Jump to content

Mighty flex

Members
  • Content Count

    211
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Mighty flex

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Penryn, UK
  1. Hi all My crazy plan for a hybrid Hornet with modern buggy front never really got beyond a rough test with some old grey PVC sheet. It drove but not brilliantly... So here is anything Hornet related I have + An old radio + Academy Griffin Pro Alloy shocks and front suspension. I am not 100% on the origins of all the parts - It is not all 100% Original Tamiya Hornet, though decals and manual are I think. £45 + post for the lot. Or If anything takes you fancy, make me an offer for specific stuff, though I'll give a few days as a lot before splitting. Paypal or cash on collection (Penryn, Cornwall) only. There should be plenty to make a compete Hornet Chassis, but No motor/battery, and the body and tyres are shot. One of the chassis + some parts I beleive are from an Academy Roadrunner such as the chassis with parts attached. Radio- battery contacts in TX are knackered (I think it works but will need sorting out) but the rest worked last time I tried (incl servos) Comes with original green xtals, not shown in the pic. Tamiya #53913 12mm hex adapters for a lot of the older cars Broken chassis adapted (badly) to take Academy Griffin front suspension + mount . Full set of Griffin shocks. Original set of decals + manual in ok condition Tamiya chassis, Roadrunner Chassis (80s hornet copy) with various Tamiya bits+ Acoms servos attached, knackered body Lots of bits. + anything else vaguely related I find gets thrown in too. Any questions about is/ isn't there or anything else, contact me please. Cheers Found a load more stuff. This should be it. Painted battery door, Wheel hubs, shocks, motor plates (maybe good for different gearing) a sad looking driver and a few other bits (some are from a Lunchbox maybe) A few more gearbox hinges etc + I think brand new gear set, and some front hubs+ random.
  2. Servos Sold. Other stuff may be going on ebay tomorrow
  3. Hi all Got these from a colleague, He had obtained them many years ago, as a curiosity more than anything, and has dry stored them since. I believe the majority dates from the 70s/80s. I don't a great deal about any of it. If you know anything about them or who might be after such items, your input would be much appreciated. Also included was a very nice OS rotary engine, but I plan to keep that I have been unable to test the electronics due to the connector type(s). I haven't cleaned anything up, so its all a bit grubby. So what I'll do is give a pic of everything, and If any of it interests you, make me an offer. Will post worldwide. I make no promises about if these items work or not, I can only tell you what I see. If you want to know anything, I will strive to answer your questions. PDP 61 - Compression, no carb, mounts have been hacked about a bit. OS MAX 15 - Compression, includes bits shown, look unmolested but grubby. OS 40SR in bits - spares of repair. Looks pretty sad. Daishin RX + male connector with lead Assorted old servos: SOLD Assorted exhausts, bits Thanks Happy new year!
  4. Compagnucci and Pirate 10 Still available. Make me an offer! you know you want too...
  5. Hi guys, long time no post for me. 84 pages of unread posts. Uni has been distracting me. Anyway I have far too many cars and not enough room. and I need a real car for a job, so sacrifices must be made. Going up on here for a bit then to ebay... Located in Cornwall, UK First up is a Compagnucci Petrol Saxo. is 1/8 scale - similar to Superten cars. Basically a long wheel base 1/10 buggy dimension. A very interesting and unusual model that uses a 6.28cc petrol motor, that can also be run on regular nitro glow fuel if you so wish. The chassis is in great condition, having only been run a few times. The engine started fine recently, and ran well, though will need fine tuning for best performance. The foam tyres are beginning to split, but still have lots of grip, and are not very worn at The rechargeable battery pack is a bit old, and could do with replacing (just 2x 4.8v AA 4cell packs heatshrinked together). I forgot to add: the rear diff is a little lumpy, but has been as ong as I can remember - I don't think its a problem. The body shell is very good, with no damage, though some decals are peeling, and there are a few marks to some decals. These are fast machines, but have high gearing and really need to have a large flat space to stretch their legs - speeds of nearly 60mph are claimed, but around 50 is more realistic. One 125cc tank of 50:1 petrol-oil mix lasts for 30-40 mins, and the fan cooled engine sound much less annoying than it's nitro equivalents. The spark is controlled by a small box next to the engine. There are two battery packs - one for the spark and one for the radio. All that is required to run is a radio (transmitter and receiver), petrol and two stroke oil. If you need a radio I can supply a basic used set for a reasonable price. Parts are probably still available from a few places on the net, but It is getting difficult. What you see in the pictures is what you get. I have a manual and some papers which are included but not shown. I do not have the original carry bag or tools/charger. £75 + P&P Next up is a Kyosho Delta I bought it with the intention of fitting the shell to one of my 4wd buggies, but the size wheelbase and track work out quite right. I have decided I can't really justify having so many cars, so something has to go! Based on the 2wd raider chassis, kyosho released a series of cars on this chassis in the early nineties, such as the RS500 and this Delta, which is a lot less common than the Ford. The design is simple and sturdy, but to be honest, dynamically it is not great and would be