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About Turbojoe

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  • Birthday 06/09/1956

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    Mesa, Arizona USA
  1. Glad it worked for you. I use it religiously on every nut and bolt on my helicopters. You don't need much. Just enough to wet the threads. Too much and it just makes a mess. A small tube should last for years on small items like our cars and helicopters. NEVER use the RED Loctite if you hope to ever get it apart again!!! Joe
  2. If you raced a Scorpion in the early 80's (like I did) or are now collecting them (like I do) I'm certain you've run into the dreaded broken roll cage syndrome. To have a pristine used one is damned lucky! I've been lucky on two of my cars but a third had one broken right at the junction with the aluminum roof top. I knew if I could find a usable plastic adhesive it could be put back in to service. At least the clips were still good and that's VERY unusual! The problem is finding something that actually WORKS on plastic! After some internet searching for products that were available locally I settled on trying two Loctite brand adhesives. After I had drilled a .061 hole in as close to center of both broken pieces as I could I cut a 1 inch .047 piece of music wire to use as internal reinforcement. The first test was with Loctite brand "Plastic Bonder" #661 for "all" plastics. This stuff is absolute GARBAGE as far as I'm concerned! It has a "primer" and a minuscule amount of CA adhesive in the package. As I suspected for a CA adhesive it completely sucked on a part that would need to be able to handle some torsional stress. It fell apart as soon as I flexed it in the smallest degree. It may work for plastic items that will never be touched again but that doesn't help me. I soaked the parts in acetone to remove all traces of the product and prep it for the next test...... Next I tried Loctite brand "Plastic Bonder EPOXY" #517. This stuff actually works. And works extremely well! I mixed up a small amount and waited about 10 minutes before applying. (Mine must have been old stock as it said 20 minutes set time rather than 7 minutes in the new product info). I clamped it together and let it set overnight. I grabbed it today and flexed it to the point I thought either the repair or the plastic itself was close to the breaking point. It held perfectly! I'm more than a little impressed with this product! Had I done a better job of adhesive application and filling the repair area it would be completely transparent! To say I'm happy would be an understatement! With the SC-33 etc. roll cages going for $35.00+ USD on e-bay I like finding a way to repair broken "tube" sections on roll cages. I have several roll cage sides that have broken clips. I don't have the pieces that broke off so can't try to reattach them. I seriously doubt that such a thin item as the clip can be successfully reattached using any method. If your clips are broken then I'm afraid you're prey for the guys that are getting top dollar on the free market. If you just have a broken tube then try what worked so well for me. Hopefully you'll have the same success! Joe
  3. I have a bottle of the Alclad. From what I've read it doesn't hold up well at all like you mentioned. I'm not really looking to hide anything. Basically just need to smooth the outer lip of a few wheels where they always get chewed up. I found THIS place while surfing around. If I was going to keep the cars I think I'd send them one to see if they can duplicate the original satin look. Prices look reasonable. Joe
  4. I see quite a few views of this thread already. Maybe I'm not the only one with this issue? I'm really looking forward to any help at all in this area. Please post up your thoughts. Joe
  5. I had a discussion about this with someone on a forum (not sure which) a few years back. They were going to try a few different products to hopefully find something acceptable. I don't remember who it was so don't know what he found if anything. I'm wondering if anyone else has found something that works well for touch up on these wheels. I just brought out my cars again and I'm going to be getting them touched up in preparation for sale. Most of my wheels look pretty good but as usual there are some areas where the plating has come off. I do have some new wheels but they are worth much more money still in the bag. I'd love to hear what others have tried that didn't look too bad. I haven't touched my cars in a few years so I'm hoping something new and special is on the market now that will work well. Joe
  6. I realize this is an old thread but has anyone found any new methods of Scorpion/Tomahawk wheel restoration? I have several wheels that could use a little touch up. Joe
  7. As the title says I need a few parts. Specifically a Tomahawk body. New or re-paintable would be OK. I could also use a Tomahawk specific SC-1 front bumper, a Tomahawk specific SC-77 battery holder and a Tomahawk specific SC-118 rear body hook. Body parts such as mufflers, lights, mirrors, side nets etc. I'm also open to just about any Scorpion/Beetle/Tomahawk parts you may have for a REALISTIC price as I have a few other Scorpions/Turbo Scorpions. Thanks, Joe
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