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JennyMo

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About JennyMo

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  1. Hi Willy - yes, I can't imagine they are any different, being essentially the same chassis - and if its 43mm then that is pretty much a 1.7 as I surmised... interesting, thank you! Jx
  2. I know this is an older thread, but if anyone [still] has one of these, could you measure the diameter of the front wheel - is a 1.7? Many thanks in advance... Jenny x
  3. Personally I like it on the rear wings... maybe just remove the stripe across the bonnet, as that does look a bit fussy/busy perhaps? Jx
  4. Hi Bus' - if you're looking for something different, and fundamentally something to build - then I'd consider getting the main Capra cage/chassis set (they are $30, plus you need the skid plate section for another $12 - although depending on the transmission you intend to use, there are aftermarket/aluminium options too), and then build it up with pretty much any axles/links/shocks and transmission you fancy? This is what I did (using RC4WD K44 narrow axles and 1.9 wheels/tyres), and there is more info in my Capra-Cornholio thread in the builds section... I'd say it's an excellent and affordable platform - although how much extra you end up spending can vary considerably of course - you can even make a 4WS version should you wish... for info. I've got a standard Axial 3-gear transmission in this with a 13T 5-slot motor, and with a 2S lipo battery it's a rocket when you want it to be - but still crawls too! Something to consider? Jenny x
  5. Ha ha - awesome! I wonder if they'd been trawling back through this forum (as far back as 2014), as I recall a similar conversation in this thread here: Looks like someone actually went ahead and did it! For anyone wondering, this the scene I was thinking about, from the James Bond movie Licence to Kill: The question is though - will it wheelie?! Jenny x
  6. Aha, probably the perfect thread to revisit these two beauties from @sonicdeath https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125575&id=10614 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125431&id=10614 Jx
  7. A little update, as I got the chance to meet up with Simon again recently and take the Jeeps out for a run in one of my favourite 1:1 4x4 trails near Las Vegas... The little mini-me is still doing sterling service in the hands of it's new owner, although is starting to bear a few scars (and we noticed missing it's hood latches too now - one is missing in the photo above, and by the time we got home, the other had gone ping somewhere too), and again it seemed to suffer a stripped ring and pinyon gear in the rear axle by the time we'd finished running for the day... photo. what is it with TJ Jeeps that they require constant maintenance it seems?! This has happened twice now, and while I know that RC4WDs cast axles don't have a particularly good reputation for being especially strong in actual 'crawling' conditions, it is a little disappointing - especially as I have these K44 axles on two of my other models (including my Capra) which has not suffered in the same way. The first time I put it down to a hurried build and not shimming the axles during the initial assembly... while this time it could have been due to replacing the OEM parts with some cheaper 'Chinese' Yota II internals I had spare, to get him going again. Fortunately Simon had subsequently ordered a genuine replacement ring and pinyon set from RC4WD a while ago, so those were now duly installed, together with shimming them both within a [millionth of] an inch of their lives - so I trust we'll have finally sorted that issue for the future now... Jenny x
  8. Very nice! As a thought, if you did want to utilise that Sand Scorcher rear exhaust (and perhaps one of Toykid's scale engine covers too), you could go a little custom and chop the rear end like Sayroll did with this awesome Bel-Ray Bullet replica using that body? https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122033&id=22164 Looking forward to seeing what you do! Jenny x ps. While you're at it, I'd also use the Sand Scorcher driver head with the open face helmet too - I think that would look even more period correct.
  9. As sosidge suggests, get a servo-reversing Y cable - you can find them on ebay, usually sold as being suitable for aeroplane flaps for example (ie. one goes up when the other goes down). They typically have a small PCD in heat-shrink, with three cables - a male plug for the receiver, and two female plugs to connect each of your servos to. Jx
  10. Hi Admin - I recall this was an issue a while ago when the forum was revamped - that certain older posts couldn't be edited (and also if longer posts were edited, they were then too large to re-save in their original size?), but I've noticed a similar message has popped up a couple of times now on more recent threads - including almost immediately after I'd posted it, and went back to edit a spelling mistake for example: Does this have something to do with if there has been a subsequent reply, or even a 'like' etc? or is it just a glitch? - either way, I do like to go back and correct any spelling or grammatical mistakes which I didn't notice at the time... got to keep the written word standards up you know! Hope you can help/advise... Jenny ps. the particular post in question was the latest update to my TJ Hooker build thread, but I recall there was another recently too.
