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JennyMo

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Everything posted by JennyMo

  1. Well, I finally got a chance to hook up some electronics this afternoon, and you know what? - it works! photo. initial motor/gearbox location - ultimately I had to move the assembly rearwards 10mm as the battery ended up resting on the edge of the motor once the [hard case] 2S Lipo was installed... However, while dynamically I'm pleased with the overall pose and stance, and handling on those plush shocks - there are a couple of issues which I've only begun to resolve... The good news is that despite taking a stab in the dark, the combination of the 550 12T 3-slot motor and 3:1 planetary gearbox (together with a further reduction in the rear axle pinyon and ring of course) means the speed and acceleration is similar to my SRB based Cage Racer for example, and similarly with a locked rear diff means donuts galore - result! The bad news however is that I feel the motor is struggling to spool up initially, drawing more amps? than ideal, and the result after about 5-10 minutes running with a basic 1040 ESC meant both the motor and ESC got really hot - too hot to touch comfortably for more than a few seconds... So I swapped out that [un-programmable] ESC for a Hobbywing 1080 which allowed me to disengage the drag-brake element completely and run it freewheel/overrun mode too, so offering throttle characteristics more akin to a traditional RC buggy than a crawler, and the ESC seems to be handling the current draw much better than before - although the motor, and now the gearbox too I realise is still getting very hot after a few minutes high-speed running. photo. revised set-up: motor/gearbox moved backwards on the chassis plate, and a 1080 ESC installed to handle the current draw of the fruity motor. If anyone with more electronic and gearing knowledge can chip in with some suggestions I'd appreciate it, although I fear the issue is primarily that I'm trying to run what is essentially a crawler motor and gearbox combo at much higher [rotational] speeds than they were really designed to do? As such, it's possible I'm going to have reconsider my live-axle rear end on this build, and perhaps use a more traditional 2WD buggy set-up - either from Tamiya [again] or even a 2WD Traxxas Slash or similar? photo. so far it's been great fun testing it wizzing up and down the road - although it's on the dirt I think this RWD buggy is going to really shine... So I'm going to look at some alternative transmission options now - and as I mentioned above, would also welcome any advice/suggestions with regard to the current set-up and how I might reduce the heat and improve things there... More soon!
  2. OK then! A quick update to this thread since some more parts have arrived in the post... photo. what can be make with this little lot then? As mentioned previously, I've taken a punt on what is essentially an in-line transmission (which can then be mounted down the centre of the cabin) - using a Homes Hobbies 12T 550 motor (basically the fastest non-brushless option they offer), together with a short (approximately 1" long) 3:1 planetary gearbox, and rather fortunately already had this rudimentary motor mount kicking around in my used-spares stash... What has turned out to be most fortuitous is that the length of the motor shaft while being a touch too long to fit inside the planetary gearbox without trimming down, is actually the perfect length if I were to sandwich the mounting bracket between them - which in turn helps to balance out the weight of the two which would otherwise be very heavy towards the unsupported (front) end! I also purchased a 3mm to 5mm shaft coupling - which turned out to be both much longer and chunkier than I expected - still, it might work well as a flywheel and/or to minimise any transmission vibrationed perhaps, in what will be a directly mounted prop-shaft to the rear axle: photo. note the gearbox output shaft will of course be trimmed a little shorter than shown here... Ultimately I might well just cut a short spacer from a length of 3mm I/D and 5mm O/D tube, much as I did before with the which features a similar transmission (using a short prop shaft between the 3mm planetary gearbox output and traditional 4x4 transfer case), and mount the prop directly to the gearbox shaft, if only to save a little space - but equally this coupling might well prove the most satisfactory solution to convert the 3mm output shaft to a 5mm stub axle for the prop to attach. Wheelie good! The other thing currently under consideration is the adoption of the larger diameter wheel/tyre combo after all - not least as they add a heap of scale detail (particularly with the hex wheel-stud hardware), and while the track width is now 225mm at the front (and 220mm at the rear with the offset SLW hubs), I feel that the overall stance while certainly 'aggressive', is not too far from what it might be for a 1:1 long-arm desert racing buggy that you might find ripping around Johnson Valley etc. - although in that regard perhaps I should have chosen a heavily braced F9 style axle instead? photo. my favourite [Method Roost] 1:1 style wheels, and with some pretty scale BFGoodrich MT style soft and skinny tyres fitted too. photo. 725 width SLW hubs to help* compensate for the disparity in front and rear track width in using an SCX10 II width solid axle together with the long-arm independent front end from a Tamiya DT-02 buggy. *Note that I purposely chose to retain a slightly more narrow rear track width (although it's hard to spot once all four wheels are fitted), factoring I can always widen the rear wheels a little further with some Vanquish XD hub covers I also have in my stash - which actually sandwich between the wheel and the SLW hubs, adding a few more mm width on each side. So I trust that with the new wheel and tyre combo in place, you'll agree that the buggy is looking a lot more Capra-esque now? - and at the same time from a practical point of view ought to be usefully more stable with the slightly wider footprint... I guess it's time to rig up the electronics and find out! More soon!
