Gripper

Hello guys Thank you for your replies. Ah Yes! - gearing - i will look into this... And sounds like 8.4v is fine to use. Thank you

Hello I now have a 8.4volt nimh battery pack, and I want to use it with a Tamiya BZ 23t brushed motor. (I have a 12t limit ESC, which can handle 9.6volts, so this should be ok). But, just want to know if the BZ motor is ok to run off a 8.4volt battery??. I an using this set up in a pretty much stock TT01, with full ball bearings, and metal prop shaft. On Carpet indoors. I have given it a go already, and it certainly shifts. But the motor did get very hot after only a short period of time (less than 5mins perhaps). I don't wanna melt anything! - is this set up ok? Kind regards Ross

...hmm, now you mention it, perhaps I'm getting confused, and I was receiving comments on my showroom entry's (i think your right TWINSET).

Hi Smiffffy Looking at the pictures you attached, what I can say is that the near 45 degree angle of the axel is what you should have (on both a Monster beetle using yellow shocks, or a Blackfoot using black shocks, whether they are using the dogbone hop ups, or the original hex type axels). This is how it should be. I can only assume that the reason the rear axels are running almost straight on your MB with the yellow 70mm centre shocks, is due to the odd shortness of these shocks you have (unfortunately I don't have mine to hand to measure at the moment, but i'm certain that the yellow & black shocks should measure the same length, probably @ 80mm, I will measure mine and come back to you on this). Like I say, I have a Blackfoot using the black shocks, and my axels are just like your picture (their near 45 degree) and I also am using the dogbone hop us (bought of ebay, in the blue transmission bag). I have run this Blackfoot quite a few times, and I have not had any trouble with the dogbones popping out, I have not had to use any shimes or rubber grommets). Regarding the grommets... (I think you should've got some of these included in the blue transmission bag right?) Try popping one, in each cup, of the drive axels (which come out of the gearbox). And also, pop one, in each cup, of the long axels (which connect to the rear wheels). This will hopefully reduce the amount of 'play' in which the dogbone has to rattle about in, from BOTH sides. If one grommet is not enough, try adding another. Kind regards

Hello I have tried clicking on the "Follow this topic" buttom (at the top of this page) but it does not add me. But i have set the Notification Option to "Auto follow all topics i post in" so hopefully this will work for the furum side of things. Not sure about the main site, when i have posted comments on other peoples walls, and I have used the comments history to see that they have replied, i haven't received an email telling me that they have replied. Just one of those things i guess.. Thanks for the help tho guys

Hello When I first signed up (maybe 3-4 years ago) when I posted a comment in the main site, or in the forum, i was sent a notification email to my hotmail email address. But, for a while now, i have not been recieving these emails when i post comments. Is their a section where i can re-set this setting on TC somewhere? I have not been able to find it. Kind regards

Hi I think I can visualise what you are saying Smiffffy. I have upgraded my Original Blackfoot with the ReRe Frog dogbone axels, and I must say, I have had no problems with it (no dogbones popping out etc..). So not exactly sure as to why you are experiencing this. What (I believe) you are saying, is that the longer 80mm Black shocks are allowing the rear trailing arm to travel further down, and thus, further away from, the gearbox - which in turn is creating a large enough gap for the dogbone to be able to 'pop out' of its sandwiching axels. (In theory, it should'nt matter which shock is used, as the trailing arms maximum travel should still be the same, but perhaps because the yellow shocks are oil filled, and not so strongly sprung, the weight of the car, especially when carrying a battery, makes the ride height lower, hence why you say the rear end ride height looks lower, and the angle of the dogbones less steep). Like I say, I have not had trouble with this myself, but I am sure I have read elsewhere some time ago (on the TC forums) of people complaining of losing their dogbones as they have popped out mid run. (Can anyone else confirm this?). I believe one suggested fix was to use shims to reduce the gap between the sandwiching axels. I have not had to try this, but, if this is whats happening, would using a washer on the inside of the main axel (where the inside ball bearing is located, inside the black rear trailing arm) work?. This would have the effect of slightly reducing the gap between the sandwiching axels, and hopefully, just enough to stop the dogbone being able to pop out?. (There may be better ways of doing this also) Anyway, hope this helps Kind regards

Wheels.pdfWheels.pdf Hello I want to put 96mm diameter Pajero tyres, with the Pajero rims, onto a Tamiya Brat. I believe the rims use 12mm hexes. Does anyone know if they can be used on a Tamiya Brat? If so, What adapters/parts might I need to use? Any advise welcome Kind regards

