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About Sammo

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  • Birthday 03/05/1986

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  • Location
    Epsom, Surrey

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  1. Sooooo, I’ve been contemplating modifying my Group C chassis to fit a touring car body to it, however I was also aware that it was easier to modify an F103GT to achieve the required wheelbase. I just couldn’t justify the cost of buying a kit. Anyway I eventually had a word with myself and bought the kit
  2. I’ve got a few R/C bits on eBay at the moment. Some Tamiya and some not. Have a look https://ebay.co.uk/usr/sammo12345
  3. I can buy a shorter T Bar for the F103GT to bring it down to around 250mm. The body I’m fitting is 251mm wheelbase which would make it near perfect.
  4. Evening, Now I’ve actually been hankering after an F103GT to mount a touring car body on to but just can’t justify the £160ish to buy a kit. However this evening I was having a look through my “project” chassis pile and found a Group C chassis that I forgot I had! I know in their shortest factory wheelbase they’re 260mm but does anyone know if there’s a way of getting it down to 250mm so I can fit the body I’ve got in mind? I know it’s not ideal when I really want an F103GT but needs must and all that! Cheers, Sammo
  5. Today I won a BNIB F103GT chassis kit on eBay. I got it for a good price including the postage from Australia to the UK. A few hours after winning it I got a message from the seller saying they’d gone to post it and the postage was 3x as much as they’d quoted on eBay and that they wouldn’t be able to send it I looked into a few options myself including getting a friend of a friend who’s currently in Australia to bring it back with him in a few weeks time. However the seller then messaged me again saying it was all too expensive and they were going to refund me. Five minutes later I was refunded! I’m not a happy bunny at all about this.
  6. Popped to the local car boot this morning with my Daughter for a wander about. Spotted this and kept it in mind then at the end wandered back to see if it was still there. It was and they wanted £5 for it Never one to pay the asking price I offered £3 and the deal was done Its a Ripmax Jackal. A little 1/18 scale buggy thing. It needs a new front shock mount and I need to find a battery that will fit but I reckon my Daughter will quite enjoy it
  7. Nothing recently. Work has taken over my life in the last few months so I’ve barely had time to scratch my ******* let alone build anything Once life is back to normal I’ll be back on it though
  8. I’ll take this. PM me your PayPal details 👍🏼
  9. Ok, so yesterday I decided to have a go at fitting the Tech Racing Rear Stabiliser Kit that I bought from @Juls1 very recently At the last update the rear of the FF01 was looking like this; Although this worked the negative camber was quite severe plus the angle of the rear tie rods was causing movement in the rear wheels. I was hoping the Stabiliser kit would sort this out. I forgot to take a picture of the complete kit, however here’s the label And the appalling instructions! Aside from the fact they’re in a language I don’t speak I also reckon that the bottom half is missing Anyway, I cracked on and pretty quickly figured out what went where. I also found a couple of pictures online of this kit fitted which helped a lot. Annoyingly it soon became apparent that to fit this you had to relocate the rear shocks, otherwise they would foul the Stabiliser bars. Seeing as I don’t have the materials to fabricate new shock mounts I thought I’d at least use the rear tie rods and brace bar from the kit until I can sort out something for the bars Annoyingly most of the screws had pretty much welded themselves into the rear shock tower. It was a cheap Chinese part with badly cut threads in every hole. I ended up stripping the heads off a couple of screws so decided to cut my losses and replace it with the original plastic rear shock tower. With the plastic shock tower fitted I got on with building the rear tie rods and getting them and the brace bar fitted. Amazingly just by having those bits fitted it’s eliminated a lot of the movement from the rear wheels which is great. The tie rods being the correct length have also meant I could calm the negative camber down a bit! Once that lot was fitted I made up some adjustable tie rods for the front using leftovers. With all that done I’m now pretty much satisfied with the chassis so it’s time to start getting the electrics in ready for a test run. The Motor has been fitted for quite a while so I thought I’d solder some terminals onto it. Then I slipped on the extension cables. By now it was bed time so I refitted the body to make sure nothing had changed (which it hadn’t). So that’s the end of another productive day. Next is to fit the ESC, buy some 3S battery packs and take it for a shake down run
