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Everything posted by VinceVegaUK

  1. Hay All, I plan to start racing my DB01 again soon but will probably wait to see what Tyres the locals use before i invest. In the mean time can anybody recommend some good all purpose Tyres, and what size do i need? I guess i will need some new foam inserts too!? I will be mostly running on Tarmac that has a loose stones and the odd dusty patch but may venture to gravel and hard compacted dirt and short grass. I cant actually believe that im still running on bald stock tires, but oddly enough on clean tarmac/concreate paving the act like grippy slicks since the rubber is so soft. Something that will last a bit too im running a 5.5 brushless with 20c lipos and it goes like stink! Thanks VV p.s Any one know where i can get a bumper too!?
  2. +1 Yep Terry told me to do this for my F1 car and works a treat! :-) he even witnessed me beating him with my N. Rosberg - Williams F109! :-p Later VV
  3. Hay Check out my post on a similar thread here CLICK HERE TBH the best thing you can do to ya TT01 to get max fun is! First upgrades should be Ball Race it (ball bearings all around) CVA oil filled dampers Alloy Drive shaft steel pinion Then the electrics, thats up to you! but bang for buck i would recommend these 13t (turn) EzRun brushless combo set Inc 35amp ESC and programme card about £40 inc delivery Yeah Racing 20c Lipos 3200 or higher but these are a good set for about £30 for 2 iMax B6 Charger Lipo & NiMh, NiCad chaarger about £30 with 12v mains adapter All can be found easily on the internet or ebay I would recommend Vellrip Dinball/RcMart Tony's Tamiya Parts or general search the items Once you have the brushless set, the charger and the lipos you will be all set up for any future RC purchases and you will get maximum fun out of your RC's ;-) Also i would recommend cutting off the **** Tamiya style battery connectors and soldering on some Deans on the ESC and battery connectors to give better current flow and better performance for hardly any $$$ Hope this helps if you need any tips give me a shout. Later VV
  4. Yep i concur and Kimbrough are way better than the tamiya high tourque. I run hitec and kimbrough on all my race cars later VV
  5. Nice thread this got me thinking! What if you spray the inside of the shell silver and the outside of the shell the colour, then when you do scratch it you will reveal the colour on the inside? I have hover sprayed a translucent red then backed it with gold which came out really nice, i will try and find a pic when i can. Later VV
  6. Hay Not sure about online paint but ModelZone in the Trafford Centre has loads of Tamiya spray cans for Lexan at about £5 a can. They also have loads of tamiya acrylics which are good for doing details with. Later VV
  7. Oh annnnnd! Dose this kit come with a light kit? If so :-) Get a solder iron set (or buy a cheap one from maplins) get some Brilliant Blue 5mm LEDS (x4) and two bic biros and some wire! Then solder the wires up stick two LEDs in either end of the empty biro case and back half with foil using clear double tape, and same for the other side. attach to the prongs on the light kit and tape to the inside of the shell = underfloor neons!!!!!!!! :-p I also got 3mm flashing brilliant blue LEDs for the front :-)
  8. Hay Welcome, Like ya TT01, TBH i wouldn't upgrade the TT01 one tooooo much, it's a little limited in high end performance but a great 1st car to get into the hobby and can compete well enough on a basic level. I maxed mine out racing it against the big boys but in the end bought a TA05 to race and run my TT01 as a car park basher and drifter which i love :-) The main things i would get are: Ballrace Bearings all around. Check there are bearings all around, unless you have the TT01 D (drift) or TT01 R version i dont think its ball raced. Aluminium Driveshaft as the plastic one flexes all over Oil Dampers (you can just buy the cheap CVA damper set) Steel Pinion 21/20t pinion set You could go all out on the other options but these are great start ups, to get the other stuff starts changing drive train parts and other pieces and it gets more $$$ for not much gain although the alloy steering assembly is a good choice also. Also if you havent got a fast charger yet and would like it to go a little quicker i would recommend these AFTER buying the above options These can all be found quite cheep on ebay iMax B6 charger + 12v mains adapter x2 Battery Pack Yeah Racing 3200 20c LiPos (with lipo bag) 13t EZrun motor combo with 35amp ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) For parts If your in the UK i would recommend Vellrip (ebay & online) Tony Tamiya Parts (ebay) Dinball / RC Mart (ebay / online) All can be found online or as an ebay store. If you need any help give me a shout! Later VV P.s Ooo and a tip to keep all you screws/plastic holding up! Dont forget Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosy! When screwing back in a screw, gently screw it lefty until you feel it drop into the thread then gently guide it righty into the thread and dont over tighten. If you dont do this when taking apart & building you will eventually end up with a little spiral of plastic around the screw and no thread for the screw to grip, dont stress though spare parts trees a quite cheap.
