retroman
-
Posts
262 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by retroman
-
-
LOL!!!
Not much chance of this getting "Clumbered". I reserve that past time to SRB's, and Frogs...
-
With the X-Ray shocks, It is possible to squeeze an extra "O" ring into the bottom of the shock, where the shock shaft passes through. You will need very strong hands to get the lower shock cap back on, but I managed it with my FK04, and it did stop them leaking. It's the only complaint I have with the X-Ray cars, as the quality, and durability is sublime. Why oh why they still make leaky shocks five years on is beyond me........ Lots of racers I used to know used to fit Tamiya TRF dampers in their place. The alloy upgrade damper cylinders for the X-Ray can be a good upgrade as well, as I have known the piston to go tight, when it passes past where the ride height adjuster collar is on the outside, with the plastic shock bodies. Again, why do they supply plastic shockers on such high end kits??
Don't get me wrong, if I was to buy another tourer, it would probably be an X-Ray -
No, I don't tend to use primer on Styrene bodies, as the paint self etches into the plastic. I think some of the problem was that when I painted the body, it was only about 3 degrees C outside, and had the body parts hanging from the rafters in my garage, above an electric radiator. I think that some of the problem may have come from the paint staying wet for longer, and allowing it to eat further into the plastic, causing the patches. I've been using Halfords aerosols, which always give a good result. I didn't have the same problem when I done my Brat body, but I did that one in the summer, so the paint flashed off much quicker.
I'm definately going to do it again, as I'm pretty fussy about the paint finish on my models. The problem is, with the body not being ready yet, I can't go any further with my build!
-
Totally agree about quality of cells..... You really do get what you pay for. I recently bought some cheap NiCad packs at around 10GBP per pack.......... I might as well have pulled 20 quid out my pocket, and set fire to it
Utter rubbish. When put on my Pro-Trak, they would only discharge for 20 seconds when fully charged!! I now will not buy battery packs unless I know what cells are in them.I think the Tamiya stick packs have Sanyo cells in them?? For me, it's either Tamiya stick packs, or GP cells, all the way. IMHO, they work out far better value for money in the long run.
My King Blackfoot has been pulling some serious wheelies tonight, with a stock silver can in it. The cells? Tamiya RC1400SP NiCads. I very much doubt it would be doing that with either of those two el-cheapo packs in it.....
-
I've used Deans as motor connectors before. If you are worried about mixing up battery, and motor connectors, I used to put the male plug on the motor, and the female on the speedo. That way if they part while running, there aren't any exposed terminals to short out. Also with having the male Deans on the speedo connector to the battery, you can't get them mixed up.
Hope this makes sense, and helps
-
Yeah, the cold weather does kill NiMH packs, as they give their best performance when they are slightly hot. That's the thing with NiMH, stuck between a rock, and a hard place- Don't get them too hot, or the life of them will be shortened, or keep them cool- better overall cell life, but take a dip in performance. This time of the year, I would recommend charging at 6 amps, and then sticking them in your pocket, to keep warm
For Silver Can, or Sport Tuned bashing, I still don't think you can beat Ye Olde Tamiya RC1400SP stick packs. Very punchy, and last for years
To be fair though, My GP3300's used to get a real hammering when i was racing; charging at 6 Amps, straight off the charger, and into the car without letting them cool.........And they're still going strong after 3 or more years
-
Does sound like a good project Mike, but I think that one would take someone a couple of months to knock together
there are some very talented scratch builders on here, who I am sure would be more than up to the challenge. As yet, I still have to summon up the courage to scratch build something!
-
Thanks Guys
I've been painting the body today. Thoroughly washed it with lots of warm soapy water, then about 7 coats of Peugeot Pagoda Red, which is a metallic burgundy colour, then two coats of lacquer. It looks good from a distance, but doesn't really stand up to closer inspection
There's a few places where the paint has sunk into the plastic a little, and made the base coat look patchy, and dark. I'm going to let the paint harden for a week, then flat it back with 1500 wet or dry, and a grey scotch brite, then paint it again! At least whats on there will help seal it all in. -
Cheers Mike
I'll load up you tube in a bit and have a look! At the moment, I'm going to get used to running the truck and trailer stock, as this is my first time with one. I am thinking of getting some longer poles for the trailer, and extending the pole trailers towing pole, as I feel that the trailer looks a little short behind the King Hauler. I have read here that other people feel the same way as well. At sometime in the future, I quite fancy the Reefer trailer, and maybe a Globe Liner as well, as I love the retro looking trucks
It's a shame that Tamiya don't do a car transporter trailer, I would spend a fortune on Tamtech cars filling it!!
