Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3187 Excellent

About JennyMo

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

12956 profile views
  1. Yes - the ones above are Simon's pictures... he's an enthusiastic and accomplished photographer already, and had just bought a new mirrorless full-frame body he wanted to try out... he said that having a 1/10 scale model to work with now has opened up yet another avenue, and I'm expecting to see plenty more of the 'Dwarf' Dwarf in future! Jx
  2. A quick update to this thread too, although if I'm honest it's mainly just 'bold new graphics'... photo. matching front numberplate added too. photo. my trick to cutting around body screws is to use a hole punch. I always felt that simplicity was the key with this build - less is more etc. - so elected to replace the mix of smaller decals on each side panel with a larger version of the Hooli logo, and used one of the original 4" size trimmed as a bonnet decal instead. After all, as Beavis will tell you: "I am - [Capra] - Corn - Hooli - O! ...heh heh heh." Jenny x
  3. A quick update to this thread, now I've just got home from the Anza Borrego desert and some trail driving with Simon and the Red Dwarf TJ Wrangler I built for him recently... I took my JK for it's first real outing outside of the garden, and it was a joy to drive - it crawls really nicely with the supple suspension and 1080 ESC/55T motor combo - although I may fit a slightly faster motor in future to give a little more top-end speed. photo. "I'm not sure we're in WestWorld anymore Bernard?" photo. "You might be right..." photo. overlooking the Ocotillo Wells OHV area and Borrego Badlands... On my return, I thought I'd add a few more scale details - first of all a way to hold the spare wheel securely (as yes, it had almost taken their heads off during an inevitable roll-over!) photo. a simple M4 bolt through the rear load-bed, and a spare spinner (from a Vaterra Ascender cage as I recall?) And while the top was off, I thought I'd add a little more detail to the ProLine inverter mounted on the inner cubby: photo. servo/LED lighting wire with the metal core removed, used as cables to the terminals on the inverter (works well as scale battery cables too of course). I also revisited an idea I'd had earlier on during this build, and decided to chop the hard-top into separate sections: photo. slot fabricated from styrene strips... photo. corresponding tabs and magnets mounted to the now separated targa panels... photo. plus a magnet in each redundant screw-hole in the windscreen surround... The result: photo. open cabin to better show the interior details... photo. targa panels fit into slot in the rear hard-top section and are held in place to the screen surround with magnets at the front. photo. or full hard-top as before. I hope you like these latest mods! Jenny x
  4. A few photos that Simon took, now that he has his little* Jeep back home in Nevada: *or is it his full size one?! Jx
  5. A few snaps from our camping and 4-wheeling trip in the Anza Borrego desert last weekend: Jx
  6. cont. It was already pretty late in the evening - indeed, just a few hours before we'd have to get up at 5am and drive the 400 miles to meet Simon the following day - but I simply had to catalogue the finished build for posterity, as while I'm sure I'll see this vehicle again from time to time, this particular affair has ended up being all too brief to fully appreciate it myself! Gallery And some details: photo. Gmade rear bumper cut down to match Loops/Tamiya body width... photo. RC4WD metal Jeep badges... an expensive - but really essential - finishing touch. photo. custom gear levers and centre console remain attached to interior floor, while the dash is glued to the main body shell which is removed for battery changes. photo. RC4WD K44 cast axles front and rear - BFGoodrich KM2 tyres and a Tamiya Wrangler spare wheel cover. photo. modified Loops RC wipers, and custom bonnet hardware (made from bent aluminium wire)... subtle weathering as the 1:1 lives in a pretty rust-free environment. photo. Yeah Racing winch customised into a Warm M8000 - faux solenoid control box made from an x-acto knife blade box. photo. RC4WD Wrangler roof-rack perfect for mounting all sorts of scale accessories, and works surprisingly well as a roll-cage too! Can be removed with just six M2 screws for a more lighter-weight comp-crawler look if desired. photo. larger Injora JK Jeep wing mirrors pretty close to those fitted to the 1:1 vehicle. photo. Loops RC body set includes these well-detailed hood latches... turn-signals are from the Axial Racing light-bucket set. photo. Loops RC also include these smoked rear lamp lenses. Engraved 'vintage' Nevada licence-plates complete this particular personalisation. ...and of course, a handful of flex shots to finish! I've subsequently taken a few photos of it in the wild from last weekend too, which I'll post below shortly... Toot toot for now! Jenny x