  3. Indeed - although this particular one is going to be more of a sprinter than a climber I feel ;o) Jx
  4. Hi Rusty - currently the rear axle has a solid (locked) spool gear (as per a crawler style iteration) which should make for some authentic 'SRB' style sideways action! I'm not sure if there is an open diff option for these SCX10 II style axle housings, but if so that might well be a consideration eventually... in other news, I managed to snaffle a pukka Tamiya ball-diff on Ebay recently for my dormant SRB 'Mega-Bug' Scorcher project, so we might see that dusted off shortly too! Jx
  5. Hi Nikko - probably, although the disparity isn't all that bad, and the wider front track ought to keep it tracking in a straight line for the comparatively short wheelbase and higher centre of gravity... As I mentioned above, I also have set of alternative wheels with 100mm diameter BF Goodrich MT style tread for a more scale appearance, and have ordered some SLW hubs from Locked-UP RC so I can mount them to the 2WD stub axles and hexes on the rear - in that regard, I've chosen the version of the rear hubs which are approximately 9mm wider that the fronts on either side, so that essentially the track width with then the same front and rear - although visually perhaps overly wide at the back? - I'll post some photos once those parts arrive. Jx
  6. I like this idea very much... indeed I've had a similar one recently for my dormant 'Car 72' project, which is currently most of a Sand Scorcher on it's own aluminium chassis too - factoring the Super Champ rear suspension might be just the ticket to make it more interesting. Thank you for the excellent illustration of just how far out the back the shock sits! Jx
  7. That is quite the collection, however if you are looking for that kind of money then I fear you're going to have to do a little more work for it... at least list the key models in your collection, and ideally post a few individual photos of the best/most valuable ones at least? I also feel you'll get more if you aim to sell those key items off individually, then bundle the rest once you've made the majority of what you are looking for... Jx
  8. cont. I have to admit, I am rather pleased with how this all went together first time - using a cardboard template certainly helped to get the initial dimensions in the ball-park, but ultimately a bit of eyeballing and some good luck resulted in me only having to cut one chassis, and take my time filing, grinding and drilling to make sure everything lined up as I envisaged: The result is a 290mm wheelbase, with the chassis canted slightly forward/nose-down - factoring you'd probably want it that way anyway for landing any jumps on the rear wheels. Currently there is no motor or electronics installed just yet (which may level it out a little), and the neat thing about the Capra cage is that it includes a battery compartment below the windscreen under the hood which takes a shorty 2S Lipo - however, that is likely to bias the weight distribution slightly more forward of course, so it's going to take some tweaking to get the final stance settled I feel - perhaps using a combination of softer springs at the rear and/or stiffer ones on the front? photo. front 75mm shocks, with aftermarket springs. Rather fortunately I've been able to utilise a pair of Tamiya Frog rear shock bodies on the front, and these are actually the same diameter as the Gmade RSD shocks on the rear, which means I could purchase a set of alternative springs and mix-and match as required (for info. it's the RC4WD King Shock spring assortment for their 90mm shocks, which use a pair of 35mm long springs). I have to say, these shocks are super plush and really well damped - so much so that I will need to rebuild the rather springy Gmade shocks and use a thicker oil too I think to make them more evenly matched. photo. with these buggy wheels, the track width is 205mm at the front (vs. 185mm at the rear) - although being rather top heavy compared to a traditional buggy I suspect this will actually pay dividends with regard to handling and stability. Plus the long-arm wishbones at least offer a decent amount of travel and ground clearance... photo. the rear axle is a CNC billet aluminium aftermarket option based on the SCX10 II dimensions (I've used the same ones on the Ghetto Vanquish and have been impressed with the quality), and I've added some scale hex hardware to the diff cover, just because it looks kewl! Now admittedly while these buggy wheels are not