Hello I bought 4no. SSK rims & tyres, hoping to put them on my original Tamiya Blackfoot. I knew they utilised 12mm hexes, and I have the Tamiya hex adaptors for the rears - so these fit on the rear axels fine. The problem i have now discovered, is that the front axels on the BF are thicker than the holes in the SSK rims, so the rim will not go any further than the threaded section of the axel. Also, even if the rim did pass along the axel, the length of the axel would be too long. (Now I know why I have never saw anyone on T.C. use these rims on a BF before! ) ...Or have they? Has anyone managed to fit these on an original BF? Or has anyone any ideas how? - i was wondering if I can switch out the original front axels for shorter ones from another Tamiya model perhaps?. Is there such a part out there? Any help or ideas appreciated Kind regards

Hi Its Ross here, I came to the last Brean Bash. I've just joined the Cider Bashers SIG, and Alex just told me about Brean Bash 2. I'm going to be in Bath this weekend with my girlfriend, and I don't think i'll be back to be able to make it on the 1st. But if things change, i'll try to make it down to Brean. Hopefully, i'll definately be able to make the next one tho!. Regards

I'm looking forwards to checking out your brushless MB, and other peoples Brushless cars, as I've never seen a Brushless R/C car in the flesh, only online. I've been toying with the idea of getting one of those EZRun all-in-one combo set ups for a while for my MB. Perhaps the sight of my MB trailing behind everyone elses cars, covered in flicked up sand from your tyres, will help persuade me

Hi My main two cars are prepped, and ready to roll. Only have the AA batteries, and stick packs to worry about charging (will need to start this process soon! I only have one slow charger). Have recently bought a new car off eBay, and hopeing to fix it into some sort of shape for 20th (at moment it needs a bit of work to say the least) but here's hopeing. I will try to bring along a spade (or two if possible) to facilitate the track building. I've only been to this area once, that was in march 23rd ish last year, and this was nearer easter vacation time. Everything was open then, and beach was good. However, as mentioned previously, out of season it might well be different... Best take a packed lunch! Looking forwards to it. Regards, Ross

Hello Karooha MB, & hello everyone else. "The Birthday Bash", I like it!. Looks like there's some more people coming, thats great stuff!. Funny enough, I stayed in the holiday park (Unity Farm) right opposite the entrance to the beach road last year in March. (That beach road is fine for vehicles btw, as you've already seen on Google I see. Access to the beach was open for cars in March last year, guessing should be open too on 20th Feb, but i'm not sure). I ran my Brat/Scorcher there, so i'm hoping my local course knowledge will be useful, come the race . If anyone requires it, the post code for Unity Farm is TA8 2RB. That should get you right there on a sat nav, i'm hopeing. Will try to commandeer one of my nieces bucket & spades, to help build a rough track & obsticles to bash on. Dips and bumps and turns etc.. Look forwards to meeting up with you lot. Ross

Hi 94eg! I figured the Reciever/Battery set up was going to be o.k. (but its always nice having things confirmed before outlaying £50-60 quid!..so thanks once again) Will still try to look into lathing the comm. somewhere, as you suggested, as I reckon that it would be benificial to do this (& kind of a shame not to really, as its a rebuildable, quality motor etc..), but if not, I reckon it won't be too bad just sticking new brushes in her and seeing how she fares. And as you say, can always go brushless. Kind regards, Ross (Gripper)

Thank you Champs85 & 94eg! Thanks to your posts, I now know which type of brushes will work/be compatible with my BZ motor, (plus some of the smaller details/intracacies which will no doubt have saved me alot of head scratching!). Kind regards, Ross (Gripper)

Hello 94eg! Thanks again for the info. As you have also seen elsewhere regarding my BZ motor brushes question recently, I have been finding out quite a bit about the finer points of electronics & motors & gearing etc. I was toying with the idea of brushless ever since I discovered the 'all in one' EZrun package you can get on ebay. I bought my BZ motor some time before seeing this, and had/have not much knowledge of brushless either anyway;). I knew that the BZ motor would need its brushes changed, as these would wear, every so often. But wasn't aware that servicing them would require lathing the comm. true 'every'time the brushes are replaced. (I will look into asking my at my LHS to see if they are able to do this though). As I don't run my car frequently,or for long periods, I figured I could just replace the brushes on it, maybe clean it every so often....rookie newbie style:) As for the EZrun package, I have a few questions you may be able to help me with on this subject? Do these work with the standard Acoms 27mhz AM BEC recievers? Will I need to upgrade my 3800Mah NiMH 7.2v Battery at all? (as in Mah, not volts, coz I know the ones on ebay are set for 7.2v out the box) Is there anything else which you think may be of use to me to know about these? I'm sure i've seen one fitted to a Frog gearbox here on T.C. somewhere, so should fit, and the dimentions on ebay all match up to a standard silvercan's (eg fixing holes). Kind regards, Ross (Gripper)

Hello The brushes for my Tamiya BZ motor are beginning to wear down from use. As it is the first time I have had to replace them I was wondering if I could pretty much use any type/make of brush sets I have seen on Ebay? Are brushes basically generic? and will work on any type of rebuildable motor? Or do/should I need to get a specific type to use? if so, does anybody know?, or can someone recommend one to me? Any help much appreciated.

