Snake Plissken

I have a used Kyosho Le Mans AP36 motor that I want to use on an Ultima restoration. I know this motor is intended for rc gliders/airplanes, but I don't see why it can't be used on a buggy with a suitable gear ratio. My problem is that in order to set the right gear ratio I need to know the motor specs, specifically, the number of winds. Is anyone familiar with this motor specs? Also, I'll be glad to get a gear ratio recommendation for using it in an original (1st generation) Ultima. Thanks

Hi Anders, I'm the one who traded the Turbo Ultima with Pete. Unfortunately I do need the front gold shocks as I have a rear gold set and am planning to install them together on the car.

I recently found this reciever+ESC unit at RC Mart (Dinball). I never saw this product before nor have I ever heard about the company (probably an unknown Chinese manufacturer). RC Mart are the only ones who carry it. For $38 I'm tempted to buy a unit for one of my vintage runners, but I'm having some doubts regarding its quality. Has anyone had any experience with this unit? http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info..._id=11780

I also have a modified Madcap with Super Astute gearbox. I only drive stock motors as they're long lasting and to replace. For your needs you should definately go for the RZ/BZ (exellent motors!). Back when I first installed the Super Astute gearbox on my Madcap I was very disappointed to find out the 0.5 pinion gears available only supported modified motors gear ratio. But since the Dark Impact release, larger pinion gears became available. I currently run an RZ motor (almost the same rating as the BZ) with the Dark Impact stock 26t pinion. Until recently I used a 25t pinion but I felt I had enough torque (and the motor didn't overheat) so decided to jump a teeth (incidently this is the maximum pinion size you can install in the Super Astute gearbox as you can not move the motor any further from the spur). I usually drive the Madcap in the local course which has hard, exposed soil. As you intend to run on grass as well I suggest you use the 25t pinion. Keep watching the motor temperature though, and if it overheats switch to a tooth or two smaller pinion.

The Blackfoot and Frog have the same gearbox, except for the spur gear/pinion (the Blackfoot, having large truck tires, needs a different gear ratio). The universal shaft will fit the Blackfoot without a problem.

The Rough Rider orange color is interesting... They would have a much simple job by bringing the box-art Rough Rider that sits at the Tamiya museum. Instead they apparently take a new shell and bother to paint it orange. Where did they get this shell from? their secret stash? ebay? maybe a short production run? (very unreasonable) or maybe..... from a big production run meant for the near future rerelease? OK, I know, I'm starting to sound irrational, so correct me if I'm wrong...

Nice video. I really like those late 80's/early 90's local club meetings, looks like lots of fun! I love those baja bodies installed on some of the buggies (I think they were made by proline), wish they would rerelease them!

Hmmm... I think Parma is doing that all the time, taking Tamiya hard bodies and using them as the basis for their mold. For example: bodies for Grasshopper, Monster Beetle, Ford F150, Midnight Pumpkin, Lunch box, Clod, they even used to do a Brat body (wish they rerelease it...). Also, Kamtec is in to it as well.

DJTheo, I think your'e right in those arguments, but the way I see it is that people who bought a Hornet because they couldn't afford the HotShot at the time will be looking to buy one now when they can afford it (I entered rc later, when the Avante was the big thing, and I know I would have bought a rerelease even though I never had one). Personally, my interest and reason to buy the HotShot is because I remember it from looking at the old guide books and from its intriguing technical complexity (those two monoshocks look very interesting).

I'm in the process of restoring a fake Super Shot (look here). I didn't receive the box with it so I don't know who made it. What I can say is that the parts are interchangeable between the original and the fake (unlike the Chinese Baja Champ ripoff that has completely different sized parts). I'm currently building it with the original parts (which are of lesser quality than tamiya but nonetheless good enough), and my intention is to swap to tamiya parts whenever a part will break (its going to be a runner). In regard to the Hotshot rerelease, I'd like to say that I'm eagerly waiting to it since the Frog rerelease was annonced. At the time, some tamiya club members which have some connection to tamiya employees hinted that the Hotshot rerelease will be on the next 'big' rerelease wave. I haven't yet lost hope... I think that the production cost vs. market size arguments are basically correct, but no TC member (unless he is tamiya employee) has access to actual production cost numbers or to market research figures (all we have is a 'hunch' based on ebay pricing, Hotshot past popularity as we remember it from the 80's, and, of course, from forum talks such as this one). I would also like to comment about 'the rereleases are over after the 934/hilift release' notion. To the best of my knowledge this is based on a short article in a japanese paper that mentioned it as an afterthought. Even if it was true, a lot of factors have changed since then, and a dynamic company like tamiya can certainly change its plans due to factors such as product popularity, vintage races growing popularity, product sales (of course...) and marketing. I wrote that last factor because I suspect tamiya intend to rerelease the hotshot together with the tamtech hotshot just like it did with the Frog/Hornet is order to boost sales on the latter. Another important factor for sales evaluation that has already been mentioned (and I think tamiya marketing people are taking into account) is parts interchangeablity (is there such a word?!) with similar models. Just like rereleased Frog kits/parts were bought by Blackfoot/Monster Beetle/Brat etc. owners to help rebuild their cars, so will Boomerang/Supershot/Bigwig owners will buy parts for their cars. to summarize my post: stay optimist

I second that. This motor series is highly recommended, with very good peformance on one hand and long lasting on the other hand and with their low price you get a sure winner! I have three motors (2 RZs and one TZ) that I run regularly and am very satisfied.

