JennyMo

As a thought - the flip side would be if you were using a Lexan body which you want/need to paint from the inside (although if authenticity is you goal, then you can always paint Lexan shells on the outside too [with the correct paint/primer] if you wish - it's what some 'scale' builders choose to do, although personally I don't like Lexan as a body material, much preferring a traditional hard-body) - then ideally you would paint your top coat colour first inside [just as you would as usual with a Lexan shell], then sand/chip away at the colour areas where you want the exposed metal to show through, then back the whole interior with your silver 'aluminium' colour, and it will show through the gaps in the paint you've made, while the top coat is still 'on top' of the metal when viewed from outside. Jx note. With a clear Lexan shell, one might also be tempted to simply paint the silver 'metal' colour in patches first where you want it, then painted the top coat over the rest (to save you sanding/chipping) - and from a distance perhaps the appearance would be pretty similar, however keep in mind that on closer inspection the 'metal' would be on top of the colour coat, when you actually want the reverse to be true of course - but ultimately that is also an option if authenticity is not a high priority and you want to achieve the effect most quickly on a Lexan body... personally I'd not choose either, but do it the traditional way building up the layers of paint on the outside of the shell.

Hi Ben - it really depends on how much work you want to put in, but essentially if you consider the effect you want to achieve being the same on a real vehicle - that is layers of paint, starting with the metal, then primer then the coloured top coat - so that is the order you need to paint your body (on the outside), and then sand away at the top coat to reveal the other layers below. There are other techniques you can use if you want more deterioration/rust effect, such as sprinkling salt between the [thinner the better coats] layers of paint - and then washing the body at the end so the salt dissolves and leaves a pock-marked finish with the colour below showing through - but based on your photo above, you ought to be able to achieve that effect by lightly sanding (with really fine grit wet&dry paper - 1500+ for example) to wear through the top coat/s to reveal the colour layer/s underneath. As a suggestion, you can buy an 'aluminium' silver paint as the base 'metal' coat, then use a layer of automotive primer - red oxide would would be better than grey in this instance perhaps if you wanted more contrast between the silver 'metal' and the yellow top coat - then start lightly sanding where you want the top colour to be removed. If you're using this sanding technique, then it pays to also use a good [plastic] primer initially so that your 'metal' colour coat sticks well, and start with a reasonably thick base layer, and get progressively thinner (which is another reason that choosing a dark, or at least vivid top coat is a good idea, as it can be sprayed more thinly), so that when you sand you're not taking too much of the previous layers off at the same time - hence the reason for using a really fine grit sandpaper too. Hope that helps... note. there are plenty of examples of all sorts of weathering - from mild to extreme - here on TamiyaClub, take a look in the Builds thread section if you're looking for further inspiration and descriptions of how those were achieved, and indeed I've used various techniques on a range of my models in the past. Jenny x

So glad you posted these here in this thread too - they are excellent! Let's hope it inspires a whole bunch of other Lego mini-mes over the coming weeks! Jenny x

I know what you mean - it might be a little strange layout wise - although no more strange that the F150 body on the SRB chassis I'm sure?! Looking forward to what you come up with - I see a Baja racer style paint job perhaps? Jenny x

I am looking forward to you making this happen! Jenny x

Saw this, and had to watch it - only in Essex! - awesome! Jenny x

Ha - I was just going to say everything that Grastens has suggested! In addition, Knight Customs (Toykid here on TamiyaClub) also makes a series of accessories - including a dedicated chassis plate - available on Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/knightcustoms?section=Tamiya+SRB+Beach+Buggy+conversion&s=0 Again, you could utilise the SRB running gear, and always convert it back to a Sand Scorcher in future if you wished? Jenny x ps. note that the main body tub is expensive from Shapeways - but it's quite possible it is the same dimensions as the Tamiya Sand Rover shell, so a bit of work could see them together if you did decide to use his chassis plate? Otherwise if you do make your own version (2mm thick aluminium is what I use for chassis) you've still got the option of adding his scale VW engine and some of the other accessories?

A quick update (based on a comment that the twin batteries while connected to each other, were not actually connected to the vehicle of course!) - Two short pieces of servo wire, two cut-down scale M2 bolt heads, and some superglue gel: Done! Jx

I think that sounds like a great project - re-engineering is always fun, and especially if the mechanics essentially drop in - then all you need to do is make your own pew pew noises ;o) Go for it! Jx

I agree, it was an oversight as I was so keen to get the side windows* glued in too... duly noted ;o) *Personally I'd prefer to leave the face of the vertical divider body colour, but agree their should be a rubber strip on the return edges around the glass. Jx

Hi Tudorp - sorry no, that was not me I'm afraid... Until the beginning of last year was mainly living in the UK (although somewhat ironically perhaps was involved in the Land Rover and 4x4 scene over there for a good number of years) - although in recent years had started to spend a lot more time in the US, and have now moved here permanently. Glad you liked the Fro-Sco - that was always one of my favourite builds (having loved the Sand Scorcher ever since I was a kid), and I do have a [currently dormant] project based on a similar concept that I really should revisit soon, if I could only shake this current crawler chassis disease! Jx

Hi Tudorp - my ears are burning ;o) If you've not found it already, the original build thread for my STUMPscorcher is buried back here: STUMPscorcher - which ought to show you in some detail how I shortened and reshaped the Sand Scorcher Shell to fit on the WR-02 Chassis. edit. unfortunately I realise that a lot of those photos have now been hijacked by Photobucket, so I apologise if they are not especially helpful now... Fortunately I did catalogue most of the key steps in a series of entires in the Extra Info section in my showroom, with photos hosted here on TamiyaClub - starting here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=121992&id=25648 Feel free to ask any other questions, and as Biz73 says - looking forward to seeing your result - original WW2 colours would be cool! Jenny x