My Mrs is encouraging me to do a future project, which would involve severely mutilating another King Hauler............... I'll give you all a clue; Think of a film starring Dennis Hopper..........There will be a lot of scratch building for that one!! I'll also need to get a decent air brush as well
-
Yeap, it really is that easy
The one with the oil bottle on the back is the Super Champ. The oil bottle is there to keep the rear monoshock topped up with oil. The Super Champ essentially looks similar to a Rough Rider, but there are many differences! I use my Super Champ for my Avatar
-
I was thinking about doing a build thread, but then I got carried away, and forgot to take pictures!! I have managed to take a few though, and here they are! I'm currently fitting the MFU at the moment, and that's proving a little more difficult than I first thought...... All those wires, and where do you route them through the chassis?! I think it's going to be a case of a cable tie here, a piece of tape there....
-
Luckily for you, there isn't a lot of difference!
The RR didn't have the exhaust mounted on the rear cage, the wheels and tyres are different..... The fronts will be the biggest problem, and seem to command quite a premium on ebay, as they are fairly unique. As far as I remember, to mount the body, you only have to remove the SS front body mount post, and then the RR body mounts to the servo post.
I've been thinking about getting a RR body for my SS, just to have the best of both worlds
Good Luck Matthew
-
That looks a really good club, and a really professional set up, well done to you all
Sadly it will be a bit difficult for me to join in, as I live over 100 miles away, but good luck with the racing
-
So maybe there's a link between liking vintage/ classic cars, and vintage Tamiya then???
Dazaa, if you PM me a picture of the Rover you have seen, I can give you a better idea of what it's worth. Least desirable are the 2000cc single carb automatics, the twin carb models are slightly more desirable, 3500 V8's are the ones getting the money now, "S" models with the manual gear box are most desirable, and the estate cars are the holy grail
I paid 500 for mine, and it was the same colour originally as the one it is parked next to in the picture. I have thrown a **** load of money at it since then though!! The bumpers are US spec, and came all the way from California. They're totally different to the UK spec bumpers. It's had pretty much every outer body panel replaced, full repaint, full leather interior, boot mount spare wheel kit....... Planning on a brake servo rebuild in the next couple of months, and then getting the auto gearbox rebuilt in the next few months
Oh dear, I've just shown my Nerd side!
-
Welcome aboard
You have made a wise decision joining, as there is always someone on here who has the answer to any problems
-
Cheers Dude
The good thing with the MGB's is you can get every part for them, and it's all reasonably priced. Even brand new bodyshells! Sounds like you have a nice project there. You can't beet dragging a beat up old car out of somewhere, and brining it back to life
Yeap, I'm a bit of a classic car geek as well!
-
Camaro's are one of my favourite all time cars. I'm hoping someday to get the money together to buy a 1969 model. Gorgeous
Kaiser, the "Doctor low tech" thing made me smile! That about somes me up actually.......... I'm absolutely useless with computers, prefer amplifiers with valves in, only like cars with chrome bumpers and no airbags........ Still don't know how to use all the features on my mobile phone!
Dazaa, Rovers are ugly? You need to see Rovers that were built before the great British Leyland sellout...... The P5 saloons, and coupes are gorgeous, and built like a brick outhouse! The P6 models are my favourite. I love the agressive front end styling, and the long sweeping bodywork
Mine is the white one, on the right
The old Morris I have here is a 1967 Mk1 1800, AKA the Landcrab, as the motoring press of the day used to call them!
I have to admit, I didn't realise there was a ProII guitar!! My mate used to have an Aria ProII bass.
-
Happy New Year guy's and gal's !!
