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the part of the upright that goes into the ball joint of the lower suspension arm. Please refer to this Please note that there are two models - one that is designed to use with the kit standard drive cups; and the one which you just bought which requires smaller cup drives.

It’s the part of the upright that goes into the ball joint of the lower suspension arm. Please refer to this video:

😫 ouch! Definitely time to get that dust cover! Be sure to get foam inserts for those rally block tires as well.

Enjoy! That's the great thing about the TT02 chassis - plenty of opportunities to tweak it! I think I've done everything I can by way of upgrades and modifications with my TT02 and I'm really pleased with its performance, particularly as a rally car. I also own a XV01 chassis which is definitely more 'rally ready' out of the box. Both are cars are great fun to drive BTW - here's a another really good information resource for TT02 tuning tips: https://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/tamiya-tt02-guide-mods-tuning-and-tips.html

I forgot to mention, be careful with your suspension travel. There’s a point where too much can lead to binding drive shafts. An easy way to check this is to lift your car off the ground and use full throttle to see if there is any shuddering from the driveshafts. I had this problem with my TT02 rear driveshafts so I reduced my suspension travel until I got smooth operation.

A few suggestions to significantly improve your car’s steering performance and durability: 1. Place a 2-3 mm spacer between where the steering arm attaches to the steering upright. This should reduce some of the binding. 2. Replace the entire steering rack with either the Tamiya or Yeah Racing (YR) aluminium unit and use adjustable steering links with ball ends (I think the YR steering kit includes these parts). This will also enable you to adjust front toe-in/toe-out. 3. Replace the front dog bones with either Tamiya or YR CVD drive shafts. I use the Tamiya hop-up units but these also require the purchase of matching cup drives. The YR units use the kit standard cup drives.

Yes, I too wish that Tamiya re-issued the original Hotshot II, boxart included. It was the one car in the hotshot chassis series that I never had the pleasure of owning 😞

Can I suggest that you change your plug to Deans on your ESC instead of using an adapter. Much more efficient and secure connection than the Tamiya plug 😊

Either will work fine. Yes, lack of airflow can be a problem. I use an aluminium heat sink for the motor and a Yeah Racing aluminium motor mount to try and dissipate some of the heat generated by the motor. So far, so good. No overheating problems 😊

Not sure what you mean by “down stops”? I’m referring to ground clearance.

Nice work. I use 55mm 3Racing aluminium shocks on my TT02 rally (with upper mounting holes on suspension arms) and get 20mm ride height which I find is good enough for most of my off road adventures 😊 I suggest getting the Tamiya or Yeah Racing aluminium rear hubs (with 3 degree toe in) and trimming the lower shaft of the front steering hubs (note: there is great video from Mark Bryan RC on YouTube that shows you how to do this) as both of these mods will help you maximise ground clearance without fowling the drive shafts. I also highly recommend using the Tamiya TT02 dust cover or one from Kamtec (which I use) to protect the electronics and stop gravel from jamming up the steering and centre drive shaft. Happy rallying!