SGNAS

Has any one got the instructions for the speed tuned gears? i.e. what holes in the motor mount to use for different pinions with the smaller spur gears?

On the other hand Humbrol model strip is the mutts nuts for removing paint. Just a coincidence[]

The Mu is a Frontera, with a nice well proven, uncomplicated reliable, 4cyl 8v engine[]. Most fun car I have owned, soft top, 4wd [8D]. But it was getting bashed and dented so I bought a 90 and had two 4wds to play in. Then I moved and was doing 600miles a week comuting and at 25mpg thats expensive[] it also needed new shocks, radiator and some other stuff doing so I used it as p'ex on a diesel Volvo estate[][][] Still kept the 90 though[8D] The big boat is a friends, pictures taken when I picked it up from being serviced, since changed for a newer model. Model boat came off ebay, but is sold in the uk by DPI leisure sport who do not have any stock at the moment!!

for anyone who doesn't think it looks scale here is the real thing

My new boat arrived Friday. 1/10th scale model of a waterski boat. Flat bottomed (very shallow v). Kitted it out on Saturday and took it for a short and cold test run on Sunday. Planes lovely and turns real sharp, there is a "tow toy" to run off the back which with a 3rd channel can be steered over the boat wake. 7.2v was fine but I think 8.4 would give it just the extra bit of punch it needs (although all my 7.2v are way past their best!) Speed control on this one is via microswitches to provide 3 speeds. I'm sure it would would work on 14.4v but it may be a bit fast i.e the speed progrssion would be fast/unbelivable/uncontollable, bear in mind that there is no reverse and they only steer when you have power on[8D] Shown here with my XC Mu, I'm going to have to improve my modelling skills and make trailer!! Oh, the reason for these boats is I waterski in the summer and need something to do while we are not in the real boat. There is going to be a few around this year. My other boat may be fitted with a low pitch prop an be designated "recovery vehicle".

The hull is a deep "V" planning hull based on a real motor cruiser. small Sunseeker style[] O.K. Hadn't thought of it before, over propped=over geared, the motor will not get up to speed. It's possible a smaller or lower pitch prop will spin faster and provide more motive power in the end. I thought 15A was a bit low but it was cheap, now if I can find the 26A version I'm sure that will be fine.

I've got a couple of boats. One of which has an early Tamiya wound resistor MSC. The boat is running standard 7.2v stickpacks with an undetermined (but looks nothing special) motor. Problem is the solder keeps melting on the speed controller connections! So I must be drawing a lot of current. There is no appreciable friction in the drive and the boat only just gets planning so I don't want to reduce the pitch of the propellor. Assuming the controller doesn't melt the run time is similar to most of my cars using the same batteries. Now, I have seen in the model shop a ESC for boats (instant forward to reverse and waterproof). But, it is only rated at 15amps (I,ve melted 30amp fuses in cars). If I'm already melting solder (it could of course be Low Melting Point solder) will it be man enough for the job, or is a 15amp controller for meandering around the lake with a tug? Oh, the model shop deals mostly for the rail enthusiast so they will be no help. thanks in anticipation

Not sure about the question but I know the answer. **** off ****wit[]

I've got a TA02 with red uprights on the front. The front is ~10mm wider than the back!

I have one pair BNIB on sprue red upright and 2 used drive shafts as above exerpt from manual. Used on TA01, Manta Ray, Blazing Star, Hummer and many others. Looking for pair blue uprights and matching driveshafts in similar condition. As used on TA02, FF01, XC and others? Shown in pic below.

Honest, it was only the mearest "clip". The grey arms just expolded. It was a reasonable distance away, when I saw it on 3 wheels I thought the knuckle had torn from the chassis. This was only minutes after having it on it's roof after a big bounce from the rear suspension. Lesson learnt:- Don't chase the dog with the valuble stuff. I should stick to the "tough" TA01/2s

I only clipped the wall, honest[:I] [][][] Anyone got some spare front arms[?]

Athough the top link attachment is different (possibly better/stronger) I'm fairly certain that the same part form a "pure 10" will fit

Bigger than that! 255 85r16 on Chrome Modulars M4M and MadMax, I've got a 1:1 90 to play in

Re: Width It's lucky the 109" is fitted with "Defender" style wheelarch eybows[] I can't work it out[8)] The body is only 175mm wide but the tyres stick out only a few mm. I thought these chassis were 190mm wide? If I can find a set of wheels with 2-3mm less offset in one of my boxes it will look great.[]

Technically, just (I think), suitable for the vintage section. I bought this Nice toy, vintage. It is based on a real expedition, I can't remember the date but think somewhere between 1979-1982. Total proportional control of both speed and steering. A top quality toy of it's time. It just so happened to be sat next to a TA01 (Vintage Tamiya!) and I noticed the wheelbase was very close as was the width. Being an engineer I couldn't resist getting the screwdrivers out and came up with this. And to add more Tamiya content the chassis is very reminiscent of the XR311. The box art shows the truck with XR311 style tyres. Now I have a dilema. It's a really nice toy in it's own right. I got it for less than the price of a bodyshell and it looks really good with chunky tyres!

Problem fixed (I hope). The hex fitting is *just* thick enough to drill and tap M3. Made two holes on opposite flats, so I could get the sahft reasonably centred, tapped then and inserted a grub srew in each. Ran a bettery through it last night and the repair held out. Several types of glue only lasted 2 mins maximum.

If you are in the UK and don't take paypal then dealing with other countries will involve cash or cheque. UK banks make silly charges (and crappy exchange rate) for cashing Euro or Dollar cheques and big commision (or crappy exchange rate) on exchanging cash too. Hence "UK only please" simplifies things a lot!

Thats it, used in anything based on the Manta Ray tub and many others. Different part number in most manuals though[!]

Biggus, Think I sold the best of the rest chassis as a Holiday Buggy. Fairly certain that the one I have left has both top suspension mounts broke and there are holes from mounting the servos with screws. I'll try and check tonight.

As the title says. I have a clear rear cab glass, uncracked but has some paint and sticky on it (picture available if you want it). I would like to swap it for the front grille. Perhaps you have one that is complete but not good enough for your restoration. Chrome stripped or scratched would not matter as it is for a runner. Thanks

Wanted: Diff part identified as BF1 in above picture. I've stripped the splines and need a replacement. The part is called BF1 in these instructions but is used in many models with a different part no[!] If you could have a rummage through your spares boxes and find me one I'll be very happy. Thanks.

The electronics are more robust than you give them credit for. A trip to the airing cupboard usually sorts them out. If they still don't work then rinse them in clean water and back to the airing cupboard. For some of my older (and still working) kit this used to be a weekly occurence

I bought this out of curiosity and to possibly use the shell on an XC runner. Now surplus to requirements as I have a (lighter) Land Rover shell for mucking about with. Details here http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...d=11421&id=1297 I think I have some other photos comparing the 2 if required. It worked yesterday. Weighs the best part of 3kg with charger and transmitter. UK trade/sale preferable. I hate it when ads say "make me an offer" but there is no way of comparing it's worth. It was available in Radio Shack at the same time as the XCs were in production. They were not cheap at the time but I expect most ended up in landfill when they broke. Interested in stuff with big wheels (my play plot is 13 x 27metres of shingle!) or TA02 based for trade [:I]MAKE ME AN OFFER, WHY?id="size4">id="blue"> [:I] Oh, my description about the gears is incorrect. The High ratio gears have low torque, I just have never had the room to let it trundle up to full speed!

It is a "regional" offer. Not available everywhere[] http://www.lidl.co.uk/gb/index.nsf/pages/c...8.p.RC_Vehicles