Otis311

With what I have at arms reach I would soak in kerosene, rinse with degreaser, blow out with compressor, then lube with synthetic engine oil. This would all be better accomplished without shields but, like yours, some are not easily removed without damage. If the bearings are to be used in a sealed gearbox or exposed on only one side you could just rip off the shield and live without it. If I was to use grease I would probably heat up some grease until it was liquid and give the bearings a bath. If I had the equipment available I would use an ultrasonic cleaner with a proper solvent. As far as lube goes, I believe some racers remove the grease from new bearings and just run them dry to reduce resistance. I kind f like this idea as they would also be less likely to accumulate dirt where exposed to dusty conditions.

I was wondering if you could use the Dynahead portals on the front axles to more closely match the rear track speed and height.

OMG I had no idea you could run one big track around the two rear assemblies on the G6-01/TR chassis. That would be so cool even with regular wheels and tires up front. I have been resisting these things for a while but this is tough. Don't forget the numerous ball bearings required if you want to replace the bushes.

The Sand Viper has a special place in my heart. Good call on the Tamiya steel pinion. They are so well machined you have a tough time hearing the course pitched gears. Nice and quiet. I wish my DT-02 looked that shiny. I have many hours of hard running on that bad boy.

The M-05 is a prime candidate for the tape treatment!

Similarly, I have been applying strips of electrical tape along the seems in the gear box cases where the surfaces are at least uniform and flat. It's amazing how even large grains of sand find their way through the smallest gaps.

Maybe for spec racing classes. That's my best guess. It seems like they market a lot of their brushed motors for specific vehicles and specific races.

Are you able to infer the frequency of the click and whether it would likely relate to wheel rpm, drive shaft rpm or motor rpm?

Could somebody please clarify the difference between the following two common 60D foams: - TAM53255 - Tamiya M-Chassis 60D Inner Sponge Inserts (4) (Hard) - TAM50686 - Tamiya M-Chassis 60D Inner Sponge Inserts (4) It seems like the 53255 are typically suggested. I bought some 60D foams a while ago and can't remember the model number. I did not like them though. They seemed to fill the S-grip tire way too much and made them have a ballooned tread. I ended up just using some 55D foams I had on hand. Is it normal for the 60D foams to stretch out tires like that? It was kind of unusable. I am going to buy some of the new "soft" 60D radial tires and would like to get the proper foams. Any help would be appreciated.

The M-05 and M-06 really are great for forcing you to concentrate on the nuances of precision driving. Too many times I get comfortable just hammering a 4wd car around without much thought.

Thanks to all of you for the thoughtful responses. It makes sense what is being said about the tires biting in initially and suddenly losing grip when transitioning from rolling to sliding laterally. I appreciate understanding the cars behavior from a physics point of view. I have developed a number of bad habits over the years. Driving a variety of vehicles on every imaginable surface has not helped hone any specific skill. I have been focusing on throttle control more these days and have seen a reduction in wheel spin. Adjusting exponential has helped this as well. Braking has been a lot harder to fine tune. I tend to hit full brakes at the last second. For some reason I find it very difficult to modulate braking. I think It has to do with the short throw of the trigger in that direction as well as the unnatural movement of extending my finger. That and the fact that braking happens when the car is at its fastest and has to be applied rapidly. This has also been helped with exponential and reducing overall brake force. Steering is definitely my biggest problem. The bad habits I have formed over decades are very ingrained. Full lock has been mentioned a few times in this thread. "Full lock" might as well be my middle name. I basically throw the car into the corner and use throttle to fine tune the line. I am glad to hear that turning the wheel past a certain point has diminishing returns. That is something I have noticed but wasn't sure if it was just a result of low overall grip. I imagine this is still the case even on high grip surfaces to some extent. I have been playing with steering exponential and dual rates. The trouble I have with making chassis adjustments is that I don't have a great baseline to work from. In general I have softened and lowered the suspension to assist in overall handling. Now that I know that this turn in issue is not just in my head or an optical illusion or something I can try to work on it.

I was wondering if anyone could explain the understeer that I am encountering with a number of different chassis (M-05, M-06, MF-01X, TT-02) on low grip surfaces. On initial turn in, off throttle, the car will bite and rotate good for an instant and then it quickly stops rotating and pushes the front. Once it starts to understeer it behaves consistently throughout the remainder of the corner. All of my cars are shimmed well with minimal play. It just seems odd that I am experiencing the same handling with a variety of vehicles.

Something to keep in mind is the inherent variability of the filament diameter itself. More expensive filament has a tighter tolerance but it is still a tolerance and can result in either over or under extrusion. Not saying that this is the issue you are encountering in this case but just something to be aware of.

