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sosidge

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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. There have been many one-way solutions over the years, driveshafts, layshafts, diffs, clickers... They all have the same general effect to greater or lesser degrees.
  2. Feel like I need to step in a correct the (unintentional) misinformation here, as that is absolutely not how a one-way works in an RC car. Yes, one-ways disengage the front axle. No, they do not add grip in low-traction conditions. A one-way would be used on a high grip surface to generate more steering. The main downside is that you lose front braking so the car is liable to spin out on the brakes. They were common until the 00s but are rarely used now. A fixed drive or a centre diff is much easier to drive, especially with the power available now. Now in the example of full-size cars, you will find some 4wd cars that used a system that is similar to a one-way diff. One example is the VW "Haldex" system. But that works on a different principle, adding drive to the rear axle when there is a loss of traction on the front (difference in wheel speed between front and rear). So you have a "well balanced" FWD car that has 4wd when you need it. In the RC setup, you have a "well balanced" 4wd car that becomes RWD in certain conditions. Not so useful.
  3. I would invest in the Tamiya thinner as for the sake of a small amount of money it is not worth taking the risk with pure alcohol. I would not use water to thin Tamiya acrylics. Personally I think the Tamiya acrylics are usually a little thick for brush painting so I would thin them. The retarder is an option but I would say it is not as necessary after you have thinned the paints. Tamiya's basic brushes are excellent, better than some of the premium brushes I have. Otherwise your list looks good. Only advice, as with all painting, is keeping things clean and taking your time.
  4. Hitec use a 24T spline. Tamiya do not support this. Which may be why the previous owner bodged it. I hope the replacement servo you ordered is not a Hitec. Most brands use a 25T spline, some use a 23T, both of which are supported by Tamiya.
  5. Another disappointing toy from Tamiya. Imagine what they could do if they really set their mind to doing an RC Ford panel van. Instead you just get an unlicensed lexan blob on a cheap chassis that is neither scale nor high performance. The Midnight Pumpkin was a "better" release when it came out 35 years ago! Seriously Tamiya, make a bit of an effort. Build a decent chassis for the scale of the body, fit well-proportioned wheels, and make the effort to get the licensing to put the correct badges on it. Even the Chinese brands are doing a better job now. Look at the trucks that FMS are putting on the market.
  6. You seem to have done a lot of changes to the suspension and you're running 4wd tyres. Here's the thing about basic Tamiyas. Tamiya's engineers know what they are doing with the out of the box setup. Unless you really know what you are doing, you will struggle to make the car better. Also, 2wd buggy on paving blocks is simply not the surface that they are designed for. And you will struggle to find tyres that are intended for it. I'd rebuild it back to kit settings and get rid of those 4wd tyres.
  7. Leaded solder is not banned in the EU. The UK was in the EU when the restrictions came in but it only applies to industrial use, not hobby use. Now maybe it is harder to find 60/40 solder in a small market like Norway but that doesn't mean it is banned. Quick search suggests you can order through Farnell and other professional retailers - https://no.farnell.com/en-NO/c/tools-production-supplies/soldering-stations-accessories/solder-wire?solder-alloy=60-40-sn-pb
  8. These are all budget chassis, none are "nicer" than a TT-02. If you want to experiment with more adjustments you would need a pure race chassis or maybe a TA08-level Tamiya.
  9. That will have caused it. Replace pinion/spur as required and try again. A bit of grit getting stuck is just one of the risks of running on that kind of surface.
  10. Super Sabre was my first car. But I won't be buying one of these.
  11. I can guarantee they don't do a better job than me. I've had a number of RTRs over the years. I don't think any of them have suffered from missing parts out of the box like some do. But parts that haven't been cleanly trimmed from the sprue (and don't fit together as a result), under- or over-tightened fasteners, stripped threads, uneven linkage lengths and insufficient lubrication are commonplace. Every RTR that I have had had ended up being significantly rebuilt after the first few runs. Either because of parts that broke, or to correct build errors that stop the vehicle from running well.
  12. Some of the people who work in RTR factories can't build things properly either.
  13. There are a few AliExpress sellers selling genuine premium brands. Usually not much of a discount from Western prices though with lots of added risk. I use AliExpress for the off-brand stuff. Better than going via eBay or Amazon sellers who have the same stuff with a big markup and often dropship anyway.
  14. Hobbywing 10bl120 or 10bl60 would be the natural choice for an ESC. For a servo there are a million available at the lower end of the market which would all be fine. My current cheapies are mostly PowerHD and have given no issues. For a DT-02 you don't need high torque so prioritise speed. Futaba servos always work well but are more expensive.
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