SGNAS

Might not be all original. I think I can spot a couple of aftermarket hop ups there[]

Apparently early Holiday Buggy chassis do not have the extra hole for the "optional" 540 motor mount. Other than that just body and rear mount.

I was lucky enough to be givenid="size6">id="red">a Pajero on Friday. Well it is a little beaten up, but after 15mins fiddling it runs[] Body has taken the usual beating and most of the front bumper is there (missing one side) and glued back on. Missing Glass and roll bar. Chassis is bust in the usual place (and others)but I can live with that. I'll just fab up a front body mount. Dissapointing bit is that it is missing the wheelie bar[] The axle case is mullered too, meaning there is no place to mount the wheelie bar. Is the axle casing on the re-release Hornet identical[?]

TA01 tub is longer than a TA02. It can be used but you'd need a longer propshaft too. To get the wheelbase the same you would have to flip the rear suspension arms over.

Any 1/43rd 4X4s??

1/12th and 1/24th were really easy when the starting measurements were Imperial. Also 1/72nd Military models (& Train set size?) was another easy one 1inch:6 foot 1/10th is easy for metric measurements. Mervyn is right the Kyosho equivalents to the XCs were 1/9th scale but a cannot think of any others. There are some bizarre ones out there 1/43rd diecast 1/700th Military Ships 1/35th Military And interesting (nearly) fact No. 236. The RangeRovers entered in the Paris Dakar back in the 80's were 8/9th scale!

It is the Dickie Unimog. Rebadged as a Tamiya.

Limited Market, how many XC "runners" are there in the club? (there are other clubs though[:I]) That said, there is potential with good mark up. The bits required can be bought from tower for less than half the price you'd pay for all the bits in the UK ( I know from experience[]). The rear mod is simple to do for a reasonably experienced builder and vastly improves axle travel. The fiddly bits are getting the right length on the links and getting a spring rate you are happy with. It's also a totally reversible modification. Packaging all the correct bits together with instructions would be worth a bit of a premium, but I think a snazzy box would eat your profits.

If you are in the UK try user "model_build" on ebay. Apparently has lots of Hornet parts (probably split kits). Or www.modelbuild.co.uk

Rc tyres are not pressurised as on full size cars. On a touring car (where the tyre has no deep or curved tread) this leads to the outer edges (siewalls) supporting most of the car. The central part of the tyre makes little contribution to the grip/traction available from the tyre. By putting a foam shaper in the tyre this gives the tyre a bit of a curve which deforms as the car is put down on a surface and spreads the weight of the car over the full width of the tyre giving more even grip and even wear. This is simplifying as if you read into it they start talking about having an air gap between tyre and foam, different density foams etc.. On a heavy monster truck the problem is similar and added to this is substantial deformation in the sidewall (which is all that is supporting the truck, no pressurised air). If you are running your MT on hard surfaces an are looking for speed then foam is your thing. Better grip and more speed, as energy is not wasted constantly deforming the tyre giving less rolling resistance (ever tried riding a bike with nearly flat tyres, it's a lot of effort.). If, however, you are running on rough surfaces or rock crawling having super soft tyres is an advantage as you want then to conform to the surface you are running on to give maximum grip. The tyres that were going cheap on the magazine (look great on the Twin Dagger) came with foams. These seemed, to me, to be far to big and too hard to provide any benefit at all. When fitted the tyres were all "puffed up and solid".

Old rims? Old stub axles? If so they're probably wobbly due to wear. If you don't seem to be able to do the nut up tight enough to stop the wobbles you need to get some washers (as spacers) on the axle.

If you use ebay search for user victor101car he has stacks of BRAND NEW spares for the TA01. Last week he had the very tyres you are loking for. If you don't do ebay go to www.lightwatermodels.co.uk same guy but not all of his stock is listed.

I'll give this a go, at the risk of being corrected by the experts. The only damper oils I've seen recently are silicone oils. I don't think these pick up or absorb water so there is no reason to change the oil other than changing it for thicker/thiner to change the damping rate. However, even the best RC dampers loose oil so they should be topped up now and then. If the oil looks dirty then change it as there will be dirt particles in the oil which will be destroying the seals creating more leaks.

The F150 uses TA02 Tub and TA01 Suspension arms. This gives it a slightly different set up. To get a 250mm wheel base I expect the rear suspension arms are fitted the wrong way (as they would on a TA01). If you flip them over you will get a 256-257mm wheelbase. Down load a few(TA01 F150 TA02) of the manuals and you will see the difference. Icidentally, with the 250mm wheel base you can mount hardbodies from the XC range and the Sandscorcher and F150/Blackfoot.

They look great and I'd love to have them. Just way more than I can justify on spending on "toys"[]

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQampq3bsspage...osortpropertyZ1 Oooh, thats a bit of a long url[:I] but it works

Thanks

Simple question. How long are the dogbones for The porche 959 / Celica GrB chassis?

Yep, hot motors do chew up the gears. I had a Dynatech in and it destroyed a pinion in less than 2 hours of running[:I] But was it ever fast! Understeer in to a corner, let the throttle off, front tyres dig in, grip roll[] And have you ever tried heavy braking with a one way diff in the front? 180 spin and backwards into the corner every time[:I]

As the instuctions on another forum may be lost due to a move perhaps this is a suitable candidate for the TC "how to" guides I'm waiting on bits to arrive before I can finish mine[V] Incidentally, it would be cheaper to buy all the bits from Tower and pay $15 shipping than I have paid so far buying half the bits in the UK[!][!]

In your fine movies there is a TA01/2 prerunner type car running big wheels and tyres. What has been used in the drivetrain? I've put big wheels on TA01/2's and a Blazing Star before but whatever I have run in terms of motors and gears they have always seemed overgeared and never performed very well[V] The one in the vids looks pretty nippy.

I always used to soften the front and stiffen the rear to reduce understeer. So by logical reasoning you get better grip with soft suspension. But.. if the shock oil is to thick you will still get the effect of stiff suspension as the soft springs will not return the tyres to contact the ground after a bump.

Usually hit the UK about March of the year they are dated. Been this way for as long as I remember (20+years)

I have a F150 body where the cab has seperated from the backbody. All the front is O.K. and would look good when stripped and repainted. However, the backbody is not only detached but is also in 6 bits with some samll sections missing. So, my options are, repair the backbody and reattatch or take the opportunity to build a custom backbody. I've looked around the showrooms but cannot find anybody else who has done a custom body. Has anyone done it, or seen it? Has anyone got a F150 and King Blackfoot body? Do the body creases match up? Anyone got a detatched KBF rear to donate? The custom route could be fun as I have another project in mind for the backbody. (SS front + F150 rear = Better Beetle pickup!)

At 4 in the morning it's probably some bored security guard. Selling a big "pikey" caravan I already thought I'd have some deadbeat bidder end up on top but this one really takes some beating. But as they say in France "That's Life" (small joke courtesy of not the nine o clock news)