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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. By the way, the body is an 89-92 Ford Ranger copy, not an F-150.
  2. I have the GS02F and although the BOM body looks awesome there are some big compromises with the rear suspension, it's OK 90% of the time but does do odd things at the limit. I'm going to convert mine to a standard rear end shortly, just have to decide on which body to build it with. I had the high points on my axles but not enough to make them jam up, I minimised it as much as I could by making slight adjustments to the screws holding the ring gear to the locker. A machined locker is available as an option. After one run under power the whole transmission is exceptionally smooth so no need for anything else on mine. You can build the GS02F and Element without overdrive, but yes, optional parts are required in both circumstances. To be honest I haven't yet noticed any problems on the trails with the overdriven front (I have an Element too), the trucks aren't ever going fast enough or generating enough grip for it to be an issue. They are both very capable trucks, I'm running both basically stock apart from heavier wheels and Pro-line tyres, haven't broken a thing yet despite them rolling down various rocky hillsides.
  3. Any particular reason you went for the old GS02 version instead of the new GS02F?
  4. You should use the M-03 specific servo saver, it is a lot longer and has unique geometry.
  5. No it's probably the motor that isn't running right and putting too much load through the ESC. Also check the drivetrain rolls freely when the motor is removed.
  6. Probably not, I remember seeing this pic before, it's a shed full of (mostly) 1/8th rallycross cars, one of those people that has bought lots of cars over the years and never got rid of any of them. Probably much rarer than any Tamiya collection but worth almost nothing!
  7. Opacity is always tricky to judge with polycarbonate paints. If you've misjudged the opacity of the blue, there's a chance that the pink would change the shade. Safer to back with white before the pink goes on.
  8. No, it's a modern replica of the development parts that Jamie Booth ran on the Egress back in the early 90s. It's not a Tamiya product. I remember making my own wishbone rear end for my Avante 2001 using Madcap parts (which I think may have been what Jamie used) and a piece of scrap plastic from my dads workshop. It lasted about half a lap.
  9. Trust me, don't even waste your time with a Phillips, go straight to a JIS. Even a Phillips that feels good is slowly wearing the screw head out.
  10. None of which have a rear engine. I can only think of the OPs original suggestion of the 959 and various 911s as a rear engine 4wd car. All the other rear engine cars I can think of were only RWD, on the road or in competition. But I suspect the MF01X is rear engine because of Tamiya being Tamiya. It might allow them to package the TL01 inspired drivetrain a bit better, or might just give a better weight distribution. I don't think there is any masterplan to reissue the 959 body on that chassis. They could have done that ages ago if they wanted to, the licence can't be an blocker as they are still releasing other Porsches.
  11. Been there, done that. Nothing fundamentally wrong with a DB01 at the time of release, but 4wd carpet buggy racing has moved on a lot since then, you'll spend a lot of time and money on upgrading the car but won't cause any surprises.
  12. I think you are messing around too much with the car which is not giving you a consistent base to focus on your driving. Since your club is running "open" TT-01 rules rather than Iconic ones you've been able to fit the rear toe in uprights which are the best way to fix the inconsistent rear grip on a TT-01 The rest should just be a case of settling on a tyre (and also tyre prep) and just focus on driving it. Pulling randomly to the left is the kind of thing that starts happening if you mess about with the car all the time and re-assemble the car incorrectly without realising it. I wouldn't run short shocks around Broxtowe, you need plenty of down travel for the jumps. I wouldn't even mess around with the shock positions. Standard geometry, standard length shocks and springs, toe in rear uprights, open rear diff (I have no idea what that Yeah racing diff is like but sometimes these third party diffs are not as smooth as you would expect), putty in the front diff should get you around the track. Don't go mixing brands of tyres, they'll behave completely differently to one another. Try and find a set that gives enough rear end grip, and just get your lines right. You've already said you over-drive when you think you should be faster. So just drive neater. You will be surprised how much quicker you can go around the track if you just keep it tidy. To be honest TT-01s are not very good cars and the people that make them go fast at Iconic Cup meetings are all very experienced and very talented. You would probably make more progress with a better platform, which needs less of the dark arts to get a good setup.
  13. A UK buyer of imported privately sold goods you should expect to be charged VAT and duty on them, yes.
  14. Well, the UK is not in the EU. So you should expect to pay taxes and duties. However you should also have the VAT (sales tax) removed from any purchases from VAT-registered UK businesses. This won't help with private second-hand purchases, and a lot of UK traders may not be interested in the administration of doing tax-free sales (it's easy, but not as easy as selling to the UK only). Same when we in the UK buy from Europe. Tax and duty is due, but tax should be deducted by the EU seller. But yes, the UK is now effectively the same as the US or the Far East for EU member states. And it's been like this for over 6 months. If the Italian customs want to hold a package for a month, that's more a reflection of their processes than the UK's departure from the EU. I've ordered from the EU this year and received my goods within days.
  15. Ignoring the ESC for a moment, does the steering work when everything is plugged in? If not, the receiver is not sending power to the receiver (and not getting signal back from it either), which suggests the ESC is not plugged into to the receiver correctly (possibly a reversed plug). Could also be that the receiver does not have a BEC circuit inside it if it is very old.
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