Biggins

Hi, not been on here for a while with no old Tamiyas but I do have an HPI Trophy Truggy Flux to sell. The car is completely standard. It hasn't had much use as can be seen in the photos. The car has the 2.4GHz radio gear. Not much to say about the car that the photos don't already show. It will come with two 5000mah 2S lipos, with 40C discharge rate, and a basic lipo charger. So everything to get going. I am looking for £300 for the lot. I hope this is the right price given the cost new and the condition of the car. Cheers Chris

Hi, I'm selling my daughters Tamiya Mad Bull. I bought this car for my son for his 5th birthday, it was then passed to my daughter, who of course insisted it was painted purple. It is a great beginners car, the large tyres and tough construction have mad it, in our use, unbreakable. It has the standard motor in it, although I have put a much upgraded electronic speed controller in, a Nosram Magnum Reverse. The speed controller would take a much quicker motor. Even with the standard motor the car wheelspins aways and is quite able to do donuts. It comes with the Futaba radio gear, two batteries and some spares, including and spare chassis. Please note the batteries are fitted with Deans connectors. This just means you will need the appropriate lead on a charger. I have not included a charger. Bad Point - the two front tyres are showing their age and have started to split, so you will need at some point to put new ones on. I am looking for £55 posted, Thanks Chris

Now on Ebay

For Sale is my Yokomo Nissan 200 Drift Car. The car is in reasonable condition, some marking underneath, body is in good condition and is mounted on velcro so no body post holes. The worst bit is the wheels and the paint that has come off. Please see photos for full condition. Car comes with steering servo and a pinion. All other electrics have been removed. 70 ono posted Paypal preferred Cheers Chris http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture013.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture014.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture011.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture012.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture010.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture008.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/bi.../Picture009.jpg

My first thought was the nylock nut, so I replaced that and bought some HD metal out shafts. The diff used to be nice and free but without slipping. Could the spring be compressed? when I built the diff from new it was hard to get the bolt to thread in the nut, I had to push against the spring. It threads really easy now. Also the bearing that the bolt head presses up against if a really tight fit in the out put shaft. It could be that this is stopping the halves of the bearing turning seprately, this would undo the bolt. What do you think. I have ordered a slipper clutch and a one way set for the front. Then I can use the front diff to rebuild the rear

Having problems with the rear diff in a Keen Hawk. The car wasn't going well, on investigation all the drive was lost at the rear. The diff had come loose. When I stripped it on one side the flat plate that goes against the bearings had slipped on the drive piece. It put this right and rebuilt the diff. I then noticed that as I turned the drive cup on the bolt side that the bolt undid. I have replaced the nylock nut thinking this ma be at fault. I also bought some HD drive bits from Stella. By drive bits I mean the parts the bolt goes through and has the drive cups on the outer end. It is still doing this. Either I really do the bolt up tight and have a locked diff or the bolt undoes and loose drive. Any Ideas? I read alot that the ball diff is easy to break with a hotter motor in the car. I have a slipper clutch on back order. When people say it is easy to break, exactly what breaks? Could this be what I have done?

I have normally been supportive of any local shop, use it or lose type of thing. Not anymore. Paid 240 for an esavage from one of my local shops. Online at the time was 225 delivered. No problem I thought, if I want the local place to be there when I need spares I should support them. Broke a part, went to local shop "sorry, we don't stock spares for that model, we can order it for you, it'll be about a week". Ordered it online, arrived in a couple of days and cheaper than the local shop. It seems if I want ready supply of spares I should have bought the model on line in the first place. I'm not going to get started on the friendlyness of the staff!!

Just for balance I have had 2 lrp Runners (the new smaller waterproof ones) go up in smoke and melt. I have also had one Mtroniks stop working. Both companies replaced them FOC

Any one tried an MTroniks Black heat motor? I was thinking of putting a 17T triple in my DF03

Thanks guys Had a look at the Peak Racing motor, it seems to be the same as the Orion Element. I was unsure about this motor or the Reedy 19T Spec Quad Mag. Any thoughts or experiences? How do these compare to the Tamiya BZ?

I want to get a new motor for my sons df03 keen hawk. It was running some old 18 & 17 turn motors I had. They have now died so I put a Venom 15T in it. However this isn't working well. The car doesn't accelerate as quickly as it should, I can hear the speed build up as it runs up the tarmac road. Only after a very short time the motor is really hot. This suggests to me that the gearing is to tall. I have two options I guess, 1 change the gearing (not to clever with that) 2, get different motor. I would be happy to spend about 30. I was thinking about the Tamiya Super Stock BZ. Are there any other motors for a similar price that would do the job? We only use the car for bashing not racing

Got a new Super Truck, 60 posted. See my post in this forum for link to picture. It is NIP

Thanks for the responses, but against all advice above I bought an E-Savage. Main reason being that I have all my lhs's are HPI dealers, none had the e-maxx and I didn't see any other traxxas stuff in anyway. The result of that is support for lhs and ready supplies for when I break it. Other reason was friends nitro Savage is so tough and the e-maxx just didn't look as strong in the pics. Anyway, I am really pleased with the e-savage, it will wheelie from a standstill, is stable in turns (if a bit wide turns at speed), jumps well and keeps bouncing off stuff. So thanks for the responses, even if I didn't listen

The Wild Dagger has now sold. Desert Gator - now sold M Troniks speedo, as described above, make me an offer, I'm thinking about 60

bfst24 - Reading other posts you put some 550's/600's in a dagger typr twin battery chassis? Any pics?