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sosidge

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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. Fully charged batteries? Aside from that, best test is to swap with known-good equipment. So you could do a swap from your CRV and see if the problem persists.
  2. Pics are from before I fitted the connectors. I've run with the settings from the instruction sheet and many adjustments either way. Less toe and it won't wheely-steer, more toe and the wheely-steer is better but you get other issues where it won't run happily on four wheels! Thanks, more or less my impression.
  3. What are people's thoughts on the upper arm connectors? I've had them in the car today, and I'm a bit disappointed. You don't get much steering control over wheelies, and in return, the truck becomes more unstable if it does pop an unexpected wheely. Tried lots of toe adjustments, but not really happy with any of them. Think I might take the connectors off. Truck was a bit easier to enjoy without them.
  4. Super-short dampers are even shorter than M-chassis dampers. This new set appears to be the existing 42291 set with the new plastic ball ends.
  5. Just thought I'd share an update on where I've ended up with the electrics for this after my earlier headaches... Ended up going for a 7.4v 850mAh Turnigy NanoTech LiPo pack. Less than a tenner posted from a UK eBay seller. Paired with a Hobbywing 1625 and Futaba servo and receiver. Now I was a bit concerned that the pack would be too small but we've been out with it twice this week, and today it must have been going for over an hour before running out of puff. Speed-wise, this set up is not as fast as I feared it would be. Wheelies with ease and is about twice walking pace flat out. Makes for a fun truck on loose paths or smooth grass. Can't cope with any big rocks but it's fun to watch it bounce around as it tries. It's a strange little truck but a lot of fun. Handles suprisingly well (the counter-rolling suspension geometry might help here). Making the wheel alignment a bit more sensible also helped (kit settings had huge toe angles). Biggest negative for me so far has been the driveshafts which loosened off on the first run. I've used some medium CA to bind the metal to the plastic and it has held up so far, a thicker epoxy might be even better. I've also lost one of the safety clips on the bottom of the steering hubs, but the hub hasn't fallen out yet. The other parts of the car that I consider to be a fragile design haven't broken yet! So what do I know...
  6. But a Lunchbox is a hard body (probably styrene of some sort) that you paint on the outside. The MX5 shell is a polycarbonate one that you paint from the inside.
  7. Has anyone actually used full-scale automotive paint on a polycarbonate body? I have no idea if it would work. Most "pro" RC body painters are using water-based acrylics now. They should be easy to mix if you can't find the colour you want, although mixing is not a precise science! In the UK, the easiest brand to get right now seems to be Hobbynox, but I've got a hunch that most of the paints are made by Createx.
  8. That's really interesting, I didn't realise Mabuchi were manufacturing endbells with different advance for different motors, I'll have to take a closer look at that the next time I have a Sport Tuned in my hands.
  9. For masking the inside of a windscreen, I would mask the screen just over the edges and then use a sharp knife to make a clean cut along the edge. But only enough to cut the tape because if you score the body too deeply it will split.
  10. Short answer, no, they aren't good for grip racing, CS (countersteer) drift is an extreme setup that only works on drift tyres, and only works if you want the rear of the car to be sideways all the time. You might be able to fit the chassis with a grip drivetrain, but there are probably a bunch of other suspension and steering changes on it as well. So, buy it if you like it, but don't expect it to work with "grip" tyres.
  11. Because of the way that a sealed can motor mounts the brushes (pivoting in an arc rather than sliding in a straight line), as it breaks in, the "forward direction" gains RPM while the backwards direction loses it. So this is normal behaviour of a broken-in motor. The Sport Tuned doesn't have any advance in it - or at least no more advance than any other sealed can motor. The brushes are in-line with the centre of the magnets on a new motor. You can see this just by looking at a new motor through the vents. So you can run them in a reverse-rotation setup if you want. (Source: I stripped down the motor in the blog post earlier)
  12. So I'm going to confess that I took a bit of a wrong turn in buying electrics for the kit and it's becoming a bit of a challenge to just get this thing to run! Perhaps this is why the UK stock has been available at a massive discount recently? It just isn't an easy car to get running unless you buy a "deal" on day one. For what it's worth: - Hobbywing 1625 won't run off 4-cell NiMH (5 cell minimum). Also comes with a "Mini Tamiya" plug. Oh, and airsoft use these plugs with REVERSE polarity (don't ask). - Currently no UK stock (that I can see) of a dedicated LiPo. - Very limited range of brushed speedos available from reputable manufacturers, so hard to know whether a different ESC would actually work on 4-cell or not!
  13. Is it just me or is this a pretty tricky build for something that seems to be aimed at young/beginner users?
  14. Have to say I find this whole battery/ESC malarkey a bit of a headscratcher. I'm surprised there are so few direct replacement battery packs out there for the (hard to find and overpriced) Tamiya LF pack. And I don't really want a loose-fitting soft-cased Lipo pack in there. And then you have the ESC issue where Tamiya's own ESCs have a LiFe cutoff rather than a LiPo one! Might go down the route of 4x NiMH AA's in the holder and a Hobbywing 1625 to start with. But why no battery holder in the box Tamiya? And why is it such an expensive spare part? The car looks so "cool" though. Probably only usable on a flat surface, but steering wheelies (after option parts)...
  15. It depends on your perspective of technically interesting. Most modern race kits are exceptionally refined. So if you appreciate that refinement, precision and adjustability, then you will enjoy the build - but really they are built to be raced rather than displayed. Broadly speaking they are straightforward to build as a result of that refinement. If you look at the older kits, what I personally find technically interesting about them is the rawness of the engineering - many of those older cars came from an era where the hobby was experimenting with a lot of ideas, most of which were cast aside over time due to the level of complexity and the impact on reliability. The Avante is probably the archetypal example of this from RC buggy history. Tamiya used their huge resources to build a revolutionary car for racing. The car was innovative, unique, complicated and a total failure - it swiftly developed into the much simpler Egress and the Egress was then replaced by the Manta Ray that you already mentioned (which was even simpler yet faster straight away). I would be wary of the modern non-race buggy kits as you will find that the parts quality suffers and they are not quite as satisfying to build.
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