SGNAS

I'm moving, so this must go before the removal day. Very large, takes 2 models per shelf. on ebay

One bit of advice and one question. Advice. The mech box and the motor/gearbox are sealed. I've run 1500s through it and both get hot. I reckon if you continuously run it hard you will not want more than a 2500mah battery. Otherwise something will go bang in the mech box and you'll be waiting along time for the gearbox to cool down. In the 80's these were known for blowing up! Usually when modified to charge in the mech box. The battery "vents", the gas then explodes in the confined space. Question. Does everyones little man hit his head on the roof? I expected there to be a gap.

Pretty true. Too often "All factory tested" really means "our guys who fly them every day could get them off the ground and back down again" They are not "trimmed" and will not hover for a beginner. I spent more in spares than the original heli' cost before I had the reactions to "catch" the direction of the heli' and make the corresponding trim.

I received mine from Fusion Hobbies on Friday. In between work, chores and kiddy care I've managed to put it together but not paint. I've had a Sand Scorcher from new, all the way back to 80/81. It's now very used but totally original, and a good reference point to the new BC. On opening the Buggy Champ I could nearly understand the NIB collectors. The blister packs really set the kit off. I was a bit dissapointed that the bag headers did not have the vehicle outline and bag contents on them. Having taken the Sand Scorcher to bits so mant times in my teens I could have built most of it without the instructions. One of the great things about these early kits is the modular assembly. You can make sub assemblies out of instruction order and assemble them onto the chassis as they are ready. For example, I wanted to use sealant on the gearbox halves and covers, but could not find any in my workshop. So I built up all the wheels, roll cage and front suspension first. Then on Saturday I got some instant gasket and assembled the gearbox. Voila, vehicle complete In my opinion ALL the metal castings are from new moulds. The lines are much crisper, edges squarer etc. There is no fault with the front axles, its the wheels I tried original SS, Sand Rover and F150 wheels and they fit with no play. The BC ones do. I think the gear and motor covers have been modified too. I have not got and original RR body to compare to, and in 30 years I have not seen one in the flesh. Everyone I knew back then used SS bodies as they had a better chance of rolling back onto the wheels if you flipped during a race (or when the vehicle was at full radio range). What strikes me is that the RR looks "super scale" compared to the SS, likw one is 1/10th and the other 1/12th. Loved building it, can't wait to finish painting and use it! Oh, and in true 12 year old fashion I managed to get grease AND threadlock smears on the outside of the box, so it matches my original SS. Now I think I should probably put the body in the box when I spray it (to prevent overspray getting on everything). How many people did that "back in the day"

Strictly an offroad toy. It would take a lot of work to try and get it thrugh SVA and reoad legal. But at 1500 I imagine many have spent as much on a 1/10th one

well I'll have to host theme somewhere

MAYBE

A toy for the boys. Found on a forum for my other "hobby" Rough Rider

Been there done that! My crime, letting the voltage get too low on discharge.

I've seen similar phrases a few times. Particullarly in the "motors" section where a good %age of the time the winning bidder is playing the 419 scam.

Go here http://www.scale4x4rc.org/home/index.php?o...3&Itemid=48 Read this http://www.j2drc.rchomepage.com/Scaleartic...d%20trailer.pdf and visit the forum http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/index.php You'll find a few familiar names and vehicles

That'll be the rod connecting the two rear steering knuckles[8-|]

I thought the windscreen wipers were "parked" the wrong way, but I checked and they are not. So, it has to be the front protection bar should be attached with "bolt heads" and not "screw heads" showing. I'd like to see the 1:1 screwdriver that is used to do up M40 screws!

have to eliminate the simple things first. Run the car in 2nd with the gear servo disconnected. If it goes ok then the steering and gear servo are pulling more current thn the BEC in the ESC can supply. Then either your steering is stiff (check it) or the gear shift lever is too long (move the gearshift one hole closer to the centre of the servo or run it with a servo saver on the gearshift) If it still cuts out then something in the drivetrain is binding. Easiest to check is the axles. Undo the grubscrews on the propshafts and turn by hand. If stiff, pull the offending axle apart and rectify. Next to check is the mesh between motor pinion and spur (slipper) gear, but unless you modified the cover, the gearshift servo will need to come out. If this mesh is too tight then the motor will overload, you'll probably not notice the sound over all the other gears turning. You can adjust it and run the car around in 2nd (the gearboxes natural position) without putting the gear servo back in to see if it still cuts out. If something is still stiff then it is gearbox out time. Not as big a pain as it seems. All you have to do is remove everything fore OR aft of the gearbox and then you can slide it along the rails. In fact on the threaded holes you do not have to totally remove the screws just undo them enougth that they are flush or below the inside of the rail.

Several possible reasons. The receiver isn't getting a signal and cuts power - unlikely There is too much friction in the driveline. Causing the motor to work hard, and overheat the esc(s). Could be why the lower rated 101fails quicker. See how well the car rolls or how hot the motor is when the esc cuts out. The motor should not really get warm in 2nd gear. The power drain on the BEC side of the receiver is large (running sttering and gear servos). Even with a partially charged battery the receiver can think the battery is too low and cut out. Check this by unpluging the gear servo and driving in 2nd only. Remedies for this are, runa seperate battery pack for the receiver or put a servo saver on the gear servo, it drains a lot of power keeping it hard up aganist the stops in 1st and 3rd. In my opinion it is most likely to be a driveline problem.

