SubaruBrattJunkie

Sad news indeed. We will be pulling for you Lee and hoping for a positive outcome.

It looks great! As hard as the Mudstar tires are to come by these look just fine. Fine looking chain drive all the way.

Beautiful work! Nice save. Saw a few of those shocks looking for Gallop parts, hopefully the same length. Nice save on the driver!

I have Lunsford turnbuckles on my Avante. The ones between the shocks. There is no problem using good parts to replace others. It used to be easier to get parts for the older rigs, not so much anymore. I recently went looking for a MO4L chassis for my BMW body. There were not really any! Doing restorations is a real challenge these days and won't get any easier as time passes. I have been using stainless screws also, easy to get and tough. Sure do like that Cosworth body!

As to why, it was to get the chrome underneath to enhance the depth of reflection of the color. It will work with a transparent type of paint but did not with the metallic type. The other factor as mentioned is the paint does not stick all that well to the chrome and will peel off, on wheels, which have a lot less surface area, it looks as it should, over the surface of the body, it was very difficult to get even. The wheels will not wear all that well either I am afraid, even properly painted and primed ones tend to scratch easily. For looks it doesn't matter. A lot of the way it will turn out depends entirely on the paint, the anodized colors will work better than most of the others. I did all of the aluminum on a Frog with gold and it looks super, it will however be a shelf queen due to the fragility of the paint. It has been clear coated over but I am still afraid that it is too prone to scratching to run, that is just from reassembling the car. The wheels are gold chrome so they would be a durable as gold wheels always are, show every nick. Nice wheels dog.

I just found one and have the manual! It hit the mail today, it is in about 85% shape and all there. Seems that Tower had the exclusive importation rights in the states, this one is supposed to run, we shall see, Kyosho number 125!

I had the same thought on my WWII. The chrome has some sort of coating on it already and it did not like the clear type of paint that I used on it, in hindsight I would have used Spaz Stix clear color on it instead, the hard anodizing type. I ended up priming and spraying the metallic red I used and clear coating over it, all Pactra products. I built the Jeep for the fabulous driver doll that the Toymaker created and it was red to match the theme. As was mentioned, the Spaz Stix chrome under the clear might work, but it was really designed to be used on the inside of the body and I had no luck using it on the bumpers of my Alpine. There are some other chrome paints that actually look like chrome, but I have not seen one for exterior work, most are made for lexan. I have seen flames and the like painted on the chrome Blitzer, but again, the chrome did nothing for the paint over it. It seems a natural for a clear type of blue or red over the chrome, but as I went looking through all of the Haulers on the site, I didn't see any that really were getting the desired effect, let us know if you do find one that works, I have tried it on wheels as well and with pretty much the same problem, but not with the hard anodizing paint, may be worth another go.

Our track does not stock Tamiya parts because they are too hard to get and no one seriously races them. I tried for 2 seasons to run an Evo III and for a few races a 415, but both kept getting slaughtered by X-Ray's and that is what I finally ended up racing in electric. In nitro 1/8th on road, Tamiya doesn't even make a car for that class so it is pretty much dominated by Serpent's. Kyosho tried for a while to make a car to compete in the long distance races and the Evolva is a nice car, but again, no support for it. There are a few Neanderthals that swear in front of children, but it is far worse at a soccer game or a football game, it is supposed to be about the kids but the parents are the ones duking it out in the stands. Our track is also in danger of being closed and I am driving 90 miles one way as it is. I wish there was an indoor track for carpet racing in the winter, but there does not seem to be enough interest to justify anyone putting any money into it. There are some really nice carpet cars still being made and Bolink has started remaking one of their greatest cars and keeping parts again for it. I guess the track closing would be the thing I really hated that most!

It isn't the spoiled kids so much as their parents! I have seen one encourage his kid to run the wrong way around the track and cause as much damage as he can, his pal owns the track and the guy that complained when his car was broken was banned from the track. That is what really gets me going, it was not long after that he was ran off the road in every race he entered and him and dad came missing and the track changed hands, but it can get very petty. Seems like a Mo-3 and a 415 were in the wrong class together, but we have races like that. anything goes so I suppose it isn't that odd!

