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About LongRat

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  • Location
    Wotton-under-Edge, UK
  • Interests
    CNC machining, model engineering, scratch builds, model engine building, RC car racing, model flying.

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  1. It has a lot of mods. My intention with this was to keep it recognisable as a Hotshot, with the original chassis and front monoshock layout. It races pretty well, but ultimately loses to the Cat XLS and other Hotshot-based cars with upgraded chassis and conventional independent suspension, plus I only run brushed motors and 2" wheels as that's what I like. Changes: Front independent torsion bar suspension system plus monoshock. This is not an anti-roll bar despite how it looks New geometry CNC machined suspension arms, carbon fibre levers, Durango shock Custom steering set up using carbon low profile bell cranks Bump-steer elimination blocks outboard CNC hinge pin braces Rear - CNC tower, aluminium tower mounts and Pro-Line Powerstroke shocks There is a thread on it on Tamiyaclub, but most of the pics are dead now.
  2. Before you bin it, I suggest ripping off all the connectors and direct solder the ESC to the motor, with the shortest leads you can get away with. In my experience with many sensorless systems over the years, it makes a massive difference.
  3. I've never masked this stuff onto paint, only ever clean Lexan. So I can't help you there, sorry. I guess you need to do a test on some scrap first.
  4. I use masking liquid on every shell I do. I would never go back to tape, not even for a 2-colour design with a perfectly straight junction between them. Good masking liquid for RC (Fasmask, Bittydesign, Bob Dively) can be brushed on easily, I use 2 heavy coats applied with a 1" wide brush. The edges you get between colours is razor sharp. No tape can match it. For straight lines, just use a ruler and run your knife down it when you cut the mask. As straight as tape, never bleeds, and an even sharper line.
  5. Still loads of 2S2P out there - not always labelled as such though. Hobbyking's Turnigy Nanotech and Ultimate batts for example (although not all of them are). Also, plenty of 1S2P.
  6. Not as worrying as if it had been really difficult. IMO cases should resist heavy external compression and puncture but should rupture easily from internal pressure. To the OP, you may find 4 cells in there depending on the battery you have. There are lots of 2S2P packs out there. Then you'll really wonder what that balance lead is for...
  7. The voltage across a cell and the charge driven into it by the charger are extremely non-linear. This is the reason that so much more charge is contained within the cell for such a small voltage increase. You are on an almost horizontal part of the curve. With regards to storage charge, I hear some sources saying 50% of total charge is ideal, others 50% of total energy stored. Those are quite different, as each mAh of charge at the high end of the pack's voltage is carrying a lot more Joules of energy than each mAh when the pack is almost dead.
  8. I suggest opening it up yourself, usually when they seize solid it is because something magnetic has been sucked in and jammed the armature. If it needs rebuilding and you don't have the gear to do it, check out Igified RC on Facebook. He does a nice job.
  9. Yes you can just put the car body on and the wheels and off you go. The Asterion came with bearings but only dogbone driveshafts. The Chevy truck body will be nice on one of my stadium trucks but I'll be offloading the stickers for sure. Probably sell the wheels and tyres too.
  10. I'm building a rally car from an Asterion kit now. The suspension on the Asterion is not the long damper spec though. Even so, I think this is a cost effective route to go.
  11. I only use an alarm when running silver can in my sand scorcher. I've found that in anything with even mild power, the speed drop off is so severe when the battery gets towards the end that's it's completely obvious it's time to stop, and this is still well above safe voltage. Example, 8T brushless in Stampede, truck would barely move and LVC still above threshold.
  12. Thanks for noticing those small but essential features makes the time to design it all the more worthwhile! I'm really happy to see your slipper solution, please let us know how it performs long term especially slipping a bit. If it works well it would be a much easier solution to the problem for a lot of people. I haven't had a chance to run mine at all, no tracks open and no time or places within range of me to test it properly. That time will come.
  13. Definitely worth checking the crystals like Mad Ax suggested, the Tx and Rx crystals are NOT the same and the Tx one must not be plugged into the receiver or it won't work. I think the most likely problem is that the receiver has blown up due to seeing unregulated pack voltage through the 104 ESC.
  14. No you need the main battery connected, the ESC will not get any power to it without that. You just need to ensure this power isn't passed through to the receiver - that gets its power from the 4x AA pack. Without the main battery connected, you should still be able to move the steering servo though. If you can't do this, I suspect the receiver is toast.
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