Otis311

My brother put some metal screen in his. I like to think the 1/10th scale driver and co-driver found the engine ran too hot in the desert and they needed more air flow.

What motor does it currently have?

If I had to guess what is happening I would say that the battery voltage gets so low during the high draw that it's not actually the low voltage cutoff but the ESC just shutting off due to very low voltage. Since it doesn't have a mechanical power switch, rather a soft button type switch, it doesn't turn back on after the battery voltage stabilizes. The low voltage warning on this ESC is just reduced power output. My crawler just drives noticeably slower. I have used cutoffs with NiMH batteries mostly just so I don't have to recharge them as much and since at that point the car is driving slower anyway. It's usually because I have the ESC setup for lithium and just don't bother changing it with different chemistry batteries. Do you know what setting you have the low voltage cut-off set to? From the 1080 manual: "3. Cutoff Voltage Sets the voltage at which the ESC lowers or removes power to the motor in order to either keep the battery at a safe minimum voltage (for LiPo batteries). The ESC monitors the battery voltage all the time; it will immediately cut off the output when the voltage goes below the cutoff threshold. The RED LED will flash a short, single flash that repeats (☆-, ☆-, ☆-) to indicate the low-voltage cutoff protection is activated. Option 1: Disabled. The ESC does not cut the power off due to low voltage. Please pay attention to the power change of your vehicle. In general, the battery voltage gets pretty low when your vehicle is severely losing power, then you should stop using that pack. Option 2: Auto (Low). Low cutoff voltage, difficult to get the LVC protection activated, is applicable to batteries with poor discharge capability. The corresponding cutoff voltage is 3.0V/Cell for Lipo battery and 4.5V for whole NiMH pack. Option 3: Auto (Medium). Medium cutoff voltage, prone to getting the LVC Protection activated, is applicable to batteries with ordinary discharge capability. The corresponding cutoff voltage is 3.2V/Cell for Lipo battery and 5.0V for whole NiMH pack. Option 4: Auto (High). High cutoff voltage, very prone to getting the LVC Protection activated, is applicable to packs with great discharge capability. The corresponding cutoff voltage is 3.4V/Cell for Lipo battery and 5.5V for whole NiMH pack."

I know what you mean. The pre applied stuff on threads offers just enough resistance to prevent movement. A lot of times when I remove a screw that had blue loctite on it will have the dried residual and it is enough to clog up the threads and hold when reassembled. I don't know if the thread lock "crayons" offer a similar solution. Anyway, I have been using Pacer Technology Z-42 Blue Thread Locker forever and it has served me well.

Two different protractors gave the same angle of just over 14 degrees. That is the angle between the tub bottom and the front swing arm pins. Quite visibly less than my BBX, DT-03 and TRF201, Funny I never really noticed until today. I have driven my Sand Viper more than any car I own too.

Yes this exactly! I have a favorite pair of needle nose plies with just the right tip. I was pretty bummed out when my puppy ate them but I was able to replace the handle. I also have a favorite small flat head screw driver that is perfect for jamming in one of the exposed holes of the installed e-clip. Just a slight twist and they pop off. Dog has not had access to this, yet. One thing to note with the e-clips is that, like washers, they have two different sides. Due to the manufacturing process (stamping), one side is sharp and square and the other side is rounded. When I install them I try to have the sharp square side in the position to be accessible as it is more effective for the flat head screwdriver to hook onto.

Like mentioned already, possibly soap residue. I dilute the dish soap, like 4 to 1 water to soap. Straight soap on a dry body is very difficult to remove. After rinsing well (excessively and you know it will be good when your fingers are literally squeaking across the the surface) I will dry with a paper towel. Mask the windows with very clean hands and try not to touch anything. Finally blow it out with a compressor immediately prior to paining to remove dust/dog fur. I have sprayed in every weather condition possible from arctic to tropic and have never had any severe problems. The paint is always warm and well shaken though. I guess there is always the possibility of a bad can. You never know how old a can could be from a store too.

Best of luck. I have a few of those Hobbico mats in various sizes. Indeed those scales at the front edge are handy.

Since you are considering NiMH batteries would it be possible to use fewer cells? That is, if your electronics would function on the lower voltage.

What an amazing piece of work. Thanks for the contribution to the community!

No intent to dispute your numbers here . Just posted at the same time as you and basically left it as confirmation of your number. My wheels are old and dirty so that is likely the reduction in my value.

My vintage Supershot Rears are 48.5mm

I agree but unfortunately Futaba has discontinued these cheap servos. I used S3004 and S3010 in all my cars but they are no longer available. They have replaced them with digital versions which is good although they cost a little more. A couple of problems with the old low end Futaba servos are that they were designed for lower voltages, 4.8v or at most 6v. The other problem is that they are not low profile and many new cars require that. A low profile Futaba servo costs mucho dinero.

I'm pretty sure. You would need the corresponding pads too.You should be able to use most any spur as long as the center hole is the proper diameter.

I had a wishlist ready to go for when they went back online but never pulled the trigger. Yep, All my orders are a $50 minimum in order to receive free shipping. I try to build up a list of stuff I need so I can do one bulk purchase. It would be nice if they actually had some parts in stock though.

I'll add: DF-03 (Dark Impact, Keen Hawk, Avante MK.II) have 0.5 mod. And I'll ask the same question everyone else asks, WHY!!?? Super Astute, 0.5 mod. AHhh again why? Fortunately you can change the Astute's pitch with new slipper pads and gears. DF-03 you need to have the slipper upgrade to do the same.

That's cool to see a picture of the brace. I'm sorry, I designed for the rear posts only. All my bodies have low hoods so the front posts are very short. I run it on my m-05, m-06 and mf-01x. I don't have an m-07 or m-08 so cannot confirm fitment for them. I was thinking for the VW bus body the bumper solution could be used in the front and the brace in the back.

The MF-01X brace is compatible with other M chassis body post spacing.

Tamiya USA made a post about this issue https://www.tamiyausa.com/blog/fix-body-movement-58668-volkswagon-type-2/ . It uses the bumper like mentioned. I designed a brace for the rear body posts for 3D Printing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6531383 Shown on a TT-02 but it is of similar design. The sleeves need to be tall in order to resist the moment forces of the posts bending side to side. The thin carbon ones don't seem as effective as the two posts and the brace just bend like a parallelogram.

Yep like mentioned I just twist them off. Once one end of the turnbuckle is off I just lever it off the other ends ball. It seems like the more careful I try to be the more damage I do so I just man handle them. I do try to limit how many times I remove them but honestly it hasn't been a problem. If I were racing I would be replacing them regularly anyway probably .

Yep. Same here. Excellent for the price. If you purchase off their website they are like $16 US a piece.

Can the the rear arms be flipped on the DT-02? It looks like the shocks can be mounted on the front side of the rear tower and the arms have holes for the ball to screw into on both sides. The drive shaft would have a little forward angle to it though.

What's a wife?