Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Gripper

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/23/1981

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Hello guys Thank you for your replies. Ah Yes! - gearing - i will look into this... And sounds like 8.4v is fine to use. Thank you
  2. Hello I now have a 8.4volt nimh battery pack, and I want to use it with a Tamiya BZ 23t brushed motor. (I have a 12t limit ESC, which can handle 9.6volts, so this should be ok). But, just want to know if the BZ motor is ok to run off a 8.4volt battery??. I an using this set up in a pretty much stock TT01, with full ball bearings, and metal prop shaft. On Carpet indoors. I have given it a go already, and it certainly shifts. But the motor did get very hot after only a short period of time (less than 5mins perhaps). I don't wanna melt anything! - is this set up ok? Kind regards Ross
  3. ...hmm, now you mention it, perhaps I'm getting confused, and I was receiving comments on my showroom entry's (i think your right TWINSET).
  4. Hi Smiffffy Looking at the pictures you attached, what I can say is that the near 45 degree angle of the axel is what you should have (on both a Monster beetle using yellow shocks, or a Blackfoot using black shocks, whether they are using the dogbone hop ups, or the original hex type axels). This is how it should be. I can only assume that the reason the rear axels are running almost straight on your MB with the yellow 70mm centre shocks, is due to the odd shortness of these shocks you have (unfortunately I don't have mine to hand to measure at the moment, but i'm certain that the yellow & black shocks should measure the same length, probably @ 80mm, I will measure mine and come back to you on this). Like I say, I have a Blackfoot using the black shocks, and my axels are just like your picture (their near 45 degree) and I also am using the dogbone hop us (bought of ebay, in the blue transmission bag). I have run this Blackfoot quite a few times, and I have not had any trouble with the dogbones popping out, I have not had to use any shimes or rubber grommets). Regarding the grommets... (I think you should've got some of these included in the blue transmission bag right?) Try popping one, in each cup, of the drive axels (which come out of the gearbox). And also, pop one, in each cup, of the long axels (which connect to the rear wheels). This will hopefully reduce the amount of 'play' in which the dogbone has to rattle about in, from BOTH sides. If one grommet is not enough, try adding another. Kind regards
  5. Hello I have tried clicking on the "Follow this topic" buttom (at the top of this page) but it does not add me. But i have set the Notification Option to "Auto follow all topics i post in" so hopefully this will work for the furum side of things. Not sure about the main site, when i have posted comments on other peoples walls, and I have used the comments history to see that they have replied, i haven't received an email telling me that they have replied. Just one of those things i guess.. Thanks for the help tho guys
  6. Hello When I first signed up (maybe 3-4 years ago) when I posted a comment in the main site, or in the forum, i was sent a notification email to my hotmail email address. But, for a while now, i have not been recieving these emails when i post comments. Is their a section where i can re-set this setting on TC somewhere? I have not been able to find it. Kind regards
  7. Hi I think I can visualise what you are saying Smiffffy. I have upgraded my Original Blackfoot with the ReRe Frog dogbone axels, and I must say, I have had no problems with it (no dogbones popping out etc..). So not exactly sure as to why you are experiencing this. What (I believe) you are saying, is that the longer 80mm Black shocks are allowing the rear trailing arm to travel further down, and thus, further away from, the gearbox - which in turn is creating a large enough gap for the dogbone to be able to 'pop out' of its sandwiching axels. (In theory, it should'nt matter which shock is used, as the trailing arms maximum travel should still be the same, but perhaps because the yellow shocks are oil filled, and not so strongly sprung, the weight of the car, especially when carrying a battery, makes the ride height lower, hence why you say the rear end ride height looks lower, and the angle of the dogbones less steep). Like I say, I have not had trouble with this myself, but I am sure I have read elsewhere some time ago (on the TC forums) of people complaining of losing their dogbones as they have popped out mid run. (Can anyone else confirm this?). I believe one suggested fix was to use shims to reduce the gap between the sandwiching axels. I have not had to try this, but, if this is whats happening, would using a washer on the inside of the main axel (where the inside ball bearing is located, inside the black rear trailing arm) work?. This would have the effect of slightly reducing the gap between the sandwiching axels, and hopefully, just enough to stop the dogbone being able to pop out?. (There may be better ways of doing this also) Anyway, hope this helps Kind regards
