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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. Yes, most of the bodies that L&L sell as their own brand are the TeamC bodies. They also seem to have acquired some of the old Frewer moulds. Can't tell how original the TeamC bodies are and how many are copies of existing designs. Maybe a combo of both. Team C used to be a fairly well known manufacturer of cars and buggies, but they seem to have done an almost complete switch over to lexan bodies. No idea if it is the same firm or just the name that has been sold on.
  2. So just in case you didn't already know, hydrogen isn't being used by Toyota as a fuel for combustion engines, a fuel cell is essentially a replacement for a battery. Nice tech showcase and nice job on the custom build... but I think that having a personal supply of compressed liquid hydrogen for your RC hobby is a bit over the top... I can't say that charging an RC battery has ever been a barrier to my enjoyment By the way, the location of the photo shoot is Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds - perfect opportunity to combine a cutesy full-size village and the cutesy model-village!
  3. Trust me, if you don't buy them you'll be upset... If you use a Phillips or Posidriv screwdriver you will be one of the many people who come on the forum and complain about the "terrible Tamiya screws". If you use a JIS driver (and Tamiya's tool sets are pretty much the easiest way to get them), your build will be so easy you won't even notice the screws...
  4. M-05 long wheelbase is 237mm, and of course it is much narrower unless you fit TL01 suspension to it.
  5. Well, upgrading one of these will be a very personal project. It's a toy grade car and was never intended to be upgraded, the electronics are not the same standards as a hobby grade RC car, and the suspension and transmission are not intended to cope with anything beyond what it came with in the box. Now of course there are people who do modify their toy-grade cars, but you would have much more performance and a much easier life if you put the money you were thinking of spending on the QD towards a modern hobby-grade car instead. Personally I'd just clean it up and put it on the shelf and maybe see if I can get it running for sentimental reasons.
  6. If you're going to try and fix the bump steer I'd look into a panhard bar first to keep it a bit more scale. Although to be honest one of my trucks has 4-link and a chassis mounted servo, the bump steer on the bench is terrible but you don't really notice it when you are driving - there is so much going on with the rigid-axle suspension that the bump steer is just part of the ride! Nice selection of 3D printed accessories - makes it look like a mini Hobao DC1. What wheel/tyre diameter have you got on there?
  7. No it's not a feature that's ever been added to a ground radio. I suppose 2 channels is much simpler, and the consequences of a mistake are much smaller.
  8. I'd be looking at: 1. receiver installation, in case the antenna is not picking up the signal from anything other than short distance (either the antenna needs to be made more visible, or has got damaged) 2. NiMH battery, may not be giving all the power the 10.5 motor can demand and dropping too low in voltage, causing the receiver to failsafe.
  9. Tamiya have been consistent with their bodyshell dimensions ever since they released the first "touring" size chassis, so there won't be any issue fitting the Subaru body to other chassis (they are all standard wheelbase). Normally Tamiya keep the same body mount positions as well although there are a handful of exceptions out there, i would expect these chassis to have the same mounting positions as they have always been sold with bodies and Tamiya do a lot of re-releases of bodies on different chassis.
  10. The battery checker is only estimating capacity based on voltage anyway. That's why 3.8-ish is the voltage that has been settled on for storage - it's roughly half capacity
  11. I don't know what the lead acid mode would do. I'm surprised that the charger won't recognise a flat NiMH, with NiCds it would be quite normal to store them at 0v. Do you have a dumb wall trickle charger around that you could use to get the NiMH s started?
  12. Sounds like you have the parts pixies living in your attic as well. They live in my house too, and steal small components from cars that were put away in full working order...
  13. If you're not planning on using them then storage voltage is your best bet, LiPos should stay at their storage voltage for a long time (measured in months/years rather than days)
  14. I would just treat it very carefully when you connect it back up to a charger. Sudden explosion is pretty unlikely, but even if you do get a charge back into it, it will have lost performance - bulging is the result of a degradation of the battery internals. If it won't even fit in a battery compartment any more then I would just get rid of it. Varying views on the best way of doing this, I happen to have a charger with a "destroy" mode which I would use before taking the battery to the tip.
  15. Have you got the manual? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Users_Manual_Xerun-SD_60-120A.pdf?1727 Looks like it can be programmed using the "set" button but also looks like it would be a pain to do. The current programmer will still program that old ESC.
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