  7. cont. Final assembly photo. windscreen surround masked and painted with Tamiya 'rubber black'. photo. Axial light buckets used to replicate TJ headlights and fender turn-signals. note the supplied hood latches need to be [super] glued on, and I also black-washed the various creases in the bodywork to add definition. photo. the Loops RC body-set includes these well-finished (ie. no need to paint them if you want them black) rubber fender extensions, which are perfect to represent the ones Simon has fitted to his 1:1 Jeep. note the subtile contrast between the unpainted black roof, and flat-black painted door-tops and window frames. photo. One thing I really wanted to include as a 'scale' detail was a Life is Good decal on the spare tyre cover, as Simon used to have one very similar on his 1:1 - fortunately I found an eBay seller who cut them in different sizes, including this 2" round version - result! photo. Loops RC include well-detailed rubber wipers as part of the body set, and steering wheel as part of their dash assembly - it's worth nothing that the supplied wipers are a little too long for the Wrangler windscreen however, so I need to cut the blades down on each end, and also shorten the arm of the passenger side wiper so that they fitted and looked correct. The gear levers are custom-assembled with a section of odds-and-sods I have in my stash, while the Axial bucket seats come with Corbeau decals, which I used on the head-rests and seat-belt straps. The crowning glory of course would be the full-length 'cage' style roof-rack, again very similar in style to the 1:1 one Simon had fitted a while ago (and still has in his garage)... this RC4WD rack [designed specifically for the Tamiya YJ body] is held on using six M2 screws, and can be easily removed if he ever wants to run the vehicle in more of a contemporary 'comp' style - so just like the real thing really! cont.
  8. cont. With the interior plate painted (Satin black for the interior, Matt black for inside the wheel-arches and the underside), I was able to finally install all the wiring and route the cables as neatly as possible: photo. initial installation... Unfortunately, when I then went to test-fit the body, it turned out the mounting screws would just not line up properly with the holes on the chassis mounts... it turns out that while I'd had the foresight to drop the ESC 15mm into the driver's footwell, the Receiver on the other side was just a few mm too high once the leads were plugged in - panic! There was nothing for it but to attack the freshly painted floorpan with Dr Dremel, and drop that side a similar amount, leaving plenty of room to plug in the Servo and ESC leads (and also the pig-tail for the lights): photo. needs must... at the 11th hour! It was actually simple enough to cut a couple of pieces of styrene to form a shelf to mount the Rx lower, and boost all the joints with Araldite in my usual fashion; and while the glue was out, I also glued in the mesh and headlight/turn-signal buckets - the 'Rapid' version of this epoxy setting in about an hour so that I could soon brush-paint over all the joints with flat black for a more professional finish. I also loosely masked off the corner of the interior and blew over the revised Rx mount with Satin and Flat black to match, and lightly sanded the whole interior to tone down any sheen, and match the existing: photo. The final electronics installation - good job I didn't shorten those Servo leads after all! note - I've realised that the plastic casing that these wireless winch receivers come in can be easily removed leaving just a tiny circuit-board, which I then shrouded in a length of heat-shrink and attached to the bulkhead with servo tape in the same way as the Rx and ESC. The final piece of the puzzle before the final assembly and detailing could begin was to slide the lexan side windows into their runners, and glue in the bottom rail and door cards: photo. 2mm styrene used to stand off the door cards, allowing the windows to slide up and down in their channels. photo. door-cards and dash installed, and an extension cable for the battery which in this installation is mounted under the rear deck of the body. cont.
