driftking_v8

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Posts posted by driftking_v8


  1. also a large current draw will cause weak response from a servo if the BEC, Batter Eliminator Circuitry, does not provide enough amps

    2 simple ways to help fix this without spending much money

    drop a few pinion teeth

    run a reciever battery

    Other than that I'd suggest a less powerfull motor or better ESC

    thanks man awesome I now use a receiver battery and it works sow the

    servo had probably almost no power

    ty Marc


  2. Sup guys, i was looking at Tamiyausa.com and I found a special edition TL01RA chassis (Part# 49352) and I have few questions:

    1) What's the difference between that and TL01 other than the "Rally Arms?"

    2) If say I want to switch back n forth between drifting and Rallying, should I also change the rally arms into regular arms?

    4) And finally, which is a better platform for doing both? TT01 or TL01/RA

    Thanks guys!

    yo better take the tt-01 you can tune it up to your wishes :)


  3. Does anyone have a spare rubber switch cover for the mecahnism box lid of a Wild Willy, Audi Quattro etc

    \

    I have a blue one in my garage for 2 dollar you can have It where do you live..?

    ill send ya

    grtz Driftking


  4. Your ESC doesn't stand a chance with that motor, it can't handle anything more than a Sport Tuned.

    You'll need an unlimited ESC (and a good one at that) to make best use of an 8 turn motor, along with high quality race packs which can deliver the current required for that motor.

    he handles my 17 turns now so......

    I love the esc..


  5. Let's try this one more time, because I'm bored and I have the time:

    An HPI Sprint 2, straight out of the box with the included motor and ESC, probably goes around 25mph. With a little tuning (and by the way, "tuning" does NOT mean "bolting on a bunch of shiny junk"), you can probably add 5mph to that.

    And that's about the best you can realistically do with that, or any other inexpensive touring car.

    If you really want to go 60mph reliably with an electric RC car, you'll need several thousand dollars worth of equipment, and enough knowledge, skill, and wisdom to use the high-level stuff properly. You'll need to understand, at a bare minimum, chassis tuning, gearing, aerodynamics, and electronics well enough to not need to ask which specific stuff to buy. You'll need to know precisely how each change you make to the car affects its driving. And your driving skill will have to be superb. I mean, able to compete in major races. If you're not "the fast guy" at your local track, you're not a good enough driver to handle a car going that fast.

    You'll need a top-of-the-line radio, and know how to use every setting on it. You'll need extensive knowledge of battery tech, and the best batteries and chargers you can get. You'll need a programmable ESC, and knowledge of how to program it. You'll need to test different bodies for aerodynamic characteristics, and choose the one that's the lowest drag and the most stable, not the one you think looks the coolest. You'll need to understand motor technology well enough to know why certain winds/turns are used in certain circumstances, so you'll be able to choose the right motor to reach your goal, instead of just grabbing the "fastest" one on the shelf.

    Then you'll take the car to the biggest open space you can find, and test and test and test some more, trying different tires, gearing, spoiler angles, suspension settings, and all sorts of other variables, changing one thing at a time and taking pages and pages of notes so you know wat did what, and you can go back to an earlier setting if you mess up. And occasionally you'll wreck, because everyone does, and you'll have to repair the car or replace things that wear out, because the wear and tear on the components at those speeds is unbelievable. You'll go through tires like mad. You'll hit a slight dip in the pavement you didn't see and the car will flip over and your heart will skip as you watch parts go flying off it. And the next day, after you've repaired it, you'll be back out there again, chasing after your goal.

    And when you finally see that speed on the radar gun, you'll take a photo of the reading, and you'll video the run and post it here or somewhere else, and you'll have a real sense of accomplishment.

    If that's what you want to do, then that's awesome. I'd do it if I had time and money. But that's what it is going to take.

    I don't think so I've got a motor for 27 dollar and a new shaft gear for 10 dollar = 37 dollar ( much ????) I't drives great


  6. It's a long while since i posted here but I have a new motor !!!\

    A 17 turn motor so i thought I need a new ESC but no ,the standard could handle the speed

    I only need a new shaft gear thing because It sprins .

    maybe I need more hop ups ??

    plz reply \

    TY Driftking


  7. ....and don't forget to dump your TT01 and get a top touring car chassis, something like a XRay T2 might help. Sorry, but that's the reality, and you'll still fail. Life's a beeeech!! :)

    yep i think i'm gonna buy a hpi sprint 2 ?!?

    should he handle the speed

    greets dK V8


  8. Traxxas is saying that on their new brushless rides, aren't they? ... they *might* make it

    But here's the deal... give noobies a totally overpowered uncontrollable R/C = lots of $$ to be made in spares. :D

    Their brushless ESC also has a "training" setting like valet mode... yeah,

    i too doubt noobies will read the instructions enough to find it.

    50mph = 80km/h

    yep, did it at our recent velodrome - just kept circling at 76-79km/h for laps on end

    you'll need about 100m runup to reach cruising speed

    got onboard video footage too

    had a crazy idea of trying it with a TT01... but didn't get time to fix one up. Handling could be suss.

    but even with a CF & alloy chassis, you'll need skills of a mod class racer to handle that speed.

    Hit anything and you'll need a broom to pickup the pieces.

    ok but with wich car i CAN handle the speed ???


