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Everything posted by bRIBEGuy

  1. That's peak voltage, and will drop off VERY quick when run. You're sitting at 1.445v & 1.5v/cell, which is high, but not abnormal for a higher capacity NiMh sub-C pack.
  2. I find the newer "Lack" floating wall shelves to be really flimsy if any real weight is on them. I'm a big fan of the IVAR stuff, and use it for my RC collection in my basement. Very sturdy and can take a large amount of weight without issue. The larger shelves (83x50cm) fit two buggies VERY nicely on a nice display angle, or 3 buggies straight on. 3 touring/rally cars will fit at a nice angle as well. The small 42x50cm shelves fit one buggy or car nicely. The downsides of the system is that it can get dusty (as with any "open" shelf system), and that since the pine is untreated, it doesn't take to dirt well (as in it does take the dirt, and soaks it into the wood).
  3. Every once and a while, selling off a kit haunts you a bit. I've had a few of those over the years, and one was definitely my NIB Tamiya Lancia 037 (58278). I've been D-R-A-G-G-I-N-G my feet on picking up the newer 58654 TA02S variant, but finally pulled the trigger. I'm 90% sure I'm going to swap everything back onto a TA03RS chassis... but time will tell...
  4. He quoted me $270usd + shipping on The Manta Ray
  5. Import tax/duty/brokerage fees are payable at the time of delivery, not at the time of shipment. Unless you use FedEx or or UPS, who have a nasty habit of billing you weeks to months AFTER receiving your shipment. I'd say I have been hit with import fee's from Tamico probably 3/4 orders. Never really paid much attention to it as I'm essentially just paying the tax I owe, and an extra $40 on a kit + parts seemed reasonable. I think they usually ship (to Canada) via DHL, which is usually quite quick. I'm sure you'll end up ahead on this one @F-150.
  6. Nice. I like when people transfer themes between multiple vehicles. I ran the same livery on a Clod race truck, my old M03R carpet racer, and a clod-based rock crawler for quite a while. Love seeing them next to each other.
  7. TD4 doesn't get a lot of love, but I think it's a great car. Very "Tamiya" as you pointed out earlier. I have ordered a number of kits from Tamico, and yes, often they do end up being $50-$100 cheaper than locally, even after big(ish) shipping and duty fees. They are a great retailer to deal with, IMO.
  8. Shipping costs are generally relative to where you are located. And the days of free/cheap shipping are pretty much LONG gone. Many of the big online stores (RC Mart/Tamico/Stella/RXJaz/AsiaTees/Etc) are located in Asia/Europe. So it's MUCH cheaper to order from them if you to are in Asia/Europe (as many here are). For those of us in places like Canada/ USA/ Australia, etc, it's hard to find cheap shipping from these places because of the giant oceans and massive distances the packages needs to travel. Tamico is 7500km (4700mi) from my house, so it's a near miracle to me that they can ship a kit here for under $100. You might not like the shipping price, but it's not bad value, and no one is making you pay it. RC Mart used to have DIRT cheap shipping to North America once upon a time, but those days are long gone and now it just is what it is. I used to be able to ship a kit across North America for $35, and now it's $60+ within the country I'm in (Canada). I'm sure there are a bunch of people in Asia who wish they could cash in on Tower Hobbies points and big sales, but can't due to their location (and TH's general hesitancy to ship outside of the USA). It's the proverbial "grass is always greener" scenario. There are lots of threads on here about the actual (landed) cost of kits, and in reality the closer to production/distribution you are, the cheaper the product is. Simple math. If you think being in the USA is bad, you should try buying stuff in Canada or Australia.
  9. I think drifting has now progressed to the point where you are better off just buying a proper modern drift car. TT-01: $150 MRC Kit: $92 So you're looking at $242 (give or take), without modding or upgrading anything else. MST and Redcat both have drift specific cars for similar/less (or more...) money. Just my 2 cents...
  10. Very cool. Interesting use of ACM.
  11. Sand drag IS a thing yes. I think it's bigger in the middle east (UAE) with both Slash-based rigs and a lot of bigger 1/5 scale stuff.
  12. Some Boomerangs have landed in Canada! Interesting that this re-release doesn't have the date on the box like a lot of the others, and that it's using the older CVA shocks.
  13. Excited to have this one back in the collection...
  14. Are you trying to make a rockcrawler out of one of them? The gears are pretty beefy... but the cars are not without their weak spots depending on your driving/plan...
  15. I ordered a bunch of stuff that I "need".....LOL. Part of me feels like it may have been a bit of retail therapy after NOT placing an order with MCI Racing over the weekend. 20% off sale.... cool! Couple of motor stickers in cart, plus a single sticker sheet means.... WHAT!?!? $25/$35 for shipping withing Canada? NOPE!!!