I should have mentioned this as well. It really helps when trying to lay down a very detailed first layer.

Glad you changed the print orientation on those arms. Another suggestion for printing symmetrical parts, like the left and right suspension arms, would be to mirror one in the slicing program. That way if there is any discrepancies in the printing they will be cancelled out. As far as your first layer goes. I want to say you need to lift the build plate a tiny bit. I prefer to have my first layer "elephant foot" a little. Definitely helps with adhesion but requires de-burring after print is complete. Parts need to be cleaned up anyway so I don't mind. I also use clear glue stick if I really want it to work. I should add I only print with PLA at 200*C with the glass plate at 60*C.

Now they just need to do the same for M chassis mounts so you don't have to buy the C parts tree. A lot of times I need new posts because I want to mount a different body and the posts are too short. Probably one of the most stressful parts of building a car for me is cutting the posts to the right length. I usually just leave them a hole or two long just in case.

I just looked at the manual for the TT-02RR #47382 on TamiyaUSA. I would have to say they are not threaded as it suggests threading the rods all the way in and backing them out to position. That and the fact that they do not seem to directly state that you should note the direction of the threads as one end would have reverse threads. This is all speculation though.

Yep it'll work. Check out page 14 in the manual. You will need to purchase a 0.8mod (or 32 pitch) 18 tooth pinion gear with a 3mm ( or 1/8") bore though.

Currently F1 requires the use of two different tire compounds during a race so by default a pit stop is required. I have been thinking about the possibility of pit stops for our current discussion. I kind of like the idea of a mandatory stop of some determined length. Even if a driver didn't need to perform any maintenance to the car it would allow for a breather. I think the stop would need to take place at any time mid race but neither at the start or finish. Just thinking out loud like everyone else.

Good points made here. My motivation for this question was two fold. Firstly, the oil is indeed making a bit of a mess. A drop every session seems to be overdoing it. There is a lot of residual oil film on the outside of the can, and likely inside, that collects fine dust. Maybe I will reduce the application to one drop when a vehicle is taken off the shelf for the first time in a long while. I had figured the bushings were a sintered metal, like Oilite, based on their appearance. Nevertheless, I thought the extra lubrication couldn't hurt, but it actually may be if it is fouling up the innards of the motor. A little bit goes a long way, especially with the synthetic engine oil I am using, much like Juggular is using in his application. The second motivation for this question is that the two vehicles with basically new Torque Tuned motors are making a noise that I attribute to the motor. It is the classic "chatter" sound of a shaft spinning in a bushing that is worn or dry or both. It's that nasty squealing/shrieking sound and it seems to be at a frequency that matches the motor rpm. It also is most noticeable at very light loads and goes away under heavy acceleration. It just seemed odd that a new motor would behave this way. Wasn't sure if anyone else is experiencing this.

Few questions in addition to the above: What are you using for a battery? Is the kit built completely stock or did you upgrade any parts? Can you describe the pieces of debris found in the motor if possible?

I'm wondering what you all are doing for lubrication of bronze motor bushings. I try to put a drop of oil on the exposed endbell bushing before every run. I don't however make it a habit to regularly lube the output shaft bushing due to lack of easy access. I will always oil it before initial install and if it is ever out for maintenance. Does anyone lubricate both bushings every session? Is it even necessary to oil these bushings regularly anyway? For the most part I am dealing with silver cans so not really worried if they wear out but not prematurely if possible. Tamiya uses bronze bushes in some more expensive open endbell motors too and they are worth preserving. Thanks in advance for any input.

While there is a 99.999% chance the direction of the retaining ring wouldn't matter, there is still a chance some debris could get caught in there and rip the ring off. It is worth fixing just for piece of mind. Any of the methods of disassembly would work. Popping off ball ends can be a pain. A lot of times I twist them along the axis of the rod and they off without out harm. I wouldn't mess with removing the adjuster for this though. Some of the balls in that kit have hex heads in the tops that allow removal without popping off the adjuster. I would probably just remove the suspension pin if I were you. Don't worry about backing out a self tapped screw, especially one of the pin retaining screws. They don't really get stressed. Just make sure it is seated properly in the now threaded hole when reinstalling.

I am in complete agreement on that. the Hobbywing 1060 is ok in my book though with the switch capable of being mounted to the ESC itself. That being said I have also cut off the switch and soldered on traditional switches for obvious reasons.

It's true this seems like a losing battle with the posts that are inherently bendy. The Squash Van has some braces included that may help a little but the body on that truck still flies around like crazy. I think the key here is to make the holes in the brace fairly tight fitting to eliminate any movement. The brace I just printed is about a rigid as I would want.