BRELs
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Posts posted by BRELs
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I tried adding glue to the slipper clutch and that really seemed to help.
I have other minor problems that I'm dealing with. After a couple of hours driving the tank around the house chasing the kids a few screws have come loose and the lights have stopped working.
Lots of fun.
the lights stopped working on mine too
to stop the screws comming loose, if they are into metal then thread loc them, the ones into the plastic they should be OK, but do not use any thead loc on them because you may melt the plastic
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there is a clutch in the turrets turning mecanism it needs gluing up to stop it slipping then the turret will turn a lot better
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looks good there Knotty
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A very poor rehash of the tamiya 1/16th 105mm sherman, too look better it needs the VVSS running gear to make it look right
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If the link works, here´s a short video from a meet arranged by my RC trucking club at a Scania dealership, celebrating the arrival of the new Scania R 730 truck..
As you can see, quite a few guys had shown up with their vehicles, and we had a great time.
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/vi...v=1692945207162
Cheers..
Michael
Hi I cant access it, because your link is for facebook and not every one uses facebook
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I was thinking that almost all (except the Reefer) Tamiya trailers are "American" style ones,
while on the other hand all recent tractors are European style ones (Scania R470, R620, Man)...
Will also a new "European" trailer be released, something more like the Carson ones?
Has anyone heard anything?
Stamatis
I built the Reefer trailer as a flat bed
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Hey,hey,what're you doing in here Stewie?
You've kept this one quiet over at "our" forum matey,but I must say it looks the dogs,especially
with that Jagd on the back.
Quite a bit like Mike Gibbs' beauty infact:
Well done matey.
Mark
Mark I am posting about my truck
which forum do you mean by "our forum"
yup great video
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does anyone know where I can get a stronger bumper stay A (MF4) for my Scania R620, I ask this because every time I run the truck outside, I find that I have to take the cab and front fender/bumper off and straighten out the bumper stay, It is realy getting on my t*ts to do that after every run outside, I also broke the L/Hand side steps off but have glued them back on whilst I wait for a replacement set from HK
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i got mine from here http://www.afv-model.com/4711shop/index.ph...-Linde-H50.html
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delete this post
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You can buy them from FusionHobbies
thanks mate I have ordered a couple from them
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I have lost the gear change plate that fits on to the transmitter and find it hard to keep the truck in any one gear with out going into the next gear
does any one lnow where I can get one from
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the dmd for the Tiger and King tiger differ from the Jagdpanthr dmd because the tigers and KT dmds have the rotation sound and the Jagdpanther one does not, even though they have the same engine, machine gun and Cannon fireing sound
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Oh, no way! It's Nick Aguilar's resin upper hull, transmission cover and his T-23 turret as well with the Tamiya kit. Lots of scratch built parts and SCHUMO items (as well as other manufacturers) on there as well. My photos do not do it justice for you cannot see the texture in the casting for both parts ... PLUS, this was finished 2 months before that Mato thing came out.
His parts are high quality all the way, modelers grade.
- Jeff
Jeff, I Apologise to you and Nick, I just assumed that you had transplanted the mato upper hull onto the tamiya lower hull. Not realising that the upper hull could be bought in resin from Nick.
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Panther F is that the mato sherman upper hull top on a Tamiya lower hull
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i use zip ties and them small sticky clamp things that come with the MFU or electrical unit set.
that is exactly how I wired the lights on my scania
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I have replace the dog bone drive prop shaft with the front prop shaft from a CR - 01 crawler it has Universal joints and is much stronger,
the one in the picture is the unused rear CR-01 rear prop shaft
I am looking for a very short prop shaft with UJ's to go between the two drive axles.
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I replaced the Plastic fifth wheel with an anodised black aluminium one I got from Stellamodels
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I ordered some parts for a couple of project from stella models the day before the European airways were shut, so I don't know when I will get them, oh well I will just have to wait, after all people trying to get home are more important than a few model parts
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What about cutting off the bottom of the screw ? Mine is all packed away for the future so I'm not sure how it all goes together . . . . . . . . .
on another forum, it was suggested theat counter sunk screws would provide a solution to the motorised legs kit hitting the fender on the truck
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I run 55 turn motors and a 8 tooth or a 6 tooth pinion.
where did you get the smaller gear pinions from
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I found putting washers between the fifth wheel and chassis lifted it enough not to scratch the badword out of the fenders. i found one washer per screw helped.
I found that a 1 imm shim of plasticard helped to stop the screws on the underside of the support legs switch scratching the fenders on the right hand side to ****
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I have modified the one piece solid ramp on the carson trailer to make it a split ramp type, I also cut off the legs that stuck out from the back of the ramp because I felt that they did not look right.
from this
to this -
I had a similar problem with my R620 with unwanted rattles and such like, I found that I had bent the cab mounting plate that screws on to the chassis front, also it is easy to bend the mounting plate if you run into kerbs and other things at speed, so I tweeked it a bit and the rattles went away, I also put some padding on the cabs securing plate at the back to stop the rattle there
Wifes new truck
in Big Rigs and Scale Armour
Posted
nice truck TC