glancyguy

Hello everyone, I am about to built the Supra JAZ80 BT-01 kit. I watched the PoorBoys RC videos and want to build the car in FR first. As many of you know, the manual starts in MR and the supplemental manual explains how to convert from MR to FR. I'd prefer to avoid building in MR and then go through the FR conversion. Has anyone made a "guide" on how to reorder the steps between the two manuals to start by building FR? Or does everyone just build MR first and then do the FR conversion? I looked through forum threads and could not seem to find a conversation about this. I also tried to go to TamiyaUSA.com this AM to get the new Porsche BT-01 PDF manual, but the site is down. Apologies if this has already been covered and I missed it!

@Otis311 I solved that by about 1° of front toe out. The car wandered everywhere with toe-in.

@chris.alexthanks! I picked up a pair on eBay. Also Rex’s RC has a great video “MF-01x Tuning Tips” on YouTube where he tames the understeer. I put 300wt oil in the front shocks 2 hole piston, 600wt in rear, 1 hole. I removed the spacers from the front shocks to lower the front right height more. Last, I set the rear camber at .05° and front toe out 1°. It is a remarkably stable little M chassis.

Reopening this thread. I just built my MF-01X and set it up for asphalt as I really don't have any good rally surfaces around me. Long wheelbase, low ride height, 60D hard tires with foam inserts, softer front suspension. Only upgrades have been ball bearings and the aluminum motor plate. Tamiya sport tuned motor, 1060, 18T pinion, and 3s Lipo. I was impressed with straight line stability for an m-chassis. I am gradually hacking away at the understeer. I was looking at the Yeah Racing universals for the front. There are 30mm and 33mm available. @alvinlwhasked this question, but I can't see a response from anyone. Which should I get given my setup?

@sccaracer75years the part number is 54339. Not sure where you live, but they are hard to find in the US. I order mine from Tamico.de...who has them in stock: https://tamico.de/?suche=54339&lang=eng

Hello Everyone, Just a quick note here to finish out this thread. First off, thank you so much to @Killajb for all the insights, willingness to mail me parts, and answering my questions on DM. I was able to source the turnbuckles, ball joints, a propeller shaft and some GB-01 rear wheels and GB-01 Buggy Champ Tires. I had to use a long shock body and rod for the front, basically another rear shock. I luckily have 2 GB-01S kits and was able to take a body from that kit (hence the blue front shock body). One other note, I had to use the stock tie rods from the rear upper arms for front steering arms as the 29mm turnbuckles are too long. With a 2S 20C airlift Lipo, this little buggy is an absolute joy to drive. It would be great to see another GB chassis in 2024!

@qatmixThis is great. Here is where I need to tune (I believe): "On the rear, I played with various settings and found that a base 1.75 or 2.0 Deg was fine, but I lengthened the upper links to reduce the amount of camber gain as the car leaned into the corner. This was done with a combination of a tweaked inner roll centre setting (Adding 2mm under the ball nuts), along with me changing the upper hub spacer on the aluminium rear hubs to 1mm from the default 2mm. " The issue I have is that when the car leans into the corner, the rear breaks loose. I have reset the M0-7 back to kit settings. All I did was at more camber to the rear tires. It drives good enough, but I am not satisfied with the stability of the rear. When I added the rear red soft sway bar, it made the car undrivable, the rear would just spin out entering a corner. Will the above give the rear more bite and stay planted on cornering? In full transparency, this level of suspension tuning is new to me. So, pardon some ignorant questions.

@Butler okay, I will swap sway bars. Yes, I have hard inserts in front and soft in rear.

@Butleryes, removing the rear sway bar makes the car somewhat more stable. I still have the front sway bar. Are you suggesting I detach the front and attach the rear or vice versa? I am coming to the conclusion that the rear just has excessive chassis roll. I see now that the rear chassis excessively. On hard cornering, the rear breaks loose if I push it and in the straight, the slightest swerve and it breaks loose. If I come off power in the straight and make the slightest turn, the rear breaks loose and steers the car hard left or right. I realize there is a lot going on here that I am asking... I think the bottom line is this - how do I decrease all around rear chassis roll on my M-07?

@SogogiI am somewhat new to droop screws, right now I have them all at the kit instructions, which I believe is neutral. What adjustments would I make to get more rear stability?

