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namfreak

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Everything posted by namfreak

  1. On the good advice given on this forum, I decided to "Hop up" to the Tamiya CVA Super Mini Shock 50746 set for my Wild Willy 2. The damper oil include in the kit is clear, so I'm guessing it's 900 grade "hard". I used the stock yellow damper oil (400 grade? - soft?) in the rear shocks of my Hornet re-re. Assuming I'm going to be using the WW2 "off road" on grass, dirt and sand, what oil grade (soft / hard) do you think would be suited to the WW2 chassis and the CVA shocks?
  2. Crikey! I see what you mean! The Wild Willy 2 from Fusion Hobbies was down from 105 to 100 just before Xmas - bit less with the Tamiya Club members discount. Now it's up to 130! Glad I got THAT kit when i did!
  3. Thanks for the offer on the "Vario" Jozza, but like you say - if acrylics need to be gravity fed they might not be the way to go. I did notice Revell also do a "top and bottom feed" brush - same as the Vario but they call it the "Flexible": http://www.revell.de/en/products/model_kit...=39109&sp=1 I really would like to use the Tamiya acrylic paints on a Wild Willy 2 I'm commencing shortly, but after that I'd like to use it on other plastic model kits, where I'm going to be attempting a bit of pre-shading / weathering. As for what paints I'll use for the plastic models I'm not sure yet, but would like to be able to draw from my stock of Tamiya acrylics
  4. Thanks for such a detailed reply. Yes I see revell do a cheap one and then you go up the scale. I was considering the Revell's as they seem to have a wide range and I'm guessing they're German made? I think they actually sell a couple of their own brand compressors. I'll keep my eye out for the "Vario" one I never buy the cheapest of anything - I'd always prefer to get a mid to high range item that will fulfill my needs. I'd be using acrylic paints and from using Tamiya paints I find them a bit thick so i would have to thin them down for airbrush use... Like you say....practice the technique beforehand!!
  5. So are the Revell airbrushes not that good?
  6. Yeah I noticed they were currently unavailable in the UK too - due to a "labelling issue". I think they will be available again in March. In the meantime, I've spotted the TS paints on ebay US. Saying that the odd can comes up for sale on ebay UK, but at inflated prices.
  7. If anyone here collects the old Tamiya catalogues, I'm after an image that I saw in a catalogue from either the late 80's or early 90's (up to 1993) It wasn't in the R/C section - it was an image of a diorama in the plastic model kit section. The diorama was in 1/35 scale of a Huey Helicopter in a sandbagged bunker. (Vietnam war scene) I beleive the image was showcasing the Tamiya 1/35 scale figures and diorama accessories - I know that 1/35 Huey's were made buy other manufacturers. If anyone can email me a photo / scan of this picture it would be much appreciated! I'm trying to get some inspiration for a diorama featuring a Huey helicopter and this vague memory sprang to mind - I could do with it being refreshed! Please email me at richardsonj74@hotmail.com if you can help. Many Thanks
  8. So without me knowing what a single action / dual action airbrush is, are you saying that the ones that operates from a can of compressed air are OK?
  9. I'm in a similar position - except I always veer toward a "mid range" product if I know little about them! I've seen there are Airbrushes that work from a can of compressed air. Are these not worth the metal they're made from or are they any good? I'd want a good all rounder - an airbrush that can do body shells as well as detailed work. Any recommendations anyone?
  10. Thanks for the clarification and guidance guys. I'll probably go with the CVA mini shock set, 50746 and choose a soft oil for off road...
  11. Thanks Adam, However you mentioned oil damped shocks - I agree they would be nicer! However 53280 - the TA03 Low Friction damper set does not appear (in the kit pictures) to use oil. Kit 50746 CVA Super Mini Shock set has oil included in the kit, but no springs Kit 53155 Low Friction Aluminium damper, again does not appear to use oil. Which kit should I be looking at?
  12. Hi all, Can anyone recommend any of the hop ups for the Wild Willy 2? I've got myself a set of shielded metal bearings - that's a must! Been reading the instructions and there's several suspension options. One of which is the TA03 Super low Friction damper set. I'm not a mad competition hobbyist - just someone that likes to build the kits to a nice standard, run 'em a bit when i get chance and display 'em too. Are any of these hop ups worth the price tag? I do like to make a good durable model, or are the "stock" suspension parts perfectly good enough?
  13. Just treated myself to Wild Willy 2 from Fusion. I really enjoyed building the Hornet re-re, and to display it with the box is bringing all the 80's memories back! Memories of what I couldn't have! Looking forward to building the WW2 and displaying it similarly. Am interested in anyone's thoughts on the Boomerang re-re. What was the Boomerang like as a buggy in the 880's? Was it any good? I'm guessing it's a bit more of an interesting build with being 4WD.... I'm a newbie to Tamiya RC, so i'm not mad into racing or competition - I just like building the kits - running them on grass / beach when I can and displaying them on the top of my collection of 1980's arcade games. Any recollections of the Boomerang appreciated.........
