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About Otis311

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  1. I like the three holes myself. Rides great over rough terrain.
  2. That's how i say it. My dad taught me to solder when I was a very young lad. That's how he said it so it stuck. He's from Boston so there are plenty of words I pronounce wrong.
  3. Dammnnnn! They serve meals on that flight? Fun project, nice job.
  4. Looks normal. A lot of that play is from the upper arm step screws. If you were to replace the upper arms with adjustable tie rods with ball ends there would much less play. In real world driving/bashing it really doesn't matter too much.
  5. Not sure where to start. You will certainly need a charger that is capable of balance charging LiPo. Even better would be a charger that also has a storage charge mode for when you won't be using the batteries for more than a handful of days. I would also suggest you only use the batteries in vehicles with some sort of battery alarm/cutoff. Most modern ESC's have this feature, not Tamiya ESC's though unfortunately. I can assume you would want 2S (7.4 volt) to use in place of typical stick packs. I would look for a capacity above 4000mah and a discharge rate of at a minimum 20C. That would be adequate for any stock Tamiya vehicle. You will have to look around for certain packs that will fit the oval shaped battery holders of most Tamiya cars. Most LiPo packs are rectangular of course. Just remember, like most anything, you get what you pay for and batteries are not a good place to cheap out.
  6. Is the motor mount the aluminum one that comes with the ver 2 pro and race kits?
  7. As far as I know they are a direct swap. The only real difference in the version II M05 is the A-parts and the one piece lower arms (L-parts). Along with more battery options the V2 A parts allow for lo-pro servos to be better utilized.
  8. Good for an oval track race car maybe
  9. This won't last long. Wish I could grab this!
  10. I can't believe what I have just seen. It has been decades in the making. Tamiya has actually included a steel pinion with my most recent kit. I just received a long back-ordered TT-02 Rally Impreza 58631. I opened the box to see a dark grey 17t pinion sticking to the torque tuned motor. I couldn't believe my eyes. Upon further inspection I found that this kit also included a second pinion, 19t, also steel. Has anyone else noticed this?
  11. Good to hear. So that would open a world of 0.8mod pinions. Seems like many of the high power 1/10 trucks and 1/8 scale in general are using 5mm 0.8mod pinions.
  12. Does anyone have experience with reducer sleeves that allow 5mm bore pinions to be used on 3mm motor shafts? I have seen them on Tower Hobbies but was hesitant to use them because I feared they may not run perfectly true. That and I can't stand making a mechanical system more complicated by adding unnecessary small parts.
  13. Foredom brand flexible shaft tools are hard to beat. Haven't shopped for one in a while though so not sure how much they cost. Great tool, great for detail work with foot control for speed.
  14. I typically replace the screw pins with stainless steel shafts and e-clips. I leave the piece you are speaking of alone though. It adds a lot of strength the the front end. Unless you find/make an aluminum brace to bridge the front of the two pins as is standard in higher end vehicles. The main issue with the screw pins is that they fall out and/or rust. There is not a huge gain in reducing slop though.
  15. It feels like time slows down as you watch a part just slowly roll to the gap between boards. You'd think I'd have learned my lesson by now.
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