retroman
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Posts posted by retroman
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That looks sweet!
Talking of Ghost Frog's, I've got one that I am starting to think is either cursed, or haunted.....................
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Or the one I really hate "remote control car"!
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Very usefull. Thanks Stefan
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That's very pretty..................Makes me want to take up racing tourers again!!
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I have to admit, I have heard about 2.4ghz stuff, but don't really know that much about it! I heard that the theory is that the transmittor and the reciever "tune" themselves into each other at the cleanest possible frequency, so that the chances of interference are virtually nil. Also heard that when you are using seperate recievers in different cars, eg, at a bash, then sometimes they don't want to tune in to each other. just what I have been told chaps, I have no experience of it myself.
I would be reluctant to change from 40mhz FM, as I already have around 10 recievers, and three sets of crystals. Also have to confess to being a bit of a technophobe........ No brushless or Lipo for me!!
My user name does sum me up quite nicely My KO Esprit II has both digital, and analogue trom facilities on it, but to be honest I only tend to use the analogue ones. Much easier, and saves having to remember how to scroll through menus, and remember how to set it! I did use all the digital facilities on it when I was racing though.
The good news is that "The Boss" has given the green light for ordering the MFU.
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Cheers Chaps
As luck would have it, it was the 4EX that I was thinking of going for. 40MHZ FM is legal here in the UK.
With the 4EX having 4 model memory, it means that I can run my Blazing Blazer, and any other future 3 speed projects with it
I have to admit, I'm quite fancying a Globeliner already!! Those Carson trailors look quite tasty as well, if a tad pricey!!
Best UK price I have found for the MFU so far is ?204 GBP, within the UK. The old order from Hong Kong trick has gone out the window now, as the exchange rate has bombed.
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Thankyou, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I will be building a King Hauler over Christmas, so as it is a similar length to the Knight Hauler, I guess I should order some extension cables.
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Hi Guy's,
I'm a Truck noob at the moment, and I am wondering what you get with the MFU, as the information on it is a little vague! I understand that it doubles up as a speed controller, sound effects, but what else do you get? Does it also come with all the lights? It's a pretty hefty investment, and I don't want to order it, and then find I am only getting half of what I expected....... I guess I will still need a seperate reciever.
Also, what's the best radio gear to go for? I want to stick with 40mhz FM if possible, as I have 40mhz FM crystals already, for my KO Esprit II.
Thanks in advance,
Rich
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Appolgies for not turning up guys.
I did intend on turning up, but the risk of snow put me off the journey, as it would probably have been a 120 mile round trip for me, which in a Mk2 Escort, could have been a little dodgy! It's my daily driver, I don't own a modern car!
I'll keep an eye out for the next one, and hope for some better weather.
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My Favourite On-Road chassis' for racing;
Losi XXXS G+. Clever single belt transmission, and looks really cool when hopped up with all that Trinity red alloy! I raced a XXXS G+ for about 2 years, and the only thing that stopped me using it was when that awful JRX-S thing came out, and no one would stock Losi stuff anymore.......... A lovely, nuetral handling car, very easy to setup, and get good results with. I'll never part with this one.
Yokomo SD SSG. The most free running transmission I have ever had on any of my touring cars, and definately engineered with racers in mind. I've always found mine a little twitchy on indoor carpet tracks, but better outdoors. Chassis tweak was a real pain though....As well as the diff bolts exploding. Still got it!!
X-Ray FK04. Fantastic, another one I would never part with. Superb quality, and what has always impressed me with X-Ray cars, is there is never any slop in the suspension components. One thing that has never impressed me with X-Ray though...... they're shocks. They're awful, and never stop leaking. Fit TRF dampers!! Always used to make A finals at club level with this car.
As for off road? I've never raced off road, so I can't offer up an opinion on that one! Come to think of it, I have never raced a Tamiya on road chassis either!!
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OK, I've been reading this with great interest!!
How about the TL01?? (I'm probably gonna get blasted for that one!) OK, not the most advanced chassis in terms of suspension, tunability, etc, but I think that the 4WD layout is really clever, and trick. I have 2, and they're great fun, especially the modified one with all the options fitted.
Hotshot. I think that the rear mono-shock set up on this one is really clever. Far better engineered than the Super Champ version.
Hi-Lux/ Blazing Blazer. IMHO, a fine piece of scale engineering. Just a shame they didn't fit them with any suspension!
14th scale Tractor Trucks. Same reasons as Hi-Lux, and Blazer.
So............Where do you guy's think "The Frog" fits into all this?? pretty well me thinks
Much faster, lighter, and more stable than any of the SRB range, and can turn on a six pence. Really easy to drive. -
Horses for courses I guess!
Love running my vintage stuff, especially my Sand Scorcher, and Super Champ, but I have an Associated B4, for when I feel the need for speed
Always worth having a "Modern" kicking about, in case the bash you're at gets a little rough! -
Yeah, that's pretty much how I flush my bearings. Generally I put them in a small plastic pot, with a screw top, pop the bearings in, and half fill the pot with white spirit. new bearings I will leave to soak overnight. Then shake the pot hard, and lovely free spinning bearings! I tend to oil them with Trinity Royal Oil.
