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Everything posted by stu22

  1. I'm using an old Garmin Forerunner 101 training "watch." If buying new the Garmin watches are above what you want to spend, but there is a pretty good used market out there.
  2. Only think I can think of for the third wire is a temp sensor to prevent over charging, but would be very surprised to see something like that on something this vintage. Have you confirmed that the white wire, and the other contacts, are actually connected to the board somewhere and not there just because they pulled a part of the shelf that happened to have it? If it is connected to something you could try connecting it to the ground/negative on the battery under the assumption that the infinite resistance reading it is now seeing is causing it to not work.
  3. While I use Futaba for the toys that I race, I switched most of my bashers and collection over to FlySky GT-3B/C radios a while ago. The main issue with using the Futaba on a large collection is you end up spending a small fortune on just receivers, where you can get a GT-3B/C and 9 more receivers for around the cost of a single RS603FF receiver. The GT-3 does not perform as well as a 3PM/3PK, but good enough is good enough for what I have them in.
  4. Cheapest solution would probably be to buy the packs designed for cordless phones and wire them together. Only "issue" here is their low capacity, but it shouldn't really matter unless you make it a habit of running for several hours in a row and never throw the thing on the charger. https://www.amazon.com/BT18433-BT184342-BT284342-Replacement-Cordless/dp/B0742877KY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=cordless+phone+battery+pack&qid=1569694489&sr=8-8 Of course you can get the higher capacity packs, but be prepared to pay extra. https://www.batteryspace.com/custom-nimh-battery-4-8v-2700mah-4xa.aspx
  5. It's overkill for most and is kind of pricey, but is a neat toy to have. http://www.mcpappyracing.com/dyno.php
  6. I'm currently using a Creality CR-10S and Ender 3 for printing. I believe they are priced around $400 and $180 these days, and require some basic assembly. Consumer grade printers have evolved quite a bit since I built my first one in 2010, a MakerBot Thing-O-Matic which still gets occasional use. While you don't need to do as much in terms of assembly and the software now has some pretty good default settings for starting out, there is some tuning to get good results, there is still a learning curve. For many the printer is initially as much a project as it is a tool. Between understanding the material being printed, the hardware of the printer, the software controlling the printer, and the software used to design and prepare files, plan on spending some time with the thing. You really have to read the specs of each printer to know what it can and cannot print. In general, a FDM printer will always print PLA, which works fine for most RC applications. Other materials will depend on what the hardware is and the temperatures it can achieve. What I've found is the more expensive hardware options generally have more convenience features that really are not needed once you learn how things work.
  7. I picked up a used Garmin Forerunner 201 off of eBay.
  8. Not saying that someone here would not be willing to volunteer their personal and printer time but have you looked at just buying a set of badges from some online source? 3d printing is great for things that are no longer available or prototyping, but, for something that you can just buy, printing is always the most expensive option given the time to design, print, and finish (i.e. painting.)
  9. Without a sensor of some type there is no way for the thing to measure any temps. Are you sure you are not just looking at the reading for the optional sensor and just seeing what it reads when nothing is hooked up?
  10. Took a quick look at my Grasshopper which I got in '84 and it has TAMIYA in the same spot. Same thing with my Hornet, although I got that in the late 2000's had and can't be sure about it's age except that it came with the old 3-speed MSC.
  11. Brushless ESCs are just like brushed, there will be a turn limit, and sometimes a motor size for the number of turns. You have to remember it is the motor that draws the energy from the battery through the ESC, not the battery pushing energy to the motor. The motor you pick will determine how much power the ESC will have to provide. To get the maximum performance, you would first match the ESC specs to a motor, and then look at the ESC amp rating for continuous and burst to determine the right battery to hook up to the thing. The number of cells has nothing to do with the amp rating you need.
  12. I currently have an SC10, 2wd Slash, and an Ofna Hyper 10sc. For 2wd modified SCT racing the SC10 is my choice, but, it depends on what rules are in place in terms of motors, tires, and mods you can have for a specific class. I suppose you could get the Slash to run as well as an SC10 but it would involve changing quite a few things. For the SC10 I just threw in an old EzRun 9T, upgraded shocks, and track appropriate tires. One thing I have noticed is most tracks have beginner friendly classes for the Slash. There are usually at least a completely stock, along with a modified but only with Traxxas parts class that are setup as a way to get into racing without having to spend a small fortune on hop-ups to be competitive. The class I ran the Slash in allowed the Traxxas Velineon motor, big bore shocks, but stock wheels and tires. I have to admit that it was fun running in a class where everyone was running pretty much the same hardware and I learned quite a bit about how to tune the few things we could change. The only other advantage a Slash would have is the thing is nearly indestructible, and being waterproof, is great for bashing around. The Hyper 10sc is a completely different animal, being more like a scaled down electric conversion of a 1/8 nitro buggy than scaling up an electric 1/10, along with the extra costs for parts and motor/ESC setup. I got the Ofna years ago and before Associated came out with the SC10 4x4 or I probably would have gotten that instead.
