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About sirandy

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  • Birthday 01/22/1971

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    Dubai, UAE

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  1. A Loooooong time since I posted on TC, feel bad, but I have a little boy of nearly 4, and since he was born.....backseat to the RC hobby! :-) Anyway, now that he is old enough, and absolutely LOVES cars, I thought I would get him something to mess around with in the dirt. The XV-01 seems like it would be the nicest option, either that, or the MF-01x. If anyone has one of the above, let me know. I would prefer to buy a used one if there is one about, as although I would get a lot of satisfaction building either, the little boy would probably like to get it up and running asap. Appreciate any responses and advice. Regards, Andy
  2. Ritchie, I was thinking in the region of 80 pounds, but I need to get it to the UK, and I also want to see if I can figure out what was cannibalised from the kit. I need to go through all the parts bags and see. I know they SHOULD all be sealed, but if there is an open one, I will find whats missing and try to complete it. Regards
  3. No Problem mate, hope you get lots of enjoyment out of it. Are you going to run it or put it on the shelf? My plan was originally to give it some light running, which I did, and then use the other body to sit on the shelf. I will make sure to get the manual to the UK next time, and send it over to you.
  4. Aynar, they don't come with bodies. I have a few bodies that are NIB but they would be sold seperately. i also have a SumoPower GTR body that has been painted box art. It has a very basic light kit. The one great feature of this, is that I managed to paint a dullcote over the top of the shell so it has a matte finish. Obviously light buckets and windows are not matte. I carefully cut the overspray film before painting the outside.
  5. I dunno what they are worth, but was thinking around 80quid, delivered? Not sure what they are worth....am I deluded?
  6. Hey Guys, Apologies for not getting back to you sooner, a couple of personal matters came up that have kept me busy... So, on to the responses that I got, first for the F201. As mentioned previously, it was run a few times and then ignored. I dug it out and went over it. It is complete, but it has a silvercan instead of the black can that comes with the kit. There is no ESC but there is an entry level HiTec servo. It will be included as anyone who has built one of these, will know it is almost a complete teardown to get to the servo. I had to redo the rear IFS suspension, but it is back to stock, the way it should be. It never ceases to amaze me, the amount of engineering that went into this model, it really is a triumph of tech in a RC car. Its such a shame the 4WD F1 scene never took off, but they were 'rolling the dice' on a concept that was never going to wash with the purists. Still, its just a fascinating piece of kit. The body is there, but was never painted very well, but will pass as a runner as it is not broken anywhere. Its just an amateur paint job. The sale will include an NIB Ferrari F2001 bodykit, that could be the 'shelf queen'. The spare parts that comes with it are some pillow ball connectors for the suspension, a set of reinforced arms and a set of tires that were a 'softer' hop up in the day. The TB Evo IV's are now both in their boxes. All the original parts are in the box, apart from one car that is missing the heatsink for the motor. I used a heatsink with a fan on it, due to the high temps here. I think it was salvaged for use in another vehicle at some point. One of the cars grenaded the front diff at some point, and was replaced by a oneway setup. Both cars have either a ball diff, or one-way/spool option. I think that the plastic crown and pinions on these cars was a weak point, so I stocked up on them, both cars have some spares. There are tons of spares in the box, I just divided them up equally between cars. The best thing I bought for them was the Year Racing Alu diff joint set. THe original cars came with PLASTIC outdrives, and these were notorious for opening up and spilling the axles, the alloy ones were brilliant. Both cars have a set included. I found some old pics of one of the cars assembled. They are now both completely disassembled in their boxes, and cleaned all the tape/residue off them. One has a few more scratches on the bottom than the other, but they are both good chassis', not cracked or broken anywhere.
  7. The FF03 is in the UK at the moment, I will get some pics for you at the end of the month, I don't want big money for it, but would like a fair price to suit us both. EDIT, I found this pic before I returned it to stock, it doesn't have the shocks on it, the stock ones are on and of course the ESC, servo are not there. Motor is no a GT-tuned motor The F201 is here with me, so will get some pics up this weekend.
