casethejoint
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Posts posted by casethejoint
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Perhaps your tape is narrow enough to make a nice seal.
Thanks - yes, I use the 2mm tape for all the initial run to create the lines and bends. That gives me the good edge you need. Bit clearer how it started maybe on the right of this pic:-
Then build up with 3mm and then finish it with 10mm.Absolute pain to do and I hate it, but it sure is rewarding when it's done
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Hate this job... been putting it off for 2 years, but today was the day :)
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Beautiful !
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51 in 3 weeks time
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I'd like to see some vintage stuff - some of the prettiest cars ever made.
'57 Corvette anyone?
Or how about a D-Type?
... and pretty much anything with wire wheels - love to see some nicely done scale wire wheels
How about a 356?
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if not, you may have to wait a day or two for them to show up again.
Yep, complete with organic threadlock.
Congrats @Nikko85
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> I wish someone would design a 3D printed battery housing
That would be pretty cool. Does anyone do the build file making part for cash? Maybe some things we could all chip in to, to get the files done so we could download and go get them printed.
I don't mind chipping in to the cost but I don't have the skill set to do the files.
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Enjoying watching this resurrection. Top notch job - well done sir!
Love the military theme too - totally works on this buggy.
Oh, ps:-
QuoteI made an aluminium rear bumper and fitted an SRB whip ariel for effect
... nice touch that, looks really good.
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I finally rebuilt my old Tamiya 6v pack today. The old cells, after 35+ years, were still holding around 180mAh of charge. Amazing really, but time for a refresh.
Found some super-cheap Sub-C NiCads (£7 for 6, delivered). For that price I didn't bother going NiMH.
It is upgraded though, from 1200mAh to 1800mAh - woohoo, feel the power.
Modern sub-c are slightly bigger than the old ones - but they do fit you just need to remove the spacing tabs inside the case which is pretty easy with a pair of nippers.
Will drop into the Sand Rover later in the week and take it for a spin.
8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_201_a.heic 8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_201_a.heic 8B3F5805-D53E-4D87-9F17-CA3F8FF78271_1_201_a.heic
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Lovely!
If you can paint/re-paint the Good-Year tire lettering that will really make it pop.
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Thanks for pinning this - I'd missed it. What sad news. I didn't know him personally but interacted with him on here a few times. Nice guy.
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No I would leave it now you've done the stickers - maybe get some MicroMesh for next time if you fancy doing another hard shell, it really is the secret
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Honestly the best thing I learned (from the late great Rad22) was to use MicroMesh for rubbing down in between coats (not regular wet and dry - it cuts way too fast and unevenly for model use).
QuoteThere is a slight texture to the paint, you can see it where the light is hitting the shell in the pic below.
It's a non-issue but I would recommend not glossing straight over it and instead cut it back slightly with MicroMesh. You can get it in a selection of grades for a few quid on eBay. Start with maybe 4000 grit with soapy water and just knock back the surface slightly so that to the touch it's a little less bumpy (take the very tops of the bumps off basically - all you need is to flatten it very slightly). Then start clear coating, with a good 3 days in between coats and 4000 grit in between. After three clear coats start with 4000 grit and work your way up through all the grits until it has the shine you want. I usually stop around 8000/10000 or so because going further it starts to look like glass and amazing but unrealistic.
99.9% of a great finish is basically patience. It's really time consuming, especially on large or detailed models, but it's actually quite easy. And really rewarding.
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(yeah, I know...)
LOL. We've all been there and anyone here who says they haven't is either lying or doesn't own a dishwasher. Fact.
I'm another fan of the ultrasonic cleaner - and as mentioned above, a diluted dose of degreaser works wonders. I've done all kinds of bits and never had an issue with damaging anything - I think they're pretty gentle and it's far more likely a chemical reaction that's causing damage.
It's clever how they work - the sonic waves cause tiny air bubbles to form on hard surfaces (so in between the surface of your part and the dirt) and the bubbles basically lift the dirt off. Hard to imagine anything more gentle than that.
My cheap ultrasonic (I think I paid £20 for it new a few years ago) and my barrel polisher are the two things I rely on the most for vintage restorations.
We also do my wifes jewellery in the ultrasonic FWIW and that always comes out amazing (just with water).
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Am I wrong or all of the 380-powered cars had no differential?