  13. While I'm fine with a wheel radio, using the shift gate template in my vintage Bruiser manual as a starting point, I've 3D printed plates to fit on a 4-channel radio to make it feel like a 2 for a friend that just couldn't get use to a wheel.
  14. I don't think there will not be a FCC license for it. 2.4GHz is unlicensed spectrum when it comes to RC and many other uses (which is one of the reasons there are so many things using it.) If you import a more domestic device like a cordless phone or baby monitor do you have to fill out the same form? Have you asked around about the specific rules and purpose of the form you are filling out?
  15. What would be more important than the surface area is the resistance of the connector. Since you have all three can you stick an Ohm meter on them and see what it reads? I'm guessing that the Deans and XT60 will be consistent, while the Tamiya will change quite a bit as you wiggle the wires around. I've standardized on Deans connectors (with the exception of a few stock Traxxas toys) after melting Tamiya connectors on some very mild setups. Tamiya connectors were fine 40 years ago but these days they just can't handle the current that a modern battery pack can deliver.
  16. Assuming the parts are ABS plastic, get some acetone and melt some ABS in it to get a paste. Use the paste to chemically weld the broken pieces together.
  17. Biggest difference is the GT2 series is really setup for a single model, while the GT3 have memory slots for the various settings on different toys. FWIW, I switched most of my bashers and seldom run toys over the FS-GT3B radios from Futaba 3PM's. At the time, I could get a FS-GT3B setup and 9 additional receivers for about the same price as a single Futaba R603FF receiver. Have not had any problems with the ones I currently have, but have to admit, these are in the seldom run part of my collection.
  18. For ABS, like you see on a Hornet, one of the things you do when 3d printing is dissolve some in acetone to make a paste to "glue" pieces together.
  19. You are right about Futaba being expensive. After spending a small fortune on Futaba FASST receivers, I switched most of the vintage, non-racing, and seldom run part of my RC collection to FlySky GT-3B radio's. I haven't checked lately, but there was a time you could order a GT-3B and 9 additional receivers, to have one for every memory slot, for a little more than a single Futaba R603FF receiver. Also buy most of the radio stuff online since any store in the US that actually stocks the stuff will have a pretty good markup.
  20. Only real solution I've found is to make shift gates for a 4+ channel setup. With the drop in prices, you just don't see 2-channel, 2-stick setups for planes since you can get a 4+ channel setup for next to nothing these days. For the most part I've use Futaba EX6 transmitters, with the cheap OrangeRX or Corona receivers from HobbyKing for ground models. I have also picked up a few HobbyKing 4/6-channel 2.4GHz setups through various trades and auctions, and have never had a functional problem with them. Only issue is the low end HobbyKing systems I have do not store multiple profiles so they are kind of stuck to a single model meaning more stuff to haul around when playing with the toys. Should probably add, I generally use FlySky GT-3B wheel radios for the bashers in the collection. Bought a few of them a few years ago along with a full set of receivers for each and still have open memory slots.
  21. Only time I have ever had a ball diff melt like that is in on one of my DB01's. With the diff too loose, one of the tires lost traction and the difference in speed between both sides caused the problem. This was with an EzRun 9T 4300kV setup. I'm guessing that the thing was either too loose or you were using too much throttle for the motor/gear setup you have. 70% throttle will have very different results on something like a 3300kV 17.5T vs a 4300kV 9T motor. [EDIT: Just re-read this and realized it could not have been too loose since you were running a static type test.] Personally I just put the things together and run a few easy laps to break things in, but then again I'm just bashing these days.
  22. I've switched most of my bashers and seldom run stuff to FS-GT3B's. Have never had any problems but there are some who believe it can cause problems for Spektrum systems when running at the same time. Personally I have never seen any problems but I can't say it doesn't happen. Switched things over after realizing I was spending a small fortune on Futaba R603FF receivers. You can get the FlySky transmitter and a full set of receivers for it for close to the price of a single Futaba receiver.
  23. I still have some of the original LiPo packs I bought 8 years ago and they still take a full charge. Not sure why people worry about getting LiPo batteries wet. The RC boating world has switched to LiPo for the high power stuff with the batteries essentially being the same as what you would use in a car. I moved onto a private lake 3 years ago and got into RC boats, using the batteries I bought for the cars in the boats when they fit. On more than one occasion they have gotten soaked, meaning sitting submerged in the bottom of a hull almost full of water, and they still work fine.
  24. My guess would be the shocks mounts would be high to fit under the body or the offset is wrong for the width. These are two of the things that you can adjust on an HPI Cup Racer to get different bodies to fit the thing. When I wanted to change the used one I got a while ago from the Mini to the Datsun body I found that I didn't have all the parts I would have needed to convert it.
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