  8. Hey guys, Its been a long time since posting on these forums, life has got in the way, as well as an 'expanded' family. I also fly planes as my main RC 'fix'. As a result, I am going to be looking to sell a few kits. Thing is, I am based in Dubai, and shipping costs to the rest of the world normally put people off as its cost prohibitive. I have family in the UK and will be visiting them later this month, as well as in December so I am going to take them over there with me and sell them on from there. Although it will be probably more interesting for the UK crowd, I will ship to anywhere if required. I will go into more detail with pics and whatnot, but for now, I'm trying to guage some interest. The cars up for sale are as follows: TBEVO4 - I have two of them, both of them were bought brand new, built, and run. They were never raced, just driven around a local track, which has since been 'deconstructed'. One of the kits was dismantled 90% and is now sitting in its original box, and has been for 4 years or so. The second one underwent the same treatment and although it is still in built condition, I am most likely going to dismantle it and give it the same treatment, back to its box. I also bought a lot of spares from RC mart, extra c-hubs, drive shafts, suspension arms and aluminium drive cups. I will divvy the spares up between them so that they have similar value. All boxes and manuals are present. No motors, esc's or servo's FF03 - Pretty much the same as above, although it is still assembled and in its box with the painted Honda Civic body that has a bit of rash on it. Its not a great body kit, but serviceable and looks really nice. The car has some upgrades to it including a MUCH bigger pinion gear, the stock ratio was painfully inadequate so a steel pinion was put in to 'up' it a bit. There are some engine mount/heat sink mods but otherwise it is pretty stock, including the shocks. Its a really fun car to drive and the body roll made it look like the real thing. I used to have friendly competition with the 4wd cars on the aforementioned track, and they were all quite surprised how well it kept up with them. I had it nicely 'dialed' that there was no rear end sliding out and just a lot of fun to drive. F104 PRO - The firs iteration of this model when it first came out, you could only get it in the PRO version. Built and run as above, with very few mods apart from an alloy motor cage and some steering servo mount mods. There are bags and bags of tire combo's that I used to try and get this thing planted, and the track was not really conducive to F1 racing, and nobody else had an open wheel car, so I piled a stack of money into this thing and didn't really get the result I wanted lol. I think I had higher expectations than what reality would allow. This one is already in the UK so I will need to do a stock take and get some pics. I recall there was a body for it, not very well painted, and is probably worth a bash, and nothing else. F201 - Bought new. built and run a handful of times. Stock. Haven't laid eyes on it in a long time, but will dig it out and do a thorough update. I know there were a lot of parts bought for it, like arms and things, but will revisit this thread in a few days, with updates. TA04F - Bought years ago as a new-build, with no box and manuals, just a runner. Have done some hopups to it, like aramid belt and CF brace, but it has never turned a wheel in anger, or even had a battery put near it. I am an Alfa fan and put the 155 Martini Body on it, but I may keep that and just get a TT02 or something to display it on. (Although a part of me knows I will buy a TBEVO7 since those are coming out soon, and display it on that...LOL. Only the BEST for an Alfa, right. That's it for now, but I also have the original Eunos Roadster Kit 58180, that is still in its box. I do know that had some minor parts like motor and gears cannibalised from it, so I will need to do a stock check on it. I will update with pics and completed assessment of the kits, and keep this thread going. In the interim, if anyone is interested in any of them, feel free to say so and ask questions. Oh, and thanks photobucket, all my pics were there, and I wont be held to ransom by them so will need to take more.
  9. OK, so I got the drill out, and did the front right. I moved the mounting point of the front spring, up by about 3-4mm. You can see on the frontal view that the left side is sagging compared to the right. Its only a few mm, but it will help. I don't think it will be possible to mount the rear of that spring higher on the shackle, as it will interfere with the chassis frame. One negative, which could have been avoided, is that the lower bumper mount now has nowhere to be mounted, but I am pretty sure I will remove the front bumper anyway, it is quite 'bulky'...