  9. Right then, I've finally had some time and wifi to be able to wrap-up the finally assembly process - to recap, it was a manic 24 hours... photo. window apertures masked (to avoid overspray marking the inside of the Loops shell, which was rather fortunately already 'finished' in a matt black of course, so wouldn't really require any paint. note - I even elected to leave the hard-top section plain [unpainted] black plastic as I felt it was a good representation of a fibreglass hard-top which had slightly faded from the sun over the years... alternatively if you squint, it could almost be canvas too? photo. Fabricated trim parts which needed to be painted satin black - sill kick-plates and rear deck cover, mesh grille insert and door-cards to cover the sliding window workings. photo. YJ grille and wings converted to a TJ front end, including recesses for the 18mm headlight buckets. photo. I blew over the door-tops and window frames with a matt black paint, before masking and painting the red top coat on the bodywork (note. usually you'd aim to do any black paint at the end as it hides anything underneath, but I factored since the door tops and window frames were so small, they'd be easier to mask that trying to protect the whole [red] body instead). photo. Tamiya tape for the edges, regular 'household' masking tape for the larger panels photo. The Loops RC YJ dash kit comes complete with two sets of dial decals - I chose the more subtle black backgrounds, rather than the more bling white dials. photo. the Loops RC rear lamp housings come in a smoked colour (rather than clear as you can get from CCHand for example), but are very well detailed. I painted the inside of the lenses with Tamiya translucent red (the LEDs on the loom are also red, giving a nice rich colour when illuminated) and the lamp housings Flat black, again to replicate real plastic housings which have faded a bit in the sun over the years. photo. Initially I was worried the paint I'd chosen (Tamiya TS-8 'Italian Red') might not be a good match, but like a lot of these Tamiya sprays, the trick is to paint in a number of fine layers to build up the colour - which correspondingly means very little drying time is required between coats too. photo. with the roof and door tops un-masked, it was starting to look very much how I'd hoped! (note that a single can of TS-8 was just enough to paint the whole shell in a deep rich colour - with just a squit or two left in the can for me to touch-in any areas with a fine brush as required). cont.
  10. Quick update! ...it has been a manic 24 hours - this was this time last night: And spoiler alert, I've just finished it, tested it, and boxed it all up ready to leave at 5am tomorrow... The original inspiration... (note Simon now has BFG KM2 MTs on his 1:1, as per the model) I had to take a couple of liberties (not least the half-cab rather than a soft top of course), plus the sill kicker-plates don't have the sliders on as I ran out of time (and the plastic ones I'd bought looked shonky in comparison)... but otherwise it's a pretty close replica including, off the top of my head: Dana 44 axles, alloy eight-hole wheels (with black hubs) and disc rotor hex hubs/scale hardware, BFG KM2 tyres, 2.5" lift (ish) Warn M8000 winch (with separate solenoid box), shorty box bumper from and rear, with a pair of silver shackles on each, larger JK style mirrors, black door tops, roof-rack, spare tyre cover (with Life Is Good logo), skinny spare (as per the 1:1 ;o), flat fender extensions, bonnet latches, Jeep badges on front quarter panels, black metal kicker plates... Inside I've tried to include as many scale details as I can, and although technically it is not really the same as Simon's TJ, I trust he'll appreciate my poetic licence - I used the Loops RC YJ dash (complete with dial decals, painstaking cut out!), Axial 'Corbeau' bucket seats (similar silhouette to Jeep hi-back seats), plus I've fitted 4-point harnesses, and chrome knobs to the custom-made gear and transfer levers, and included a packet of crisps in the dash cubby! photo. fortunately because the interior is painted black, it effectively hides the fact the footwells are not full-depth. I also fabricated working sliding up/down side windows and cut door cards to hide the workings. I've taken dozens of photos before boxing it up, but I don't want to get too ahead of myself - I'll aim to cover the past 24 hours (including a bit of an under-bonnet wiring nightmare which required some styrene surgery to overcome!) in more detail after this weekend - hopefully with plenty of out-door/in-action photos from the desert too! So for now I'll leave you with this: photo. Built, not bought... (and in double quick time too!) Toot toot for now! Jenny x