exactly 'scale', they are very nicely finished (again, these are Ebay aftermarket aluminium options for the DT-02/03), I do feel in this instance the buggy is likely to handle better on these than it might on taller and more narrow tyres... Indeed, I did initially purchase a set of 1.9 size 100mm diameter BFGoodrich tyres, together with some of my favourite Method Roost alloy wheels which utilise the SLW hubs (you can get a 2WD freewheel version via Locked-Up RC, which I used on the SRB Cage Racer for example), so that is an option in future perhaps - although it does increase the track-width at the front by about 15mm unfortunately, hence these positive offset buggy wheels and lower profile tyres being fitted in their place for the time being. photo. DT-02 shock tower fits perfectly in the gap created by removing two short portions of the lower cage braces - note also how neatly the steering servo sits under the batter compartment in the Capra cage! Power! I've currently fitted a shorty servo as a placeholder, since I'm not sure how much room I'm going to have in the centre of the cabin to mount the motor and associated electrics - particularly as I'd like to try and incorporate some sort of dropped/scale interior too, albeit a simple one to reflect the primary 'runner' nature of this build. My plan is to use a 12T 3-slot 550 motor (which is pretty much the fastest for the budget I'm prepared to invest so far in this folly), paired with a 3:1 planetary gearbox, which then directly drives the prop-shaft to the rear axle (which of course has it's own further reduction ratio). I haven't even begun to try and work out the final gear ratio and potential top speed, it's going to be very much suck-it-and-see I suspect - although it ought to be appreciably faster than the set-up in my current Capra... as long as it does donuts and jumps on demand I'll be happy! Mounting the motor and transmission longitudinally down the centre of the chassis ought to leave some room either side for an interior of sorts, and I already have a pair of bucket race seats which will suit the style of this build perfectly... photo. playing around with some old Capra body panels in my collection... these custom carbon [covered] hood and roof panels would work well on this style of vehicle I feel? But equally, I think these aluminium 'Hooli' hood and side panels are probably the direction I'll go in - not least as it adds to the high [bare] metal content in this build already? So I'm now just waiting for the motor and gearbox to arrive in the [Christmas] post, and then should have a runner... More soon! Jenny x
  9. I've had an idea... actually, it's more of an idea since today the aluminium sheet arrived so I could finally cut my front subframe and tie the two halves together, hence waiting until now to start this thread, as I have something other than a pile of random parts to show you... And random they certainly are - this latest build being what a consider the epitome of 'kit-bashing' - in an effort to hopefully create something unique and fundamentally not seen before (if google can be trusted) - and as such, while I will endeavour to include a number of traditional scale elements to this build as usual, since the two primary donor vehicles are not what you'd consider 'scale' build material in the traditional sense - this is going to be more about building a basher style runner than a full-on shelf queen. So what have we got? photo. Axial Capra cage/body, skid plate and a solid [straight] axle at the rear... As a bit of background, I already have a 4WD Capra which I built up from a bare cage cassis (very reasonably priced at $35 these days) and modified with much more narrow RC4WD Yota II axles and more modest diameter (115mm) tyres: It is such a hoot to drive, and since fitting a 13T 5-slot motor recently has quite the turn of speed now too, while remaining smooth and controllable for trail style crawling... and it was that speed element which got me thinking - what If I put an even faster motor and more simple transmission into a Capra cage, just power the rear axle, and install a [wider track] independent front suspension to try and keep thing thing going in a straight line? A tale of two halves... The rear end was simple enough (as per the photo at the top of the page) - in this instance the 4WS Capra cage set (for info. it's $5 cheaper then the original version, and is basically the same other than the cage is slightly tapered upwards at the rear above the axle), plus an aluminium