  10. I'm an old Tamiya-whore by nature, but if I had to drop some coin on something to just have fun with, I would do an Axial SCX10 or Vaterra Ascender, no need to upgrade much, just go out and run it. You will be smiling from ear to ear when you see what they can do. CR-01 is all about the build, but it pales in comparison to functionality of one of those two....and they are fairly scale too. I realise it is all about the customising and whatnot, but those things are just pure fun, for the cost of RC Channel axles...LOL
  11. Nito, I followed your build thread, and was impressed with the paintwork, I have no doubt mine will not look as good as that, but hey, it will be a runner. The mounty I have in the box, that's a different story, and I might even stump up the cash for someone to do it for me.. I like the RC Channel stuff. I had a set of those axles, but on a CR-01, they were VERY good, and made for a good scale build. It ran well too, and I sold it a few years ago, with some regret to this day. I really wanted to see what I could do with as much of the kit stuff as possible. I don't mind grinding and hacking, as long as I can restore it to original, if things don't work out.. Getting RC Channel axles would have defeated that purpose a little.I even got a set of spare Tamiya wheels to see if I could chop them to fit thinner tires, but its not really possible. The RC Channel axles also made the whole thing sit a little higher (the previous versions did, not sure about the newer ones, and I need things lowered. I recall you had some problems with the decals on yours, but got it sorted. I will put some pics up in the next day or so, to show you where I am at with things.
  12. BTW, I like the look without anything on the bed, but I think the fact that mine will be painted like a bruiser, I will probably end up putting the sleeper section on anyway. Will see how it goes. Your paintwork looks great, I wish I could paint like that...The side on, clean pic of yours shows that removing the rear subframe and bumper are likely to make it look better, the rear view with that big bumper is what I want to get away from (not saying YOURS is ugly, its the design and edge towards the monster truck thing, that I don't care for). Have a look at the rear of that pic I posted.... If the body can sit down a few mm, and the suspension come up a little, we might be getting to sweet apple pie, hmmm....lol
  13. Yeah, I went for the RC4WD hex kit, its quite different to that lot you got. Is that the ebay specials I have seen floating about? I posted that link earlier on how to narrow the bruiser rear, but it doesn't seem to be working, just google "YSS narrow bruiser" and you will see the difference. I am going to do similar to his idea, but with some changes on the way the hub is held on. I will grind a flat on the shaft rather than drill a new hole, and then turn new threads. The Geolanders are only 5mm taller than the Dirt Grabbers, and by the time I have lowered the body, and brought up the suspension, I should be around the sweet spot. Here is a pic of the guy who did the conversion. I am looking for this sort of result, but lower.....I take no credit for the pic, the work belongs to Yoshiaki Kataoka alone. I don't have his permission to use it, and will remove if necessary.
  14. Nito, You certainly have tried some options! I like the Geolanders, but there is something to 'square' about them. They just look like they don't resemble 'real tires' on mine, yours seems to look a little different. Ok, so I was doing some looking, standing back, looking again....rinse/repeat... and I came to the conclusion that any tire that is under 95mm is probably going to look a little odd. The reason for this is that even if I lower the body, at some point it is going to hit the chassis at the front and the back. the back is not a problem as the rear sub-assembly can come off, the bumper is nowhere scale anyway. The front is the problem and I don't want to hack up the grille to get that right. The only other way to do it is to bring the wheels up by removing as much 'lift as possible. One way to do it is to shift the attach points of the leaf springs up, and by doing that, you remove travel before it starts hitting things. At the front, it will hit the steering bellcrank, which will ultimately come out in favour of a front mounted servo. This is an advantage as it will remove steering slop that is inherent in the orginal system. At the back though, bringing the axle up will cause the radius arms to foul on the front spring mount. It is possible to grind those down a bit and once I have drilled and measured, I will be able to see how much I can grind off. I have ordered 1.9 wheels and 1.9 dirt grabbers from rc4wd, as well as the hex conversion. I will chop the rear axles down at the rear to bring the wheels under the body. Baby is taking up too much of my time, so might consider selling him for RD funds and freeing up some time.....lol. Ok, that was a joke.