  11. Ok then, rather than sit here watching paint dry, I thought I'd update the thread with a few more photos... With the body fitted, I was able to work out the dimensions of the interior, using guess-timating and trusty Cardboard Aided Design: photo. One-piece interior/engine bay/battery box. This time, I elected to fabricate the whole interior plate as one piece - held in place with just four screws - to aid fitting and any subsequent disassembly for the new owner. The two-seat interior section is similar to that which I'd made (using a mix of 1.5mm and 2mm styrene sheet) for the TJ-L previously, other than I made one compromise for speed and simplicity in having a flat floor throughout the cabin, rather than fabricate dropped footwells - due to the way the body is mounted to the longer body-mount brackets which run almost the length of the cabin... The decision was further justified in having factored that for what is likely to be primarily a runner, it would not be essential to have a full depth interior below the seat bases anyway - and should Simon ever want to incorporate a full-figure driver, then it would be easy enough (if time consuming) to modify the body mounts and drop the footwells 15mm or so as required. At the front, I've incorporated a simple shelf (hidden bellow the scuttle panel and behind the dash) to mount all the electronics - and since I've no choice packaging-wise to run a shorty 2S Lipo in this build too, have stepped one end of the shelf to fit the 30mm deep Hobbywing 1040 ESC - and once again, either by luck or good judgement, it means the power switch also pokes out perfectly into the drivers-side front wheel-arch for east access - noice! photo. All the electronics will mount up under the hood - the battery cable [will need extending] running under the cabin floor to the battery under the rear deck. With the dimensions sorted, the templates were transferred to styrene, and the whole construction tacked with superglue before all the joints being beefed-up with Araldyte 2-part epoxy. photo. holes [predrilled prior to painting] for mounting seats and gear lever. photo. test fitting the interior, erm, fittings... I elected to also fabricate a simple transmission tunnel for between the seats - to add more detail, and also give a better impression of depth - from 1mm styrene, and customised some spare gear and transfer levers I had in my stash. The seats are genuine Axial Racing ones (billed for the Wraith, but pretty universal of course) and some Team Raffee seat-belts which not only come as a pair but also pre-assembled, rather than the fiddle it is to put-together the individual Yeah Racing version - although those do come with longer harness straps should that be required. Fortunately in this instance, the rear parcel shelf is the perfect height for the seatbelt anchors with these shorter straps - again, using some spare seatbelt buckles I have in my stash of parts. So that is pretty much where I'm up to - the interior and body is now in the cardboard booth in the garage, primed and drying and almost ready for the colour coats... photo. one last look before the paint goes on! Other than the main painting itself - there is still a huge list of jobs, but I'm ploughing through it - all the bodywork trim pieces (rear deck cover, sill kick-plates, interior door cards and mesh grille) which also need to be painted black have been cut out and test-fitted... while the front turn signal and tail-lamp lenses have been coloured with appropriate Tamiya translucent paint. Fortunately the dash is well-finished enough (in matt black plastic) to not require painting, nor will the seats, steering wheel, wipers, hood latches and not least the black rubber fender flares which are all very will finished from Loops RC. However, Rather than use the rather squiddy size 'Tamiya' shape mirrors they supply as part of the kit, I'll use the larger more contemporary ones I got with my 2-door JK body recently, which more accurately represent the ones Simon has fitted to his 1:1 Jeep anyway - again, no prep required, just a hole drilled in the door and they'll pop right in! The other thing I've done now that the body and interior has been removed and prepped for painting, is to go through the chassis and thread-lock all the key screws which might feasibly come undone in use - primarily the suspension links and shocks. A good number of the screws are secured with nyloc nuts of course, but where any thread directly into a tapped hole, I've used a dab of blue [semi permanent] thread-lock in an effort to minimise and trail catastrophes... it's worth noting that I've found that metal bottom shock rod-ends are particularly prone to backing out as the suspension continually cycles over rough terrain. I also took this opportunity to 'pin' all the drive shafts - that is use a single through pin rather than a pair of set-screws, and again used blue thread-lock in an effort to stop those pins backing out. I also trimmed 3mm off the outer sleeve of the shortened rear prop, so that it no longer closes completely even during full compression or side to side articulation - I'm calling that done! So hopefully I'll be in a position to get some colour coat on a little later this afternoon, then I expect to start the final assembly tomorrow... Toot toot for now! Jx
  12. Taking a quick break to update you all... Face lift done*: photo. *I still have to cut the recessed holders for the Axial 18mm lamps I'll be using as headlights, otherwise the front end is now sorted... And since this is a hard-top with full-height doors, I factored I might as well make the most of the discrepancy and make the side windows slide up and down! photo. tiny styrene channel used to create window runners. I've actually done this before of course, on Ozzy's YJ Jeep - although subsequently I removed the doors completely so this feature is now consigned to the stack of old parts in the corner of the scale garage... photo. Mk 1 version of the sliding windows - I subsequently incorporated a similar design into Hopper's HiLux, and so now was pretty confident I could just replicate the original layout on this latest build. First of all I cut the supplied windows along the line where the quarter window would