Try the same trick with bearings that are full of dirt. You'll be surprised at the amount of filth that will be in the bottom of the pot! keep repeating the process until no more muck comes out, then check the bearing spins nice and free.
Rubber sealed bearings, I tend to pop the seal off one side, so they can be flushed and oiled. When fitted to the car, I fit the side with the seal facing outwards. I done this with my Associated B4.
Properly flushed, oiled, and maintained bearings can make a big difference to performance, and run time. Just ask anyone whos races 12th scale!!
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All my Vintage stuff runs ESC, MSC is just too much of a pain for me. I Have the original type MSC's for my vintage stuff though, and they're wrapped up in the bottom of a box.
The only car I am running at the moment with a MSC is my Blazing Blazer. But this too will be getting an ESC in the not too distant future, along with new servo's for the gearshift, and the steering. Simple reason being that the car has all it's original vintage radio gear, which is in excellent working condition, and I want to keep it that way. I'm buying brand new radio gear for my King Hauler, so I'll use that for the Blazer as well, and put the old Acoms set away somewhere safe
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Both my Frogs are fully ball raced, and as with all my cars, I flushed all the grease out the bearings, and then lightly oiled them. The front wheels spin for ages, and the gearboxes are lovely and free running. They both have plenty of grease in the drive shafts
If you do the above, and use really good quality battery packs, the sport-tuned will make for a lively frog.
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I have a vintage Frog, running a retro Schumacer Formula 17T stock motor, and a re-re Frog, running a sport tuned. Not yet had drive shaft, or gearbox issues on either.
The Frog is an excellent car. "No Guts, No Glory"
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Malakite, ever been to a Clumber Meet??
I'm very much into running my vintage stuff. My Blazer got it's first off roading at the last Clumber meet. It's a real overweight dinosaur, with no suspension to speak of, but hilarious! I spent hours cleaning and polishing all the chassis and axles, hours rebuilding the gearbox................Then had a great laugh submerging it up to the radio box in muddy water, doing some proper vintage crawling!! It's what they were designed for at the end of the day. Muck wipes off, things can be dismanttled, dried out, and re-oiled
My 2 main favourites for running are my 2 Frogs, and a Super Champ. The frogs are quicker though. I also gave my re-re Hotshot it's first run there. Went really well! 15T pinion on the silver can, and a Tamiya 1400 ni-cad pack. It was built fully ballraced with flushed and lightly oiled bearings though.
I always think it's a shame not to run them. After all, that's what Mr Tamiya intended them for!
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Or there is always the old chestnut of opening up a silver can, advancing the timing by twisting the comm on the armature, and then go racing!
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OK, I'll try and explain! This is assuming that we are talking about a standard 540 type rebuildable motor
Against the commutator, you should have a larger fibre washer, that is slightly bigger than the comm. The next bit is a little bit of trial and error. The trick is to find where the armature balances in the magnetic field inside the can. Fit the fibre washer beside the commutator, that the brushes run on, then fit the armature back inside the can, and refit the endbell, but don't refit the brushes yet. If you push the armature axle from either the endbell end, or the can end, you will find that the armature will be pulled or pushed back by the magnets in the can. this is where the armature is balanced in the magnetic field. Then work out how many shims or washers are required for the armature to run in this position, without excessive end float.
Hope this makes sense. A lot of new motors I have had in the past haven't been correctly shimmed from the factory! So don't worry about all the washers falling out. If you have a good model shop near you that specialises in RC, they should keep packets of motor shims.
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I'm still hoping to make it along to this meet, although it's a fair trip. The Blazer went to it's first bash, with the Clumber Crew, at the weekend, and seemed reliable. Even when half submerged in muddy water!!
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I'm guessing that someone from the three speed SIG could answer that one better than I can. The spur gear assembly is 2 gears moulded into one, so it vaguely resembles the one from "The Frog". The larger part of the gear is driven by the motor pinion, then the smaller gear that is part of the molding, drives the gearbox. I haven't a clue as to what pitch the gears are. The Blazing Blazer I need it for is my first vintage 3 speed, so it's very much a learning curve for me.
Thanks for the response
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Sticking motor brushes?? Trying "pinging" the shunt wires, and see if it bursts into life
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I went upstairs the other night, and saw something underneath the Blazing Blazer.... bless her, she had found it a little drip tray! What a star
I had a strange one a few years back, with an ex, conversation went like this, about my Mk1 Escort RS2000 replica;
"You think more of that car than you do of me".
"Do I"?
"Either that ****** car goes, or I do"
"Bye then"
I never did see, or hear from her again after that!
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Cheers for replying Dready, and thanks for the tip.
I'll give you a shout if I every need some one off bodyshell parts doing, or stuff like that
My user name does sum me up quite nicely 
Much faster, lighter, and more stable than any of the SRB range, and can turn on a six pence. Really easy to drive.
What Is It About The Clod Buster?
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
My friend recently asked me to bid on an original Clod for him on ebay. Absolute minter!! I had never seen a Clod in the flesh before, and they are certainly impressive