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you, but I also have a similar problem with a P60N CPR (probably the first CPR model tamiya made and it shows- that thing is a brick!). The current adjustment gets it from neutral at 2/3 throtle to full speed at full throtle which makes it hard to control (its almost as if you only have neutral and top speed). I do not see any adjustment pots/buttons on mine as well (I don't think any CPR can be adjusted). Is it possible that each CPR came pre-adjusted to its adspec remote? I find it hard to believe as Tamiya also sold a CPR/servo kits without the remote. Anyone any ideas? here is my CPR:

The same thing happened to TC member speedsecret during our meeting yesterday. Its actually the second time it happend so he plan to use ca to glue the two parts together. Here is a pic of the incident:

Tom, why go to tamiyaclub when you can ask me... The rear Hornet dampers & springs are identical to the Wild One's front (I used them on my brother's Wild One). I believe I have a spare one, call to remind me before the next meeting and I'll get it for you. Avi

Hello everyone, I've been approached by several members regarding the Ninja manual scan. The easiest way to get it is through this link. The credit for scannig and posting the manual on his site should be given to TC member Rienk for whom I would like to thank again in this opportunity for making the manual available. Have fun with your Ninjas! Avi

Hi Chris, Sorry if my post sounded annoying. When writing it I was convinced that the showroom problem was part of a new feature and it was here to stay (which would be a major inconvenience!) but if its a bug that you are aware of than I have no problem waiting the days or weeks for you to fix. ps: I noticed you already fixed it, thanks!

I noticed a very irritating problem after the site came back online. I like to check the showroom updates daily, but sometimes for various reasons (workload, vacations etc) I can only check the site after a week or so. Since the showroom updates don't wait for me that means I need to 'dive' a few pages in the showroom history. I am not sure if this is the result of a bug or a feature, but ever since the site came back online two days ago I find it very difficult to do this showroom history check. If, say, I'm on page 4 in the history and enters a member's model entry, when I use the browser 'back' button it brings me back to page 1 instead of the page I was in. This happens both in firefox and in internet explorer so it doesn't look like a browser compatibility problem. I didn't notice anyone else mentioning this which is weird as i'm sure other people also check the showroom updates like me. Chris, if you're reading this, I'd appreciate if you could look into it.

Hi, Slipping King Cab diff (same as Madcap) has been covered extensively in the forums, use the search option and I'm sure you'll find the answer you need.

I have just installed the re-release frog cups-dogbones-axles assembly on my wild one this friday and can tell you it fits in perfectly. since the wild one has a smaller suspension travel than the frog you only need to install one o ring on each side. Hope it helps

Running the kc with the diff locked can cause damage to other parts of the drive line (outdrives, dogbones) so its a good idea you open the diff and see whats going on there. Chances are the diff grease became sticky with age and locked up the diff although I've seen kc's whose owner, desperate from constantly slippling diff, glued the diff up. I also bought a repro body from ozrc and am very satisfied. It looks like its mold was based on an original tamiya kc body so its very detailed, but it seems stronger than the original (thicker lexan?). Its certainly worth the asked price.

I'm currently running my king cab with these tires which are similar in size to the original tires and provide good traction. Here is how they look mounted on my kc.

If the diff still slips after your rebuild, it is possible that the internal parts (diff balls, shims) have been worn out a little. The immediate fix for that is adding more thin washers to the diff (as the instructions say). These thin washers are specific for the King Cab/Hilux/Astute/Madcap gearbox and were never offered elsewere (as far as I know), so getting them might be a bit tricky. The King Cab is a good truck (and an excellent jumper!) and when everything works as it should is a great fun to run. When you get the KC sorted I suggest putting in a Tamiya TZ motor -this motor (with the right gearing) fits the truck like a glove!

If we're on the subject I have a nagging question about this brake kit: What effect do you get for braking, ie: are the brake lights on (but dim) when you drive forward and then gets brighter when you hit the brakes (like real life cars do) or do they only lit up when you brake?

my re-re grasshopper box also looked smaller to me than the original, but after looking at a tc member showroom in which he compared the old vs. new boxes I realized they are indeed the same size. I guess I remembered it bigger because I was smaller!

thats scary as I have a similar dream of a local hobby shop that sells used rc cars including all that classic ones: modified frogs, hotshots and the likes. I guess my subconcious works overtime...