peetbee
-
Posts
36 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by peetbee
-
-
Does anyone have the instruction manual for a Mardave Cobra?
I have the exploded diagram but would like to get a copy of the manual too.
Thanks
-
Both screwsets are good. Before you start building, take a little time to read the review on oOple:
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/
Enjoy!
-
Spectacular ! That is a wonderful collection of Kyosho. What chassis is next ?
Surely he has to start on the Lazer next!
Awesome collection, but how do you resist not building them?!!
-
Basically, it sounds like he didn't get what he wanted for the motor!
I'd give him negative feedback and report him to ebay for messing you around (not saying that ebay would actually pay any attention, but you never know!)
-
What I would add to this is if selling, always send the item on a signed for delivery, don't have it as an option, just include it in the postage.
That way you are protected against buyers who claim it never arrived as paypal insist on a tracking number to prove delivery in event of a dispute plus you are protected against Royal Mail/Parcelforce's inablility to get it right every time.
As a buyer i would also be happy to pay extra for insurance/recorded delivery as you have greater peace of mind.
-
A slipper clutch consists of a new gearbox layshaft so that the spur gur is sandwiched between two slipper plates. The clutch is adjusted via a nut and spring on the end to allow you to set the amount of slip it gives.
It's adjustable to enable you to tune it for different conditions, originally designed for racing it's a worthwhile addition to any car as it protects the rest of the drivetrain on landings too. Ideally it should slip for a couple of feet on acceleration.
Pricewise it seems to be listed at around £37 but you should be able to get it cheaper if you search the internet carefully!
-
Sometime's it's possible for the diff plates to come unstuck (especially if the diff is overtightened) and then break the plastic retainers which are meant to stop them spinning.
If that's happened, then I believe that you can fit the front diff outdrives which are all metal rather than the metal/plastic of the rear. Don't ask me why Tamiya decided to do that! But this is a better long term solution than getting new plastic parts.
Do you have the slipper clutch for the car? If not then getting that will help protect the diffs in the future.
Hope this helps.
-
Price Reduced
-
Al part of my ongoing clear out of RC stuff.
This has been freshly rebuilt, including diffs (with new balls) and several new upgrades including CVD sets front and rear, 3 racing suspension mounts front and rear, 3 racing alloy and graphite ball raced steering and a full stainless steel screw set, with hex fittings. It's got new centre pulleys and rear belt. Brand new set of Gecko foams supplied to go with the foams already fitted.
It's fitted with a Hot Bodies Alfa Romeo 159 bodyshell professionally painted which has never been raced since fitting. (Motor in photos not included).
Also comes with loads of spares including wishbones, steering, uprights, driveshafts, etc. Plus NIP drive belt and NIP diff plates.
SOLD SOLD SOLD!
-
-
I'm sure others will be able to explain this better, but when the diff is in the car, I check how tight it is by holding the front wheels and one rear whilst turning the other rear. If it slips then I tighten it a little then repeat until it stops slipping. (if your motor turns when doing this then your front diff is loose!!)
It's worth bearing in mind that after your first run it will often need tweaking like this again.
I would recommend the slipper clutch even if you only have the standard motor as it does take a lot of stress off the drivetrain.
-
Yep.
But I have to be very,very careful in getting bits past the mrs after being made redundant 5 weeks ago.
Bits from another TC member I can pass off,but a package with Mardave's address on it is a lot more difficult.
Since I've been made redundant she watches the post like a hawk just incase there's an offer of a job for me.
Ah, can't help you there then, good luck with the job hunting though
-
This may be a silly question but have you tried Mardave?
http://www.mardaveracing.com/index.htm
Cheers
-
-
-
Ok, my clear out is continuing, reluctantly now have the following cars for sale:
Tamiya Holiday Buggy
This has been cleaned up and rebuilt with new bushings and topped off with a Tamiya Club repro decal set (the unused decals will be included)
The rear tyres fitted aren't standard but a decent pair of the proper rear tyres will be included in the sale. The original front bumper was missing so has been replaced with a brand new period Proline replacement, that uses the original mounting holes.
Usual wear expected for the age, however the chassis is not damaged and is in good condition.
It's got the optional 540 motor upgrade plate and two acoms servos are fitted, just charge up the 5 cell 1300mah nicd pack, stick in a receiver and batteries and you're ready to go!
If you have any questions please ask - please PM me with offers. Thanks
Associated RC10 T3 - Sold
Losi XX4 - Sold
Kyosho Optima Mid - Sold
-
Sorry, didn't know why you'd started the thread
-
I'm sure that this was written by Tamiya's marketing department for them Terry, rather than an objective historian!!
-
Thanks. good luck finding a shell
-
Sorry for the bad photos! Here it is fitted on my TA05.
The wheels are temporary! The headlights and grills are actually sprayed on by the guy that does my shells, not the decals you get with it.
-
Race Night 3 – The Crystal Capers….
I would like to swap to different frequencies 40mhz, 2.4ghz etc., when I can get my head around it as there appears to be more gear out there available. It all felt a little twitchy at times and I put down to interference, so if anyone has any guidance or recommendations it would be greatly received.
My target for my final installment is to start and finish every race, regardless of where I come position wise. All in All another great night.
Oh and does anyone recommend a decent pit hauler box, there appears to be lots of styles and designs but I can’t find a range of them anywhere on the internet. I have for years used a Stanley roller tool box job from B&Q, which is OK and other people have them but it gets all my kit in and not the spares which I have to carry in a separate bag
Glad it's going well for you know, I'm another stick user, just can't get on with pistols.
I would recomend going straight to 2.4ghz when you change as it's wonderful not having to worry about crystals ever again!
I use an old toolbox that has handy compartments, but will one day change back to a polybutler.
Just keep enjoying the racing no matter what your results are!
-
no problem, will try this weekend.
-
This is where I got mine from, it's a Hot Bodies.
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?Call...mp;ItemID=29796
comes with neat little decals for the lights and grill and window masks too
-
I would like to see a Competition grade 2WD off road racing buggy. A 2WD thats equal to the TRF 501X 4WD.
Definitely, something that would leave the x6 behind!
Wanted - Rc10 Gold Or Black Pan
in Trade Archive
Posted
Sorted