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About LongRat

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  • Location
    Wotton-under-Edge, UK
  • Interests
    CNC machining, model engineering, scratch builds, model engine building, RC car racing, model flying.

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  1. Definitely worth checking the crystals like Mad Ax suggested, the Tx and Rx crystals are NOT the same and the Tx one must not be plugged into the receiver or it won't work. I think the most likely problem is that the receiver has blown up due to seeing unregulated pack voltage through the 104 ESC.
  2. No you need the main battery connected, the ESC will not get any power to it without that. You just need to ensure this power isn't passed through to the receiver - that gets its power from the 4x AA pack. Without the main battery connected, you should still be able to move the steering servo though. If you can't do this, I suspect the receiver is toast.
  3. The TEU104 puts full main battery voltage straight through to the receiver. Most receivers are ok with it, but I have seen it blow up a Hitec one the first time the system was connected. The receiver might have been damaged and that therefore could be the problem. However, when you tried the 4x AA pack, looks like you still had the ESC connected to the receiver supplying full battery voltage at the same time. In order to power the receiver from the AA pack, you need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC plug into the receiver to stop it feeding power in there. The white signal and black ground wires should still be present and plugged in though.
  4. Thanks Matthias. In practice I've found that the spring washers move such a small amount when the clutch pressure is adjusted it doesn't have a significant effect on the gear mesh. On the subject of decoupling the front and rear axles, to achieve this you could modify the standard centre diff with friction pegs instead of balls. The issue when racing is that this would slip the front under braking and so the rear under acceleration and I think handling might be inconsistent. Basically most modern 4wd transmissions are locked 4wd and slip the whole drivetrain together, like my design. Take a look at the machined components here:
  5. I've been talking to a few people, especially Top Force racers who are really interested in this concept. I need to test it properly and work to make it easier to make if I go forward with this. As it stands the clutch is too difficult and time consuming to make in any quantity.
  6. The pressure plates are machined to key directly with the shaft, so they can't move rotationally relative to each other. Compression of the spring washers is achieved via the screw in the end of the shaft, just like in the standard ball diff option. I used a modern Schumacher 48DP slipper spur gear and pads, although the gear had to be machined slightly to fit and the central bore enlarged. The whole thing is an extremely tight fit!
  7. Here's my Avante that I started working on for the 2019 Revival. I'll document the modifications here. It's a 2011 rerelease, with mods to improve performance and durability but the intention is to keep it as an identifiable Avante. I don't want to wrap the body around a modern chassis or transform it into an Egress etc. Mods Increased suspension travel so the chassis grounds out before the shocks. This is using small bore TRF aeration shocks and custom made carbon towers. Adjustable caster front end to mount the suspension arms at various angles, using a machined aluminium bulkhead. Slipper clutch to allow locked permanent 4WD but with some stress relief on the gears. The clutch is quite heavily ventilated as it is in a very confined and sealed space in there. There are plenty of other changes I will likely make, but I would like to get some racing under its belt first to see how these changes perform.
  8. Lee's car is running one of my aluminium transmission braces. I didn't make any of the other parts on this one, though.
  9. Aircraft can pull higher currents for a greater proportion of the time but don't tend to see such high spikes, as a general rule. Plenty of high performance aircraft run for sub 5 minutes, not the case with cars nowadays.
  10. Welcome to the world of BS battery specification and labelling! What you will find is that you will struggle to buy a battery that isn't capable of your needs (lets say, a 12T motor, 2 cell 7.4V in the XV-01), according to label specs. With that motor you would expect easily 20 minutes worst case runtime on a 6000 mAh pack. Which equates to an average current draw of 18 amps. Or, an average of 3C (3 x 6000 mA = 18000 mA). There are no batteries on the market with a C rating that low. If it was only a small 3000mAh pack, the same current draw would be a 6C discharge rate - still lower than basically anything being sold. So on that basis, pretty much anything should work. The 'burst' or spike rating has no real definition from most battery resellers and certainly no consistency across the RC marketplace, but is probably more important with car use, as these spikes can be big. Like over 100A, but for fractions of a second only. Which batteries are better able to handle that is impossible to gauge from labels and only slightly more clear from personal testimonies. My advice? Buy a battery of the right size for your car (a major factor for XV-01) with the right number of cells. Don't worry too much about the junk written on the label.
  11. This is a Nikko Unlimited Performance 240. The chamfer on the aluminium is deeper than the Kyosho Le Mans series. Check it out: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=58415&id=11629
  12. Sensorless motors do know where the rotor is, they are not blind. They just only know where it is if the rotor is moving. They rely on current induced in non-powered coils to work out rotor position. As long as the rotor is moving, current is being induced in these coils and the ESC knows the rotor position.
  13. CNC machined front tower for the Vanquish. Popular option for much needed strength. £12 each posted worldwide for free.
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