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El Mexican

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About El Mexican

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  1. Every Tamiya I´ve ever built has been a pleasure to assemble...except the Baja King. Don´t even think about postponing the installation of the steering servo. If you do, you have to take the whole thing apart because of the "clam shape" chasis. Even with a good motor, I felt it was not fast at all. I realiza both 'Baja' kits are very cheap, but the Hornet, for example, is equal in price and goes a lot faster (handles like ****, though, but you kind of love the car in spite of this flaw, anyway)
  2. Yep. Contains the longest and detailed in-depth reviews of the cars that most matter to TC members: electric 2wd and 4wd. I believe in another post I read that the owner of the site is also a TC member. Congrats if you read this!
  3. Hello there. Great tips from everyone. I seriously recommend the link bellow. It´s the best resource for RC photography I have ever read. The site is also fantastic. http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/article-photo1/index.html
  4. Just a silly question here: Are you sure that's the Acto-Power pink motor? Remember that the DynaStorm buggy comes with a nearly identical pink-colored motor but in NOT the Acto-Power version. Maybe that answers the resistor question. Tamiya are very detail oriented, so an error like that seems plain weird.
  5. Wait a sec... So the original body does not have a roll cage molded in the shell? Just checking...I think I have been scammed!
  6. Hmmm, tough one there... Don´t want to sound negative, but it´s probably easier to buy a basher KC or Toyota Hilux Monster Racer (chassis brother) than search for a used body. I don´t recall any particular company producing replicas of these shells, probably because the level of detail is phenomenal. Maybe your best bet would be to slap on a generic stadiun racer shell from Parma or HPI. You´ll loose flashiness, but gain mental peace for not ruining that beatiful shell KC in a crash or rollover.
  7. Hi, hope this helps. You really dont need anything fancy, since tha mayor part of the batt holder is "embbeded" to the shock tower. You can try to fit some Tamiya parts in the front section. All you need is two screws and, I repeat, some parts that have an L form to hold the battery firmly (the chassis gives you the option to adjust it in 3 positions). Not very scientific, but at least its an ideas...
  8. (Not sure if this post technically goes here. Sorry if it doesn't, Administrators) I consider myself an avid RC hobbyist. For at least 15 years I´ve watched trends come and go, fads die and replaced. Taking this into account, am I the only person that's absolutely bored stiff of yet another 1/8 nitro buggy release? C'mon! Can you guys sincerely tell the difference between Ofna's new Hyper PCB (or whatever its called) and Mugen's new offering? Where's the uniqueness people look for in a 300 dollar purchase? Can the RC market take this any longer? That's why I still love Tamiya. Maybe not the fastest cars, but quite surely the ones with the most attitude. There. I've taken this thought off my chest. Thanks for reading!
  9. Thanks everyone for your replies. Disco: you´re very kind. I can´t seem to contact you via Tamiyaclub. Could you post your email in this thread? Thanks!
  10. I think you hit the nail on the head, djmcnz. The car does in fact bounce all over the place, so it probably has to do with the spring rate and not the sterring system, which has no slop. Thank you. Going back to the original question: can you remove the one-way system that is used in the transmision? I´m really having trouble while steering in hard angles because the car feels just too aggresive. Thanks in advance.
  11. Is there any way to make this car less "squirrerly". I understand the transmision uses some kind of one-way system (the car is used, with no instructions), so I suppose that's why it feels so free while changing directions. The problem is my car feels "too free" even on straightways. Any advice?
  12. Personally, I´ve experienced no trouble with my used KC and a fairly potent motor. The thing has at least 10 years under its belt. I can´t stress this enough: NEVER EVER EVER aply ceramic or molybdenum grease to the diffballs and plates. Use ONLY silicone grease and make sure you tighten it well. I experienced exactly the same problem as you and after rebuilding the diff about 5 times I realized just how important the silicone is. It makes ALL the difference. Build the diff correctly and the KC will go virtually without maintenance for months. Its a great truck. It´s worth it. Cheers.
  13. You can count out Taiwan as being a country know for cheap work force. Most Taiwanese companies actually have factories in mainland China because of its much cheaper labor force. Taiwan is a first-world country. Their economic ascent has been impresive since they stopped mass producing plastic products in the 70s and 80s and shifted to the electronic bussiness in the 90s. Every second three PC motherboards are produced in Taiwan. That's just amazing. No other country produces such quantity of mbs. Most Taiwanese electronic technology (Sandisk, BenQ, Acer) is on par with Korean brands (LG, Samsung, Daewo), although they are still behind Japan in terms of quality and design (and price).
  14. I owned a Rhino about 15 years ago. It was fast. Much faster than any Tamiya I have owned since then that comes with the standard 540 and MSC combination. I friend had about the same time a Hornet. We used to race on his street and he would always beat me. The mayor difference was that his Tamiya had slicks in the rear, while my Rhino ran with the usual worn-out spikes every Nikko develops after a couple of batteries. Good times. It would be incredibly cool if someone could do a track test on both cars. I´d bet on the Rhino...
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