  9. Well Driftking V8 - you could try a 1/1 scale V8, or a Saturn V rocket but I doubt that your TT01 would touch those speeds with much less! :unsure:

    Be realistic, what do you want to do with your car? If drifting is your thing (as your name suggests?), the top drifters in UK competition all use the Novak XRS with a 18/19turn can, the Moneymotor, Orion Drift Machine and Yokomo D1SP being the favourites. The TT01 will even struggle to handle a good 19turn without some serious handling mods, but it can certainly be improved. It would never handle with an 8 turn, unless wide open car park bashing is your thing?

    thnx but like I said I want a fast car but I also want that I can handle the speed

    sow i need a new ESC (what ??) and a motor(what??), good advice markbt73 !!

    but i want SPEED ( no no petrol or niro, just electro)


  10. OK, let me see if I can figure this out...

    Your car worked fine, then you crashed it and ever since then your ESC beeps and the car doesn't react at all. Right?

    So start with what you know about how the car works. I apologize if I cover stuff you already know, but to solve a problem, you have to go back to the very beginning. I drew this schematic a while ago to explain to my wife how a basic RC car works:

    So now, you have to work out whether it's a signal problem, or a power problem.

    Check these things, in this order, and don't skip anything:

    1. Turn on the transmitter. Are the batteries ok? Depending on the age of your radio, it should have either a gauge, or a set of LED lights. If the gauge is not all the way up, or all of the lights are not on, get new batteries for the transmitter. This is to make absolutely sure the transmitter is giving a signal.

    2. Take the body off the car, and check the wiring. Make sure everything is plugged in where it should be, including the crystal, and no wires are broken or frayed, including the antenna wire. The crash might have knocked something loose.

    Once you've checked that everything is in place:

    3. Unplug the motor wires, plug a fully-charged battery into the car, and turn the car on. Try the steering.

    If the steering works:

    4. The radio is OK; it is receiving a signal and power. Reprogram your ESC (refer to the instructions on how to do this). See if it works now.

    If the steering does not work:

    5. There is either no signal or no power to the radio. Unplug the ESC from the receiver, and find the little 4-cell battery holder that came with your radio. Put batteries in it, and plug it into the "BATT" position on the receiver. Turn it on and try the steering again. If it works, the receiver is getting signal, which means the ESC is not delivering power. Check the wiring again and reprogram it. If that doesn't solve the problem, then the ESC may be damaged.

    6. If the steering does not work with the small battery pack powering the radio directly, then the receiver is not getting signal. This means that either the receiver or the crystal is the problem. Try a different set of crystals and check it again. If it doesn't work with different crystals, then the receiver itself is to blame.

    The idea is to check each component by itself, to determine where the problem is. But you can't assume that it's one thing, when it might be another, or you'll just end up wasting money replacing parts that don't need to be replaced. Troubleshooting isn't hard, but it does require patience and attention. Just check one thing, and if it's okay, move on to the next thing, and so on, until you've found the faulty part.

    thnx my problem is solved i've got new crystals !!!

    thnx to everyone that posted

    !!

    thnx Driftking(marcsnak3y)

    post-23429-1195156636.jpg


  11. I moved my Druratrax 8t pro racing ESC from my TT-01 to my B4, so now my TT-01 has the XRS in it. I tried my Super Stock RZ, Komodo 19T pro, and a Team Orion 17T SV2 Pro BB Double wound on it and I could tell the difference in all three as far as acceleration and speed goes. I ran the same gearing for all 3 motors 23T/58T so honestly I can't see your 40A arguement, did my Novak GTX perform better with the same motors on my TA-05MS sure, but the GTX is also a lot more money than the XRS. The XRS is a HUGE step up from the stock TEU101BK both in acceleration and power output from motors, its a great ESC for what it does imo especially given its price point.

    but what motor should i take, i need a fast motor around 50/60 mph ??


  12. If your steering doesnt work from the transmitter i would say your reciever is broken, that would also explain why the TEU101BK is beeping since it thinks that it is on without a transmitter being on, the beeping is a safety feature to remind you to turn on your transmitter or remind you that you forgot to turn the car off.

    no he does work again !!!!!

    new crystal in it !!!

    thnx for helpin me out guys (*)

    V8.jpg

    post-23429-1195141560.jpg


  13. Adam

    To me, it looks as though that battery you are looking at, is made from 24 "AA" size cells, not the sub "c" cell that is used for RC cars.

    "AA" cells generally do not have the ability to be charged at high currents, nor are they designed to cope with the high discharge currents associated with RC cars, especially those with twin motors.

    I would stear clear of these. If you want long runtimes, try some of the 4200mAhr+ 7.2 volt packs that are designed for RC use.

    Now for your car.... and just to add to what Ryan has said.

    OK, does anything work in the car at all?? Does the car steer?

    Personally, the first thing I would do is Test your Transmitter and the receiver in your car. To do this, disconnect and remove the ESC (Teu101BK) from the car all together.

    Fit 4 new AA batteries to the battery holder & switch that came with your radio, and plug that into the battery port on the receiver. I would also connect the second servo to the Channel 2 port on the receiver. Then turn on the transmitter, and then the 4 AA batteries in the car, and use the transmitter to controll the car. If you find that the car steers, and the second servo moves when you move the throttle, then your radio is OK.

    Please let me know what happens

    Cheers

    I have the same problem(maybe the cristal)


  14. try a pair of new xtals then!

    assume it was all working properly BEFORE??

    have you gotten the RX wet?

    got good batteries in the TX? (what model Futaba?)

    btw the bleeping is coming from your motor.

    yeah first he did do it great but once he crached and now he doesn't react

    i've got a futuba receiver the batteries are OK what do you mean with rx wet ??

    post-23429-1195051433.jpg