Malakite
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Posts posted by Malakite
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Hi mate and firstly GOOD LUCK!! Secondly I would try and have a 'Marui' section. These are still very popular amongst us enthusiasts and I know that a lot of us have trouble with parts in the UK, so that could be a good and option for you
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If one wheel spins, the diff is working. All the diff gears will be active if one wheel is spinning so to me it sounds like the diff is ok.
But, if it is very worn, and very loose, it may easily transfer power to one wheel only when the rear is off the ground.
How easy is it to turn one wheel and make the other spin in the opposite direction? A good monster beetle diff won't rotate too easily, and if you spin one wheel and then let go, the wheels should both stop (unlike a grasshopper diff for example, where the wheels spin for ages!)
If the diff rotates very easily then it is worn, and the gearbox side plates may also be bent (did you replaced them recently anyway?)
The only other cause would be the axle in one of the trailing arms. It could be binding due to wear, bad bearings or the wheel being too tight on a worn wheel mount. The drive shafts could also be worn and locking up, if they are the original hex type.
CA glue (super glue) will secure the tyres. Just use a very small amount in a few places inside the rim so you can still pull the tyre off if needed.
Hi mate and thanks for the response. The diff is nice and tight like you say, its impossible to spin when you stop turning the wheels so thats good news I guess. In response to your other question, the pin through the diff is also in place, and the hex axles seem to also be fine too, nice and tight. Any other ideas?
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Hi guys I am hoping you may be able to help.
I have recently purchased a Monster Beetle from ebay (VERY exciting!!) and have started fixing it up and rebuilding it etc. I have an issue in that I have built the gearbox twice, yet for some reason it seems very smooth when I check it before sticking the motor in and and the wheels on, yet once I run it in mid air (i.e. wheels off the floor to check it) only one wheel goes round. When I manually twist one wheel the opposite appears to turn the opposite direction which to me indicates that the diff is working, but clearly there is a problem! I am sure one of you Monster Beetle gurus will be able to tell me instantly!!
Also I notice that a couple of tyres slip round their hubs, so whats the best glue to use for this type of thing?!
Many thanks
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Hi tommy, welcome to the forum
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Hi guys, thanks for all the help. I have been away for a few weeks and only just sat down to complete my Lunchbox upgrades
You won't believe this but for some reason I am missing enough of the following:BA6
BA2
15mm Screws
BD1
The copper
You would have thought they come with the upgraded shocks but they don't!! Anyway I'm ordering srewbag A and screwbag D to get the screws needed, so all should soon be in place!!
Also I wondered if I purchased the optional lights for the Lunchbox shell, if it's possible that they would be compatible with a new Speed controller as mine is a Lunchbox re-re and the manual says that you need to connect them to the old speed controller? Any ideas? I'm sure you guys know a way around it!!
Many thanks
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The other is perfect NIB and is shrinkwrapped.
- James
Can I ask - are you keeping this shrinkwrapped for yourself, or to keep in immaculate condition to sell at a later date?
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Put me down for the Monster Beetle as well. As for why it attracts a following, well there are reasons but its also personal taste. It has a cross-market appeal being tied to VW which has a strong following. At the time of its inception, The MB was the top of the line Tamiya monster. It had most of the goodies in the kit with exception of bearings and the Technigold. Retro folks like the old touches like yellow CVA shocks and gold plated wheels. Like the Lunch Box, the MB was topped with a "different" body than the run-of-mill pickup truck that most monsters got. Just a few reasons that come to mind.
Well said
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Thanks guys. I really pray they re-re the Monster Beetle but from what I hear it's very unlikey to happen
I have just purchased a second hand Monster Beetle from Ebay and look forward to getting it by the weekend for a full rebuild then use Well maybe not full rebuild I won't be able to wait I'm sure -
Hi guys, am I right in thinking that the old Blackfoot is exactly the same as the old Monster Beetle but for the shell and tyres??
Furthermore is the King Blackfoot basically just an uprated version of the old Blackfoot?
Thanks
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Still don't see it!!!
How very DARE you!! hehe
Seriously though I guess it's just down to personal taste at the end of the day?
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OK so am I right in thinking that the Kind Blackfoot was basically just an uprated version of the old Blackfoot, which was of course (I think) exactly the same as the old Monster Beetle but for the shell?
