[Srb Thorpe Gear Diff]

For goodness sake please do not use it with anything else than the stock motor

OK, thanks for the tip. Don't worry, I have no intention of wrecking it - the refurb'd Scorcher is not likely to be run anyway - I have other cars to bash around with. This Scorcher is really just sentimental as I've owned it for 25 years.

The diff. was an upgrade I bought a couple of years after buying the car to try and fix that terrible understeer. I immediately disassembled it because at that time (aged 14) I had no idea how such things worked (and a curious mind!). For what it's worth, looking at the thread linked to above regarding taking it apart, mine just pulled apart - no tools required. I remember doing that and being seriously impressed with the quality of engineering.

I bought a few hop up parts for the Scorcher around that time - a steel bumper and stainless steel UJ's from Green Models (or whatever he was called back then), Acoms electronic speed control (that kept burning out transistors on a farily regular basis). A few other bits (actually, looking back it was quite a tricked out car given that I was never a racer).

What this thread has convinced me to do is to restore the Scorcher complete with the period hop-ups. Originally I thought I'd restore it to box stock which was, of course, how I originally built it. But really these upgraded parts are all part of the cars history (and mine too) and should rightfully stay in it.

[Srb Thorpe Gear Diff]

Hi Terry,

Nodis

That's the one! (same as in your link pics).

Thanks for letting me know what it is. I think I probably will keep it. Sentimental value really (did a lot of paper-rounds to pay for it!).

[Srb Thorpe Gear Diff]

Sorry - wasn't my intention to create a bidding thread

No chance that I'll be digging it up this side of Xmas and in any event I might end up keeping it. I paid 25 for it in 1985 as I recall and that was quite a lot of money back then. I also have the original Scorcher that I fitted to, so may restore the whole thing with the ball diff.

Was really just curious as to value.

Thanks!

[Srb Thorpe Gear Diff]

Thanks Twisty. Might take me an hour or so to dig it up though, so I'll leave it until the New Year when I have to go up there anyway.

[Srb Thorpe Gear Diff]

I remember buying one in about 1985. I'm pretty sure it's Thorpe looking at their ball diff - same construction and all brass (three cross-head screws holding it together), but mine was gears and not ball.

Worth digging out of the attic ? I seem to remember it's in good nick and has ballraces actually press-fitted to it.

[What Ballraces For A Sand Rover]

Many thanks guys - that saves me a trip up a ladder

Appreciated.

[What Ballraces For A Sand Rover]

Hi all,

I recently put a Sand Rover in the attic (purchase from eBay) awaiting a restoration I have some time for in January.

Meant to take out the bearings to measure sizes before putting it up there but forgot.

Hoping someone can let me know what bearings I require to save me having to go back up there and dig it out and pull to bits.

Thanks!

[Idea For Plating Parts]

Not sure if this helps, but appears that the auto industry do this chemically rather than using paint (can't vouch for the authority of this page though):-

http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/eng99/eng99348.htm

[Modelling Putty To Repair/build Up Broken Lexan Shells?]

It's one of my pet hates.

Ooops, sorry

Thanks for the correction.

I don't know where this urban myth came from

I've thought that for many years. Possibly from a manufacturer other than Tamiya that does use ABS?

[Modelling Putty To Repair/build Up Broken Lexan Shells?]

ah so what are the old shells made of then?

The hard shells are usually some derivative of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, commonly referred to as "ABS".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene

The lexan being referred to is the thin clear stuff most modern models come with.

I'm not sure if the product would work on ABS. It might do, but it's a totally different material

[A Vintage Collection I'd Call 'great']

Does anyone know anything about the Mercedes Tentec in the pics ?

[Upgrading Old 380 Size Motors]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for that info.

I've seen 1:10 sized vehicles powered by the micro (1:18 scale) systems quite successfully, definitely more power than a 380 from a smaller lighter ESC/Motor combo.

Aha, I hadn't thought to look at the 1:18 scale motors. Presumably they use 380 size? I'd prefer to not have to change the mount (this is on a Sand Rover) so looking to retain 380 dimensions but pack a little more punch and runtime (not looking for excessive power or speed, just a performance boost).

Do the 1:18 and 1:16 models all use 380 sized motors, or are there any other designations I can look for that will be of same size?

I see the Teken Mini Rage 955 popping up quite cheap on eBay.

Many thanks.

[Upgrading Old 380 Size Motors]

Hi all,

Anyone upgraded a vintage Tamiya with a 380 size motor? I'm looking for a little more punch, and seeing some of the very low cost Speed 400 brushless motors (designed for planes) on eBay I was wondering if they're a suitable fit?

[Did Your Parent Buy You A Tamiya Kit As A Child?]

First post here, hello

I guess I had a priviledged background. Got a Sand Scorcher in Xmas 1979 (or may have been 1980). I still have it in the attic and it's on the list to restore at some point. Still runs but some of the parts are a bit rough.

That started a hobby for me that continued - I find building these kits very therapeutic (hardly ever get to actually run/drive them). I have 22 of them now - both new and vintage and mostly Tamiya.

Age 38 now. Glad to see plenty in this thread of same age group - I get badword sometimes from my other half for being somewhat childish with this stuff