@Butleryes, I have a ProTek 140T, high torque saver and aluminum horn. EPA already set low. That got the right steering response on cornering and eliminated most of the twitch. I think I just solved the twitching by adding toe-in the front. My last issue (apologies if I don't use the right terms) is that there is rear chassis roll under acceleration. I notice that the rear will start to break loose in the straight when I lightly swerve left and right. I need the rear to be more planted in the straights. I tried the following: 1. I swapped the soft springs to the rear and hard up front. That helped a little. 2. I added the soft rear sway bar...which seemed to make the problem worse. I had a hypothesis that maybe there was maybe too much suspension roll in the rear. What else should I try to keep the rear planted under acceleration?

Hello All, I posted this in the M thread and did not get a response. Since that post, I made some adjustments to steering (reflected below). I just finished building my M07 concept car. I really enjoyed the build and it is completely different driving experience than an M05. I can see the potential in the car. I have tuned the car to an acceptable level of oversteer and satisfied with corner entry, apex, and exit handling. The car is still very twitchy in the straights. My last tuning goal is much more stability on acceleration after corner exit. I originally started off with a super stiff front and soft rear and had a horrible time getting the car to handle at all. Since, I have rolled back to the kit build instructions (with the exception of 2 hole piston rear and adding front sway bar). Here are the build notes: 225 Medium chassis configuration. Upgraded differential with Tamiya metal gears and hop up diff blue metal diff cover with stock differential and kit included oil 22T pinion Tamiya 540 Silver Can 4200 2s Lipo HW 1060 Brushed ESC Hop Up front Sway Bar - Blue (hard) Front CVAs - 1 piston Tamiya - yellow kit oil - default shock spacers, soft springs Rear CVAs -2 piston Tamiya - yellow kit oil - default shock spacers, hard springs Front tires - 60D hard with hard foam inserts Rear tires - 60D soft with soft foam inserts Droop adjustments - none - all the droop screws in place, but I have yet to set them - however it looks like the setup has about 1 - 2mm more droop in the rear. Rear Toe-in - 3.2 degrees per kit instructions Front Toe-in - per instructions (seems neutral from what I can tell) Rear Camber - 1 degree negative Front Camber - per instructions Driving conditions - Asphalt (street) 50 - 70F (10 -20C) Proline low profile servo with all Tamiya hop up metal steering rack/arms I ordered the 6 degree aluminum block to add more caster (should be here next week). Besides that, all I can think of is shimming the suspension more. What should I tune next to get more stability in the straights?

I run a HW1060, BZ, a 26T Tamiya hardened pinion, and 2S Lipo. This is the only Tamiya car I own with this tall gear/brushed motor setup that does not run a hot motor or ESC. I am amazed at the torque, top speed, and smooth handling. Running a 3s lipo with stock suspension setup puts the handling at slightly unmanageable, so I stick with 2s. As others have mentioned, the ESC fits.

Hello All, Not sure whether to post this here on in a new thread. I just finished building my M07 concept car. I really enjoyed the build and it is completely different driving experience than an M05. I can see the potential in the car. I am experiencing quite a bit oversteer in the corners and torque steer on acceleration. The car darts pretty hard on acceleration and spins out off power entering a corner . My goal is to make the car drive much more neutral. I've read multiple threads here and on other forums, but can't seem to get a straight answer. Here are the build notes: 225 Medium chassis configuration. Stock gearbox with stock differential and kit included oil 22T pinion Tamiya 23T Sport Tuned Motor 4200 2s Lipo HW 1060 Brushed ESC Hop Up front Sway Bar - Blue (hard) Hop Up rear Sway Bar - Red (soft) Front CVAs - 2 piston Tamiya - Pink (hard) #800 Damper oil - default shock spacers, hard springs Rear CVAs - 3 piston Tamiya - Green (medium) #500 Damper Oil - default shock spacers, soft springs Front tires - 60D hard with hard foam inserts Rear tires - 60D soft with soft foam inserts Droop adjustments - none - all the droop screws in place, but I have yet to set them - however it looks like the setup has about 1 - 2mm more droop in the rear. Rear Toe-in - 3.2 degrees per kit instructions Front Toe-in - per instructions (seems neutral from what I can tell) Camber - per instructions (seems neutral from what I can tell) Driving conditions - Asphalt (street) 35 - 37F or 0 - 2C This is the same approach I took with my M05 and it seemed to work. What should I adjust first, second, third, etc.

BBX…from my experience over last 35 years, by far the most innovative, fun, controllable chassis Tamiya has produced in recent memory. A complete departure from typical Tamiya 2WD experiences. A true joy to run. i picked up the TA-08R. There is no club racing in Raleigh, NC that I know of. So, I’ll just build it out of curiosity as all I’ve ever owned on road are TT-01/2 and an M0-5. i have a Terra Scorcher kit, but have not built it due to an overload of vintage runners.