  9. NOTE: PLEASE Verify this before you action!!!!!!!! I recall a similar question being asked and i believe my good friend Qatmix said mild warm soapy water and a hair drier works. Clean the shell and the underside of the sticker with the water in a spray bottle then hair dry back down!? send Qatmix a PM Later VV I did a search and found his tip but still, send him a PM
  10. A pair of pliers or clamp (or tape a pair of pliers to an old plate or work bench) Solder (good solder usually with lead but you can do it with lead free) Hot Solder Iron (cheap ones from Maplins for about £15 will do) Cut the tamiya plug off and strip bear the wire coating about 5 to 10mm and twist the end so its neat Tip the iron with a bit of solder and heat the bare wire with the Iron tip (hold wire with pliers or clamp as the wire will get hot) Touch the solder on to the wire while still applying heat with the iron, but dont melt the solder on the iron the heat within the wire should melt into it. This is called tinning. Once you see a blob of solder soak into the twisted fiber of the wires remove heat and solder and allow to cool, dont blow at it or breath in the smoke. Do this for the other wire then on to attaching to the deans! You kind of do the same to the deans, heat the deans tab up and then melt solder on to it using the heat within the tab not the iron. you can touch the iron on one side and hold the solder on the other until it melts or same side is fine. Then while the deans tab is still hot heat the tinned wire end up with the iron tip and at the same time touch the wire and iron to the connector. All should blob together, remove iron and hold wire to tab for a few moment until the solder cools and goes hard. if you have octopus hands you can add a little extra solder when at this stage to create a neat blob. Done! I make it sound easy and practice makes perfect, just carfull not burn your self and dont stress if you get it wrong, trim the wire and start again with a new deans. I just did a quick search and found this which is pritty much what i just wrote NOTE! Before you solder the wire on to the deans slip over a bit of shrink tubing over the wire and push it down to the end out the way of heat, once all soldered, slip up the shrink tubing and heat to shrink with a hot hair dryer or just hover the iron close to it and the radiating heat will do it but dont touch it to the iron it will just melt it, or a match/lighter flame
  11. I had the little grub screw fall out on my UJ's on the front that gave me 3 wheel drive and it pulled left! I also had the same grub screw come half out and wedge in the diff cup. Also try rebuilding the diff and check all that spins, spins smoothly and non of any of the drive train dependent bearings are sticking. also check the centre pulleys are fit correctly and the belts are running well on them. Hope you figure it out. l Oh and a common mistake is mounting some of the parts the wrong way around causing tie rods and ball ends near the wheels to rub on the rim. Later VV
  12. Have you tried adjusting the trim to neutral the ESC can be a bit funny with brake and reverse initiation if not set properly, it shouldn't do that!!!!!!!! I run a 5.5t in my Durga and i can tap the brakes repeatedly with no need to go to throttle.
  13. Yea i ran a 13t EZrun 25A in my 3Racing f109 F1, its quick but not gear tearing quick. I would recommend the 35A ESC it seams a little more robust, i ran it on a small and tight track and with sticky tires it would stick so should be no problem in anything. My friend put his in his Wild Willy :-)
  14. +1 I also take a box of spares and screws, washers, spacers, weights, etc. Between friends some one always has the bit you dont and we all keep on racing :-) Oh and some Duck tape, glass tape, and automotive tape (slimier to double sided black foam servo tape)
  15. you mean like this? Tamiya PS16 backed with silver i think it was PS12 or 41 Later VV
  16. Hay, Seriously don't be afraid to open the thing up and explore the parts and see how its built. As posted previously i have given you a link to the manual. I love my TA05 but bought it second hand from a friend. I felt the same at first and didn't know where to start. TBH the TA05 has a simple, effective and strong drive train. It doesn't take much to take it apart and rebuild, and if done clean and precisely it will hold up for a very long time before it needs any further TLC. So grab the bull buy the horns and dive straight in, its all part of the hobby. Just get a good screw driver with a good fitting head, and carefully screw off all the bits. upon re-tightening just tighten until firm and stable and the chassis will hold together well. If you require to re build the diff the parts you need are listed in the manual. CLICK HERE I would recommended taking the diff apart! In doing this you can see if any parts could be broken, here are a list of possible reasons. The thrust bearing is broken/cracked and won't move freely causing the diff to tighten and loosen when rotating and wont work properly. Small Diff nut holder is worn and the nut slips inside it when you try and tighten it, so the diff never gets tight enough. Diff nut is worn IE the fine plastic seal inside the thread wont hold the nut on tightly. (you can use thread lock here or get a new nut) Spool is damaged!? all holes should look correct and not worn/melted/oval. All bearings should sit easily in each hole (the bearings almost click/pop into place