meet the main window, then created a back-to-back runner using 2mm wide styrene U channel (factoring the 0.75mm lexan windows would sliding easily enough in the 1mm groove). I created a second single sided runner using more U channel and some 2mm half round (for rigidity), and then superglued these in parallel inside the window frames - note the 'window' here is a spare piece of lexan I cut as a pattern so as not to potentially damage the proper window pieces. photo. note. I've positioned the bottom rail approximately 5mm higher than having the glass fully lowered, otherwise you'd never be able to pull them up again! I then braced either side of the runners (including a short brace below where the front quarter window will sit), and also built up the thickness of the door (again using 2mm styrene) so that the door cards can be glued directly on top, providing a suitable gap for the glass to slide up and down inside. It's worth noting that this will be done during the final assembly, as currently the deep lower door rails are not glued on since I need to slide the window glass in first of course. Right, back to the grindstone...! Jx
  13. Right, we are back in business! Well that took a bit longer than I was hoping, but I'm pleased to say the last piece of the puzzle finally arrived this morning - the complete 'Wrangler Racing Special' body-set from Loops RC: photo. it's going to require some work, but I'm confident it's going to work out well! As I'd explained previously, having been unable to source a suitable body-shell for this project - I ended up ordering the Loops RC body (all the way from the Czech Republic), as it really is the only way these days to get a 'Tamiya' Wrangler - albeit still with the YJ grill and other detailing of course, being based on that original hard-top body. Fortunately I'd already converted a genuine Tamiya shell into what I consider a pretty successful TJ-L recently, so hopefully building another would now be straightforward enough since all the potential issues ought to now be ironed out... Having checked all the required parts where there (including their excellent bolt-on rubber fender flares, which look almost exactly like those on the 1:1 Jeep), I offered up the main body-shell, and other than sitting a bit too high initially, found I'd pretty much got the wheelbase bang on for this body, which was a relief. All I had to do to get the body to sit as low as possible was trim the rear valence down directly underneath the tail-gate - as I've done to both my TJ and YJ too - and in this instance, since I'm retaining the super-short 250mm wheelbase - shorten the overhanging chassis rails and finally mount the rear bumper, using, as it turns out, a pair of Tamiya plastic servo mounts which were the perfect fit between the chassis rails and the holes in the rear face of the bumper - result! Meanwhile at the front, I simply notched the corners of the grille panel so it sits lower between the chassis rails, and having got the stance pretty much bang-on already, elected to use a set of ebay body mounts - typically used for mounting a Trailfinder cab on an SCX10 chassis for example - again as I'd done with my own TJ build, and drilled the sill panels so that the body mounts with two screws on each side in the usual fashion. note. I do apologise for not having many photos of today's activities - but it really was just jigging around, including an abortive attempt to mount the rear bumper using the supplied bracket initially (before my revelation noted above!), which involved lot of Dremeling and hacksawing to finally get the rear of the chassis sorted - so I've skipped to the conclusion, not least as you probably appreciate I'm rather up against the clock this week, having only three days left now until this has to be finished, tested and ready to transport! Having finalised the body height (as low as possible, while still allowing the axles to fully articulate without the tyres rubbing on the fenders), I also felt it was feasible to clock the motor on the transmission [one notch] after all - in an effort to lower the centre of gravity further - which required a small notch to be Dremel'd out of the front driver's side suspension tower so that the motor mounting plate would clear (since this chassis has wider built-in shock towers, rather than the bolt-on kind): Finally, after drilling and cutting and filling and tweaking all afternoon and into the evening, we were finally getting closer to what I'd envisaged originally: photo. Ok, so it's not technically a soft-top as per the 1:1 inspiration, but if you squint I feel the truck-cab looks a lot like a bikini top - and more importantly, once the frame style roof-rack is fitted (along with the spare tyre) - the fenders, wheels, tyres, winch, and what will be a TJ grille will make this a pretty close representation of the real thing? I've already cut a checker-plate panel for the rear deck/tonneau cover, together with some smooth aluminium kick panels for the sills which I'll paint black (as per the 1:1), and you may notice in the photo above that I've fitted a spare tyre inside the wheel cover on the tailgate (it's actually the tyre which came with my 2-door JK body-set which I built most recently) - specifically with the 'Wrangler' lettering showing because, well duh! - and also as a subtle joke because Si doesn't have a full-size spare on his 1:1 Jeep either as I recall ;o) The other body details I want to include are some sill bars/sliders - again