  10. They did indeed. Thanks for sending them so quickly
  11. Blimey, it’s been a while since I updated this thread! I haven’t done anything to this car for ages. A serious lack of funds, having to take on a second job and general lack of motivation have meant it’s been sat on my desk gathering dust for months! Thankfully I had a day off work today. The plan was to do things to my actual car, however it started to pour with rain after a few hours so I had to come indoors and find something to do instead. I decided it was the FF01’s turn to have some more work carried out
  12. I’ll get the shell out of the box and take a picture later. It’s not the best but I’ve definitely seen worse.
  13. A few weeks ago I picked up this FF02 to add to the collection. It was very cheap and well worth the hours drive to collect it Anyway, I forgot to take a picture of it so here’s the box. I decided to strip it down earlier today because in all honesty it was well manky! With every screw I removed more dirt and stones fell out With the two chassis halves apart I found the gears had been stripped. Luckily I have plenty of brand new gear sets for the early M chassis cars which also includes the FF02 With a new gear set fitted it was starting to look a bit better already. The previous owner (who’d owned it from new) had left the original plastic bearings fitted. That’s all well and good but he’d fried one of them so badly it had also melted a front wheel hex to the point I couldn’t get the wheel off! Cue lots of levering and trying not to damage the wheel. Unfortunately it wasn’t coming off so brute force was required which has knackered the wheel! After replacing all the knackered plastic bearings with metal bearings I had a rummage and found another set of wheels to chuck on for now. They came on a rolling chassis I bought and they look terrible That’s it for today. It’s gone back in the box and I’ll have a think about what to do with it
  14. Afternoon, I’ve been going through my piles of NOS parts and other bits and decided to clear out some of it. Im located in Epsom, Surrey, KT19 UK. All prices include UK postage. I’m happy to post abroad but the buyer will need to pay the full postage costs. 1. Tamiya Mercedes SLK Body Set - 50756 - £45 posted. This body set has been cut and painted. The stickers have been stuck and it’s been a shelf Queen for the last few months. It comes in the original Tamiya body set box with the remaining stickers, Tamiya postcard and the door mirrors. 2. Acoms Techniplus AP-201 2 Channel Radio Control System With Receiver, Servos & Crystals - £45 posted. This is a complete system which is boxed, however it is used. It is all in good working condition, however it all may have sign of use. Included is the transmitter, receiver, two servos and Orange Band 3 crystals. 3. Riko Power Mains Fast & Slow Charger - £16 posted. I’ve owned this for a very long time but since moving over to Lipo it’s not required. It’s in good working condition and comes in the original box. 4. Tamiya Ni-Cd 1400NP Battery Pack - £10 posted. This came with a used kit I bought recently. The previous owner told me it was working, however I don’t have anything running Tamiya plugs so haven’t been able to test it. 5. Tamiya Ni-Cd 1400SP Battery Pack - £10 posted. Another battery pack that came with a used kit. Again I have been told it is a working pack but is untested by me. 6. Tamiya 9465177 Original Midnight Pumpkin/Lunchbox Screw Bag C - £2.99 posted (6 available) 7. Tamiya 9465281 Original Avante Screw Bag D - £ I honestly don’t know what to price this at so I’m open to offers. I’ve googled the part number and can’t find another for sale across the globe. 8. Tamiya M-Chassis Bushing Set Hop-Up - 53236 - £9.99 posted. 9. Tamiya M-Chassis 4x65mm Aluminium Screw (5 Pcs.) - 53234 - £15.00 posted. 10. Tamiya M-Chassis D Parts - 50654 - £20.00 posted. 11. Tamiya M-Chassis Spare Gear Set - 50631 - £8.99 posted (5 available) 12. Tamiya 1/10 One Piece Wide Mesh Wheels (1 pair) - 53229 - £19.99 posted. The wheels have slightly yellowed due to being displayed in the sun, however you should be able to dye or bleach them white again quite easily. 13. Tamiya 1/10 Opel Calibra Wheels (1 pair) - 50634 - £9.99 posted. The wheels have slightly yellowed due to being displayed in the sun, however you should be able to dye or bleach them white again quite easily. 14. Tamiya 1/10 One Piece Wide Racing Spoke Wheels (1 pair) - 53233 - 7.99 posted (2 pairs available) The wheels have slightly yellowed due to being displayed in the sun, however you should be able to dye or bleach them white again quite easily. 15. Tamiya M-Medium Chassis A Parts (Chassis/Frame) - 50716 - £30 posted (3 available) That’s everything for now. If I come across anything else I’ll add it. Of course I am open to sensible offers on everything Cheers, Sammo
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