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Everything posted by Otis311

  1. I have had a new servo saver on my wish list for a while. My GTI wanders depending on the last position of the steering wheel. It also wobbles the front wheels pretty bad under heavy breaking. Fun car though. Just took mine out a couple hours ago.
  2. OldSchoolRC1 makes some good points. I also run 1.9 wheels, Hummer wheels actually, with good crawler tires. The tires should be less than ~4.2 inches in diameter to prevent the rears from touching. I drive my Dynahead as a crawler so I wrapper zip ties round the servo savers. The rear steering is cumbersome. It is important to not have too much throw or else the bellcrank cams over and locks up. I had run a silver can in mine for a long time and just put in a Tamiya 35T. Much more cogging now but better drag brake. The silver can did surprisingly well at slow crawling but got fairly hot. I had considered a 550 motor but didn't want it to stick that much farther out the side of the chassis.
  3. Nicely done. Good edits. That one landing on the front wheel looked brutal. The servo saver got utilized to the full extent on that one. Handled pretty wheel for rear wheel drive, those spike tires sure help.
  4. You shouldn't need to worry about overheating either the 1060 or 1080 with a Super Stock motor on a 6cell nimh. The motor itself would likely be the component that gets hot depending on gearing. While there is nothing wrong with using nickel cell batteries, you should not be scared of lithium batteries.
  5. Does it depend where in the corner you would be spinning out? While braking or coasting or on the throttle. Being rear wheel drive with no front brakes it seems like the nose wouldn't dive too much into a turn, but out of the corner it should squat a bit.
  6. This is really a pet peeve of mine with some Tamiya builds. Nothing worse than installing a nice precision ground ball bearing and it just falls loosely into the recess. Something that just came to mind would be to mix a tiny amount of epoxy and put a thin coating on the outer race and around the receiving hole then press the bearing in. It would be semi permanent but could be removed if necessary. A little would go a long way. As Juggular mentioned the gap is deceivingly small.
  7. I have been thinking of ways to raise the upper shock mounting point. I looks like Hop-up # 54947 Carbon Damper Stay II has higher mounts for a ~61mm shock. I could use something like that with CVA minis and soft buggy springs. This was supposed to be a cheap build lol.
  8. Thank both @ThunderDragonCy and @Pylon80 . I appreciate you input. I will try some of your recommendations.
  9. Front buggy springs on longer shocks would definitely be better. I see why long damper spec rally vehicles are sought after now. The 53163 spring set was on my radar. I have that for some other cars. I don't like buying the expensive sets of springs when I really only want the soft red springs, but this is the hobby I chose. Are there any good yet inexpensive aftermarket springs for the CVA shocks?
  10. I was wondering what springs are being used to obtain 30% droop. I have tried a variety of springs in my collection and I can only barely get the suspension to sag under it's own weight. This is for a TT-02 in rally setup (suspension modded as descried in OP) using super mini CVA with no spacers. Thanks!
  11. Cheers for asking this question. I have been pondering this for the last couple days as I build my Impreza. My best guesses were already mentioned. Larger bearing surface and more robust head for removal.
  12. Right? Looks cool. Does it travel linearly rather than an arc? Like a 1:1 steering rack. I wonder how friction is reduced on the slider.
  13. Love that track, great idea. For some reason I only bash around in the snow. I will make a little track in a couple days when we get the forecast foot of snow. Yes, "pre-cooling" definitely helps. Again it always depends on the exact weather but in sub freezing conditions it certainly makes a difference. Of course brittle Tamiya plastic only gets more brittle at lower temps. That hasn't stopped me from having fun in the snow though.
  14. You are going to need a 16T pinion for that arrangement. I have found the stock 21T pinion to be too big even for a silver can with kit tires on my Dirt Thrasher. The Blazing Star with bigger tires from the factory would burn up the silver can. I would also suggest an aluminum motor mount from ebay or the like.
  15. I can see why you wouldn't want to hide that chassis. It is beautiful! Clear plastic rods would be another option. Not sure how to attach it though. I think you can heat and bend it.
  16. Good suggestion to remove the pins from the connector itself. Easier said than done though. You need to depress the two spring tabs on either side of the pins. You can find something thin and rigid to stick in there and just brute force it. I use a piece of 1/8" brass tubing that I expanded slightly just for this purpose that slides over the pins and compresses the tabs.
  17. Are you looking for a Tamiya branded motor mount specifically?
  18. Running in the snow is a tricky thing. There are so many types of snow that sometimes it is great fun and other times it is a miserable failure. A nice thin layer of rough, crispy, frozen snow seems to be the best. Decent traction and you ride on top. Light fluffy snow is useless, you just sink. Wet snow sticks to everything and weighs you down. I put homemade skis on the Sand Viper a long time ago and got video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2J5khb6USg I wish I had video of the Lunchbox running with RC airplane skis.
  19. Nothing wrong with using the 1080. it is more expensive of course but has many adjustable settings. I know what you are talking about. I screwed mine together with the extra screws supplied in the kit. I think they left them out just so you could easily lift the rear cage by removing the two screws in the back. I don't see myself needing quick access and it just seems proper to have those extra screws in there.
  20. That seems to be part of the problem. It seems like an arbitrary measurement in the manual. I feel like the length of the shaft from the face of the mounting flange would be more useful. I have the slipper clutch in my BBX so maybe that allowed the stock pinion to fit, barely.
  21. Soldering Deans (or Tee) connectors is a little difficult unless you have the proper equipment. You need a relatively powerful iron and a set of third hands is also helpful. If you use a weak iron you risk melting the plastic portion before the metal tabs get hot enough to melt the solder. Like soldering anything you need to flux and tin the wires and connector prior to actually soldering them together. The problem with Deans connectors is that they are a little tight to work with, especially the female battery ends. Tamiya (molex) connectors are actually a crimped connection. There is nothing wrong with using adapters. My main issue with them is the high prices. They are also bulky and create another failure point in your electrical system. One final note. My large fleet is all Deans connectors. If I were to convert all of them today I would use the now common XT60 connector.
  22. Good to hear. My Dual Rider is a rocket ship with the sport tuned motor. Very fun watching it wiggle around as it fights for grip out of corners.
  23. I am running a Superstock BZ with a HW1060. Thing will backflip on carpet with the stock pinion on 2S. The ESC cover fits with this setup and the pinion just barely fit. The only problem I have is the on-off switch wire being too short. I ended up just sticking it to the top of the ESC cover.
  24. The only way to use the 27T pinion is to buy the alloy motor mount hop-up. The main problem I am having is that the pinion doesn't center very well on the motor shaft. I attribute this to the adapter sleeve that is needed for the 3mm bore of the pinion. The mesh is also very tight and sounds pretty nasty. The hop-up motor mount might solve the tight mesh issue. With the stock motor and press fit plastic pinion the mesh sounded perfectly smooth. Be careful with the external capacitors on the motor endbell. They are very easy to break if you flex the wires.
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