Mondo

TwinSet, The "problem" with Customs for the Mini-Z is the narrow width of the wheelbase. On 1/24 kits is looks a bit "Citroen 2CVish" if that makes any sense? You'll also need to extend the "T Plate/H Plate" that the motor mount is connected to and the motor wires to fit most custom shells. The Mini-Z at 1/27 to /128 scale (debatable) is more suited to 1/25th scale bodyshells, although the wheelbase still need extending. The standard wheels on a Mini-Z are 8mm wide, if you get what Kyosho term as "wide rear" wheels, these are 11mm wide. The 'Z Racer (car) as an out of the box product isn't no ball of fire either, it requires a magnitude of hop-ups to make it handle and perform. Even then, it doesn't hold a light to a Tamtech on performance and handling - I know as I own a vast collection of small-scale proportional RC cars. I'm not knocking the Mini-Zs, I own seven Mini-Zs, three Racers, two F1s and two Overlands - which are the best Mini-Z product Kyosho ever released in my opinion. As base for a functional small scale working replica that has the benefits of fully proportional electronics and brakes (F1 and Overland only) the Mini-Z is in a class of its own. I realy do like the 'Z, as you can see, I am a Mod on the Mini-ZRacer.com Forums, as I was one of the very first members to join. I look forward to seeing your end product and it will probably inspire me to debble in another custom Mini-Z Racer. Hang in there and I'll read your replies tomorrow night, as I'm in Birmingham tomorrow

Greetings TWINSET [] So, your debbling in a Mini-Z. Cool. I have the Aoshima MM2 Road Warrior dirty or weathered version. They're a littl expensive, but Aoshima are limiting the Readysets to 500 units of each (as in clean and dirty) The dirty version hacks it due to the boot-lid being removed to facilitate the extra fuel tanks. That modification on a "clean" and shiny Falcon just doesn't make sense, if you follow the film religiously. I've also seen a Tamtech with a 1/24 Interceptor bodyshell coversion

quote: Originally posted by Shodog Since Mini-z are so popular, the price of Tamtechs has gone way down. id="quote">id="quote"> Shodog, I disagree, I just bought myself two NIB, sealed TamTechs and some spares. They were far from cheap. See my showroom for details As for the spares, I agree they will be scarce, it's such a pity because the TamTechs are amazing little cars. As only one of my new TamTechs is a complete kit (the other is just a car kit) I've decided to get the car kit up and running with Micro electronics. I own two extremely trick Micro RS4s, so I have had extensive experience with good Micro electronics. My choice would be the Novak SPY ESC, it can run 7-cells up to a 300 sized motor plus brake and reverse is a bonus. The Novak XXL (in Euro 40MHz FM) is my choice of RX, with a Hitech HS81MG servo. All the parts are fairly cheap and made by reputable manufacturers. Team Orion make the Flash ESC for the Micro, it's small, has brakes, reverse and is cheaper than the Novak SPY. The bonus part of Micro RS4 electronics is the fact that they have the same mini-power connector as the TamTechs. Another cheaper route is to use the Mini-X electronics. Do a search on the Mini-X, there is a Thread covering them. I own one of them too and they have a real low cost seperate RX and ESC, under $65 for the pair and a very small servo. No brakes though.. Mini-Xpress who make the Mini-X also sell 7.2V 700mAh NiMh battery packs based on LG AAA cells, they are cheap and can be adapted to the TamTech fairly painlessly. Novak make a 180 sized aftermarket motor for the Micro RS4, it's faster than the standard HPI issue 180 motor and shouldn't be too expensive. Karl the Mechanic: http://uk.geocities.com/sabildz4/Models/FrmSet/FrmSet.htm has some good tips on keeping the TamTech alive. he has tips on converting Mini-Z F1 and other manufacturer's wheels to fit the TamTech. I hope the info helpsid="Tahoma">

The Mini-X is not a bad Mini-RC car. I recently bought one and I was quite impressed with it, expecially for the cost. I am running a 6-cell 7.2V 700mAh NiMh AAA pack and I found that with the 7.2V and factory supplied 6.0V packs the motor tends to get extremely hot I have made myself a new hybrid custom motor, using a Squat ball bearing 130 motor can with Neo Magnets and PN Racing carbon brushes, all wrapped around a brand new standard armature. The difference is night and day, it runs cooler, offers longer runtimes and performs about 15-20% better. Regarding the Mini-X popping dogbones, place a spacer or O-rin (I use the HPI Micro RS4 wing-mount O-rings) in the cavity of the diff, where the adjustment screw is. This stops the dogbone from riding up the cavity and falling out.id="Comic Sans MS">