Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

539 Excellent


About LongRat

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wotton-under-Edge, UK
  • Interests
    CNC machining, model engineering, scratch builds, model engine building, RC car racing, model flying.

Recent Profile Visitors

2834 profile views
  1. +21 degrees of timing will be very noticeable over the same motor running at 0 degrees. You need to be sure though, that the electrical timing of the ESC is the same when running in sensorless and sensored mode, for the comparison to be meaningful.
  2. Yes it will perform as a zero timed motor. All sensor-equipped motors can be driven by sensorless control. Advantages of either type of control are often misrepresented I feel. Different sensorless commutation algorithms on different ESCs mean there is not one answer. The worst scenario with sensorless is a system which will barely start and is almost undrivable. The best sensorless control I have driven was as smooth as a decent sensored system. A couple of things to bear in mind: when sensorless, you are using the high power phase wires to transmit the rotor position signals, so it is really important these wires are as short as possible, and have equal, low resistance on all 3. For me this means never using any connectors, always direct soldering, and cutting my wires to the exact, minimum length between motor and ESC. That way, the really weak back EMF signals from a slowly turning motor are still seen cleanly at the ESC, which massively improves the low speed control and starting smoothness. The advantages of sensorless shouldn't be overlooked - more simplicity, more reliability with fewer wires, waterproof and a smaller motor for the same output power. This is why you won't see sensor based systems in any RC boats or planes any more.
  3. TS-50 can run in sensorless mode if no sensor is connected. That's all that is happening here. TBLE-04S doesn't have the ability to run sensorless motors.
  4. Switching the ESC might get you stopped in some emergency situations, so if it's something you are concerned with then go for it. My opinion is that these switches lead to a false sense of security that the car is 'off'. Mistakenly switching off but not disconnecting, with a LiPo connected (if you use one) is more hazard than adding the switch will mitigate. But that's my view.
  5. Yes. Switching either isn't worth it IMO. Too much risk for little return. Better to have no switches and simply unplug the battery.
  6. Pretty sure it was still dual bearing.
  7. In my tyre trawling I managed to find a 1/14 scale tractor truck tyre that I thought was a closer match to a real desert tyre used by these buggies. I have bought a whole load of tyres to check the look and feel, but this is the best so far, so it warranted a wheel to mount it. I'm very happy with the way it looks, I it would be just perfect if I could find a high profile rear tyre with maybe 5mm more diameter and I would be 100% happy. But good for now.
  8. Guys, I'll try to help but I haven't had Jamie's car for years now. I do have pictures that may shed some light on things, what I can say is that Jamie's car was a real Frankenstein's monster. There wasn't a lot of aesthetic finesse going on here, it was a true race car. The red hub carriers were completely manually ground away internally to allow for clearance, to the point where I don't think they would have taken a single light hit without breaking. I am not sure what the CVDs were but could have had custom or modified stub axles. I am not familiar with the OG Egress, and the Full Option kit was only able to be tested with a 2013 re-release. Kit #1 has been raced extensively and was the basis for the green light on the rest of the kits. Here are a few of the pictures I took of the original car.
  9. Anything with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) in it, like many oven cleaners, will do it. Keep it in for just long enough to remove the colouring, it will continue to etch the aluminium if you don't.
  10. Max W(out) is the maximum possible mechanical output power of that motor. It is achieved, according to the data, at an input current of 42A. That's what the statistic means. Below that current and above that current the output power will be less. The problem you will have running 540 motors (especially something like the TZ, which are pretty powerful) is that even if the average current drawn over a run is within the stated 'constant' current capability of the ESC, there will be significant spikes in excess of this and for reasonably long time periods. The max current rating of that ESC is probably taken from the theoretical book value of the FETs which could be correct only for literally milliseconds.
  11. I'll run them in some of my vintage cars. Might try one in my Losi XX. I'm making aluminium end bells for all of mine first.
  12. Ah, I have the lights but they snapped off. Need to fix that, looks better with them. Tyres are Lunch Box, much more stable handling with them.
  13. I just picked up 3 of these motors for £2.40 each on Hobbyking, insane. I have one already and have no complaints on the quality. I was surprised that they are also fitted with bearings too.
  • Create New...