  16. I've only taken it out a few times so far, one of which run DEFINITELY defined the street in front of my house as too small.... ha ha ha! Relatively near to where I am is a bit of an industrial area, and they have some pretty huge lots and truck loading bays that mainly sit unused on Sundays. That's been a pretty good run location so far. The scale really is hard to grasp unless you see it in person. The "tiny electronics" in the car are huge. That's a 1/4scale steering servo. The motor is roughly the size of a can of soda. The tires make 1:10 monster truck tires look small, and "normal" 1:10 tires seem tiny.
  17. Thanks! I thought I had a bunch of chassis shots, but this is the only one I found: Guess I'll have to take some more... The car is pretty much mechanical art, IMO. It reminds me of a Tamiya Avante in that way... both cars offer a lot of enjoyment in just looking at the materials and engineering. Let me know if you have any more questions!
  18. Some of those catch my eye... game to ship to Canada?
  19. You and me both! I see a lot of people picking these up to kit-bash the BH HS2 into more of an actual HS2 in the period of time before Tamiya inevitably re-releases the actual HS2. Me? I have some NOS SuperSabre stickers that will just make this wacky beauty that little bit better...
  20. LiPo FTW! I've had good luck with Gens Ace & Power Hobby LiPo's in recent years. Used to run a lot of MaxAmps & some Venom stuff. Part of what you get will depend on where you are (I'm sure popular brands in the UK are different than in North America), what your budget is, and what spec's you are after. Size and weight of LiPo's can vary a lot, so make sure you know what you are putting where before clicking the buy button. Brushless stuff will be a can of worms, and will largely be dependent on $$$ and expectations. I have had good luck with Tekin and Castle Creations previously, but now seem to be running more and more Hobby Wing stuff as it seems to be a nice balance of performance and cost. I'll use Tamiya motors once and a while, but generally only if there is a reason (space constraints for solder tabs in a TD2/4 as an example) as they tend to be more money and lower performance than a lot of what is out there. I'd sooner run a good ESC and a cheapo motor than the other way around. There are lots of "decent" off brand motors out there that work quite well if you're just goofing around (read, not racing). I have a SkyRC charger as well (T1000), and it has been pretty good. To be honest I liked the programmable memory of my old Hyperion charger more, but what can you do? Dual charging ability is nice, but NOT required. And therein lies the issue with asking for advice without setting boundaries.... ha ha ha! All joking aside, figure out what you want to spend (and also what you are willing to spend), what charging requirements you have, and then look around and see what fits the bill. I recently upgraded from my old Hyperion charger (which was expensive at the time, but worth every cent), and my list personally looked like this: Need: -Ability to charge NiMh, LiPo, & LiFe -Ability to do a storage charge/discharge Want: -Ability to charge LiHV -Dual charge capability -Programmable battery memory -AC/DC power options -Price under $200cad High charge/discharge rates weren't of much importance to me (I don't race anymore, so I usually just use a 1C rate), but often are a sell point of chargers. In the end I landed on the SkyRC T1000, which was notably more money than I wanted to spend. It had everything I needed, and wanted (aside from programmable battery memory), had a good reputation, and seemed like a solid choice. Alternately there were other chargers that were a bit cheaper, but didn't check off as many items for me. So in the end, I saved up some extra $$$ over a month or two, and picked it up. I've only been using it for a few months now, but so far it's been working well (though I do need to figure out a balance lead extension so I can get my LiPo's back into a charging sack...).
  21. I think this is exactly a case of "you get what you pay for". A good quality phone/laptop/e-bike etc uses good quality cells, and charging/monitoring systems with reliable technology. The same is true in the RC world, where a good quality brand name LiPo and charger will very likely have no issues. BUT....... lots of people don't want to spend good money on good batteries for their RC. So to save a buck, they dip into the Amazon/AliExpress offerings which do not always have solid backgrounds, and then complain when something goes wrong. I'm not saying all cheap stuff is bad (nor the opposite), but if you are worried about the "risk of LiPo", then the setup you purchase should NOT be your penny pinching point. AT least that's my 2 cents... Over discharging is unlikely to create a fire, directly, yes. It can lead to cells "puffing" quite badly (which I have had happen). The same can happen if the current draw is more then the pack can produce (40C load on a 20C pack, for example). If it's a soft-case pack, that puffing can lead to a cell puncture from something else in the car, and that can lead to a fire. It's still pretty unlikely (and again, falls under the category of user error/misuse, IMO), but it certainly can happen.
  22. ^^^ THIS! There is a hypocritical and irrational fear of LiPo batteries. People are fine with them in phones, computers, tablets, camera's, flashlights, powertools, etc, but as soon as it's in an RC car....... WATCH OUT, IT'S A BOMB! I just don't get it. (Sorry, not trying to derail this thread, nor spark yet another LiPo debate...)
  23. Yup, that sounds about right. Plus they have a much steeper discharge curve, so you're really only getting "full power" for a brief period at the beginning of a run. Swapping a decent quality NiMh pack (3700mah) with a crappy 20c 3300Lipo in the same car is a NIGHT AND DAY difference when I've done it. Using a better LiPo makes that even more apparent. Part of the hobby is learning. And part of learning is making mistakes! Any of us who claim to have never goofed up are clearly lying!
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