Otis311

You are going to need a 16T pinion for that arrangement. I have found the stock 21T pinion to be too big even for a silver can with kit tires on my Dirt Thrasher. The Blazing Star with bigger tires from the factory would burn up the silver can. I would also suggest an aluminum motor mount from ebay or the like.

I can see why you wouldn't want to hide that chassis. It is beautiful! Clear plastic rods would be another option. Not sure how to attach it though. I think you can heat and bend it.

Good suggestion to remove the pins from the connector itself. Easier said than done though. You need to depress the two spring tabs on either side of the pins. You can find something thin and rigid to stick in there and just brute force it. I use a piece of 1/8" brass tubing that I expanded slightly just for this purpose that slides over the pins and compresses the tabs.

Are you looking for a Tamiya branded motor mount specifically?

Running in the snow is a tricky thing. There are so many types of snow that sometimes it is great fun and other times it is a miserable failure. A nice thin layer of rough, crispy, frozen snow seems to be the best. Decent traction and you ride on top. Light fluffy snow is useless, you just sink. Wet snow sticks to everything and weighs you down. I put homemade skis on the Sand Viper a long time ago and got video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2J5khb6USg I wish I had video of the Lunchbox running with RC airplane skis.

Nothing wrong with using the 1080. it is more expensive of course but has many adjustable settings. I know what you are talking about. I screwed mine together with the extra screws supplied in the kit. I think they left them out just so you could easily lift the rear cage by removing the two screws in the back. I don't see myself needing quick access and it just seems proper to have those extra screws in there.

Re-re TXT-1. I'll start holding my breath.

That seems to be part of the problem. It seems like an arbitrary measurement in the manual. I feel like the length of the shaft from the face of the mounting flange would be more useful. I have the slipper clutch in my BBX so maybe that allowed the stock pinion to fit, barely.

Soldering Deans (or Tee) connectors is a little difficult unless you have the proper equipment. You need a relatively powerful iron and a set of third hands is also helpful. If you use a weak iron you risk melting the plastic portion before the metal tabs get hot enough to melt the solder. Like soldering anything you need to flux and tin the wires and connector prior to actually soldering them together. The problem with Deans connectors is that they are a little tight to work with, especially the female battery ends. Tamiya (molex) connectors are actually a crimped connection. There is nothing wrong with using adapters. My main issue with them is the high prices. They are also bulky and create another failure point in your electrical system. One final note. My large fleet is all Deans connectors. If I were to convert all of them today I would use the now common XT60 connector.

Good to hear. My Dual Rider is a rocket ship with the sport tuned motor. Very fun watching it wiggle around as it fights for grip out of corners.

I am running a Superstock BZ with a HW1060. Thing will backflip on carpet with the stock pinion on 2S. The ESC cover fits with this setup and the pinion just barely fit. The only problem I have is the on-off switch wire being too short. I ended up just sticking it to the top of the ESC cover.

The only way to use the 27T pinion is to buy the alloy motor mount hop-up. The main problem I am having is that the pinion doesn't center very well on the motor shaft. I attribute this to the adapter sleeve that is needed for the 3mm bore of the pinion. The mesh is also very tight and sounds pretty nasty. The hop-up motor mount might solve the tight mesh issue. With the stock motor and press fit plastic pinion the mesh sounded perfectly smooth. Be careful with the external capacitors on the motor endbell. They are very easy to break if you flex the wires.

Just out of curiosity, why do you remove the shields? Is it to de-grease them or clean them or do you run them without shields inside gear boxes?

The plastic TT-02 dogbones seem better than the metal ones that the Manta Ray chassis had. Cheap metal with a plastic ball molded on the ends. Those things snap right at the cross pins.

That's all I can figure as well. It has to do with improving the injection molding process.

This is my main issue with the Blitzer chassis. With the kit supplied motor and pinion it is impossible to get the pinion set correctly. As you said the motor shafts on Tamiya closed end bell motors are way to short. This is an issue on other chassis as well, even the band new BBX. The best solution is to get a motor with a longer shaft. The kit supplied aluminum pinion is also a problem on almost every Tamiya vehicle being that it wears prematurely. I have run a Robinson Racing steel 13 tooth 32 pitch pinion for most of my Blitzers life on a black can motor. It still had the issue of the motor shaft being to short but I lived with it. In a quest to quiet down the gear box noise I recently replaced the 32 pitch pinion with an Arrma 0.8 mod 13 tooth steel pinion. Based on photos online I was hoping the pinion would be longer along it's axis and solve the short shaft problem. It helped a little but not much. The transmission is just as loud as ever too. As I mention I could just install a different motor with a longer shaft and solve this issue. I keep a spare set of Blitzer plastic gears on hand for the eventual failure. I will add though that I have not noticed any wear on the plastic spur gear in all the years of running, even though the pinion had only been contacting a portion of the spurs teeth. The damage to your spur gear is mostly a result of the worn out aluminum pinion.

Tamiya USA has an article on building the BBX. They used a 13.5T with a 27T pinion. They stated that it is the largest suggested pinion with the kit supplied spur. The spur is an industry standard style fortunately so one with fewer teeth could be fitted.

Thanks. It looks like Tamiya products are indeed eligible.

I sure like seeing a brown box sealed with Tamiya tape. I really want a roll of it.

Welcome. Those are some nice kits you have purchased. I don't think I have ever had a missing part in a Tamiya kit. My data set is approximately 50 kits. Whether or not they are shrink wrap sealed may depend on the local distributor I believe. It wouldn't hurt to take inventory though. The last pages of the instruction manual clearly illustrate the contents of each kit for reference.

My Type S Drift Spec is pretty sweet. I put 64 pitch gears in it so it at least sounds expensive. Flies with a Castle 4600 4-pole, stops on a dime. I don't have much to compare it to. My only other 1:10 on-road car is a TT-01E type R, which is also nice. The only thing it needs is the aluminum Type S steering bridge but I have trouble dropping that amount of cash. I have two other TT-02 unassembled that I purchased for the bodies mostly (Carrera RSR and '99 Impreza). I need to build one for rally driving. It is quite a versatile chassis. Not amazing at anything but can be modified like crazy. I have heard mixed reviews of the buggy setups.

That's what makes the promotion so useless and insulting to be honest. There is no tiers like the the coupons had. $20 coupon regardless of the order total. Add to that that it is a coupon for a future order which has time stipulations attached as well. Also, you cannot use more than one coupon per order so that is pretty lame if you have reward points to redeem.

Refreshingly it is steel.

My brother used the low profile Injora servo from Amazon as well. It fit with the hkit supplied spacers. It was the maximum size servo you could install. Works fine for him.

It's like they are going for a reverse Black Friday sale. They jack up the prices when people are shopping for the holidays. All I can hope is that this is temporary.