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sosidge

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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. If that is the same style of receiver you already have, then yes. If it's a different style of receiver then the answer is "maybe".
  2. Good analogy. The great thing about the RC hobby is that it can be whatever you want to be. The people on Tamiyaclub are (mostly) the people who love the "art and the lore", and there is also a huge community of racers out there - even if you aren't winning, there is always the element of competing against yourself, or just enjoying the experience of being on a track. I haven't heard much from the off-road racing community complaining about the lack of a scale class (we do have closer to scale classes in on-road). Last scale class was Short Course trucks but they were always more popular in the US than in the UK. And lets be honest, buggies stopped looking scale in the mid 80s - vintage racers may love the era of the Avante but it looks nothing like a real vehicle! And it has to be said that the modern buggies are so much easier to drive. Mandating a solid rear axle (for example) may sound like a nice idea, but the cars just don't handle very well. If the racers want a back-to-basics class, it would start happening organically. No need to force it. Vintage racing is increasingly popular, and there are enough re-releases out there that you can keep the cars well maintained. Combined with modern tyres, electronics and hop-ups, it's effectively modern racing with a less developed car design (although when you see the customisations some people do to their vintage cars you realise it is a very uneven playing field compared to modern buggies where you can buy a competitive car off the shelf).
  3. Interesting reading. I've been out at the track myself this weekend and sub-5 degree track temps are a challenge! Wind chill on your face is also a challenge! Interesting that the softer Sweeps didn't work. The 34 is an unusual tyre, a special one for the BRCA - who knows how different the compound actually is from the others? Sweep have done a lot of different tyres over the years. Also shows just how good the old Sorex tyres were. Shame they are no longer made - I believe in part because one of the materials they used is very difficult to obtain now. Which is why we've had a lot of attempts at building a tyre as good as the Sorex but none have quite hit the mark in my opinion. Radio is the easiest way to calm down the steering so you're doing the right thing. You should have a small amount of toe-out on the front end and also a thick front diff helps. But you are probably mostly feeling the lack of rear grip which is making the whole car nervous. I'd consider going to the same springs all round, or only one step difference, when the rear is much softer you can get some unusual behaviour at the limit, which might be making the soft tyres appear worse than they actually are. Looks like your local track is Broxtowe? Very entertaining track but I've never had great success there. Last time I was there for the Iconics I was using the Sweep 34s all round, that was in September so probably a lot warmer than it is now.
  4. Often the problem with the 51000 is that people mis-assemble them or overtighten them. Once you've done that, the plastic gets damaged and the slop starts. Fundamentally they are a decent servo saver.
  5. You could use the other holes on the steering uprights but it looks like you are close to hitting the shocks anyway?
  6. The slipper clutch will definitely help. It should be set to slip instead of the diff. However ball diffs are temperamental at the best of times. I dread to think what 3s would do, even if everything was set up perfectly .
  7. There is a longer thread on the Lunchbox Mini in General discussions which might be helpful. For the upper links, I did a lot of experimentation and settled on having the rears toed in by a couple of mm. I can't remember whether this was the manual setting or something else. If you have too much or too little toe, the wheelie steering just doesn't work. I have a LiPo in mine and I also experimented with extra ballast in the battery compartment, it does wheelie better with more weight up there. But we actually enjoy it more as a bouncy mini trail truck than a wheelie machine. I haven't done anything else on setup (there aren't exactly many options!). If your car is spearing off in one direction, check the driveshafts. The metal part can spin loose from the plastic joint really easily , so I've glued mine and now they are much more reliable.
  8. If that body is designed for the VTA race series, there is actually a specific wheel/tyre combo they are using - https://www.racepf.com/vta/ I don't race the class and I don't know if that Bluegroove body strictly fits the dimensions (normally they just do copies of old bodyshells), but it might help. http://www.usvintagetransam.com/index.html
  9. To be honest you don't need either the ceramic of molybdenum greases on the M-07 build. The diff is silicone oil filled, and there will be some leakage - within a few runs, the whole gearbox will have a nice coating! CVDs are better oiled. Grease tends to attract dust and dirt and cause more wear at the end of the day. If you do use the grease, wipe the outside of the cvd clean afterwards.
  10. Like you say, the cars are so different. I honestly think you should get the one that jumps out in front of your eyes and screams "fun". I think you know which one that is. Only thing I would say about your list is that a lot of the older cars won't fit a square LiPo. I'm pretty sure the Hornet won't accept them.
  11. Also bear in mind that the Titan is a 550 motor, which rev lower. So although a 12t 540 would rev very high, a 12t 550 is not any higher in rpm than the 27t Tamiya silver can motor. But the Titan is more powerful. Which leads onto the differences in drivetrain and weight. And also to the same conclusion that if you want much higher performance, you'll have to go brushless!
  12. There's a couple of important differences between the RC battery and the battery in the Dyson. 1. It's probably a Li-ion battery rather than a LiPo so will be a bit more robust (and cheaper) for consumer use. 2. Consumer devices have the charger built in, where as RC batteries don't. If the Dyson needs a 26V input I suspect it has a 6s Lithium battery. 12V alone is much too low to even start the charge on one of these, let along add anything useful. Which makes me think that the Dyson has a built in transformer that allows it to charge from an under-volted power supply. Unless what you thought was 30 minutes charge was just 30 minutes being plugged in with hardly any difference made in practice. The difference is amp rating won't affect things. The Dyson's in-built charger will pull the amps (or more likely watts) that it needs. Considering the original power supply is rated at around 20W, and on the assumption it has a transformer that can deal with lower voltage supplies, you only need the amps to be inversely proportional to the voltage. My new ISDT charger can handle a DC input between 10 and 34V for example. And it can charge up to 6s.
  13. It won't be the voltage, it will be the amperage. But every chance that a dodgy servo could damage the BEC circuit. Especially with those Chinese junk servos, you're taking a chance with them every time you buy one. Even if they aren't dodgy, they could just be hugely inefficient and have high power demands.
  14. Usually wheels with a bigger offset (6mm offset is quite common), it's hard to get a wide hex solution that really works because you run out of threaded axle (although I "think" a TT-02 might be compatible with the extra long axles that are sometimes included in a TT-01). Also a bit of willingness to experiment helps! If you share what body you want, you might find that another Tamiyaclub member has already fitted it.
  15. Tamiya did make a stabilizer (swaybar/anti-roll bar) set for the TL-01 (#53324) but obviously long since out of production and hard to find. Anti-roll bars are a tuning option rather than something that would be guaranteed to bring an improvement. Bending the wire is one thing but to be honest working out how to mount them effectively (and finding/creating the parts to do it) is as much of a challenge. Plenty of Tamiya cars over the years have had bars that were mostly for decoration because they had so much free play in them.
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