SGNAS

http://cgi6.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Mf...nojspr=y&pfid=0 My caravan was in that lot!

They are usually a tight fit. Rather than file some material out of the chassis put some washers between the clip and body as spacers when you screw the clip to the body.

and a s****id="blue"> touring car shell. These are great little toys. The Mad Bull is practically indestructible (body shell excepted[:I]) and runs most places. If you locked the diff and fiddled with the spring rates it could make a fantastic off road basher. As a special bonus it floatsid="red"> (just). It only started to sink when the spray from tha paddle wheels filled the chassis with water[:I][:I] With a little thought it could be made amphibious[8D]

Well, officially he has a Jeep (possibly 2) a Honda Civic has been seen in a Sandrover or 2 Well now he has..... A Speed boat[:0] Rubbish pic. but it does finish the boat off as it was previously driverless. The Sandrover man looked really great in it but I couldnt bring myself to butcher him to fit[]

1:1 1:10 I had to sell the 1:1 about 18 months ago as the 110 mile commute every day was a killer at 25mpg[][][] Sadder still, about 2 months after I traded it I could have afforded to keep it, the Landrover and the horrible Volvo I traded it for.

Overall length of body = 365mm Wheel base of Chevy S10= 257mm Diameter of tyre about = 80mm = 337mm Leaves 14mm either end for overhang. My guessis that it will fit. Could be a bit wide though, i think the wheel will fit inside the bodywork.

My box says the same. It is printed in the box art, not a sticker. I've had mine from new, bought around 1981/82. I think it was Tamiya's way of saying the drawing on the front isn't entireley accurate and that you were not getting the chrome front guard and the front suspension has 3 tubes not 2! The text continues to say look on the side for further details, these drawings more accurately represent the model. Compare this with the Sand Rover box where the main picture is a good representation of the model down to the brass nuts on the suspension.

I'll let you in on a secret.[] Blazing Star tyres are still available in the UK www.Tamiyaparts.co.uk Part no 9805561 £7.99 a pair

I recently got the same controller in a car I bought. Couldn't find any specs for it on the web. But, at around £25 for a new one I wouldn't expect it to take much more than a standard motor. However, I have some old Futuba controllers that also run with an inline 30amp auto fuse and I've been as low as 16turns with those[:I] Now I'm somewhat older and wiser I wouldn't try it out unless I could afford to bin it if I blew it up. Now, if it has previously been ok then something has changed. Possibly: Added friction in the drivetrain Higher grip/ less wheelspin Bigger wheel/tyre or other gearing change You were doing a lot of acceleration from standstill, or full reverse/full forward any of these make the motor work harder and could "just" tip the current up a bit and blow the fuse.

If they were good quality NiCds and I were selling them they would be in clear wrapping or labelled clearly on the ouside. I "suspect" they are not sanyo cells. The same company also sell budget packs. They may have made the honest mistake of sending the wrong ones out. Contact them.

Easier option is to drill the drivenut on one of the flats through to the centre and tap a thread for a grub screw. Them use the grub screw to lock the drivenut to the axle. Not done this on a Mad Bull yet, will do tonight, but have done it on a Ball Diff where the flat was much smaller and it works fine Standard Grub Screws as used on the motor pinions are M3. I "think" thats a 2mm drill and, obviously, a M3 tap. Alternatively try a 2.5mm drill and a M3 screw as a tap[] Or alternatively spend £2.99 on a new pair of drivenuts and make sure your wheel nuts are always tight.[:I]

1 pair Padlatrack tyres to suit Wild Willy 1 or Blazing Blazer. Complete with 1 pair front wheels for Wild Willy 1. Tyres are in totally unworn condition and super supple, However they have some perishing. Fine for use on a Shelf Queen up on blocks or great for running on the sand and mud. They are really squidgy so should be good for "scale" rock crawling too. Some one offer me a big wadge of cash before I do something stupid with them![:I] . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Those are the original rears on the front! or worse still . . . . . . . . . Yes, with a dab of glue they would fit the current touring car rims[}]

As the title says. Probably the same bit on mad fighter, rookie rabbit etc, etc. Anyone who has had to buy new front arms might have one spare. Thanks

Happy birthday. A very generous gesture, 58052 (Fox?)

A recently won ebay lot I guess. Sure I was tracking this lot but it went a bit high for me. Best bet. Download the Sand Rover manual. Pick all the Sand Rover bits from the pile, The body looks to be in very good condition. Sell or start you first restoration project. The radio set is period equipment to Sand Scorcher etc. If it works it is still good to use. I still run 4 cars and 2 boats on similar equipment! Personally I think it is more robust than modern equipment, my receivers have had countless soakings and always work again after being dried out! Rest of the bits- must be useful for something!

