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Jonny Retro

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  1. Just arrived - very pleased with it & would definitely buy from Grumpy pants again Not sure what I'm going to do with it, but it probably won't be boxart
  2. Search for Graupner G2 connectors, e.g. http://www.componentshop.co.uk/leads-and-connectors/connectors/graupner-g2
  3. You've got the black servo horn like bit with the hex fitting that goes on the end of the steering shaft (part K5)? I'd guess so, as it being permanently attached makes it hard for former owners to lose ... The steering servo (once it's taped on to the speed control servo, which is in turn fixed to the "switch stay" (aluminium bracket), which is screwed to the chassis tub) should be the correct height & position so the output shaft of the servo lines up with the middle of the steering shaft. The servo just needs a regular horn, cut down to a single arm. The "pin" you describe is an M2 internally threaded, 3mm O/D, 3mm long collar, fixed on with an M2 screw through (usually) the 3rd hole down in the arm. Finding a spare original is downright impossible & I don't know of any alternatives; I made some by turning down M2 brass acorn (dome) nuts (e.g. http://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk/content/m20-acorn-hex-nuts-brass-10). A tiny "standoff" might be an alternative startign point.
  4. Top job - I've been admiring your work for some time
  5. Compared to TS paints (for hard bodies), it's more _different_ than better or worse - Humbrol spray is a bit lighter on pigment but comes out at a bit higher pressure (which personally I like), it's a bit more susceptible to bloom, and even on a good day the colours are a bit more muted than Tamiya PS, and more satin than gloss (that may or not be a good thing depending on what you're painting). Adhesion, possibly not quite as good. Compared to PS paints (on lexan) though, that's a different matter - Humbrol black seemed to bond quite well, white not so much, red & dark blue wasn't too hot, orange was laughable. I know being able to use the paint on both types of body is attractive, as is the availability from LHSs, but Tamiya PS paint is far, far the better in terms of "bite".
  6. If South Cambs (5 mins off the A11/A1307 junction) is an option for you then I'd be happy to take it on - PM me if you want to discuss
  7. There's always going to be some oddities and/or overlap, and nothing is set in stone, but in general, a Mk.III Techniplus TX & AS-2 servos are not a natural match for the Willy M38 - or even for each other, TBH. Two AS-2 servos (as far as I can work out) were usually sold (along with a single AS-3) with the AP-427 TX & ARA-427 RX as a radio set for the Tamiya 3-speeds. For a very early SWB Wild Willy M38, a Mk.1 set (AP-227 TX, ARA-227 RX, ASA-227 or AS-1 servos) might be appropriate, but for most (and all LWB M38s) a Mk.II set (AP-227 Mk.II (aka ATB-227) TX, ARB-227 RX & ASA-227 (or AS-1 or AS-1S) servos is going to be most "correct". Mk.II sets are probably going to be more plentiful (and have a greater chance of still working) than Mk.I sets too. If you want to go with Futaba instead, I think the "Medallion 2" set would probably be most period correct, I can probably find the servo/RX model #s if you really need them.
  8. Pretty sure it was someone on here that recommended Pacer Formula '560' Canopy Glue, set time is 24+ hours but it works very well. You only need a tiny bead so 4 quid + plus post it wasn't great value, but only the best is good enough for my Willy.
  9. Total hooey. A set of three 59ml bottles lasted longer than I expected & still cost about 12 GBP posted, a set of three 237ml bottles are 21 GBP. Autoglym cutting paste (pink label), polish (red label) & a fine wax can also substitute, as carry any number of others. I wouldn't recommend T-cut due to the solvent.
  10. I thought "what's he talking about, it was a Manta Ray". We were both right - http://tamiyabase.com/blog/technical/143-restoring-plastic.html
  11. Blackfoot is 10T 0.8mod, but it's a long one so you're pretty much tied into using the brass Tamiya part (3505014). Stadium Blizter is a 13T 0.8mod. 0.8mod is close enough to 32dp to be interchangeable, the outside diameter of any gear with the same number of teeth will be the same. Camper bus is 18T "AV" - 0.6 mod. 48dp gears will mesh with 0.6 mod, but the ouside diameter of a 48dp gear is much smaller for the same number of teeth, i.e. a 18T 48dp pinion will be no good for that car.
  12. Fair comment There's more info at http://www.tamiyabase.com/Forum/38-Scratch-builds-paint-body-shop/3996-Scratch-building-scale-accessories-weathering.html#3996 if you're interested.
  13. I've done "proper" waterproofing - thick balloons, sealant, zip ties - in the hope it would be permanent, but TBH it's more trouble than it's worth. Inevitably you end up sealing some air in there, and the moisture in it condenses out on the electronics ... now I just go for a "ghetto" job as & when it's needed - pop the RX & ESC in ziplock bags, ziptie them closed & duct tape them to the chassis .... then rip the whole lot off & let the bits breathe again once you're done.
  14. That's some really ambitious & spectacular work I don't think it would be my choice to hang the motor right out the front - not that I'm likely to take on a project like this - but nothing says "LOOk! LOOK! I'm a FRONT WHEEL DRIVE BUGGY!" like having the motor right out the front I did notice the characters on the right rear arm though - sorry !
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