Real Wild One

Members
  • Content Count

    53
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Real Wild One

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • ICQ 0
  1. Real Wild One

    TXT-2 Hop Up Shocks onto TLT-1?

    Ok, thanks for the heads up guys. I've looked at the Gmade shocks and they look pretty smart so I might go down that road. Due to work suddenly ramping up I can't even begin this build just yet but at least it allows me time to decide what I'm going to use. I will take a look at the Axial scx10 shocks. See if they might be what I'm after.
  2. Real Wild One

    The STUMPscorcher - two Tamiya icons in one!

    Genius. Simply genius!
  3. Real Wild One

    TXT-2 Hop Up Shocks onto TLT-1?

    Well I've been going my homework on these. What I really needed to know is whether the new Tamiya Hop Up shocks for the TXT-2 are 93mm in length? It appears that is a standard length for some trucks, but there are also shocks which are 103mm in length. I don't know what length these new Tamiya shocks are. If someone has a set and could measure their length fully extended then I'd be grateful. Also, I think they are likely to be 19mm in spring width, which I reckon is too wide to fit onto the linkages of the TLT-1 without the springs rubbing against the chassis plates? There is a member on here with an Agrios with hoped up Gmade shocks which are similar. I might drop him a pm.
  4. Real Wild One

    TXT-2 Hop Up Shocks onto TLT-1?

    Hi guys Thanks for the response. I am using the TLT-1 as a donor vehicle. I am actually going to be running the Punguin R2300 Carbon Fibre Chassis. Maybe one other way to answer my query is to change the question slightly. So.... Would Shocks from a TXT-1 fit on a TLT-1? The hop up shocks I refer to in the pic above are for the TXT-1 and -2. So if the standard shocks from either of those vehicles could be swapped onto a TLT-1, then I guess the hop ups would fit?
  5. Hi Does anyone know if the new 54472 Hop Up Shocks for the TXT-2 Agrios will fit onto a TLT-1 Rock Buster Chassis? (They're pictured below) I've measured the TLT-1 standard shocks from the centre of the mounting holes top and bottom and they are 9.3mm in length. I'm using a TLT-1 chassis as a donor for a project, and the shocks are pretty, but also pretty terrible, so if I can get these new 54472 units to fit, then I might splash the cash and upgrade them as well. Any advise welcome. Thanks
  6. Real Wild One

    A Hybrid Scorcher

    I remember well SRB bloke making that scorcher. He is a true wizard when it comes to hand fabricating styrene to make a body shell just how he wants it and that was a sweet car when he finished it. Definitely not a basher though with all the work that went into it. Apologies, didn't read the thread fully....I see its a Baja your more looking to.
  7. Real Wild One

    Meet, the STUMPkin!

    This car is amzing. A real inspiration and one of the best I've seen for a chop job. You've done an excellent job stumifying that body shell, well done. A real skill. Love it!
  8. Real Wild One

    A Hybrid Scorcher

    Just returned to the fold having been out of modelling last few years due to kids, house etc etc... Here's a street scorcher I built. It's still not quite finished, but once I get my workshop up and running in a few months time, its first on the hit list to be completed. If you want a FAST scorcher, this is the way to go. This thing goes like grease lightning......but only on tarmac... It's pretty hybrid for sure. Cheers http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=105908&sid=25373
  9. Real Wild One

    WD 40

    I'm sorry to tell you, but WD40 contains Petroleum Distillates. Yes, it will make the tyres look like new when you put it on......come back to them in a year or two's time and the rubber will be all split and starting to perish. Petroleum Distillates cause the natural oils in the rubber to dry out. It's ok on car tyres etc which are replaced every few years, but for a model you want to keep, especially a vintage model it will only serve to destroy the tyres. The only way to preserve and nourish the rubber is by using glycerin....it acts to keep the rubber hydrated and doesn't dry out the natural oils in the rubber. If I were you, I'd remover the film of WD40, give the tyres a thorough wash and use something else.....Silicon spray which doesnt contain petroleum distillates as a propellant is an alternative. Hope this helps
  10. Real Wild One

    Ta03 R-s Chassis And And Gpm Hop Ups

    Great post and nice pics. Love what you've done with this chassis. PM sent Thanks
  11. Real Wild One

