Otis311

Sure are a lot of parenthesis ( this symbol "( )" )

May need to just drill the head off with a ~3mm bit. Once the cover is removed there should be just enough thread to grab with some vise-grips.

The ball diff included with the TD2 is superb, sans the included plastic nut. Once broken in it is the smoothest diff I have ever had. And yes it is adjustable from the outside of the gearbox.

Is your ball diff tight enough? That grunting sound may be the ball diff barking.

Is your ball diff tight enough? That grunting sound may be the ball diff barking.

High turn, low Kv brushless motors are a relatively new phenomena. Tamiya is typically slow to react to trends on their lower end models. The entry level kits come with silver can motors as well, so they are designed around that motor to some extent. I have come to a point in this hobby where silver can motors are fast enough for my driving habits. Racing on the other hand is a different story. Modified classes would likely be running top of the line chassis. The thing with the TT chassis classes is that that they seem to follow strict motor rules in which case the playing field is even between all drivers.

You are attempting to apply one of the most difficult Tayima stickers. It is not impossible though. Like others have mentioned you need to heat them. I used to use a heat gun but I have since acquired a hot air workstation. Designed to be used on surface mount electronics they have a very focused nozzle and precise temperature adjustment.

Fortunately I had some older brothers to influence me in the early nineties. Smashing Pumpkins - Siamese Dream NIN - Pretty Hate Machine Pearl Jam - Ten Same brothers had a Frog and a Falcon.

Cha-ching. I think I have everything needed to get this project completed. Already had some 5x8 bearings. Figured locking the diffs would be good for my needs which will be slow off-roading.

It would be nice if they made more full width hex rears too. The Dark Impact rears are pretty much full width but of course they are hard to find now. Fortunately for fronts you can use racing wheels. Rear racing wheels though have that very thick hub which is quite annoying.

May I ask what your reservations are with the Tamiya actuator set? Aside from the high cost of course. I suppose the simplest method of control would be an electronic speed control. The only thing is that it would not know the endpoints and you would have to be careful to stop when the limit is reached. The Tamiya set looks like it takes care of this with micro switches. This could all be done similarly with an Arduino and some programming.

Thanks for the input Saito. There's a lot to learn about this era of Clods. I got to work today. Tore into the gear boxes. They are mint and have a nice coating of ceramic grease so I'll just swap in ball bearings while apart. I was thinking it will be nice to put a 3 channel receiver in it and run the front and rear steering independently. There was just a wye in there as it was. Not much else to report. The Novak ESC and Trinity motor were the things dreams are made of when I was younger. Now I have them, I guess I've reached the pinnacle. That ESC is so heavy, 100 grams! Beats a servo and MSC any day though. Man there is just something about the orange and purple Novak.

About 15 years ago my old boss gave me this monster truck when one of my paychecks was light. Best I can tell it is some version of ESP Clodzilla. Figured it is about time I gave it a little restoration. Maybe re-grease the gearboxes and add ball bearings if needed, steel pinions too. One of the shock ends broke while sitting so I'll need to address that. Maybe get a new Quicrun 880 ESC. It has an old Novak Super Rooster in it now. The Trinity 16 turn motors are basically unused. It has a couple Hitec metal gear servos. I think the whole truck is basically unused. Anybody know what version of Clodzilla this is?

My brother put some metal screen in his. I like to think the 1/10th scale driver and co-driver found the engine ran too hot in the desert and they needed more air flow.

What motor does it currently have?