Or when the spoiled brat kid makes his father do it because its toooo hot!!! Waaaaah! Can't say as I have seen the fat kid do it but have seen the spoiled brat kids dad do it on several occasions, now the track makes them pay the entry fee and sign the waver in case they get killed by flying 1/10th electric cars. I have seen some pretty good ankle shots in my racing times. Some people should just not be allowed around moving objects! LOL, B

I am glad that I have not had to deal with that little bit of the devil. There is talk of a figure 8 track next year with a criss cross in the middle. Our new 1/8th Formula type track for racing unlimited was a new challenge but it does not have enough of a straight section to justify a car that will do better than a hundred and then smoke the brake to get into the end of straight turn, my car barely hit second and it was off the throttle, ate up tires as well. Needless to say the engines all ran hotter and that cuts down life expectancy, although I got 10 half hour races out of mine this year and a new piston and rod will probably be all it needs to compete. The new RB's are really nice, expensive, but nice. I had none of the problems I had with the old one. My 950R did very well against the newer 960's, and I don't see enough difference between the two cars to spend another 600+ on one yet. It ate several Evolvas for lunch and I am afraid as hard as Kyosho is for parts their racing days, unless you are sponsored, are finished. Most everyone was running a Serpent by the end of the season. I hope they don't see this and get any ideas about a chicane!

I haven't seen any of these at the track as of yet. I have noticed an increase in different makes of cars and trucks, some are more successful than others. So far the brand names that have the luxury of being able to get hop-up parts and speed parts makes them turn up in the A main more often than the others. I am still not going to send my money to china even if they are giving them away, but I am appreciating the innovations that are starting to appear.

Hi, I would like a set as well please. Are you invoicing Paypal or just having payment made to your account? I understand not wanting to make non-scale rather limited interest tires. Yes they are scarce and bring good money, but very few of us would pay for them not actually running a Scorcher, if they were readily available the price would drop like a Frog body. One of my pet peeves with Tamiya is scale went out the window a lot of times to use off the shelf wheels and tires for several different cars and even trucks. Of course economics was the driving factor and not wanting to price themselves further out of the market certainly explains it, but those of us that appreciate true scale can spot it a mile off. I would imagine the first set of any tire is very expensive and they get more reasonable as the dies and R&D time are divided by more and more sets. I applaud your effort however to make them available, I don't think that unless you have tried to bring something from a drawing to for sale that you can appreciate what it takes to get this accomplished, well done! Let me know on the payment, delivery is no hurry, SBJ

Of course you can add a metal geared servo to it but the expense of doing so is questionable. It will be stronger but the wheel load on a buggy is not nearly what it is on say a Clod, so while it would work perfectly well, the nylon geared one actually will out last the metal one. There is less friction with nylon against nylon and the metal gears tend to wear faster, but they are stronger so in a lot of applications the trade off is worth the money. If your driving skills are up there a quicker servo may make more sense as the response time would be decreased but if you are like me and most of us, it is an advantage that is hard to put to use and may cause more harm than good. I would spend the money on better shocks or tires to suit whatever you are running it on rather than a metal geared servo, more bang for the buck. The higher end servos are really for those blessed with really good reflexes and can take advantage of what they offer, I have used digital, core less, metal geared, and everything inbetween and my 1/4 scale has metal geared servos and big ones at that for oblivious reasons, and I cannot tell the difference for the most part from one to the other. They all respond faster than I do, darn it! Most use Futaba, even Acoms is made by them, although most modern radios all perform really well, I have been using Futaba for 20 years so I like them, but as mentioned there are several really good ones out there, how much do you want to spend?

I have used all 4 and the TRF while the most expensive of the lot do not seem to leak as bad. The shaft being more rigidly held by the alloy body probably would have bent no matter what, the problem is it is hanging out in space to get hit. With nothing to cover them and keep them from getting in harms way there isn't really a shock out there that will not bend under the circumstances unless you went to Traxxas heavy shafted, but I suspect they would not fit the space and would look out of proportion to the rest of the buggy, or something else would have given out. I have used them however in some of my larger trucks with great success due to the extra throw and the extra oil not to mention the extra heavy shock shaft. I don't think the TRF's would be long enough for this application however being as they are for on road cars, but Associated and a couple of others make buggy shocks that can really take the beating, when you are racing you use what works best and lasts no matter who made it, if I were racing this buggy the shocks would have been the first thing gone, followed by the tires and wheels. I wish that Tech Racing would make more parts for racing but they seem stuck on on road cars. For now it seems we are stuck with aftermarket knock offs some better than others.