And thankyou to everyone who has given me advice and tips on my old Tamiya stuff through 2008.
-
The inserts I have been using are Schumacer buggy rears, either hard or medium grade. They only cost about 3 or 4 quid a pair, and they stop the rear tyres acting like mini space hoppers
Quite simple to fit; fit insert inside the tyre, then force the centre part of the wheel back in, then pull the sidewall of the tyre outwards, to make sure that the insert is centralised, and not bunched up anywhere. Then fit the outer rims back on, and your done! -
Good for you dude, that Frog looks really good.
Mine is running the high ratio gear set on a ST as well. Mine flies along as well! One thing I did do on mine with the rear wheels and tyres is fit rear tyre inserts. Normal off the peg buggy ones fit a treat, and on mine I found that they stopped the rear end bouncing a little, and helped with rear end traction a little.
I always said that I wouldn't get mine muddy, then i took it along to a Clumber Meet, got a little carried away, and came home with a brown Frog!
-
Just trying to work out if I'm a geek, nerd, or 70's retro obssesive!!
-
Dazaa, the old Aria pro II was a **** good bass in it's day, and still is! Look up Metallica's bass god Cliff Burton on You-Tube..... Totally awesome
The Mrs and I have 3 Precision type basses kicking around. One of them I found in a junk shop, with only three strings on it, and I gave the guy a tenner for it!! Got it home,put some new strings on it, and it's got a lovely warm growl to it
think it's a late 70's copy. My Mrs plays a Precision with Seymour Duncan quarter pounders in it. That does growl!! Forget points?? Wash your mouth out young man!!
Points, Carburettor, etc are the future...... You can actually fix them at the road side! Well, my 1975 Rover 3500 has had an electronic ignition kit fitted, but I keep the original points and condensor in the glovebox just in case the moderness lets me down........ My retro rides are as follows;
1975 Rover P6 3500 V8
1975 Mk2 Escort 1600 Ghia
1978 Mk2 Escort 1600 Ghia
1978 Mk2 Escort 1300 GL
And there's an old Morris lying around somewhere as well
PS, If you want to get rid of the Pro II...........????
-
Well done Ron, glad your having fun!
I too am new to the world of Trucks, and have just spent the christmas period building my first; a King Hauler. There's some lovely engineering, and everything is superb quality. Have you got a trailer yet?? I went for the Pole Trailer, and that too is beautifully engineered.
You have made a wise decision fitting ball bearings during the build
-
I like taliesin's comments about what is "normal"
The world is too full of sheep these days, who want to dress the same, do the same things, and have to do, or look, which ever way the media says is cool............... Wasn't it Oscar Wilde that said "Today's fashion is tommorow's form of ugliness"??
My user ID of "Retroman" is a bit of a statement of who I am really, and it's also a really cool track by a US rock band called "Spirit Caravan"!
That's another love of mine, Obscure retro rock music. I tend to listen to bands that have an original theme to their music, rather than bands who are rehashing things a bit. No X-Factor, or this so called R&B that's about today for me!! Proper R&B is pretty cool, but I think that the term has been Hi-Jacked by the music business...............Another Retroman thing is the cars that my wife and I drive. The newest car that we own was built in 1978. Whats an ECU?? Give me a Carb, points, and a coil anyday.
I also love retro guitars. My two Favourites, that are hanging pride of place on our living room wall are a 1969 Gibson EB2, and a 1980 Rickenbacker 4001. IMHO, 2 of the coolest bass guitars ever built. I have a real hankering for a mid 70's Gibson Thunderbird at the moment
The same rules apply to my taste in RC cars really. My Mrs kindly bought me a Tractor Truck, and Trailer for Christmas this year. What a little star!! For me it had to be the King Hauler, due to it's really cool retro looks. I think if I build another, it will be the Globe Liner.
Well, that's me in a nutshell!!
Don't get me wrong, if I was to buy another tourer, it would probably be an X-Ray 
King Hauler And Pole Trailer
in Big Rigs and Scale Armour
Posted
The only Ramp it will ever see will be a loading ramp!!
Hoping for some nice weather this weekend, so I can have another go at the body, then hopefully I can get it finished!
Just itching to get trucking 