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Otis311

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About Otis311

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    Massachusetts, USA

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  1. Are Core-RC motors any good? I like that they have built in fans on the armatures. I suspect the motors are just relabeled generic silver cans similar to HPI motors. The HPI 15T Firebolt has worked good while it lasted but burned out relatively quick. I have read that people use the Core-RC 21T for certain racing classes. I am thinking of getting the 27T to replace my Mabuchi in hopes that it would run a little cooler.
  2. Batteries always had a special place in my heart. They were as much a part of my cars as any other part. Growing up without much money available I had one car (Dirt Thrasher with MSC), an old AM transmitter and one battery. That battery was the most important part of the car. It may have only given me 5 pitiful minutes of run time but it was all I had. That battery was abused by a timed quick charger but kept on ticking. I eventually got a two pack of the cheapest batteries I could get. They were intended for the oh so pined for, yet utterly unobtainable, Emaxx. Those batteries were also used and abused. It was bittersweet to toss (recycle) the batteries but also a relief to leave that aspect of my life behind.
  3. Spotted this while watching Le Mans. Boy it sure would be nice if Tamiya were to release this vehicle. Would make an ideal entry in these endurance races.
  4. I tried a similar approach on my latest set. They seem to be holding fine after ten packs. You can always add a tiny drop here or there if they start to separate. My last sets I glued so well they basically became one composite unit. The inner foam sucked up a bunch of glue as well.
  5. I have found with those preset motor mounts there is a lot of play in the holes. I snug the screws in the proper holes for the pinion size but push the motor toward or away from the spur, then tighten to achieve a proper mesh.
  6. I opened mine up to see and it has similar play, ~1mm. Do you have any 5mm dia shims on hand? You could shim between the spur mount and the bearing probably. I haven't had any problems running it as is but kind of want to fix it now.
  7. I prefer to use the smallest wire possible. I wouldn't be too concerned with the thinner insulation. If the wires are routed well and anchored to prevent chaffing, there shouldn't be any problems. I can't stand the giant wires manufactures use on batteries to make them appear more powerful. Example: 12 gauge wire with super thick insulation that makes installing the battery a pain.
  8. Monza after many rain dampened laps in vain. And yes @Andreas W and @Verskis , the exit from turn 3 seems to set the tone for the lap.
  9. My grass track has plateaued as far as lap count goes. It's become lumpy in some key ares which has made it more difficult. I'd really like to try it on a paved surface. I found that if I ripped out of the final corner and hit turn 1 with a late apex I could carry into 2-3 almost straight on and thread the needle. Still would have to slow down to tighten up turn 3 though. The S at 4-5-6 seems to be faster if you go slow but I have also nailed it through there and with some luck it can be pretty quick.
  10. Can you clarify the the direction of the movement? Is it forward and aft or is is it in and out of the differential? I'm guessing it is in and out of the diff. I usually go with the black o-rings. As you mentioned, you have to check for binding at the extremes of suspension travel. I have been using antiwear grease on the splines or flats of the diff outdrives to help retain them from working their way out due to the driveshaft slack.
  11. I believe I have read that it was for a racing class in Japan. Something like it was an open endbell equivalent of a 27t silver can. Having replaceable brushes made it more environmentally friendly as far as e-waste. I could also be talking out my rear too, as this is just hearsay. I have one in my TT-01E. It's a nice motor, good torque and looks great with it's blue accents. Not super fast though obviously due to the high turns.
  12. Rough cut with curved body scissors and finish with a sanding drum in a Dremel tool. Sandpaper works too but takes much longer.
  13. I'm also 99.9% sure. I believe the positive and ground rails just run across all of the ports. I'm assuming this is an S-FHSS and not an AM receiver. In my TT-02 with a Futaba I have the batt slot and chan 3 slot powering fans.
  14. Laundry detergent in powdered form most likely. Liquid detergent is most common where I'm from, and those pod things that everyone is eating. For cleaning grease I'll usually use liquid dish detergent for hand washing dishes.
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