aftermarket skid-plate assembly together my own custom 4-link set-up using a series of shortish rods and ends, so that the axle was located just behind the shock tower brackets on the cage. The SCX10 width aluminium straight axle is supported on a pair of 80mm long Gmade RSD reservoir shocks, in this instance with some much softer aftermarket springs installed - so ultimately there is nothing really new under the sun here - these are all parts I've used before on other builds, and so was confident will be more than up to the job in this slightly higher performance iteration too. The front end however did initially cause me some head-scratching - not least as I didn't want a huge disparity between the front and rear track widths (most 1/10 scale IFS buggies being significantly wider in track than a 1/10 scale crawler for example...) and in that regard an obvious independent front end to utilise might have been the Element Enduro IFS conversion kit... however, not only is that technically a 4WD set-up and correspondingly a $100 since it includes a front differential assembly I'd not be using, but since it has now been discontinued (for some reason?), it seemed my only option was to look at which buggies might offer a more affordable set of wishbones, uprights, steering knuckles, and most fundamentally a separate shock tower/wishbone mounting assembly which I could ideally mount on a flat custom chassis plate... After a bit of noodling around looking at parts and build instructions online, it transpired that actually the 'lowly' Tamiya DT-02 chassis (RWD) buggies appeared to offer exactly what I needed - fundamentally a solid plastic shock tower which locates both the wishbones and the shocks, with a flat bottom that included a series of mounting holes - result! In addition, the main benefit in choosing Tamiya parts is their various plastic part trees tend to be very affordable, and in the case of the DT-02 and 03 models (being their entry-level racing buggy platforms), there are any number of upgrade/replacement parts available too - including Tamiya's own hop-up options such as adjustable turnbuckle links to replace the plastic upper wishbones, and also plenty of aftermarket aluminium versions of the various wishbones and uprights etc. I finally settled on a combination of Jazrider aluminium DT-02/03 front lower wishbones and uprights (in anodised black to match the rear straight axle and suspension links), and Tamiya's own 'Hop-Up' kit of turnbuckle upper links (so you can adjust the camber) and steering rods, together with a pair of Hornet steering knuckles, which have cranked arms rather than straight, so would clear the narrow offset wheels I planned to use. I apologise I didn't actually take any photos of this step of the build, but suffice to say it all went together easily and gave me a self contained IFS subframe which could be simply bolted to a flat chassis plate - which was the key to getting this whole caboodle together: photo. cardboard template used to mock up the proposed wheelbase and mounting locations to the existing Capra skid-plate, and the front Tamiya IFS tower assembly. Photo. front chassis/subframe cut from aluminium sheet - initially with a fine jigsaw blade before being hand finished with a bench grinder and files. I elected to cut the chassis from 2.5mm thick aluminium (rather than the more usual 2mm, which is much easier to work with and fold) - factoring in that since this vehicle was likely to be driven and higher speeds and potentially jumped from time to time, the relatively narrow portion of this chassis where the IFS tower mounts could do with being that much thicker - especially as it essentially doubles up as a skid plate too. photo. initial bends made with a bending brake tool for precision - handy if you like to work with thin sheet metal. I'd calculated as best I could the angles both the IFS tower would need to be mounted (to not only clear the Capra cage rails above, but also I noticed that the DT-03 buggies have their front suspension canted backwards presumably to increase the trail and improve stability), and also incorporated a front bash-plate section which would line up with the existing Capra cage/headlight panel above. Taking my time to bend just enough to get the initial angles spot on, I found that I needed to trim just 3mm off the top of the bash-plate portion and it mated up a treat! photo. this was the first and fortunately only chassis plate I had to cut to get this to go together! Ultimately once the