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About LongRat

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  • Location
    Wotton-under-Edge, UK
  • Interests
    CNC machining, model engineering, scratch builds, model engine building, RC car racing, model flying.

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  1. Cheers Carmine. The remaining standard Tamiya parts left on this are all DT-02, originally this project was intended to be a long travel variant of that platform. To make it work properly it's going to end up being almost devoid of DT-02 items as well. There is nothing on here which has any compatibility with anything on a standard Grasshopper, aside from the wheels.
  2. Thank you, I'm going to update the web site soon with more project details but I tend to keep the parts for sale on Facebook, and sometimes eBay. Currently working on some custom one-off commissions but always happy to help with requests where I can.
  3. A drive dog that is compatible with my alloy wheels and some standard Tamiya rims. This area is part of what I am planning to change, to a portal style setup to get more ground clearance and reduce driveshaft angle.
  4. Going to make some tweaks after quite a hard bashing session, pretty happy for the first iteration though. Going to up the front travel and increase ground clearance all round.
  5. A motor can kill an ESC. Given that this is a silver can, that does run, that's pretty unlikely. Add to that, sounds like it is one of the China "ESC" black units, which are about as unreliable as any electronics I have ever come across. Most likely the ESC was a dud. I've bought a couple of cars with them in, both smoked within seconds of their first use, to be replaced with better units without further issue.
  6. Some under body pictures.
  7. Here's my take on what an unlimited Grasshopper should be, if it wasn't built down to a price and complexity budget for beginners as the standard car is. I've always wanted to build a Grasshopper that actually reflects the car on the box art. It is a long travel, trailing arm buggy, with a 6061 billet aluminium chassis as the core of the vehicle. Buckle up
  8. LiPo cells are completely, hermetically sealed. You cannot affect the chemistry by putting water on them. The only thing that could happen would be water bridging the connections outside the cell, causing a short. But rain water is not a great conductor, so it isn't going to be a high current even if it happened, and because we aren't talking long-term complete submersion this condition will only be transient if it happens at all. So in this case, I don't think there's anything to be concerned about. Certainly if there was, the fast electric boat guys would have to be thinking more carefully than you and I. Don't think that LiPos are zero hazard because this one issue may have been overblown on the internet though. RC cars are a harsh (possibly harshest) environment for LiPos and outside the designed usage window for these cells. While the chemistry may be similar to phone and laptop batteries, the usage conditions are massively more severe. On top of that, there are no internal safety devices in the batteries used in RC, where these are present in every other usage scenario for these cells including phones, laptops, e-mobility etc. Store them in the proper conditions, and be prepared for them to fail even if you never deviate from the accepted use guidelines and 'specs'.
  9. I applaud you for the perseverance in getting to the bottom of this. Whether it is the specs of the old UBEC or (I think more likely) some sort of fault with it, you have solved the issue. Most people would have given up, well done. This is especially good as your electronics are very nice, you don't see a lot of GM V12s now. Hope you have fun with it.
  10. CNC machined alloy version next to the kit part. I have several ready to ship, hit me a PM if you want one.
  11. You need the (-) wire from ESC to RX or the signal will have no ground. However just thinking this through, doing this might create a 'ground loop' between RX, UBEC and ESC. Many external BECs have ferrite rings on them - has yours? This is to suppress voltage spikes caused by rapid changes in current. Here's one of my Turnigy UBEC units with a ferrite ring as supplied.
  12. If your UBEC output voltage is sagging to under 1V under servo load, that is really bad. You tried a different servo? I can't imagine you would need over 5A unless the servo has a fault.
  13. Looks like you have an LRP Indy ESC. They have BEC. The clue here is that the TEU101 did not show the issue, this is because that ESC does NOT have a BEC circuit, it simply passes the main battery voltage straight to the receiver. The problem is being caused by the ESC's internal BEC circuit output voltage dipping when the ESC is under high load, causing a momentary brownout of the receiver and consequent uncontrolled servo behaviour. The solutions available - put a capacitor (like a glitch buster, not sure how big a capacitor you have tried already) in a spare receiver channel across the +/- terminals, use an external BEC unit, or lastly, run the servo straight off the main battery voltage. There were a couple of the older Spektrum receivers that were sensitive to this. I have had the problem before, also lost laps from a transponder that browned out due to losing power caused by the same thing.
  14. It has a lot of mods. My intention with this was to keep it recognisable as a Hotshot, with the original chassis and front monoshock layout. It races pretty well, but ultimately loses to the Cat XLS and other Hotshot-based cars with upgraded chassis and conventional independent suspension, plus I only run brushed motors and 2" wheels as that's what I like. Changes: Front independent torsion bar suspension system plus monoshock. This is not an anti-roll bar despite how it looks New geometry CNC machined suspension arms, carbon fibre levers, Durango shock Custom steering set up using carbon low profile bell cranks Bump-steer elimination blocks outboard CNC hinge pin braces Rear - CNC tower, aluminium tower mounts and Pro-Line Powerstroke shocks There is a thread on it on Tamiyaclub, but most of the pics are dead now.
  15. Before you bin it, I suggest ripping off all the connectors and direct solder the ESC to the motor, with the shortest leads you can get away with. In my experience with many sensorless systems over the years, it makes a massive difference.
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