Just been put in charge of getting a birthday present for a mate. Need a simple beginners RC car with big wheels, radio set, battery and charger. Needs to be a current model so spares are easy to come by. I was thinking mad Bull or WW2 but am open to offers. Anyone got a basic car they want to pass on?

When I bought mine I had a Frontera, so painted it to match. Official Tamiya paint schemes Blaze Peacock - X-13 Met. Bl 1 part X-25 Clear Grn 3 parts X-2 White 1 part Blue Gitanes - TS10 French Blue Sunburst Orange X-6 Orange 4 parts x-27 Clear red 1 part X-2 White 1 part Brilliant Red TS39 Mica Red Ebony Black TS14 Black Iron Gray TS42 Light Gun Metal Now, having seen the real McCoy Blaze Peacock and Sunburst Orange are metallic finish (I'm sure the pic in the catalogue looks metallic too). Without "silver" in the paint mix I don't see how tamiya's recomendation will supply a metallic finish[?] Mica red or Light gunmetal would be good. Oh, and I didn't spot someone had listed the colours before I went and done it all again[:I]

Look at or download the manual. Looks like a standard rear diff for the TA01/02 series to me. The manual shows how to set it up.

The area behind my house is(hopefully by tonight has) being converted from gravel covering to an all weather surface for exercising the girlfriends horses on. This will be a 25 x 12 metre level area of 6" deep sand. Great fun for all my off roaders[8D]. Last night about 20% of the area was covered. 5 batteries and 5 cars later 3 of them are crying/grinding/crunching for a strip down. TA01 with monster wheels ballraced and ESC is fine TA01 Landrover with blazing star wheel/tyre combo and MSC sounds ok (plastic bushes) but will not go - sand in msc. TA01 Hummer standard kit built is in the same condition as the Landrover. XC Mu balllraced otherwise standard kit - drivetrain is grinding and msc a bit dodgy (I had the plastic cover on this one). WW2 standard kit form - fantastic still working and is great fun on the sand, hardly ever rolls!!! Lessons learnt in one evening. In sand bushes require less maintenance than ballraces. MSCs may beat ESC in snow and water but in sand they're c$£p. (Sand is a very poor conductor!) XC beats TA01/2 hands down in the rough. XC turning circle sucks. I need another Willy for my mates to play with[:I] I need to make the final push on the Sand Scorcher restoration/runner. All those sealed boxes should mean minimal maintenance[8D] I WANT a Clod I'm gonna have to but bearings in bulk from now on. I need to make some ramps. If anyone has tips on keeping runners running in sand let me know

Number 1 on the tips before running on any Tamiya manual. "Make sure that screws and nuts, especially grub screws, are tight enough." Well worth doing as I have spent a lot of time scrabling in the dirt lately looking for turnbuckles, dogbones and drive cups lately.[!] I seem to be a bit of a slow learner in this respect and have been doing a lot of playing on dirt/gravel/sand lately and small bits are difficult to find. I spent a bout 15mins looking for a drive cup in about a 3sq metre area. I thought about making a massive electromagnet (steel bar/copper wire/land rover battery) only to discover that the cup had attatched itself to the cars motor magnets.[]

So, any estimates on the UK or Europe pricing? How about £120?

Finished in Blue!!! Missing 3 pointed star from bonnet and a small ding in the gille. Small splits on both front wheelarches. Split in side valance Split in rear bumper A reasonable job has been made of a nightmare sticker job, some are peeling. All the above make it seem really bad, but more than 2ft away you wouldn't notice the bads bits. See for yourself. Offers?? Available as the bodyshell only or with a TA02 rolling chassis (light-medium used)

Likes: Putting the wheels on. Pushing the suspension up and down. Sticking a charged battery in it and using it for the first time (usually before I've actually "finished" building it) Dislikes Rebuilding any plastic part that some numpty, hamfisted, knuckle head has done the self tappers up too tight on[!] Rebuilding any gearbox that some numpty, hamfisted, knuckle head has put way too much grease in[!] Taking some large assembly apart because I use the wrong screw in it[:I]

Oh, Oh, Oh Got it, I'm sure Lancia Delta Integrale[8D] or Ford Escort Cosworth[] 2 "lexan" classics

Brat? The bodyset is already done. Ranger? Bodyset "relatively" recently out of pruduction. It the TT01 can handle tall (not touring) tyres, unlike the TB01[!] then most classic off roaders are possible.