SGNAS

I'm moving, so this must go before the removal day. Very large, takes 2 models per shelf. on ebay

One bit of advice and one question. Advice. The mech box and the motor/gearbox are sealed. I've run 1500s through it and both get hot. I reckon if you continuously run it hard you will not want more than a 2500mah battery. Otherwise something will go bang in the mech box and you'll be waiting along time for the gearbox to cool down. In the 80's these were known for blowing up! Usually when modified to charge in the mech box. The battery "vents", the gas then explodes in the confined space. Question. Does everyones little man hit his head on the roof? I expected there to be a gap.

Pretty true. Too often "All factory tested" really means "our guys who fly them every day could get them off the ground and back down again" They are not "trimmed" and will not hover for a beginner. I spent more in spares than the original heli' cost before I had the reactions to "catch" the direction of the heli' and make the corresponding trim.

I received mine from Fusion Hobbies on Friday. In between work, chores and kiddy care I've managed to put it together but not paint. I've had a Sand Scorcher from new, all the way back to 80/81. It's now very used but totally original, and a good reference point to the new BC. On opening the Buggy Champ I could nearly understand the NIB collectors. The blister packs really set the kit off. I was a bit dissapointed that the bag headers did not have the vehicle outline and bag contents on them. Having taken the Sand Scorcher to bits so mant times in my teens I could have built most of it without the instructions. One of the great things about these early kits is the modular assembly. You can make sub assemblies out of instruction order and assemble them onto the chassis as they are ready. For example, I wanted to use sealant on the gearbox halves and covers, but could not find any in my workshop. So I built up all the wheels, roll cage and front suspension first. Then on Saturday I got some instant gasket and assembled the gearbox. Voila, vehicle complete In my opinion ALL the metal castings are from new moulds. The lines are much crisper, edges squarer etc. There is no fault with the front axles, its the wheels I tried original SS, Sand Rover and F150 wheels and they fit with no play. The BC ones do. I think the gear and motor covers have been modified too. I have not got and original RR body to compare to, and in 30 years I have not seen one in the flesh. Everyone I knew back then used SS bodies as they had a better chance of rolling back onto the wheels if you flipped during a race (or when the vehicle was at full radio range). What strikes me is that the RR looks "super scale" compared to the SS, likw one is 1/10th and the other 1/12th. Loved building it, can't wait to finish painting and use it! Oh, and in true 12 year old fashion I managed to get grease AND threadlock smears on the outside of the box, so it matches my original SS. Now I think I should probably put the body in the box when I spray it (to prevent overspray getting on everything). How many people did that "back in the day"

Strictly an offroad toy. It would take a lot of work to try and get it thrugh SVA and reoad legal. But at 1500 I imagine many have spent as much on a 1/10th one

well I'll have to host theme somewhere

MAYBE

A toy for the boys. Found on a forum for my other "hobby" Rough Rider

Been there done that! My crime, letting the voltage get too low on discharge.

I've seen similar phrases a few times. Particullarly in the "motors" section where a good %age of the time the winning bidder is playing the 419 scam.

Go here http://www.scale4x4rc.org/home/index.php?o...3&Itemid=48 Read this http://www.j2drc.rchomepage.com/Scaleartic...d%20trailer.pdf and visit the forum http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/index.php You'll find a few familiar names and vehicles

That'll be the rod connecting the two rear steering knuckles[8-|]

I thought the windscreen wipers were "parked" the wrong way, but I checked and they are not. So, it has to be the front protection bar should be attached with "bolt heads" and not "screw heads" showing. I'd like to see the 1:1 screwdriver that is used to do up M40 screws!

have to eliminate the simple things first. Run the car in 2nd with the gear servo disconnected. If it goes ok then the steering and gear servo are pulling more current thn the BEC in the ESC can supply. Then either your steering is stiff (check it) or the gear shift lever is too long (move the gearshift one hole closer to the centre of the servo or run it with a servo saver on the gearshift) If it still cuts out then something in the drivetrain is binding. Easiest to check is the axles. Undo the grubscrews on the propshafts and turn by hand. If stiff, pull the offending axle apart and rectify. Next to check is the mesh between motor pinion and spur (slipper) gear, but unless you modified the cover, the gearshift servo will need to come out. If this mesh is too tight then the motor will overload, you'll probably not notice the sound over all the other gears turning. You can adjust it and run the car around in 2nd (the gearboxes natural position) without putting the gear servo back in to see if it still cuts out. If something is still stiff then it is gearbox out time. Not as big a pain as it seems. All you have to do is remove everything fore OR aft of the gearbox and then you can slide it along the rails. In fact on the threaded holes you do not have to totally remove the screws just undo them enougth that they are flush or below the inside of the rail.

Several possible reasons. The receiver isn't getting a signal and cuts power - unlikely There is too much friction in the driveline. Causing the motor to work hard, and overheat the esc(s). Could be why the lower rated 101fails quicker. See how well the car rolls or how hot the motor is when the esc cuts out. The motor should not really get warm in 2nd gear. The power drain on the BEC side of the receiver is large (running sttering and gear servos). Even with a partially charged battery the receiver can think the battery is too low and cut out. Check this by unpluging the gear servo and driving in 2nd only. Remedies for this are, runa seperate battery pack for the receiver or put a servo saver on the gear servo, it drains a lot of power keeping it hard up aganist the stops in 1st and 3rd. In my opinion it is most likely to be a driveline problem.