easy peasy........ http://www.tamiyaclub.com/car.asp?id=86

I admit they're close but mine don't touch the battery. For now I've used a split pin and put this joint at the axle end to avoid clearance issues. It works fine as a "trail" repair (another thing to put in the toolbox!), so I just have to find some teeny weeny circlips[:@]

Last used the high lift 2 weekends ago (and gave it some abuse). Went to use it today. Gave it a quick lookover and found the rear prop had lost both circlips from the UJ joint on the rear axle, gearbox end. I cannot think how they would have come off and luckily retained the pin but now need to replace them or change the pin for something different. Now, they are tiny so where could I get some? What can I replace the pin with? I looked at the UJs in the XC and SRB and they use a conventional "rivet" for the pin so where do you get those? Who can think of a good reason why tamiya moved away from using the rivet pins and replacing them with a circliped version? Hmmm. wonder if there is enough clearance for a split pin

Well, I got to play with mine on a big (10ft tall) "anti pikey" pile of clay/gravel mix today. It was really impressive and could get places I've tried and failed to get my Pajero XC (locked and masses of rear axle travel). 2nd is the gear to be in when traction is an issue, 1st is too low and the tires just dig holes. It's just like a 1:1 off roader, you need a little momentum to get over some obstacles. I'm glad I did not go overboard with the paint and detailing as it has rolled more times than I care to count, no damage other than road rash though. 1st is great for crawling on a high traction surface and controlling speed steep decents. Suddenly 4 link doesn't seem to be an issue the first mods will be to the steering to reduce turning circle (the axle cases need trimming) and the skid plate is too big and too flat. I still think with a little work I can get my "narrowed" Wild Dagger to be as capable at climbing/scale offoading but it will only single speed.

I only looked at the manual once! It is the 2nd to last stage of gearbox assembly. As BD says there are a lot of M3 screws in threaded holes or plain nuts which really ought to have a dab of threadlock on them to stop them coming loose. On the SRB manuals ALL metal to metal joints are marked with threadlock, on the highlift it is used in the diff assemblies (and I think one other place). They give you a massive tube of the stuff so it's best to use it[]

Went to play with the High Lift and lost all drive so it was time to strip it down[:'(] There is an upside, you do not have to totally unassemble the chassis to get the gearbox out[] Quite a lot has to come off or be loosened (so the screws do not stick through the chassis), you do not even have to, totally, remove an axle! The gearbox can then be slid along the rails to the front, it might be even quicker to get it out the rear. Total time for excavation of gearbox, 20 mins[] Total time to find the problem, 2mins[:@] The pinion screw in the brass output gear from the main box to the drop/transfer box had worked loose. Tamiya do not say to use threadlock here but I will next time. I said in a previous thread that it looks like a lot more threadlock could be used where not explicitly shown and I've proved myself right[:$] I opted to open the main box for a precautioanry peek and all looks ok. I've put around 10 batteries through it and there are no shavings from shifting on the fly or the occasional grinding (I have not made up a shift gate yet). All I'll do is shove some more grease in before I put it all back together. I will be deleting some of the extraneous bits on reassembly (false tank, radio switch holder and possibly the radio deck) so it will take a bit longer to put back together but I will be peeved if it takes me more than an hour to sort out. Overall, looks like maintenance is not as daunting as we all feared[]

If I had bothered reading the manual and looking at the diagrams of bag contents I would have sussed it quicker[:$] Who waited to step 37 to put the tyres on the rims. Tamiya really ought to know that is step 1 everytime!

I had an issue with the screwbags too, going back and forth between lots of pots. In the end worked out that "BA" screws came in lots of packs for use at the point they needed to be opened but were still called "BA" if they came in bag "C". Oh and I really missed the little line drawing of the car on the bag tags you used to get with the SS etc, when did they stop? Eventually I poured all the bags onto one tray and picked the fixings out as and when I needed them. Has anyone done a parts count? It was a complex build. Interesting to use threadlock again, now I remember why my SS manual has blue streaks in it[:$] I have quite a few parts leftover, which is lucky as I have already lost two screws. Tip for those who have not built yet. Use threadlock where you think it is required not just the odd occasion Tamiya say so[:@]

The spring leaf over the main spring does not add much to the static stffness of the suspension. It would appear that it's main function is to stop the suspension "torqueing" up (some of you may know this better as "axle tramp"). Considering the rear axle, as the wheels turn forward the torque trys to push the diff nose up. Climb the truck up a steep board and you'll see that the diff nose rises, twists the springs, and the upper leaf then touches the lower leaf and adds torrsional stiffness. Without this upper leaf the main spring would try to twist into a "S" shape. Under load this torque in the "s" spring would periodically release, as you get wheelspin, and will make the axle bounce up and down reducing traction and your climbing ability. I tried "soft setting" without the damper springs and it is much improved. Front to rear articulation combined is as good as my 4 link xc (due to rubbish articulation on front), a "stock" truck with over 2" of articulation is pretty good. The chassis is begging for a 3 or 4 link conversion, who's going to be first? There are a lot of extra holes in the chassis to remount the servos in different locations and the gear box can be shifted from either end. The weight distribution is close to 50:50 front to rear. The high motor limits what bodies can be fitted (my Landrover body sits to high as the motor fouls the bonnet. I would not be suprised it the next release drives the chassis the other way, i.e. motor in the back. By the way, about 7 hours build time, excluding body, but including babysitting duties. I defy anyone to do it in less than 4. So a bit different from most other modern tamiyas that can be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled in an hour. The most difficult build since my SS when I was 12. Oh, and I have a "pile" of bits leftover[:$]

This might help http://www.papertoys.com/hummer3.htmhttp://http:/www./papertoys.com/hummer3.htm'>