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About sosidge

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  • Birthday 02/04/1976

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  1. Your tone is very aggressive. If you don't like the answer I have spent time composing you are welcome to go elsewhere. There is a reason they are called idlers. One of those is not an idler gear. If the input is 25T and the output is 50T then the internal ratio is 2:1
  2. It's become quite complex now after Brexit because HMRC have also taken the opportunity to require overseas sellers to charge VAT on the UKs behalf for transactions under £135. Completely unnecessary bureaucracy in my opinion which also means a lot of overseas sellers won't ship small orders to the UK any more. But the basic concept (and this is the same worldwide) is that you don't pay sales tax in the country of origin, but it is due in the UK once it arrives. You can also have duty and handling fees if something gets stopped at customs.
  3. Internal ratio is output gear/input gear. Idlers don't count (assuming they are really idlers and not some kind of compound gear that is also changing the ratio). Most racing cars will state the internal ratio in the manual somewhere. FDR is then (spur/pinion)*internal ratio
  4. Well you could make an XV-01 rear wheel drive, and there are some front motor drift chassis out there that were originally 4wd but could be easily converted. You've also got mid-front motor options, top end front-wheel-drive racing chassis are mostly mid-front motored, something like an XRAY T4F-21 can be built as a RWD. There are also 4wd buggies with a mid-front motor and shaft drive but I can't think of any touring chassis that use the same layout.
  5. You can get a 239mm chassis conversion for the Xpress XM1. RCMart own the Xpress brand. I haven't seen an FR mini chassis.
  6. Completely normal to lose interest! RC has been the dominant hobby of my life, I don't see that changing. But even now I will go through phases where I don't touch an RC car for 6 months and don't have any sense of missing it. On the topic of "regrets" in the hobby, I have a couple of thoughts on how to avoid them: 1. Be selfish. It's your hobby. Do what you want to do and buy what you want to buy. Ignore the crowd. It's easy to assume that you want a 45th Anniversary Porsche when everyone else is shouting about a pre-order... but is that really the case? 2. Don't hobby above your means. It can feel like you have "wasted" money on the hobby, but it's really only a waste if you've chosen hobby spending over the essentials. Anyone that's bought a Super Avante instead of school uniform for their children has got serious problems! Personally I have absolutely zero interest in collecting so I don't build up the stocks of unused cars and parts that a lot of people do. But I've sold plenty of things over the years. Never woken up in a sweat at night regretting it.
  7. A quick Google suggests that Square make a Top Force Evo set, which looks like the right combination of tapping and machine screws. You can also get generic titanium screws in packs from various RC sources, although you may not be able to get some of the more specialised sizes that the kit needs. I'll echo what @Juggular has said about strength. I'll also mention that Tamiya put tapping screws in the kits for a reason - they are the screw that is most suitable for the soft plastic the kit is made from. So don't assume that a machine thread will be "better". But obviously a set of titanium screws are as much an aesthetic choice as a performance one.
  8. Sorry to be blunt but you have built the front end completely wrong somewhere. Look at how much toe out you have! No wonder the wheels can hardly move, most of the range of movement has already been taken up by the toe angle. As @Aerobert said, take the front end apart completely and rebuild according to the manual.
  9. I've painted dozens of bodies over the years. Frustratingly there is still a lesson learned with every one... I'll get it right one day.
  10. Power on understeer is normal, so is it a matter of your expectation not meeting reality? If you are getting full lock (and you should set the endpoints so that the chassis does not twist), then you have already got the most important thing working. My only thought is that you describe this as a "Rally". Does that mean you have jacked up the suspension to its limits? If so, that will not help the handling.
  11. If the 3PV came with that receiver in the box then they are already bound. or at least they would have been before you started. If you have no LED at all on the receiver then that suggests no power to the receiver. Which suggests the ESC is plugged in backwards. Signal wire should be oriented towards the middle of the receiver.
  12. 17.5 brushless will pull a much bigger gear than a 23t brushed, depending on the Tamiya car it will actually be hard to gear them high enough to get the performance out of them. I wouldn't expect a racing 17.5 to be massively faster than a rebuildable 23t brushed once geared correctly. I'd say a good 17.5 is now on a par with the old brushed 19t spec motors, no faster than that. But with close to zero maintenance.
  13. Have you completely reset the model memory on the transmitter? The 1060 auto-detects full throttle and full brake, if you have any settings on the radio that are limiting brake (even ones that you don't remember applying), it will stop if from getting full brakes.
  14. What's the radio and what's the servo? Most common reason for this is a combination of a servo that demands a high current and an ESC that can't supply it, or a receiver that can't cope with the momentary voltage drop. Also if you are running a brushed motor there is potential for them to cause interference although it really only happened with old AM radios. Sealed can motors normally have capacitors built in to them already but you can add more.
  15. Anyone at the track who won't tell you what they are running isn't the kind of person that's worth bothering with, 95% of racers will happily let you know what they are running so that you can get up to speed. Tyres are always the most important thing. 33/25 Sweeps is the go-to setting for Minis indoors when that is the brand that is being used and has been for ages. There's plenty of articles online about mini racing that say the same thing. It's only a secret if you don't ask. I've just gone back to buggy racing after a long break and it's the first time I've raced on a track that includes Astroturf for nearly 30 years... I asked on the club Facebook before turning up and immediately got given a list of all the tyres that work and when I would want to use them. Racers like to help other racers. PS If you don't have an M-05 already I would not recommend one for racing. The M-07 is much faster and includes all the essential hop ups. By the time you've upgraded an M-05 to even a basic racing spec (shocks, driveshafts, steering assembly, diff if you can find one) you are at the same price as an M-07 but have a fundamentally slower car in your hands.
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