casethejoint

Hi all, Just been continuing a resto job on a Sand Rover and noticed that the filler I'm using (Plasto by Revell) is eating into the Enamel based primer (cured for 2 weeks). Anyone got a brand that doesn't do that ? Thanks!

That was maybe a bit too easy.... I'll be building one. And running it.

Where do you pre-order ?

Pretty rare. Let me know if you want to sell it

Totally agree. I'd love to see the SS re-released on this chassis and then a completely new SRB bodyshell. That would be fantastic (for me, as an old-skool fan).

I'm absolutely gutted that I've spent about £200 in bits on eBay over the last couple of weeks! Looks fabulous. Enables me to finish off my other partially complete SRB's without spending a fortune. Any news yet on whether or not this will be a limited edition ?

Fair enough, I take your point. I suppose many of us had to run them on-road, and whilst not what they were designed for, it's part of the nostalgic experience. My first 10 seconds of owning one resulted in a full speed in reverse crash into a kerb, and I really want to repeat that experience and be able to buy a replacement rear bumper! I'll be buying 3 or 4 of them with or without a diff Who cares eh? The Rough Rider is back!

Thanks for the input guys - I guess I'll put the spray can down and step away from it

I think because a lot of us that had the originals upgraded to a diff. Totally agree with you - on the sand dunes, and in fairness that's what these are designed for, the last thing you want is a diff. But we don't all live within striking distance of a beach. I don't really mind either way - in the event of a re-release someone else will release an after-market diff, so we're covered either way. But I think it would be a sensible design option to have either a lockable diff, or the option of either in the kit. I can see a huge market opening up for vintage buggy racing. Quite a lot already doing that and for which a diff is critical.

I tried that once and the result was a disaster - the paint peeled off when masking up. It didn't seem to stick to the primer. I wouldn't recommend it. I've used regular 1:1 car spray paints on a hard shell and they work fine. There are also other modelling paint ranges so you're not just limited to Tamiya.

I'm in the middle of a Monster beetle shelled SS project and main aim of it is to get some practice at doing the body painting as I have my original 1981 SS to restore and want some practice in before I tackle it. I've been looking through the Scorchers in the showrooms here and some of you have done the most incredible job with the black window rubbers. Any tips? By hand/brush or masking ? Thanks!

Then presumably there can't be any licensing issues, so a SS re-re would be in the bag ?

There were a ton of Blitzer/Monster beetle shells on eBay a month or so back. I wonder if someone knows something.... ? I picked up a couple, so I'm in good stock

Just a thought - if this isn't a wind up you have to consider that they really couldn't re-re the Rough Rider and not do the Sand Scorcher. At least parts availability for SRB's will be back on track, even if no SS. Do you think they put a diff. in it this time ?

Wow, that would really be something. Here's crossing fingers.....

I don't think they're any more reliable personally, but they definitely handle a higher current throughput by offering less resistance, which means a bit more efficiency and they're not likely to melt. Definitely a worthy upgrade.

If these are limited edition, what is the best way to make sure you get one? Can you pre-order from the LHS ?

If you look at where the white residue is on the photo you'll see where the glue/weld/whatever is on the seams. It isn't all the way around. I started with the sharp knife right next to one of the holes which are at opposite corners on the casing. Once I had a slit from that, I used a blunt knife to gently leverage the thing apart. Worked much better than I expected - pretty clean break all the way around. Good luck with yours!

A strategically placed sharp nice and push through, followed by blunt knife slowly working my way around did the trick nicely with very little damage (and what there is will clean up). Replacing the cells and gluing back together should be easy (will probably go for 2400 mAh Ni-Mh as they're now pretty cheap).

Absolutely awesome, and makes for a great read and picture series. Thanks for taking the time to post it all! Can't believe I missed this thread back in February - glad it got bumped!! In terms of parts you're after, what do you need?

No, same error.

I guess we'll see.

There's a risk this thread will turn into a bid war and the best place to have that is on eBay. As a target to set expectations I would suggest something around the £200 mark for the Hilux and something around the £160 mark for the Scorcher. But just get them on eBay without a Buy It Now price - you never know who is in the market for something. You may exceed those numbers substantially. With a bit of work the Hilux in particular is valuable.

No, I don't have one myself. I'm not sure I would buy one - would prefer to leave it to a professional. Like most tools there's probably a knack to it

Seems you get that from time to time. A lot of SRB stuff on there too. Agreed. Prices do appear to be dropping as a result of increased supply (I guess people also have less money to throw at this stuff). That seems to be the case with the used (non NIB) whole cars and bits. The very rare stuff (NIB Scorchers, Black Porsche etc) appears to me completely unaffected and prices still slowly rising. The NIB Black Porsche on there last week had a BIN price of £5k (anyone know what it went for?).