  11. Jan 2022: A quick update to this build... having had a lot of fun driving this last summer, occassionally alongside my subsequent project: RED DWARF which I built for my friend Simon; while I like the stripped-down truck-cub look of this TJ, I couldn't help but covert the full-length roof-rack I'd installed on Simon's Jeep... photo. Somewhere in Utah, summer 2021 A quick scour on Ebay revealed a 'universal' roof rack was available with the dimensions approximately 150x230mm, which ought to pretty much result in a full length roof-rack on this extended wheelbase 'TJ-L' style body... sure enough, it turned out to be a perfect fit! photo. mocking up, prior to a little restorative paintwork... Since this rack is really intended to be mounted to either the rain gutters (with brackets supplied) or directly though the roof panel of a full length hard-top, all I had to do was use a couple of 6mm threaded rods as rear supports, together with a pair of shackle brackets I had in my spare stash which turned out to be the perfect width to mount inside the rear fender panels using M2 screws. At the front, I moved the gutter brackets inboard (to match the width of the Tamiya Jeep roof), and trimmed them to sit directly on the moulded gutter, held in place with an M2.5 bolt on each side. While this meant the rack was now secure, I felt it would look more authentic to fabricate a hook plate (like a real gutter mount roof-rack) for each bracket out of styrene - and these were ultimately glued to the gutter, but not the roof-rack bracket, so it's actually feasibly to undo the bolt and remove the rack (although the outer L clamp plate will remain in place of course). photo. L clamps made from 1mm styrene... photo. ...then painted satin black and glued to the roof gutter. Now I must admit the weight of this metal roof-rack has significantly raised the centre of gravity, and I can imagine it is going to be nothing like as stable as it was before as a simple truck-cab... however, it looks kewl - and that's the main thing (especially now I have my Vanquish Phoenix for more serious scale trailing), and is also the perfect home for all the scale accessories I've amassed over the years: photo. how much junk can one Jeep carry?! Ultimately I've decided to dial it back a little for now: photo. All the accessory boxes in the load bed are secured with servo tape, while the twin roof boxes are mounted using a bolt into a plastic bracket which sandwiches the roof-rack cross-bars, plus a thin strip of servo tape... this means that even if it turns turtle on the trail, I shouldn't lose any of the scale accessories (note. everything inside the tool trunk is already super-glued in place). photo. The rack comes with six round spot lamps - I elected to fit only two pairs (together with some Tamiya cover decals I had), and will most likely relocate the front licence plate between them on an L bracket too. I'm sure there will be a few more accessories added in future - I'm already thinking about a Hi-lift jack across the rear of the rack cage, and perhaps some sand ladders too - and I feel I'm probably going to have to revert to the original Gmade shock springs at the rear, which are stiffer than the blue aftermarket ones current fitted, as the rear end is decidedly saggy now! Still, it actually moves in a very realistic way, and the added scale detail has given it a lot more visual appeal as a shelf-model too of course... More soon! Jenny
  12. Have a look at RC4WD and also ProLine - they have all manner of 1.9 size tyres in a huge range of widths and sizes. RC4WD particularly have some in more narrow widths compared to the diameter - what kind of outside diameter are you looking for? Also Ebay has plenty of more budget options from anything between 90mm-120mm diameter, with 115mm diameter being a popular size for trail and crawler vehicles. Those might be a bit large for a typical Tamiya body though, unless you plan to modify the wheel-arches. Jx
  13. If you're going to run on grass like that, I'd suggest you really need tyres with an O/D of at least 120mm or around 4.7-5.0" - anything less and you're going to start bellying out... You could always buy a buggy (DF-03 or similar chassis) and fit some aftermarket wheels & tyres (most run 12mm hexes these days) - this is what I did with my nephew's Rising Fighter for example - and with a faster motor as Jonathon suggests above, you'll probably make up for any performance shortfall in running a larger diameter wheel/tyre combo. Jx
  14. I freely admit that maths is not my strong point, well, not complex calculations at least... Following on from my post above, while I was heading down the right lines with my faster motor and some [primary] gear reduction, it turned out the 55T motor combined with the 3:1 reduction planetary gearbox was 'better' - certainly with a 1:1 transfer-case I'd temporarily mocked up - but it still lacked any meaningful acceleration and still appeared to have a limited top speed... photo. 