Hello 94eg Thank you for the reply. After searching around on this forum some more, and reading your reply, I think I have a slightly better understanding of it all now.Thanks! As i'm looking to run my 2WD Frog on grass,dirt,inclines etc, I need/want a bit of grunt in the motor, as well as extra speed, so I reckon that using 12x1, 12x2 or 13x2 would be a no no, as its gonna push the 12 turn limit ESC, and not have the grunt. At the moment I'm using the 16tooth pinion gear set up, which produces a 8.5:1 ratio, which my Tamiya BZ motor and 12limit LRP ELC handles well. The BZ is a 23turn motor, (not sure of the wind?), and I believe that because its a more 'tuned' or 'modified' 'high grade' of motor it is better than stock motors of similar turns?. (I say this because other stock motors of 23turns get nowhere near the 26,500RPM which this is said to produce. Even a Peak Racing Raven motor, which is a 17x2 only does 26,104 for example). So quality of motor is also something to consider? Basically, as I now have a 12 turn limit motor, I was looking to find a motor which could give me a bit more top speed (i.e lower turn than 23) but retain (or even increase the grunt) of the BZ motor. Have been doing some research on this, and was concidering a motor called Trinity Speed Gem, its a 16x2, top quality motor. But not sure of its suitablility for off road application, i.e grunt. In theory a 16x1 would give more grunt, but probs have high power drain/run hotter. (P.S: I also run full Ball Bearings, and smooth/clean drivetrain) No easy answers I guess, but fun all the same finding out:) Kind regards, Ross (Gripper)

Hi Guys Thanks for replies. Have seen those sledgehammer wheels on T.C. also, but alas... cant find any anywhere. Thanks for showing me the other adapter, this is useful. (thanks for the heads up on linking to live ebay sites, sorry mods!!)

just to add... I have an Mtronic ESC, and yes, the range on it seems terribly short! (thought it was just mine which acted like this)

Hi I have an IPC Super Sport ESC (made by LRP) which has a limit of 12t according to the instructions. I was thinking of buying a motor in the region of 12x2, 12x3, or 13x3. (As I understand it, the added x2 or x3 adds some extra power/torque to the fast, but not many winds (12) of the armature inside the motor) I have two questions really... 1. Will the fact that running a 12x1 motor on an 12t limit ESC effect the performance of the motor, or ESC?. (is this o.k/wise, could it compromise performance because its only just capable of working etc.. and therefore unlikely to get 100% out of motor?). and... 2. Will the double(x2) or Triple(x3) element have an effect on the capability of the 12t limit ESC to run them also? does the extra power of these motors mean that extra effort is needed by the ESC, which takes it over the 12t limit?) Any help appreciated Regards

Hello Please can someone help me by telling me if the chrome front rims of the King blackfoot will go straight onto the front axles of the Original Blackfoot (without adapters etc..)? And please can someone confirm that using these rear wheel hex adapters (as seen at this E-bay link below) on my original Blackfoot's rear axles will allow me to fit the King Blackfoot rear chrome rims? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tamiya-53913-Frog-20...=item1e5e7768ef Does this not only work, but also does it keep the distance that the rims will 'stick out' or 'offset' from the chassis (pretty much) the same as on my Original BF? I am using the dogbone hop up on the original blackfoot rear axles, so would using the MA13 wheel axles be posible?. To make matters more complicated, I am using custom made aluminium rear trailing arms by .50 caliber, which I believe are designed to give/be the same dimentions as the original black plastic trailing arms, so this shouldn't be a problem hopefully. However, this method is probably the more complicated way of going about doing this though right?. Basically, I just want some nice chrome rims on my Original Blackfoot Any help, advice or ideas more than welcome Regards, Gripper

Ahh yes, this would make sense! I shall wait for the comp to close and check it out. cheers mate!

Hello I have just paid to become a subscribing member to TC. I know you have to become a subscriber to enter the competition, but how exactly do you cast your vote on the picture you think is the best?. Have you got to enter the competition yourself before you can get to cast a vote? Can you vote without entering? Maybe I am missing something obvious here? :/ Any help with this welcome Regards

Thanks for the help guys. Nice one.