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casethejoint

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Posts posted by casethejoint


  1. You're all right - glow ignitor(s) were the issue - all 4 of them!

    Made my own by replacing the battery on one and bingo - all good, and now I'm behaving noisy and smelly - awesome :)

    Buggy is currently stalling out under higher throttle - think it's maybe a bit lean. Going to richen up the HSN and have another go tomorrow.

    • Like 1

  2. Hi All,

    I'm normally an electric guy, but the hot weather for some reason has made me want to blow the dust off my old Ansman Nitro 1/8th buggy from about 2002.

    It's in good order - last run maybe 2-3 years ago. It has a glow plug in it, and I had 3 which were unopened until today, bought new about 10 years ago plugs. 

    None of them work (have tried with 3 different igniters, all of which are good and showing 1.2v+).

    They all have continuity, and show a DC resistance of 0.01 ohms - which sounds low to me, but would draw a heck of a current you'd expect to glow hot. They don't even get mildly warm.

    Do they normally go bad over time? I've ordered some new ones just to be certain, but would be good to get your experience of what might be wrong.


  3. Quote

    I use Tamiya’s masking tape 

    Oh, ps - yeah there is nothing that beats Tamiya tape in my experience. Both for lack of bleed and in terms of not reacting with any paints we typically use (poly/acrylic etc).

    I tried to use decorators masking tape once and learned the hard way that it doesn't play nice with Polyurethane...


  4. Quote

    Perhaps your tape is narrow enough to make a nice seal.  

    Thanks - yes, I use the 2mm tape for all the initial run to create the lines and bends. That gives me the good edge you need. Bit clearer how it started maybe on the right of this pic:-

    53753C5F-DD83-4F5D-8824-40A30B1DAFD7_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.94ddec55dffc30b21b90b5c3b7d7ab01.jpeg


    Then build up with 3mm and then finish it with 10mm.

    Absolute pain to do and I hate it, but it sure is rewarding when it's done :)

     

    • Like 8

  5. Quote

    I wish someone would design a 3D printed battery housing

    That would be pretty cool. Does anyone do the build file making part for cash? Maybe some things we could all chip in to, to get the files done so we could download and go get them printed.

    I don't mind chipping in to the cost but I don't have the skill set to do the files.

     


  6. Enjoying watching this resurrection. Top notch job - well done sir!

    Love the military theme too - totally works on this buggy.

    Oh, ps:-

    Quote

     I made an aluminium rear bumper and fitted an SRB whip ariel for effect 

    ... nice touch that, looks really good.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  7. I finally rebuilt my old Tamiya 6v pack today. The old cells, after 35+ years, were still holding around 180mAh of charge. Amazing really, but time for a refresh.

    Found some super-cheap Sub-C NiCads (£7 for 6, delivered). For that price I didn't bother going NiMH.

    It is upgraded though, from 1200mAh to 1800mAh - woohoo, feel the power.

    Modern sub-c are slightly bigger than the old ones - but they do fit you just need to remove the spacing tabs inside the case which is pretty easy with a pair of nippers.

    Will drop into the Sand Rover later in the week and take it for a spin.

    14058388-3607-4726-B835-40F151534110_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.ec3ed881a6a7a91f11db68dff66c2724.jpeg8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.f8dc17eb4e9b8e1a5173b485c4a64f04.jpegC251B8EE-2CC0-4416-ABFC-865B8178DA57_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.075d282c2644f91d5f10766818e30676.jpeg

    8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_201_a.heic 8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_201_a.heic 8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_201_a.heic

    • Like 5

  8. Honestly the best thing I learned (from the late great Rad22) was to use MicroMesh for rubbing down in between coats (not regular wet and dry - it cuts way too fast and unevenly for model use).

    Quote

    There is a slight texture to the paint, you can see it where the light is hitting the shell in the pic below. 

    It's a non-issue but I would recommend not glossing straight over it and instead cut it back slightly with MicroMesh. You can get it in a selection of grades for a few quid on eBay. Start with maybe 4000 grit with soapy water and just knock back the surface slightly so that to the touch it's a little less bumpy (take the very tops of the bumps off basically - all you need is to flatten it very slightly). Then start clear coating, with a good 3 days in between coats and 4000 grit in between. After three clear coats start with 4000 grit and work your way up through all the grits until it has the shine you want. I usually stop around 8000/10000 or so because going further it starts to look like glass and amazing but unrealistic.

    99.9% of a great finish is basically patience. It's really time consuming, especially on large or detailed models, but it's actually quite easy. And really rewarding.

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