55T 3-slot motor is still relatively slow spinning... and while the torque was improved with the 3:1 gearbox (above), it didn't offer the kind of 'racer' performance I was looking for. I'd read somewhere that the 'trick' in gaining performance is actually to 'power-up and gear-down' - ie. fit a faster motor, and correspondingly utilise lower [overall] gearing to maximise the torque from the motor, and give it a useful burst of inital acceleration, while the faster motor overall would correspondingly give a higher top speed... it was worth a try. I factored that fitting a 13T 5-slot motor (which I robbed out of another build to test the principle) to the 3:1 primary reduction gearbox together with the original 2:1 transfer case would give me a lot more acceleration, while the motor itself would ultimately spin twice as fast as the current 55T 3-slot... in other words, the [twice as] faster motor would compensate for the 2:1 reduction in the transfer case, resulting in better accelleration, and the same overall top speed (which it ought to reach much quicker too). And what do you know, it worked! photo. Holmes Hobbies 13T 5-slot motor, 3:1 planetary gearbox and 2:1 transfercase... RC4WD K44 axles offer a modest further reduction. In fact, I'd say it's a real rocket now - well, allowing for the fact that it's a heavy and top-heavy brut in general... it is certainly faster than I would feel prudent driving such a detailed 'scale' model, while it will spring off the line in a far more realistic way now - result! So, with that technical element solved, it was time to rewire and reassemble the vehicle - and incorporate a few modifications which I'd identified over the past year or so of running (or rather not running all that much) the vehicle... photo. scale V8 motor cover with custom detailing 454 badges, [working] oil dipstick and radiator/cowl with hoses and filler cap. I love the RC4WD twin-shock towers and scale Superlift dampers. As part of the re-wiring, I repositioned the ESC in a new [larger] side pod behind the driver's seat, and relocated the Receiver to the existing pod behind the passenger seat: photo. low-profile 'Hobbystar' ESC fits neatly in new pod - power switch easily accessed inside rear wheel-arch. photo. I also shortened and tidied the existing wiring with braided wrap, and rerouted it either side of the chassis rails under the interior floorpan. photo. and also endeavoured to tidy-up the rear light-bar wiring routing too (now that the Rx is on the other side of the chassis). So with everything refitted, tested and working again (and better than ever!), I thought I'd snap a few more photos for posterity, and highlight a few of my favourite features and elements of this build: photo. Originally conceived early last year (2020), I felt the 'Corona' colour-scheme and other detailing an appropriate if slightly obvious theme... photo. note twin-shock front suspension and battery detail under the flip-front hood. photo. all four wheels still in contact... despite being designed primarily as an off-road 'racer' the combination of leaf-spring front and 4-link coil rear suspension also offers an impressive degree of axle articulation... now it has some proper low-speed gearing, I'm confident it will make a fun trail explorer and even mild-crawler too. photo. driver is a customised Jim Hopper [Stranger Things] figure with a Sand Scorcher helmet and painted in 70's double denim. Bandana to help protect against dust and viral diseases! Note the speedometer is illuminated along with the rest of the lights. photo. flip front hood reveals fully-detailed engine bay - Big Block Chevy engine, battery, brake master cylinder, oil-dip-stick (removable), radiator, hoses, and even a steering column. Note scale battery cut-out switch on the cowl, is actually removable too. Hood is held in place with magnets, and supported on the front bumper and with scale hydraulic struts on either side of the chassis. photo. front panel is a ProLine spot-light rack, with four [Axial] lamps, and the centre grille portion trimmed with an aluminium mesh panel and Chevy/454 badging. Front bumper-bar is assembled using a series of 6mm diameter link rods and rod-ends. photo. at the rear, matching central recovery tow-point shackle, and California B.I.T.D licence plate. Tailgate net is removable to access the pair of spare wheels. RC4WD K44 axles offer more scale detailing than their typical Yota II style casings... and the front comes with XVD heavy-duty steering-shafts already installed. photo. fuel-filler neck detail to fabricated fuel-cell behind seats (which contains the 6-cell NiMh battery - charged in situ). Mild weathering to represent sand-blasted paintwork over a bare-metal body. photo. 1.55 size wheels and tyres more suited to this size build (note the original RC4WD Blazer body has been narrowed by 30mm overall, and every single panel altered in some way) - tyres are Associated/Element Trailwalker General Grabber AT pattern, just under 100mm overall diameter. photo. while carbon fibre panels may not be period correct, my backstory is this is a vintage vehicle still being raced in the modern day, and the original [heavy] hood and door panels have been replaced with lighter-weight alternatives. photo. along with , the Baja Blazer has pride of place in it's own dedicated display cabinet, complete with LED lighting. I hope you've enjoyed the initial build and subsequent evolution of this particular vehicle, and that it might inspire others to combine a seemingly random combination of parts from two or more different sources, to ultimately create something unique! Toot toot for now! Jenny x
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