Weren't the early Tamiya on-road RC cars 380 powered with a diff ?
There's also a 380 Sport Tuned - I have one in my Sand Rover:-
I have no idea what the spec is on it, but it must be faster because it has a black sticker on it, right?
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Lovely F150 and nicely built too
I have several of these AP-35s (a few years ago there were plenty on eBay being sold for model trains - I guess they were used for those too, with PCM modulation being sent down the rails maybe?). Back in 1983 it was a big upgrade on the mechanical ESC that came with SRBs and there weren't that many other options.
The transistor will fry if even a stock 540 motor if it's under too much load with 7.2v, so I think under-powering it is a good idea. You can still buy the transistors thankfully - plentiful supply on eBay.
I now have as my main SRB runner a F150 same as yours but I opened up the Acoms receiver case and sneakily stuck a 2.4ghz digital RX inside the case, so it looks like a regular vintage Acoms but actually all modern no-glitch digital. If you look closely at the pic you'll see the two antennas poking out the antenna wire hole.
I run this with a 6.6v (I think) LiFE battery and a vintage black 540SD. Lots of fun - totally vintage but the modern Rx makes a big difference to my confidence that it's not going to careering off on its own.
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It sounds like the servo horn was put on without the servo having first been centered.
Unscrew the retaining screw, take the servo horn off, switch everything on and center everything, then replace the horn.
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Hey Erich,
I found some stuff that might be useful.
I have a set of re-re decals which has an unused licence plate (not sure if this is the same plate as the original 1980 SR - might not be - STOLEN I think was the original - but I guess at least it is genuine Tamiya).
And I have loads of original little Tamiya round head single slot screws, which are correct for the windshield (they're original vintage Tamiya - from SRB wheels probably) other than they are too long. The SR windshield are shorter - but they are the right thing and I think with a little care and a hacksaw they can be cut so size.
Happy to send to you if you want to have a go.....
They are identical, just longer (need to be cut approx. in half):-
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> By the way, now that I am replying to you I wanted to ask if you will show more pictures of the Sand Scorcher? I really loved what you did narrowing the rear axles!
Like so many of my projects unfortunately it kind of got paused where it was due to work, family etc commitments. I will post some more pics when I actually manage to progress it though. You asking me has kind of got me wanting to get it back out on the bench...
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I don't blame you - I don't run mine either. I took it for a lap around the lounge once and then put it back on the shelf. Problem with these vintage buggies is one crash and they're in a million pieces. With 30+ hours sometimes going into restoring, the emotional investment is too much to risk
There is no servo saver - just a servo horn. The steering arms are just bent rod - which basically is the servo saver (they have a bit of spring in them). Actually quite innovative really - designed to a price.
I'll have a look for some of those small screws - I'm pretty sure I have about a thousand of them
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PS - I remember now filling in those front mount screw holes (so no need for the "Sand Rover" decal that normally covers them). Definitely looks better like that. I didn't do mine and wish I had now.
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Whoop, good to see the lights got stickers - looks great!
> Now I'm only missing the tiny windshield screws
I believe these are the same as vintage SRB front wheel screws. You know the little round head slot screw things? I might have some - will take a look. What else is needed to get it running? I think we need to see it running
> Hi, this is all a bit late, but the pinion issue on to the 380 motor is resolved by adding some brass tube onto the motors spindle and then put the pinion on, tightened by a grub screw.
In desperation in the past I've had success by cutting a bit of tube from the ink tube of a Bic biro. I seem to remember it being a perfect fit....
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Stunning. Better. late than never
I'm also about 2 years behind on mine
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Wheelbase-wise, at least, it's almost perfect scale with the Blazer (1/9.4 v 1/9.6) -
Really interesting. So, as you say, both pretty much on scale actually. I guess the 4x4s were just much bigger vehicles (and maybe the scale effect amplifies this visually in some way).
QuoteDo they use the same driver head?
No - the 4x4 driver figures are significantly bigger.
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So, What Have You Done Today?
in General discussions
Posted
Oh, ps - yeah there is nothing that beats Tamiya tape in my experience. Both for lack of bleed and in terms of not reacting with any paints we typically use (poly/acrylic etc).
I tried to use decorators masking tape once and learned the hard way that it doesn't play nice with Polyurethane...