  14. Apologies if this is blindingly obvious to most of you but..: What's the difference between a 40mhz transmitter and a 27mhz transmitter? I can see a minor difference in price. Does the 40mhz cover longer ranges?
  15. Fantastic! Thanks terry.sc - that tells me about all I need to know. Would be interested in anybody else's experiences / methods also!
  16. I've been scanning this site for some detail on how other modellers get a nice flesh tone to the face of the driver figure on some Tamiya RC models. I've read CASE1's tutorial on "How to paint a driver's head" but I'd love to know a bit more on how other modellers get a realistic look to the face of the driver. I've got Tamiya XF15 Flat Flesh paint, but I know there's got to be maybe 2 or 3 other colours to apply to get a nice "shaded" flesh colour. Perhaps the techniques are washes and / or drybrushing? In the abscence of any tutorial, I'd love to know how other guys get their results. I intend to practice on my "Hornet" driver, before progressing to a "Wild Willy" figure - one that really benefits from nice detailing! Thanks in advance....!
  17. Thanks guys, you've got me persuaded! That's all I wanted to do is drift a little on the sand and create some of those "rooster tails"! A wash down makes sense. Thnaks for the boost of confidence!
  18. Thanks Kev, you're telling me things I want to hear! Great advice about the "glossy" roll bars too, if painted from inside. Makes sense. Nice pic of your Hornet BTW!
  19. I'm in Wolverhampton, right on the border with Shropshire. Would be up for meeting up for some 1/10 Off Road
  20. I think the right decision for me (as you so correctly put it!) would be to get the roll bars painted, but to a durable standard. A completely black shell looks a bit too plain for me - the silver breaks it up a bit and gives a bit of much needed detail. The model is going to be displayed as much as it is used, so I'd like it to look nice. Thanks for the advice on WW2, yep I realise the chassis is differentto the 1980's one. Looks like this kit has been "dumbed down" from the original 80's one too - from what I can make out comparing the manuals.
  21. Does anyone here run their RC on a beach regularly? When buying my RC buggy from the model shop, I mentioned that I'd love to run it on the beach were my parents live. The model shop owner advised me not to, stating how the salt would attack the metal parts and start the dreaded rust! The metal screws etc seem pretty good quality to me on a Tamiya kit, although I do see his point. Are there any risks with running RC's on beaches and is there any preventative maintenance that can be done i.e washing afterwards?
  22. Okay I've built the chassis (and really enjoyed doing so!) next up is the body. I've got all the correct PolyCarbonate paints, PS5 and PC12 My question is about the roll bars - the reissue kit supplies stickers so you don't have to paint them (I think that's so lame - they've dumbed the kit down!) The old 1980's manual shows painting the roll bars from the OUTSIDE after painting the body colour from the inside - that's if I'm understanding it right! They would be real difficult to mask and paint from the inside, so it makes sense to do it from the outside - has anyone else done this though? If I roll the model in use, will the Polycarbonate silver paint not scratch off? Interested in anyones thoughts, either if you built an original 80's Hornet or the re-issue.
  23. I've only ordered some Tamiya tools from HK as yet. Weren't available in UK, so got them from an HK based ebay seller. Been waiting 2 weeks so far, so i'm hoping they turn up this week! Just had a look at Stella Models website - are there substantial savings to be had by purchasing relatively high value items (i.e kits). Will it work out cheaper, after shipping is paid for, than buying the same kit here in the UK?
  24. Nice photos guys! Love the ones c/w box - it brings back memories of Christmas 1987 or whenever it was! Was just about to ask if anyone had one in white (since that was the colour I had) until I saw your old photos! Great! I bet you were as pleased as punch that day! I too pretty much wore mine into the ground - then my older brother took the wreckage and made an R/C battleship with it! Of course it was the Tamiya models that were the real "desirable" back then, but my folks couldn't afford it. Luckily I can now, and have just built the chassis to a reissue Hornet! Looking back, I'm glad I had the Wild Panther - I don't think I could have coped with building a kit form Tamiya buggy back then - a kid on Christmas morning is too impatient! Least I can take my time and make a nice job of the Hornet now! Thanks for posting up the pics of the Wild Panther - they were good little (budget) cars at the time!
  25. There seems to be a bewildering range of Tamiya modelling puttys out there for the uninitiated, like me! I've seen Quick Dry, Basic Gray, Polyester and Epoxy. I'm just looking for a Tamiya putty I can use to fill and smooth out the edges between elements that are joined, i.e drivers head on 1/10 scale. I don't know what plastic is used in the kit for the drivers head / driving lights on Hornet, so was hoping some of you guys could recommend which putty to order? Many Thanks
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