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Sorry don't mean to start a duplicate but I've searched right back to May and I can't see where the thread went about what cars you still want to see released again!
Mine (for ever!) has been the Monster Beetle! I couldn't resist waiting any more and have purchased a second hand one from ebay (not cheap!!) but I need my fix!! I would love to build one again from NIB though and think that if Tamiya do get their act together anr re-re this beauty, they would make a killing as there are loads of guys that would buy it I'm sure!! The question is, what's stopping them?!!
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Does anyone know where I may be able to get hold of a Marui Galaxy chassis from?
Thanks!
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Your LB kit should have some small metal brackets included, spring mount part BP1 in an original & BS1 in a re re.
Part number is 9805082. You need 6 to fit CVA's all round or just 2 if you're only fitting them to the rear.
Check page 17 of the manual if you have a re re or download the option part supplement from Modelbuild.
I'm confused - Page 17 doesnt have any info on the hop ups? Also yes it's a re-re and I can't see info on Part No.9805082. So you are saying I need part 'BS1'?? These do not come with the re-re and that I need to order 6 of them, part No.9805082 is that correct? Thanks
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Make the rears as soft as possible, just so they have enough force to stop the suspension sagging. The truck has a lot of un-sprung weight at the back so softer shocks are needed to compensate.
The fronts needs to be more of a medium balance to stop chassis roll
You'll notice a good improvement over those standard pogo stick shocks what ever option you choose!
Brilliant thanks guys, well I built my Tamiya CVA Short Shock Unit Set II #50520 DT-02 DT02 Shocks, to then discover they are TOTALLY different in design from the Lunchbox shocks and I can't fit them!!!
]Can someone PLEASE PLEASE explain to me how on earth these are supposed to fit to the Lunchbox? They are the recommended hop ups for the car yet you can't fit them, TOTALLY different design
Thanks
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Hi guys, I have now received my uprated shocks for my LB and just wondered what the best setting was to use to enable the best / smoothest running of it? I have soft and hard springs to choose from as well as three different choices of plastic rings that go inside the shocks that make the shocks harder of softer (the pieces with the holes in them - more holes = softer suspension etc!).
Any advice would be great, cheers
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Hi guys, I have now received my uprated shocks for my LB and just wondered what the best setting was to use to enable the best / smoothest running of it? I have soft and hard springs to choose from as well as three different choices of plastic rings that go inside the shocks that make the shocks harder of softer (the pieces with the holes in them - more holes = softer suspension etc!).
Any advice would be great, cheers
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Monster Beetle PLEASEEEEEEE!!! Does anyone know either way when Tamiya are likely to release then next re-re?
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Yup - front and rear shocks are the same - you need two of the items listed above which makes it kind of expensive - hence I said hold out for some Monster Beetle or CVA short shocks if you can.
The 'box is never going to be a great handler - but these eliminate a lot of the "boinginess" of the standard rubbish
OK great thanks. So do you have any hop-ups on yours?
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Keep an eye out on eBay for a set of Monster Beetle shocks - otherwise known as "CVA Short Shocks" - if you want to buy new search for this "Tamiya 50520 CVA Short Shock Unit Set II" but remember you will need TWO of these for a whole set on a Lunchbox...
Hi there, I forgot to ask, do I need two sets as one set is front and back shocks whereas for the lunchbox I need 4 X rear shocks is that correct? Also are these the shocks that Tamiya describe as hop-ups on their Lunchbox box?
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Awesome - does anyone know just how much of a difference these shocks make when using the car?
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That's brilliant thanks guys, i'll start my long search now! Thank so much for all of your help as always
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I swapped my motor cables round and it goes in reverse fine, but stutters forwards, so my theory works
How bizzare! Thanks
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Yup, switch motor cables iirc. Had that problem with my new RS, had to double tap forwards to go forwards. Iswapped motor cables around and now it does it in reverse, which is great, cos reverse is for getting out of the poop only
But won't swapping the motor wires round just cause it to go backwards when I push forwards and vise versa?
You won't believe this but for some reason I am missing enough of the following:
I have just purchased a second hand Monster Beetle from Ebay and look forward to getting it by the weekend for a full rebuild then use 
Monster Beetle Gearbox Help Required!
in General discussions
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Thanks Terry, brilliant at least that means I can take her for a test drive tomorrow
Thanks everyone for your help, fingers crossed she goes 