front suspension tower camber angle was set, the bash-plate just had to be trimmed slightly to line up with the cage rail above. photo. The DT-02/03 front suspension bolts directly to the narrow portion of the alloy chassis, and the steering servo mounts directly behind on a wider section which in turn bolts to the Capra skid-plate. photo. bash-plate portion trimmed to fit - I might end up drilling a series of vent holes in the front, or maybe just fit a recovery hitch and/or some stickers! photo. the final chassis bends - note that I did have to cut out two short sections of the plastic cage so that the shock towers fitted up under the hood - otherwise, it really appeared to be made for this IFS conversion! photo. the complete front subframe-chassis, the rear portion is shaped to fit flush inside the aluminium skid-plate of the Capra body using the four screws which would normally mount the traditional Capra transmission, the result being the whole chassis is very rigid indeed. Currently I have tapped the 2.5mm thick aluminium chassis with M3 threads to bolt the two portions together, however I feel that ultimately it will be stronger to bolt all the way though with a nut on each screw - once I've decided on the final transmission layout. cont.
  10. cont. Tidy! So with those two major jobs completed, I thought I'd replace the damaged and missing bodywork items - both hood latches had gone (replaced with zip tie ends, which at a squint are a pretty good representation anyway), the crack in the left hand front fender was epoxyed from underneath, the wonky driver-side mirror re-attached and the missing passenger quarter window glass and D-shackles on the front bumper replaced (and all four shackle pins thread-locked). Rather than attempt to repaint the chips in Tamiya Italian Red (the original colour I'd used), I thought it would be fun to use some of my Modern Masters iron paint and activator to start some real rust in those places where the damage had occurred. photo. some real rust to add more authentic weathering - something which had been missing from the original build, not least since Simon's 1:1 Jeep lives in Nevada where there is very little chance of rust forming anyway, despite his full-size Jeep having had a hard life too. photo. Randal at the wheel... so often driver figures can look too small in scale builds, but I'd say this figure is pretty much perfect for this size body. photo. it's cozy in the cabin, but then it's pretty cozy in a full-size TJ of course! Note the driver and passenger windows actually slide up and down on their own [custom made] runners. Putting the boot in... on. And finally, the other thing I thought it would be nice to add were some boots for the scale shocks fitted to this build - and I chose the blue version since Simon has Bilsteins on his full-size Jeep. photo. power switch accessed inside the driver's wheel-arch. photo. despite the very short wheelbase and small 1.55 wheels and tyres, this build actually has a surprising amount of articulation - courtesy of 90mm travel shocks with 80mm springs inside, meaning the overall ride-height remains scale, just with plenty of droop travel as required. photo. It certainly is! Hope you like the latest updates, and I'm looking forward to getting this back to Simon and seeing it back on the trails soon! Jenny x
  11. cont. Back door The other major addition, or rather modification I wanted to incorporate was a quick access to the rear battery compartment - especially as now there was a driver figure in place it would be fiddly to get his hands repositioned on the steering wheel [which is attached to the dash/body] each time you removed the body shell to change/charge the battery. photo. the Loops RC Wrangler body is a truck-cab/pick-up style, and it was easy enough to cut out the middle portion between the wheel-arch boxes cleanly... photo. ...this meant there was now plenty of room to get the battery in and out from its location under the rear deck, without having to remove the main shell. photo. I then fabricated a flat cross member panel from 1.5mm styrene to fill in the gap... photo. ...together with this braced inner panel which fits inside the sides of the existing battery box, while the slot slides over the vertical rear cross-member, and stays snuggly in place. photo. closed - and visually just as before. photo. rear deck and tailgate panel is easily removed by using the spare tyre as a handle. photo. easy access to the battery for re-charging in situ or removal. cont.