if sitting correctly) Get a clean worktop/table with some elbow room Roll out a towel to lay down your car and parts get your tools out open up the diff by removing the bulkhead cover pull the diff out and un loop it from the belt get a 1.5mm hex and from the short side and unscrew. you now should have a sum of parts Diff cups x2 Diff Plates x2 Diff Bolt x1 Diff Nut x1 Diff nut holder x1 Diff Spring x1 Diff Thrust bearing x1 Diff spool x1 Diff balls x8 Diff inner bearings x2 (small) Diff outer bearings x2 (large) Diff housing adjuster inner and outer with adjustment teeth x2 (total 4 pieces) Clean all the parts with a wipe of a kitchen towel and or cotton bud. (I sometimes use a degreaser rinse with water and allow to dry but if you do, do it in a small plastic bowl so as not to lose parts down the sink!) Carefully re assemble and grease the plates and balls with diff grease. Once re-assembled you need to do the tight test! Place two thin non sharp objects into the slots of the diff cups. With one hand try and hold the two objects so as to keep the diff cups still and with the other hand rotate the spool. If the spool slips its too loose so tighten the diff bolt with the 1.5mm hex approx 1/4 turn and try again. Step and repeat until its very hard if not imposable to rotate the spool by hand when holding the diff cups (using objects in the diff slots (see manual diagram)) If you do this right your diff should work perfectly, and no need to over tighten the hex bolt. You should be able to to rotate the diff cups on either side in opposite directions with your hand and it should feel fairly smooth (a little rumble from the bearings is normal). If you need any help post on here or PM me Thanks VV
  17. I Run a DB01 Durga and came across the same problem and Question. After some research and reading all the horror stories of peoples diffs coming loose and finding balls melting through the spools i wanted to get my build right first time. my Durga runs with a 5.5 EZ run so its drive train gets some punishment and still holds up today after some serious racing and bashing. I used Unibond Extreme Glue. Don't USE Super Glue! it will degrade with the ball diff oil and as its very brittle and eventually will come loose and then you will melt your diff. To add adhesion i gently sanded the plastic and put a few score marks with a model knife before gluing. Then apply a liberal but thin coat to the plastic on your diff plate assembly. Allow it to dry briefly (5/10 seconds) and carefully place the metal diff ring on it and rub your finger around the edge join. Make sure the main contact area of the diff plate is clean. Do this for all for plates and allow to dry over night. Once cured build diff as per manual and all should be good. You may need to tighten your diff once or twice after a few runs but after that it should stay hooked up for a long time to come Hope this helps Any Qs give me a shout Later VV
  18. Not bad TBH if you can afford it i would buy it, Stock DB01s are pricey and this one has all the hop ups and some! If he has run it on the stock tires they still have tread on it too! not always a sign of low use. get some cheep Lipos and an EZ Run 9.5t with 60A ESC and it will FLY!
  19. yep sounds like the front ball diff is loose! just do what Qatmix says. Its a bit fiddly on the front, its best to take the wheel off and pop off the steering rod and camber rod and pull out the wishbone on the short side (look from above on your diff and you can see the belt is off set to the right on the front and to the left on the rear, in line with the two belts and two center pulleys for each belt, the short side has the small 1.5mm hex nut head, and thrust bearing. The long side holds the tension spring, nut holder & nut) tighten it until it feels firm, don't over tighten it! Or pop the whole bulk head cover off and have a loog at the diff assembly in detail and check all is ok! If you haven't got the manual you can down load it here as a PDF (view page 4). CLICK HERE Since you have just got the TA05 built the best way to understand it and get used to it is to get your hands dirty. Things loosen or break over time, or you break it your self by accident but its all replaceable and repairable it the whole part of the R/C hobby. Any further help just shout on here there is always some one who knows about something. Happy R/Cing Later V
  20. Great I have an imax b6 and its great, i use it for everything, my old NiMh my Yeah Racing 3200 20c lipos (x2 for £40) and my micro helicopter sigle cell lipo. I race and bash with my DB01, race my TA05, drift my TT01 and have stuped fun with my VLB. A great charger for the price, i have had no problems with it and its small and compact and does everything you need. happy RCing
  21. YEA! i was going to say yellow too!, and you can use coachline tape to give shut lines details and spliters :-)
  22. If you have tried this then the only other thing is to email Hobbywing. I too had no reverse and setting the trim a little back worked. this happend on both my 9t and my 5.5t set with a 30 and 60ma ESC, Later VV
  23. Tip: Put a pop sock (small foot sized stocking) over your motor and fix it with a zip tie or elastic band, motor still stays cool and you can vent the holes but stop rubbish getting in, works great for bashing in sand and gravel, i do this for my Lunch Box. Later VV
  24. So have you tried what i said and adjusted the trim?
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