BRELs

nice truck TC

the lights stopped working on mine too to stop the screws comming loose, if they are into metal then thread loc them, the ones into the plastic they should be OK, but do not use any thead loc on them because you may melt the plastic

there is a clutch in the turrets turning mecanism it needs gluing up to stop it slipping then the turret will turn a lot better

looks good there Knotty

A very poor rehash of the tamiya 1/16th 105mm sherman, too look better it needs the VVSS running gear to make it look right

Hi I cant access it, because your link is for facebook and not every one uses facebook

I built the Reefer trailer as a flat bed

Mark I am posting about my truck which forum do you mean by "our forum" yup great video

does anyone know where I can get a stronger bumper stay A (MF4) for my Scania R620, I ask this because every time I run the truck outside, I find that I have to take the cab and front fender/bumper off and straighten out the bumper stay, It is realy getting on my t*ts to do that after every run outside, I also broke the L/Hand side steps off but have glued them back on whilst I wait for a replacement set from HK

i got mine from here http://www.afv-model.com/4711shop/index.ph...-Linde-H50.html

delete this post

thanks mate I have ordered a couple from them

I have lost the gear change plate that fits on to the transmitter and find it hard to keep the truck in any one gear with out going into the next gear does any one lnow where I can get one from

the dmd for the Tiger and King tiger differ from the Jagdpanthr dmd because the tigers and KT dmds have the rotation sound and the Jagdpanther one does not, even though they have the same engine, machine gun and Cannon fireing sound

Jeff, I Apologise to you and Nick, I just assumed that you had transplanted the mato upper hull onto the tamiya lower hull. Not realising that the upper hull could be bought in resin from Nick.

Panther F is that the mato sherman upper hull top on a Tamiya lower hull

that is exactly how I wired the lights on my scania

I have replace the dog bone drive prop shaft with the front prop shaft from a CR - 01 crawler it has Universal joints and is much stronger, the one in the picture is the unused rear CR-01 rear prop shaft I am looking for a very short prop shaft with UJ's to go between the two drive axles.

I replaced the Plastic fifth wheel with an anodised black aluminium one I got from Stellamodels

I ordered some parts for a couple of project from stella models the day before the European airways were shut, so I don't know when I will get them, oh well I will just have to wait, after all people trying to get home are more important than a few model parts

on another forum, it was suggested theat counter sunk screws would provide a solution to the motorised legs kit hitting the fender on the truck

where did you get the smaller gear pinions from

I found that a 1 imm shim of plasticard helped to stop the screws on the underside of the support legs switch scratching the fenders on the right hand side to ****

I have modified the one piece solid ramp on the carson trailer to make it a split ramp type, I also cut off the legs that stuck out from the back of the ramp because I felt that they did not look right. from this to this

I had a similar problem with my R620 with unwanted rattles and such like, I found that I had bent the cab mounting plate that screws on to the chassis front, also it is easy to bend the mounting plate if you run into kerbs and other things at speed, so I tweeked it a bit and the rattles went away, I also put some padding on the cabs securing plate at the back to stop the rattle there