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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. Tamiya #51293 is considered the most durable. It is a softer plastic.
  2. The voltage doesn't really mean anything after the cells have been resting, beyond "it's charged". Best guide is straight after the pack has completed the charge. Is it warm to the touch? If it is still cold - it's not charged and probably "false peaked". There is a whole lot going on in a NiMH pack that you can diagnose if you are so inclined, and it was what you had to do towards the end of NiMHs in racing. But you would need some pretty high end charging/discharging equipment to do it. Thankfully we have LiPos now.
  3. 7.68 sounds far too low as a peak voltage. 8.3 is a bit low too. I'd expect the pack's peak voltage under charge to be closer to 1.5V per cell. Is this the peak voltage that the charger gives as a readout or is it after the pack has been resting? What charger settings are you using?
  4. Too nice to race! There was some reference to working with true acrylic airbrush paints earlier. Most of them are manufactured by Createx. I haven't been working with them long but I've picked up a few tips along the way: They do not dry at all quickly, and a heat gun between coats can really help - in fact I'd say its essential. They are easy to mix (surprised the earlier poster could not find white or black for sale, they are needed!) They are really thick. I've got a Fengda brush with a 0.8mm needle which will spray them nicely without any extra thinning at 20psi. They need a lot of thinning to get through the 0.5mm needle at that pressure Usual advice for multiple thin coats applies. Usual advice for a clean painting surface also applies, you can rough up the surface too although I currently don't bother. Even after they have cured fully, they scratch easily. They don't fall off the shell though as the paint is flexible. It's common to "seal" the cured paint with a clearcoat of some sort. I've used some Tamiya PS Smoke myself, which means you can tint the windows at the same time. In the UK, Halfords acrylic clear is a popular choice, its certainly cheaper than buying Tamiya PS cans.
  5. Generally you'd go with a lighter oil in the rear compared to the front, it makes the car safer to drive. I have no idea how the Kyosho diffs feel with different oils, I'd probably run 5k in the rear and something heavier in the front to start with. But if you are just bashing with limited power, I don't think you will get into huge trouble if you have the same oil all round.
  6. Well, the 8.4v is faster because of the higher voltage. I'm surprised you've got such a good life out of your NiCd, very impressive, you must be doing something right with them. Normally they will lose performance over time. Did you compare the average voltage under discharge? The NiMHs are much more temperamental than the NiCds, so I'm not surprised the capacity is below the rating. They don't like a deep discharge, they should be cut off at 0.9V per cell. But basically I would have zero expectations from a cheap NiMH pack.
  7. Have you got a picture of your current wiring? If you have an ESC with a cutoff you don't need a LiPo alarm, and if you are including the balance connector everything is the car is going to take up more space.
  8. 3.5mm is a popular size for motors, a couple of manufacturers fit them by default. Surprised that the poster above has had an issue with them, my local model shop (who are far from a specialist) have plenty of them on the shelf. You can get a few different designs, because they generally have exposed external contacts you'll need to shrink over them. (first google image result)
  9. Personally I've always used brushed motors in the M-07, sealed can brushed motors are just the right amount of performance for these cars, and they are no bother to maintain (run em till they die and then bin them).
  10. Well, you already know the size/shape - Standup.
  11. Brushes are all pretty similar - used to be a "big deal" in racing but don't really matter now. Seem to be plenty on eBay, and you might find them hanging around as old stock in a local model shop.
  12. I assume you are using a KO transmitter as well? General rule is not to mix and match brands with crystal radios.
  13. Well I wish I could tell you with certainly but it's always nice to see the old equipment. I'd say the radio is late 70s/early 80s and the speed controller early/mid 80s... Never seen the speed controller before, and I wonder whether it is actually intended as a car ESC or for something else (due to its enormous size and very conservative amp rating!)
  14. No, you only need the chassis parts. Maybe some longer screws for the servo as mentioned above. And be aware that the V1 alloy motor mount won't fit. It's a simple conversion. There are still compromises when fitting a square pack (you have to tape it in), so I'm not 100% convinced its worth doing unless you really want to run a square pack. And some shells might rub on the back of the V2 chassis (it's longer for the droop screws)
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