    Ta03 R-s Chassis And And Gpm Hop Ups

    Thanks Sayer Yes, I appreciate what you mean. I used to race a Yokomo MR4TC and used some hopped up parts on that, but like you say, when they bend, I got sick of all the carbon reinforced plastic parts that they were attached to getting ******ed at the same time, so in the end I just kept a large supply of plastic A arms etc and just replaced them when required, which resulted in less damage to everything else. My racing days are over now, but this TA03 needs parts and I've decided to try and make it into a real custom Street Scorcher that is built for performance and speed with nice quality hopped up parts, good esc, High Performance Motor etc etc. Yet despite all this, it may see a few hot straight line starts, but it won't see much else except the inside of a display case. It seems GPM sell all the parts I need, both because I have parts that NEED replacing and because they will help to enhance the model. A FRP chassis plate or a carbon one doesn't really suit my needs for this prject because I will be fitting this chassis with a Blitzer Beetle Body shell and I need to fabricate front nudge bars and a rear faux engine to the back. I need the plastic tub chassis that is there to hang all this stuff off via fabricated attachments, so the real 'skinny' treatment isn't the purpose behind this project. It's got to look good, look fast, and have a bit of muscle under its skin. I'm not trying to build a race replica or competition car, but I appreciate the sentiment all the same. It sounds like GPM parts certainly don't disappoint....maybe I just need to start picking a colour for the alloy...blue or silver. Right now I'm leaning towards Silver with the odd Carbon Fibre Part. Any other GPM part users feel free to chip in, particularly if you've used Asiatees Regards all
  12. Real Wild One

    Ta03 R-s Chassis And And Gpm Hop Ups

    Hi The A arms and the knuckles are going to be replaced with alloy ones. It's the front knuckles made of plastic which are already cracked. Anyone with specific experience of GPM hop up parts I'd love to hear what you think of them. This car is soo loose with all this Tamiya stuff and I'm also hoping the alloy parts will help to reduce a lot of the slop in the drive train and steering.
  13. Hi Guys and Girls I need some help. I've just purchased a second hand Porsche GT1 which is based on the TA03 R-S chassis, which i intend to use for a Street Scorcher project I'm about to embark on. Looking over the chassis I can see it is in need of a few new parts....shock absorbers, shock tower mounts, front knuckles...and more. Having trawled through eBay, parts are available in some cases, but mostly in Black Plastic, not grey, which is the colour of my chassis. This has started me looking elsewhere and I came across Asiatees who sell alloy GPM Hop Up parts for the TA03. Having looked through their bits and pieces they sell, I am now considering really making this a 'BLING' chassis and repacing all the suspension arms, knuckles (wheel Hub Carriers), shock absorbers and also suspention mount turrets with all aluminium pieces. Will also replace all the A arms, camber arms and sterring linkages at the same time. By using their products I basically source all the new parts I need to repair this chassis whilst at the same time making my soon to be street scorcher look great. It isn't my intention to run this car a whole lot once its finished, its just the project itself that appeals to me and admiring it once its finished, so damage to the alloy parts through accidental mishaps etc isn't really a concern for me. My question is......if you have any experience of these parts, good or bad, as well as Asiatees I'd love to hear it because I'm about to part with almost $300 for parts which is a big expenditure, so I need to know if all these parts are gonna fit together and work well with one another. Looking forward to some info from you guys...and girls Thanks in advance.
  14. Real Wild One

    Wild Willy Body Questions

    The drivers footwell area is different between the two chassis also. On the WW2 body shell the footwell has a cut out which Willy's heels protrude through. The footwell on a M38 body does not have this cut out. Also, the bonnet on the WW2 has two raised feature lines in it, which the original M38 does not.
  15. This is a terrible shame. Tony's supplied many parts for my m38 rebuilds, invaluable bits and bobs I needed to get Willy back on the road, I mean shelf! I had to return a part once, and he was excellent to deal with, no problems, no messing, refunded the money straight away and said send the part back as soon as you can. A real pleasure to deal with and I've always been back to his store many times since. I'm sorry to hear of the fire and hope he manages to get everything back up and running without too much of an impact to his valuable business that we all benefit from. I think he's had a bad run of luck lately due to other circumstances within the family as well, so I wish him all the best.