  12. 2022 update: I thought you might all like to see how the little Red Dwarf has been getting along in the hands of its new owner (and his 13 year old daughter)... Ah, not as well as one might have hoped perhaps - although it was built to be driven of course! Other than the odd bolt coming loose (and the propensity for the rear diff crown and pinion to wear it's teeth, it's on it's third now), it's actually survived pretty well - although as I think I mentioned at the time and subsequently, if I'd had a little more time during the initial build and a period of time to actually shake it down during a test drive before handing it over, then I might have been a little more liberal with the blue thread-lock at the very least! However, the real issue/s had been some damage to the bodywork, plus there had always been a lack of driver figure (again something I'd not had the time to source during the initial build)... and I'd always wished I'd made the battery more easy to access too - rather than having to unscrew the body each time... So I picked it up from Simon recently, and set about revising and incorporating those elements, together with giving it a general service and sorting a couple of wiring issues too. Behind the wheel First of all, I probably ought to introduce you to the new driver - who I chose specifically because Simon has more than a passing resemblance to Randal, along with a similar attitude towards life! He is also a big fan of those movies too. photo. "Bunch of savages in this town..." Fortunately he fitted surprisingly well in the cabin I'd created, although he did have to lose his legs just below the knee due to the raised flat floor, and ultimately I had to cut and bend the sides of the drivers seat to get him to sit back in it properly too: The other thing which would need tweaking was the position of the main gear lever (so his right hand would hold it in a natural stance), plus the orignal steering wheel had gone missing during one of the countless roll-overs, so that needed replacing too: ...and ultimately I needed to fit a different steering wheel with a flat bottom anyway (to clear his knees/thighs) and also cut a small recess out of the bottom of the dash either side of the steering column - yep, it's cosy in there! photo. seat belts fitted without the need for lengthening, repositioned gear lever, and ultimately I had to carve a little of his left side away so his left arm was tucked in at the correct angle for his hand to hold the steering wheel. Fortunately because this [film] character is black and white, it was simple enough to touch in the paint where I'd had to cut and fill with epoxy the original figure - and while I did consider painting the driver in technicolour (skin tones, blue jeans and a red shirt for example), I kind of like that the driver is monochrome - even if he does look a bit like a zombie in this context! cont.
  13. If you mean it's yellowed in places, I don't think there is anything you can do about that - the chrome edition is not paint rather its a psudo-chrome plating, and I've seen that before on other components which have the same coating - where the silver element has faded slightly, typically through age. Call it patina, and embrace it! Jx
  14. Don't worry, the Element is also a great platform with a good number of aftermarket upgrade options too - this was more for anyone else reading and contemplating something similar... as I say, while I don't believe there is a UK distributor for Vanquish, it's certainly possible to get them to the UK, and the VS4-10 chassis, and particularly the new VFD Twin transmission is a work of art, while the whole platform is very strong, reliable and versatile. I have two vehicles built around these already, and wouldn't hesitate to build another if trail running and scale crawling was my goal. Jx
  15. fwiw. (and while I appreciate Vanquish Products are not as easy to get hold of in the UK as some other brands), but to save yourself a lot of grief and wishful thinking, if you want the 'best' 1/10 scale chassis as a self-assembly kit and then choose your own body, wheels & tyres, electronics etc. as you see fit, then just get the Vanquish VS4-10 chassis kit bundle which they are doing for $279.99 USD at the moment. It it beautifully engineered to the point it makes everything else look crap, and performs better than anything else other than a dedicated comp-crawler. https://www.vanquishproducts.com/vs4-10-builders-bundle-straight-axle/ 2 cents - so all you need now is 27,997 more cents to get one! Jenny x
  16. Hi Willy - yes, I can't imagine they are any different, being essentially the same chassis - and if its 43mm then that is pretty much a 1.7 as I surmised... interesting, thank you! Jx
  17. I know this is an older thread, but if anyone [still] has one of these, could you measure the diameter of the front wheel - is a 1.7? Many thanks in advance... Jenny x