  8. Wheels.pdfWheels.pdf Hello I want to put 96mm diameter Pajero tyres, with the Pajero rims, onto a Tamiya Brat. I believe the rims use 12mm hexes. Does anyone know if they can be used on a Tamiya Brat? If so, What adapters/parts might I need to use? Any advise welcome Kind regards
  9. Hello I bought 4no. SSK rims & tyres, hoping to put them on my original Tamiya Blackfoot. I knew they utilised 12mm hexes, and I have the Tamiya hex adaptors for the rears - so these fit on the rear axels fine. The problem i have now discovered, is that the front axels on the BF are thicker than the holes in the SSK rims, so the rim will not go any further than the threaded section of the axel. Also, even if the rim did pass along the axel, the length of the axel would be too long. (Now I know why I have never saw anyone on T.C. use these rims on a BF before! ) ...Or have they? Has anyone managed to fit these on an original BF? Or has anyone any ideas how? - i was wondering if I can switch out the original front axels for shorter ones from another Tamiya model perhaps?. Is there such a part out there? Any help or ideas appreciated Kind regards
  10. Hi Its Ross here, I came to the last Brean Bash. I've just joined the Cider Bashers SIG, and Alex just told me about Brean Bash 2. I'm going to be in Bath this weekend with my girlfriend, and I don't think i'll be back to be able to make it on the 1st. But if things change, i'll try to make it down to Brean. Hopefully, i'll definately be able to make the next one tho!. Regards
  11. I'm looking forwards to checking out your brushless MB, and other peoples Brushless cars, as I've never seen a Brushless R/C car in the flesh, only online. I've been toying with the idea of getting one of those EZRun all-in-one combo set ups for a while for my MB. Perhaps the sight of my MB trailing behind everyone elses cars, covered in flicked up sand from your tyres, will help persuade me
  12. Hi My main two cars are prepped, and ready to roll. Only have the AA batteries, and stick packs to worry about charging (will need to start this process soon! I only have one slow charger). Have recently bought a new car off eBay, and hopeing to fix it into some sort of shape for 20th (at moment it needs a bit of work to say the least) but here's hopeing. I will try to bring along a spade (or two if possible) to facilitate the track building. I've only been to this area once, that was in march 23rd ish last year, and this was nearer easter vacation time. Everything was open then, and beach was good. However, as mentioned previously, out of season it might well be different... Best take a packed lunch! Looking forwards to it. Regards, Ross
  13. Hello Karooha MB, & hello everyone else. "The Birthday Bash", I like it!. Looks like there's some more people coming, thats great stuff!. Funny enough, I stayed in the holiday park (Unity Farm) right opposite the entrance to the beach road last year in March. (That beach road is fine for vehicles btw, as you've already seen on Google I see. Access to the beach was open for cars in March last year, guessing should be open too on 20th Feb, but i'm not sure). I ran my Brat/Scorcher there, so i'm hoping my local course knowledge will be useful, come the race . If anyone requires it, the post code for Unity Farm is TA8 2RB. That should get you right there on a sat nav, i'm hopeing. Will try to commandeer one of my nieces bucket & spades, to help build a rough track & obsticles to bash on. Dips and bumps and turns etc.. Look forwards to meeting up with you lot. Ross
  14. Hi 94eg! I figured the Reciever/Battery set up was going to be o.k. (but its always nice having things confirmed before outlaying £50-60 quid!..so thanks once again) Will still try to look into lathing the comm. somewhere, as you suggested, as I reckon that it would be benificial to do this (& kind of a shame not to really, as its a rebuildable, quality motor etc..), but if not, I reckon it won't be too bad just sticking new brushes in her and seeing how she fares. And as you say, can always go brushless. Kind regards, Ross (Gripper)
  15. Thank you Champs85 & 94eg! Thanks to your posts, I now know which type of brushes will work/be compatible with my BZ motor, (plus some of the smaller details/intracacies which will no doubt have saved me alot of head scratching!). Kind regards, Ross (Gripper)
  • Create New...