porous, sanding doesn't change the surface other than removing the 'steps' from printing layers, but that same property allows it very well to be dyed, and Tamiya PS-paint seems to adhere very well to it as well with a cleaned and dried surface
If you dry the paint very quickly like I did on another project of mine, you'll get a rougher texture on it (but lose the 'lines/layers' of the printing) - it looks a lot like grip tape:The steering arms are thicker, both the bottom and top mounts (bottom is +0.5mm, top is +1mm I recall) - I don't think the rib is actually necessary because I only cracked the mounts on the steering arms, but I'll find out soon enough. I've also been looking at alternative constructions for the steering mount, but there's not much space due to the inside mount of the camber link.
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Update time: I got the 3D printed parts today!
They fit first time around without any mods or shaving material off: I Just drilled out the holes to 3mm (and the ones for M3 threads to 2.5-2.6mm) and they were ready to fit. I really like the uprights, compared to the originals they are like tank parts
They're very beefy and the maximum steering angle seems the same as the original (as is the other geometry). The steering rack I had printed just because the originals I had were cracked at the mounts - It's slightly reinforced, but it's the main test to see whether the 3D printed Nylon can hold screw threads through regular use. So far so good.I'll test the parts asap - first a bit onroad, then probably a bit offroad and then somewhere this winter I'll have a vintage indoor race - in which I of course will use the Dyna Storm!
I'll keep you guys updated on the quality of the parts, though I think the front uprights are good enough and ready as is . -
@TA-Mark: It actually does bottom out at the rear on landings (when it lands a jump completely, so not like the doubles it didn't make) - and the front also bottoms out (as you could expect) - it's all in the setup on the FF though: the front follows, so the rear setup is not nearly as important (and set pretty soft considering the length of the arm/geometry on the rear). So the XV-01 may bottom out slightly more easily.
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I hear a lot of people questioning its (XV-01) ability to take jumps. In the true sense of rallying, it can take any rallye level jump with ease. If you are planning on jumping it as a buggy, well you can do 2 things... Add weight to the back to balance it out, or use a buggy to take such jumps... Because that is what they are designed for. Also DF03 is not such a great jumper, its front section is prone to breaking.
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With regards to the XV01T, I would agree that its probably not the ideal chassis for a truck.. But again some weight on back will allow it to jump well.
Anyone who has doubts that a car with a front weight bias can't be jumped well, here you go... My Front wheel driven buggy (with a weight bias far more to the front than the XV-01) in jumping action:
The trick - like with any car - is to hold your throttle where it is and adjust the car's pitch with the throttle once it's airborne. And to prove the car is adjustable in the air:
With a good amount of throttle I could get the car to point the nose up - it didn't take a lot of effort and was a repeatable job
So there you go, the XV-01 should jump just fine, just be confident and don't hold back your throttle (then it will indeed nose-dive).
@speedy_w_beans: I've never used the gyros, but I'm very happy these are not allowed in racing: Being able to control slides should be purely driver skill (not to mention indeed much more fun!)
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I wonder how long it'll take before they start releasing all these 'Wheely' bodied cars as low street ride versions to (A bit like Willy's Wheeler)...
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Very clearly VLB etc. chassis, not Willy: The WW2 has double wishbone (TL01 based) suspension that doesn't get positive camber like this. The other front bulkhead+bumper construction and block that suggests a diff in a live axle are clues that it's the VLB chassis
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I've only bought one tool specified for RC use: a Body Reamer. All the other tools I got from from the hardware store, (hex drivers, screw drivers, long nose pliers etc), I still use the box wrench from Tamiya for all the nuts - I have a vernier caliper for accurate measuring, a home-made camber+ride height gauge (of which I only really use the ride height function).
The only tool I'm missing is a decent turnbuckle wrench. I currently use the Tamiya one supplied with some car (I don't know which one). It's a thin strip of metal, and the problem is that it's very easy to actually miss the square part on the turnbuckle, so you need to aim very precisely every time. This is a tool I could make at school with a laser cutter.
The tools I bought... Most of them will last very long, the only thing that wore down 'quickly' was my 2.0mm hex driver. I've used it on pretty much every car I have for over a year. When the head wore down I simply Dremeled the worn piece off. Not too long after I did decide to buy a new one, it's not that expensive: at the price of 3.50 euros I can buy a bunch of them instead of an RC branded tool. In short, I still don't see myself buying tools from the likes of Hudy, TRF, Integy, etc.
It's just more affordable this way, though I understand the RC tools look good (and probably the A-brands are very high quality, too). -
That sounds like a lot of fun 94eg!
Unfortunately I don't have any friends (nearby) with RC cars, perhaps I should start looking for people in my city through communities so perhaps we can drive together.I drove on the parking lot today (with my Dyna Storm). The surface of the parking lot has some split/small stones on it, but not a lot I think. There are some twigs and stuff on there right now, but I think that'll only be the side I usually drive on (which is close to a few trees). I'll have to check. Like I mentioned earlier, there is another, larger parking lot nearby. From what I can see on Google Maps it's dusty and concrete, but I'll have a look there anyway. With such a big parking lot there should be a good spot/corner to run, right?
I'll definetely order a nice spur then - the rear diff is a gear diff, up front there is a spool. By the sound of it this cover should be a good start for the middle and rear end of the transmission then 
It's just more affordable this way, though I understand the RC tools look good (and probably the A-brands are very high quality, too).
Teenagers on Tamiyaclub?
in General discussions
Posted
Teenager, not anymore... but at the age of 21 I'm likely within the 25% of youngest users