  18. Personally I like it on the rear wings... maybe just remove the stripe across the bonnet, as that does look a bit fussy/busy perhaps? Jx
  19. Hi Bus' - if you're looking for something different, and fundamentally something to build - then I'd consider getting the main Capra cage/chassis set (they are $30, plus you need the skid plate section for another $12 - although depending on the transmission you intend to use, there are aftermarket/aluminium options too), and then build it up with pretty much any axles/links/shocks and transmission you fancy? This is what I did (using RC4WD K44 narrow axles and 1.9 wheels/tyres), and there is more info in my Capra-Cornholio thread in the builds section... I'd say it's an excellent and affordable platform - although how much extra you end up spending can vary considerably of course - you can even make a 4WS version should you wish... for info. I've got a standard Axial 3-gear transmission in this with a 13T 5-slot motor, and with a 2S lipo battery it's a rocket when you want it to be - but still crawls too! Something to consider? Jenny x
  20. Ha ha - awesome! I wonder if they'd been trawling back through this forum (as far back as 2014), as I recall a similar conversation in this thread here: Looks like someone actually went ahead and did it! For anyone wondering, this the scene I was thinking about, from the James Bond movie Licence to Kill: The question is though - will it wheelie?! Jenny x
  21. Aha, probably the perfect thread to revisit these two beauties from @sonicdeath https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125575&id=10614 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125431&id=10614 Jx
  22. A little update, as I got the chance to meet up with Simon again recently and take the Jeeps out for a run in one of my favourite 1:1 4x4 trails near Las Vegas... The little mini-me is still doing sterling service in the hands of it's new owner, although is starting to bear a few scars (and we noticed missing it's hood latches too now - one is missing in the photo above, and by the time we got home, the other had gone ping somewhere too), and again it seemed to suffer a stripped ring and pinyon gear in the rear axle by the time we'd finished running for the day... photo. what is it with TJ Jeeps that they require constant maintenance it seems?! This has happened twice now, and while I know that RC4WDs cast axles don't have a particularly good reputation for being especially strong in actual 'crawling' conditions, it is a little disappointing - especially as I have these K44 axles on two of my other models (including my Capra) which has not suffered in the same way. The first time I put it down to a hurried build and not shimming the axles during the initial assembly... while this time it could have been due to replacing the OEM parts with some cheaper 'Chinese' Yota II internals I had spare, to get him going again. Fortunately Simon had subsequently ordered a genuine replacement ring and pinyon set from RC4WD a while ago, so those were now duly installed, together with shimming them both within a [millionth of] an inch of their lives - so I trust we'll have finally sorted that issue for the future now... Jenny x
  23. Very nice! As a thought, if you did want to utilise that Sand Scorcher rear exhaust (and perhaps one of Toykid's scale engine covers too), you could go a little custom and chop the rear end like Sayroll did with this awesome Bel-Ray Bullet replica using that body? https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122033&id=22164 Looking forward to seeing what you do! Jenny x ps. While you're at it, I'd also use the Sand Scorcher driver head with the open face helmet too - I think that would look even more period correct.
  24. As sosidge suggests, get a servo-reversing Y cable - you can find them on ebay, usually sold as being suitable for aeroplane flaps for example (ie. one goes up when the other goes down). They typically have a small PCD in heat-shrink, with three cables - a male plug for the receiver, and two female plugs to connect each of your servos to. Jx
  25. Hi Admin - I recall this was an issue a while ago when the forum was revamped - that certain older posts couldn't be edited (and also if longer posts were edited, they were then too large to re-save in their original size?), but I've noticed a similar message has popped up a couple of times now on more recent threads - including almost immediately after I'd posted it, and went back to edit a spelling mistake for example: Does this have something to do with if there has been a subsequent reply, or even a 'like' etc? or is it just a glitch? - either way, I do like to go back and correct any spelling or grammatical mistakes which I didn't notice at the time... got to keep the written word standards up you know! Hope you can help/advise... Jenny ps. the particular post in question was the latest update to my TJ Hooker build thread, but I recall there was another recently too.
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