And on that subject, I was watching this video just yesterday! Jx

I agree - I drove their RTR Bronco recently, and it is a really good package - not just the functionality (two-speed gearbox and individual front and rear locking diffs), but the smoothness of the motor and transmission, suspension, even the Transmitter - it really is excellent value at around $450. Another RTR package that already performs well and would be ripe for upgrades in the future if/as required, is the Redcat Gen 8 Scout ($299 RTR) - they do a higher-end electronics version (brushless motor and programable ESC/Transmitter at $499), but I'd say the $299 version would be a great starting point if you are already looking at various $200+ 'builders kit chassis options, since the Redcat has everything - electronics, body, wheels & tyres for $100 more. Perhaps stick a more detailed hard-body on it, and you're set! note. Redcat also offer their Gen 8 chassis as a builders kit including the portal axles for $169. Jx

Hi Phiber - a little input from my perspective: I've increasingly been using scale ladder chassis for my projects in recent years, and with regard to the overall geometry, they are all much of a muchness with regard to using C channel outer rails (RC4WD use solid rails) and various cross-members in either plastic or metal to brace the chassis and attach the motor/gearbox and suspension links/shocks etc. So it really depends on what you want to do with this vehicle - and specifically how far you feel you might want to deviate from standard specification - if it's a four-link/coil shock suspension then it's simple enough to adjust the wheelbase to suit different body styles just by fitting different length links (typically to just the rear axle is sufficient) and perhaps a longer/shorter rear prop - and this can be achieved with essentially 'universal' parts from Ebay etc. (pretty much every prop-shaft has a 5mm internal bore, and there are any number of 6mm diameter rods and associated ball-ends available). However, if you plan to upgrade the running gear, then different brands are better or lesser supported - as Max Ax says above, by far the most widely supported (and copied/dimensionally patterned) platform is the Axial SCX10 (essentially superseded by the SCX10 II now which is dimensionally similar, but uses a pan-hard rod/3-link front end) - and indeed a lot of the other 3rd party chassis and crossmember components are interchangeable with only a minimal amount of modification. for info. I have a set of HPI Venture axles on a current rolling chassis I'm building - mainly because they were a good price (new take-off parts) via E bay - other builds I have use RC4WD 'scale' axles (both genuine and Ebay copy versions, there is a difference) and some SCX10 pattern aluminium axles too. Essentially what I'm saying is everything is pretty much mix and match with this kind of chassis platform - but you do have to be prepared to do a little 'engineering' yourself - not necessarily and machining or welding you understand - but mixing and matching, perhaps cutting/shortening certain components to fit with others. As a starting point, I would probably go with one of the 'raw chassis builders kits' from any of the main players - they all cost around the £200/$200 mark - as that will get you familiar with how this style of platform goes together, and which components can be swapped out as required - choose a body shell and mate the two together with the correct length 4-links, and start driving it... you may find that the stock specification is more than sufficient; but if/when things do break, or you simply want to experiment with more travel, higher clearance linkages etc. then even swapping one manufacturers axles or transmission for another in not unheard of in this discipline. Hope that helps! Jenny x edit. some examples of what I'm talking about: photo. this chassis is an Ebay 'copy' of the RC4WD Gelande/Tralfinder style - solid rails, and in this instance has multiple locations for cross-members and suspension mounts pre-drilled - so very easy if you want to start out with a true custom build. I've used HPI Venture axles, custom-made links (together with an off-the-shelf aluminium Y upper link for the venture chassis for the rear, which just needed slightly bending to fit this chassis); RC4WD motor, R3 gearbox and transfer case, and an Ebay metal-geared servo which is plenty good enough for trail and general crawling. This layout has the motor and gearbox in the forward location, leaving the floorpan area free for a full depth interior if you wish, while the battery (I like to use NiMh 6-cell packs too still) can typically mount across the chassis under the seatbox. photo. similarly, this is another example using the same Ebay chassis, but this time the plan is to have more of a scale build - including a detailed engine bay (that is a V8 motor cover over the 540 motor, which has been centrally mounted in this installation with a planetary gearbox and uses a different style of centre transfer case). The axles are RC4WD (actually Chinese copies) scale 'Yota II' axles, which are suitable for both a 4-link/coil set-up or leaf-spring mounting should you wish - and in this instance I've chosen to have a custom long-arm 4-link coil set-up at the rear, but at the front used the RC4WD leaf-springs and twin-shock mounts (all these kinds of parts are available separately as well as in a kit, although typically a kit is a cheaper way to buy them, especially if you need a good number of components from the same model). photo. Finally this is more of the 'traditional' route to building a scale crawler - this is the Vanquish VS4-10 chassis kit, with a dedicated stainless steel link kit for a 12.0" wheelbase, 3rd party aluminium 'SCX10 II' style axles (which have the panhard rod mount machined in as required), a centrally mounted aluminium '3 gear' transmission (again, this is 3rd party, but the same dimensions/mounting pattern as an SCX10) and Ebay aluminium adjustable shocks and wheels. Note you can spend high hundreds and into the $1000+ easily if you go for all the high-end Vanquish axles, links, shocks, gearbox etc. - their 'Pro' kit for example is $750, and that is without any motor & electronics - but their chassis kit is actually a reasonable way to get started if you know you want a custom build, as it is dimensionally the same as an SCX10 II, just with higher axle clearance for more travel.