  15. Hey all, I have had a re-re Bruiser sitting in the cupboard for ages, and decided to build it up recently. I was going to keep in it its box, but got a re-re Mounty that will probably server NIB duty, until I decide to build it. Having built the Bruiser, I am in the tedious process of getting the body sprayed up, and am doing box art, but I am not a fan of the sleeper section, so may leave that off. I am also going to leave some of the decals off, and go for a more 'scale' look. I ordered up the RC4WD Bruiseruptor axles, and scale yota axle, and as much as I like them, I also like the idea of the open front diff, rather than locked. This thing drives around the field behind my house, and we all know it is not a crawler like an SCX10 or similar, so I am looking for options. Its only when you build these things, that you see what could make them better, and quite frankly I am not a fan of the 'monster truck' gig, I prefer something a little more scale. Here is what I don't like. Body height is too high for me. Will need modding. Will need to cut down the mechanism box top-hatch and lower front mount. Not too difficult, will require some cutting. I just want the body to 'touch the rails. Anything more will require some drastic cutting to the frame, no deal. Ride height is too high. Some mods done, more to come. I am running just the main spring and the small helper spring. Makes the ride a little softer, and after some riding, it has sagged a little bit. I put spacers under the front gearbox mounts to lift it a little, and it provides more space for travel on the front suspension. By 'clocking' the front axle a little, it also frees up some space and makes the prop shaft angle a little better. Cannot do it too much or the castor on the hubs will cause some steering issues. I would like to lift the rear of the gearbox a little, but it will foul on the mechanism box. If I do need to do it, I will grind some of the mechanism box away. If the suspension lowers, the gearbox will be the first place to foul. I looked at the difference between the hangers and the shackles of the Bruiser vs the Hilux, and it is clear that the hangers and shackles are very different. The hangers can easily have another hole drilled higher up on the hanger, and this will provide around 3mm of upward movement of the spring. The shackles also have place to move up a hole, but it means some grinding of the shackle so as not to foul. Don't like the rear axle width. Looking for some inspiration, and will probably do the YSS mod, as per here http://www.ys-solutions.co.jp/ysscrawlers/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=2787&language=en Don't like that I cannot run 12mm hubs, above will remedy that. Don't like the wheels and tires. Once the above is done, I am going to look at options for wheel/tire combo's. I like the RC4WD stamped wheels but you have to get a special hub so that they can fit on the hexes, I suppose if it is the only way, then so be it. Alternatives include the Axial 8-hole wheels, and I think they are plastic apart from the bead rings, so it will keep the unspring mass lower than the rc4wd option. Not sure whether to go with 1.9 or 2.2 wheel/tire. I need to get the size down, and the only option there is the RC4WD Dune A/T tires. The are 110mm OD, as opposed to the bruiser tires which are around 126mm. They are a lot narrower (49mm as opposed to 64) and with the lowered suspension, will fit nicer than under the wheel arches. Alternatively, 1.9 wheels with the RC4WD dirt grabbers which may be a little small at 98mm, or the Mil-spec 2.2's which may be nicer at 106mm OD. Anyway, I don't have any pics, as I am just brainstorming. There are few lowered bruiser threads out there, but nothing new. I recall seeing someone on TC had done a great job with one in baby-blue sort of colour, but I cannot for the life of me find it anyay. I wonder if it didn't get lost when the server changeover happened a few years ago. Feel free to comment where you think you may have some feedback. Andy
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