transformed by some decent oil shocks and springs. This car looks to have only been run a handful of times, as there are only very few scratches on the underside, and the tyres are almost unworn. The tyres have gone hard with time and offer very little grip now. The original bright white coating on the wheels has peeled in places, exposing bare nylon, but this is not very noticeable (more obvious than my pic suggests) The shell is good, with just one (repaired) crack at the front left corner, though the decals have peeled and the painting is not great. The paint is strong but there is some over spray on the windows and edges have been masked poorly. That said there are repro decals available on ebay as well as origianl replacment shells. With a bit of work and new decals, it would look great as a runner. I have rebuilt the car, and everything is as it should be - one or two screws are not original, and one bolt is longer than the original (it just sticks up a little more). When rebuilding, all origninal bushings were replaced with ball bearings (metal sheilded on internal parts and rubber on external parts such as wheel hubs), and thick grease was added to the diff to give some limited slip effect. The whole car runs very smoothly. Included are two futaba servos for the speed control and steering. There is no manual, but one for a similar model can be found at this address: http://www.retromodelisme.com/manuels_page...e2b4c3a768aea87 All that is required to run is a radio (transmitter and receiver) and a 7.2v battery (please note kyosho seem to use their connecters the other way around - there is a female Tamiya connector on the speed control for some reason). If you need any of these things I can supply a basic used set for a reasonable price. Parts are shared with many other Kyosho models, and can usually be found on ebay. What you see in the pictures is what you get. SOLD Finally my trusty Pirate 10 monster. I have had it for 8 years from new, and not been run a huge amount. Whenever it is run, it brings a smile to my face as it cartwheels its way into the undergrowth Really very fast with 21 engine. insane if you fit anything powerful... in the 60mph range with a basic hyper 21. A barely controllable missile... but that's part of the fun! Rolling chassis with some parts (all the bits that break when you get it wrong) and two acoms servos. I also have a mostly complete pirate 10 buggy chassis (blue alloy) that may be of use for spares, but not all parts are shared - THis can be included for an extra £10 Comes with a Monster Energy stickered HPI Chevy shell (I don't think i have ever run it with this shell). Looks great from a distance, but there are a few scratches, and the decals are not the best - a few are slightly ripped, but this is not noticeable when its running. I also have the roiginal shell (chrome paint has peeled off) and a butchered Tamiya Alfa GTA to fit (not pictured) I'm quite happy to hold onto it as a project - The addition of a wheely bar would be my first step... £65 + P+P Thanks Felix
  6. mine will happily run 11.1v on 4000kv off road all day.
  7. Hi I need anything suitable for the four upper arms and the 2 steering arms (between steering assembly and hubs) for a Tamiya TB01 chassis. Any serviceable condition is good for me. I don't know what the exact lengths needed are so I'm not quite sure what to look for. Thanks for any help Felix
  8. quoting a message from almost 8 years ago- is that a tamiyaclub record?
  9. To do it properly would probably cost more than a new car, and the sand viper isn't a great base for a stadium truck given the gearing. new wheels, tyres, shocks would set you back as much as an ansmann macnum (£45) for example! otherwise, you could use tamiya stadium thunder or similar wheels (front and rear) which have the right fitting to start with for both ends (i assume they should clear the suspension)
  10. it shows 7.4 because there is no load - the multimeter maybe pulls 0.0001A which cause no drop in the voltage. If you look a full bat will show around 8 or more. Testing the voltage under load- maybe when connected to a motor, or something, is more accurate. You will then notice that a flat battery will show a very low voltage. The relationship between charge and voltage is not linear though - http://shdesigns.org/batts/battcyc.html - this page may give you an idea of how the voltage varies as the battery discharges.
  11. Hi guys, wheels and tyres that may be interesting new in pack stuff, UK first class post included in price, add 50p for Europe, £1 for Rest of world. Payment by paypal gift. Thanks HPI 3717 Gray Mesh wheels 26mm £5.50 for 2 pairs (4 wheels) Thunder Tiger PD0855 mesh grey 26mm £5.50 for 2 pairs (4 wheels) F201 Type A tyres front + rear £15 (apparently £55.98 from a shop! ) HPI F5 truck front wheels in either Chrome or Gunmetal, £4
  12. brushless will be more efficient for a given speed, with the flexability of being able to put more volts through the same motor to get more speed. almost zero mantainance as well with brushless. for a slightly higher initial outlay, you will save money over time.
  13. I would say its worth going for somthing a bit modern - the better handling means you will be able to run circles around the nitros in corners, and you will be able to focus on driving the right lines instead of controlling the **** dytnamics of the car... i have a df02 and i find it fine, very tough (apart from the rear suspension mount on the chassis, though this takes a sepcial sort of collision to break, and only happend when my friend crashed mine into a wall) and relatively simple build. The dt02 is basically a 2wd equivelent. neither are extremely quick in the ocrners compared to the DB01 durga, which i would get if i actually used my rc cars much (or raced)
×
×
  • Create New...