as per the 1:1 vehicle - although in this instance due to time (and budget!) constraints, I've elected to just buy some cheap plastic RC4WD Marlin sliders and will mount those below the body sills for the time being - the idea being that if Simon wants to replace them with some pukka metal ones somewhere down the line, they'll be easy to remove and replace. photo. Original (Trailfinder length) side bars cut down for shorter wheelbase... photo. ... pinned with spare axle pins... photo. ...and glued back together! And finally for now (as I really have to get some sleep, and crack on again in the morning!), I've also added some metal cleats to the bonnet - again in the same way as I have with my own TJ and the YJ before it - although in this instance there were no moulded parts to remove as the bonnet comes plain on this Loops RC example: photo. folding windscreen cleats replicated using fine aluminium rod bent with thin-nose pliers, and ultimately will be glued in. And finally for now - it looks like someone has got a face-pack on! photo. YJ lamp apertures filled with styrene panel (bonded in from the rear with Araldite epoxy) and Isopon P38 body-filler used to smooth over the headlight and YJ style moulding turn signals... I'll be fitting working lamps in the front of the fenders instead, as per the TJ front end. More soon! (although maybe not until it's finished... or if I get a moment while the paint is drying perhaps!) Jenny x
  14. May 2021: Another update... Having added more and more working/scale details and accessories to a couple of other builds recently, I felt the BJ was now looking rather simple in comparison; so I thought I'd have a go at making a working folding windscreen - and also construct a snorkel to add further detail... photo. it doesn't look all that different, but it's the little things... right? Since I'd chopped the original RC4WD bodyshell around (narrowing it 25mm and lowering the roof approx 10mm), this meant I'd also had to fabricate my own [shorter] windscreen surround, and made up some fake hinges for either end of the scuttle panel: Fortunately the lower edge of the screen surround also coincided with the top of the dash panel I'd fabricated, so it was easy enough to just run the Dremel cut-off wheel along the crease and remove the whole screen: I then cut some working scale hinges (from Locked-Up RC as I recall) diagonally to fit the recess, and cut down the opposite tab so that it would fit under the windscreen - hopefully holding the screen at a similar angle to the original. To further secure the screen in the upright position, I also fabricated a simple draw bolt on each side - using a short length of tube with a smaller diameter rod inside, bent as a bolt - and recessed the sides of the screen so the bolt would not fall out when withdrawn: At the same time, I also constructed an 'old school' style snorkel using some larger diameter aluminium tube, and some spare plastic parts I had - the flexible hose is from a scale engine air-intake set, and the cap is actually an Axial light bucket, with the back filled in and a mesh grille cut to fit the lens recess: Rather than try and fabricate metal straps or use zip-ties to secure it to the cage (note it's secured the cage hoop so that the screen can be folded up and down of course), I elected to tap the tube and use M3 set screws and nuts, plus a dollop of epoxy to create a mount which would interface with a similar M3 tube glued to the cage - again using epoxy to simulate a welded connection: photo. set screws locate in short tube/ mounting lugs on the cage, and are glued in. note also the foam weather strip to seal the gap between the scuttle and bottom of the folding screen, and the small tubes for the draw bolts to secure the screen when upright. Because the back/inside of the windscreen was now likely to be visible more of the time (when folded down), I also elected to trim the inside in a similar way to that which I'd done on the outside - using 2mm 1/2 round styrene strip as a screen rubber: And then masked everything to make painting in the tiny diameter rubbers (using Tamiya XF-85 'Rubber Black') a breeze: A couple of dabs of superglue and the screen was reattached using the new folding hinges, and the draw bolts hold it nice and secure in the upright position: photo. I took the opportunity to add a little crusty rusting too... of course. ...meanwhile when the screen is down, the draw bolts are held in place in the recess on each side: Fortunately, because the existing wipers are those fancy metal kind with actual springs in them (so they snap nicely against the windshield), if you move them to the vertical position prior to folding the screen, they just bend forward when the screen is folded down - although they could also always be removed of course... photo. Because my screen is slightly shorter than the original version, it doesn't sit on top of the dedicated bonnet catches in the same way when folded down - however, it was actually simple enough to make up a bungee with a central hook to hold the loop I'd embedded in the top rail of the screen instead. I also took this workbench opportunity to incorporate a few more scale details - some additional items in the load-bed, and being more and more an African outback style truck these days, complete with Stan Lee driving in his safari suit - added some suitable decals on the rear fender... photo. Wakanda Forever! I hope you like these latest (if subtle) mods! Jenny x
  • Create New...