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sosidge

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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. Pressure in these diffs is set with the spring washers. Effectively they are not adjustable. The bolt should be fully tightened (take care not to overdo it as the pressure plates are aluminium and prone to stripping).
  2. That's the side of the box though, with the paper insert that shows the contents. Usually Pro kits come with a nicely printed box that can be re-used as a car carrier. In fact this pic shows what you are actually getting - looks pretty good to me:
  3. Normally you use black behind a translucent silver. Brings out the depth of the metallic.
  4. What are the charger settings? I would watch the display as the battery charges. If the charger is set to 8.4V cutoff, what you should see is the voltage reaching 8.4 and then the current slowly declining to 0A. Obviously after the battery has finished charging the voltage will drop a little so make sure any judgements you are making are based on the battery as it charges rather than a battery that has finished charging an hour earlier.
  5. These vehicles don't need a LiPo battery - we ran 4wd cars and trucks on NiCd/NiMH for decades before LiPo came along. But you can only get out what you put in. A NiMH is a low-performance battery.
  6. If you are in a remote location I don't imagine you will get huge numbers of people. So just focus on laying out a track that people can get around easily enough and have fun. Choose the classes of car that are allowed sensibly based on the space available. It will grow from there if people are interested. Proper timing equipment is serious money and unless you have some benefactors that are willing to subsidise it at first it's probably not worth buying until you have proven that there is interest.
  7. Lipo is superior in every way. No racer is using NiMH, no basher is using NiMH, no crawler is using NiMH, no flyer is using NiMH. Tamiyaclub is the last remaining bastion of people that actually take NiMH seriously. The tech was obsolete 10 years ago. (cue all the posts talking about how dangerous Lipo is when people have a LiPo battery in their pocket (phone), on their wrist (smartwatch), and in the laptop that they are typing on right now).
  8. Changing pinion is much lower on the list of priorities for a crawler compared to a "fast" rc car. You'll find that the kit gearing in the Element (18T pinion I think, I have one) is perfectly fine. Normally people select a motor and battery as a way of tuning performance. I tend to aim for "fast walking speed" as the top end on a crawler, with an Enduro I get that with a 3s battery and a motor around 1800KV. The Fusion SE recommendation above is really good. They are the same price as a 1080 and a decent brushed motor, but all-in-one and maintenance free with great low speed control and drag brake. I still run a brushed setup in one of my trucks for space reasons, there is nothing wrong with brushed, but brushless is probably slightly better overall. By the way, changing bodies on crawlers is not as straightforward as it is on something like a touring car. Realistically the body and the chassis end up being built up to suit one another, and the body painting project becomes a detailing project and an accessories project and a wheels/tyres project as well. I wasted a lot of time and money building up a crawler from a kit and I would actually recommend buying an RTR as they are much better value, the bodies tend to be better and you still have plenty of scope for upgrading, repairing and personalising it. It's really an RTR market, kits are a rarity in the mainstream.
  9. Kyosho making good use of the old ZX-5 tooling to release a retro brother to the Dirt Master 2wd (which is RB-5 based).
  10. 1. These diffs are easy to strip. It's strong, coarse screw going into a soft aluminium diff plate. When they bottom out, you have to stop tightening them. So take it apart full and see if the screw will actually tighten in the diff half when the other parts are not mounted on it. 2. You need to find the missing washer otherwise the diff will slip all the time. These diffs don't work like other diffs, the spring washers set the tension, not the tightness of the screw.
  11. There have been many one-way solutions over the years, driveshafts, layshafts, diffs, clickers... They all have the same general effect to greater or lesser degrees.
  12. Feel like I need to step in a correct the (unintentional) misinformation here, as that is absolutely not how a one-way works in an RC car. Yes, one-ways disengage the front axle. No, they do not add grip in low-traction conditions. A one-way would be used on a high grip surface to generate more steering. The main downside is that you lose front braking so the car is liable to spin out on the brakes. They were common until the 00s but are rarely used now. A fixed drive or a centre diff is much easier to drive, especially with the power available now. Now in the example of full-size cars, you will find some 4wd cars that used a system that is similar to a one-way diff. One example is the VW "Haldex" system. But that works on a different principle, adding drive to the rear axle when there is a loss of traction on the front (difference in wheel speed between front and rear). So you have a "well balanced" FWD car that has 4wd when you need it. In the RC setup, you have a "well balanced" 4wd car that becomes RWD in certain conditions. Not so useful.
  13. I would invest in the Tamiya thinner as for the sake of a small amount of money it is not worth taking the risk with pure alcohol. I would not use water to thin Tamiya acrylics. Personally I think the Tamiya acrylics are usually a little thick for brush painting so I would thin them. The retarder is an option but I would say it is not as necessary after you have thinned the paints. Tamiya's basic brushes are excellent, better than some of the premium brushes I have. Otherwise your list looks good. Only advice, as with all painting, is keeping things clean and taking your time.
  14. Hitec use a 24T spline. Tamiya do not support this. Which may be why the previous owner bodged it. I hope the replacement servo you ordered is not a Hitec. Most brands use a 25T spline, some use a 23T, both of which are supported by Tamiya.
  15. Another disappointing toy from Tamiya. Imagine what they could do if they really set their mind to doing an RC Ford panel van. Instead you just get an unlicensed lexan blob on a cheap chassis that is neither scale nor high performance. The Midnight Pumpkin was a "better" release when it came out 35 years ago! Seriously Tamiya, make a bit of an effort. Build a decent chassis for the scale of the body, fit well-proportioned wheels, and make the effort to get the licensing to put the correct badges on it. Even the Chinese brands are doing a better job now. Look at the trucks that FMS are putting on the market.
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