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sosidge

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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. Hobbywing 1625 is a possibility. Proper manufacturer with UK support. LiPO or NiMH cutoff.
  2. I have one of the HG P402 crawlers which has been really good for mucking about in the garden and on the "trails" (i.e. UK woodland paths). I got it pretty cheap from one of the big HK sellers. I could list a number of flaws with it but apart from the original servo dying instantly and the low-speed gear stripping after quite a lot of rough use, I can't really knock if for the price. My 12 year old son drives it full throttle into everything. Since it sounds you are in the UK, FTX do a few notably inexpensive 1/10th crawlers. No idea what they are actually like but you should get a decent bit of support since they are sold in actual shops and supplied by one of the big UK distributors. Go up to about £300 and you can get an RTR crawler from one of the named brands e.g. Element RC Trailwalker. I've just built up the Element RC kit and I've got no concerns about the quality (haven't had the chance to run it yet though).
  3. They're essential as the FF-02 is much wider than a mini.
  4. Well I know that a lot of painters use liquid mask now but TD Takashima has been in the game a long time and liquid mask wasn't an option back then. He gets pretty good results with tape...
  5. If anyone is interested, the man that does Satoshi Maezumi's shells has posted a few tutorials on Youtube. Might help to understand how he does it. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiQ1EVOun-sWcpYRFV6Nrkg
  6. If you decant the TS, you shouldn't need to thin it any more, which might be why you don't like the coverage. LP pots are the same paint type as TS but do need thinning. When I use them (on 1:24 models) I do roughly 1:1 paint to retarder thinner. Slightly different colour range though. Bigger needle might give you the coverage you want. I do think that 1/10th bodies are a difficult size for coverage. Too big for an airbrush, too small for a spraygun. TS cans are quicker but I agree than the airbrush is nicer to use. There are a couple of spraygun-style airbushes out there but I have never used one and they are far from cheap.
  7. racecraftrc.co.uk had them, can't see them on their site but they might have them on the shelf if you get in touch
  8. I've been watching the various UK shops posting lists of the new stock they are getting and it really surprises me to see the things that are coming in. Buggies like the Zahhak and Dark Impact are still available despite being many years old and having questionable desirability. Whether this is because of new production runs by Tamiya or the discovery of a few old pallets at the Hobby Company, I don't know. To get a definitive list of what is in production will be basically impossible as Tamiya do not publish this to the public. In the RC world you quickly learn to buy the stuff you want while it is on the shelf, because once it has gone it may never come back.
  9. Sign of a poor quality servo in my opinion. I've never broken the ear off a servo during maintenance in 30-odd years of the hobby. But I almost always use Futaba. Yes, you can buy aluminium cased servos but they are a lot more expensive. The TT-02 is designed for a Futaba S3003, at about £8 each they work perfectly and are much better quality than the chinese junk brands. Also, don't tighten the servo up fully until you have got the alignment right. Twisting a fully tightened part is never going to end well
  10. Well, it looks like you are using the wrong part. You should be using the D10 part, it looks like you have the P part on it (which is actually for a TT-01. So rebuild with D10. When they say other parts, it just refers to the part that goes onto the servo spline and the screw you use. Not every servo uses the same fitting. Never heard of Radient but it looks like you have found the correct part to fit the splines (most mystery Chinese servos are Futaba fitting).
  11. I think 51297 might be "short" anyway (short became the new standard when it was released I think). Even so the difference between the short arms and the old arms is not much, maybe only a mm or so. Thinner hex might be an option.
  12. No reason not to prefer stick. Most of us oldies in the UK grew up with them and still use them. Most of the rest of the world went to wheels a long time ago which is why sticks are a bit harder to find. Thankfully there are still a few options on the market. Model boaters seem to prefer sticks as well which helps our cause.
  13. Yes, and any of the other paints sold for airbrushing onto polycarbonate should be fine for brushing. I use Hobbynox paint (which is made by Createx). Although there are other ways of blacking out windows. Normally I'd mask them first, and then spray them after I have done the main body colour (and backed the main body colour to make it opaque so that the black doesn't show through).
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