B.M.T.

For manipulating styrene (what our hard bodies are), go check out The Scale Builders Guild. All the knows in one spot.

I have my plan sorted. I have a WW2 body ordered, I have a stash of styrene. Long Willy. Oh yeah, that's right baby.

Yeah, 1992 Rerelease had a 3 bevel diff (the original had a two, and would rock and strip at 90 degrees to the bevel gears), a covered MSC and a slightly roomier battery box, and of course, the 540SH.

That's right, yeah. The BB has the SS hole blanked but visible from underneath.

Just the side mount holes, as per the Blitzer Beetle I guess.

Haha, too true, too true. I thought at least they'd of recycled the white Mu rims or the Toyota Pre Runner ones. .... or M Chassis rims with Rough Rider front tyres all around... Screw it, I (or any of us) could of done a better job let loose in Tamiya's parts bins

I agree, the Golf rims were not a good idea... hence my extremes to deep 6 them lol I mean, it's neigh on PERFECT 1/10th in the body dimensions yet they were so lazy with wheels. Don't make much sense.

To be honest, I can't remember the actual figure for the offset, but the back spacing on the little Landies looks about right, maybe even a touch more inset. Would be fine! And yeah, the little Grabbers... Been out of stock for so long, I ended up paying around $100 AUD for all four from the only place I could find with stock, rc-bitz on ebay because... I had decided it needed them lol. Probably worth checking to see if they have more... And I tried, but the .05" extra bead size makes them a slightly sloppy fit on M chassis rims. I normally would not put weighty wheels on a high geared, independent chassis, but TL gears will cope

I used Super Champ gear cases in the past. They can accommodate modern motors. And also have brass internals if they're complete Although, that might be a costly mod these days.... And rere's.. but you have to do some fettling to use original arms (from my experience).

Nope, but, Everything of Chris's I've bought has been top notch. Just mind the offset. My rims have no hex, they sit on the cross pin directly. That's how I have dish but not much pokage. Those slotters look mad, though. Speaking of, I finally got all the old tyres off those rims and yeah, I think I can say I did good.

The wheels are... but have since been discontinued I knew they have been re jigged into beadlocks since I got those, but just went to get to the part number and they've gone.

GPM made a Mataray/TA01 alloy propshaft that once assembled was locked dead straight, ignoring the 15mm offset between the spigots on a DF01... No photo because I left it in the shop.

I've been rather quiet about mine, that I received from my inlaws for my birthday in August, because I had a plan for a wheel/tyre combo, but even though I already had the rims, the tyres could only be located in the UK, and made a 3 way trip before I could get my hands on them (part of my address fell off in transit and they were sent back by Aus Customs). RC4WD Dirtgrabbers in 1.55" size. Just a slight smear larger than the Rally Blocks, but the rim is close as perfect size to the stock 15" wheels the Jimny comes with. And 5 lug too... I needs me the right number of nuts yo.... I'll lust need to lip the overfenders to eliminate scrub. Oh, and I have the body levelled on the highest position the front posts allow.

Pretty much all 2.2 beadlocks will work, the Bruiser tyre fitment is what the industry based that size tyre on. Now if you were using Bruiser axles, different story.

Interesting. Yours is sitting in the same position as mine, radiator panel to front bulkhead alignment. Although, there is a smattering of posts to fit these mounting bosses, I probably picked the wrong combination lol

Oh, and as you can tell from the top photo, body post holes need to be relocated.

You have to remove a bit of floor and part of a foot to get the WW body down nice and snug, but it's a good thing. Here's mine:

2.2" x 2". Tamiya pioneered the factory standard racing truck rim size. The Masher 2000's and Badlands in 2.2" would be good choices, and save the short travel suspension from a few hard bottom outs.

Yeah, Proline for the rim. They produced a lot of one piece rims for early Tamiya in the day in that star pattern and in holed. No idea why they weren't as popular as other rims from the period. Maybe rims you had to glue you tyre to were too much like sorcery for peeps back then lol

I was looking at mine, freshly built and contemplating paint when I thought it looked a little larger than I'd expected, so I went onto the Suzuki site and checked the dimensions for scale... Seems that Tamiya have pretty much nailed 1/10th within reason.

I vaguely remember a discussion about early hoppers from a couple of years back. From memory there are some other differences as well... like the center pin that the diff centralises on between the axles. There is a version with a plain pin, just like the ones the diff bevel gears sit on, and there is a version with a pin with reduced ends and smaller holes in the ends of the axles for it to sit between.

Hmmm. I put those in my Frog rere and had no end of them ejecting from the out drive cups. The trailing arm set has far too much "distance" change for a non capitulated single sided slip joint Possibly that is why it looks to be sitting lower in the photos (to limit the "out pull" on the dog bone end at full droop). Oh well, if this is the case, I'll be inserting Bushdevil front and rear ends on and keeping the ORV gearbox and narrow front end for spares for my Blackfoot.

Inch wide, beefy gears, much like a Blitzer Beetle and double wishbone rear end, so no ejected drive shafts from trailing arm flex. And twice as much travel, too.

Having a good look at a large photo, it looks like they've included "bump stops" for the front shocks. From memory, at full compression, the front tyres would snag the back of the fenders/guards (what ever you prefer). I guess they've attempted to correct that issue by creating another (halving the barely existing suspension travel). I'm still having one

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