trucknut

This is the parts list that I got from the back of the manual of my re-release brat. 9005139 spur gear bag (49T, 52T, 50T, and diff spur gear) all of these come in the same bage. 53008 sealed ball bearing for all the gears in the gear box. (you need 4 of them) 3545005 18T drive gear These are the options for pinion gears. 3515004 16T pinion 3515006 18T pinion 3515007 19T pinion 9808038 Drive shaft (need 2 of them) 9808039 Wheel axle (need 2 of them) 9808070 Gear box joint short and long (MD15 and MD16) 53689 540-J Motor As far as the gear box metal plates they are the same as the original and just re-use the same gear axle stubs. You may be able to find some of these on tamiya.com or towerhobbies.com Good Luck

Just had a thought, how about we create a club decal or flag to put on our rc tamiya cars. That way when we are on the track or in the street we can show that we are a part of something. Could say something like Tamiyaclub or tamiya for life. Whats ya'alls thoughts.

Yes that is what it will look like. It looks just like the vintage pajero chasis.

HunterZero brought up some points from my last post that I may need to explain. The brat used the same chasis as the frog so the chasis was high end but the original used a 380 motor which decreased its power. When I said the locked diff or lack of diff gave it better handling, it helps to reduce the slipping of the tires on dirt, I rock crawl with rc trucks and locked diffs give you better traction. And when I said it was a good investment, really only for your own personal enjoyment, they're fun to drive or use as a shelf queen, I drive all my rc trucks. The remake, which is what I own, is up to "frog spec" because it uses a 540 motor and ESC. Sorry for the vague response.

Mongoose, thats awesome you could get your hands on an old brat. They are so rare, I want to get one some day. Did it have the 1.6 or the 1.9L engine in it. Looks like a real mud truck, need to fix the hood though.

For the servo, I would just get a futaba 1003s servo, they are $10 at any hobby store or online. As far as the batteries you could try to charge them and then drain the charge over and over again, if batteries are left alone for a long time they lose their ability to hold a charge. If you take them and charge then drain over and over again for about 5 times then you may be able to save them. I would invest in a peak charger, they can charge a battery anywhere between 15min to an hour. The tower Hobbies digital charger works very well it is around $45. If you need a new battery try venom or duratrax, I'd recomend an Nimh battery anywhere between 2500mah to 4600mah. The two 5 min batteries you have sound like cheap Nicads. Best of luck and have fun

I know that, but might as well metion it anyway right. Make sure you are holding down the set button before you turn the car on though.

I had this problem with my 4wd ford race truck. On the ESC there is a small red plug. You need to plug this into the reciever where it says BATT. or battery. Some recievers have two little grooves for this plug. If not then line up the color of the two wires to the ch. 1 and 2 wires. Then program the ESC, you have to hold down on the set button before you turn the car on, turn it on and keep holding it down until you get the beeps or flash. Then follow the directions on the little slip of paper that came with the car. Good Luck

TA-MARK is right, the switch will only turn off the radio system. Sounds like you just need to invest in a new servo for the speed control. As far as the melting wires, the mechanical speed control is designed to run at full speed. If you run it at slow speeds all the time it creats resistance in the metal box that says "caution HOT". You could do one of two things, if the wires melt completly then buy a new tamiya mech. speed control for around $30 ro invest in a tamiya ESC for around $50 or $60. I think all you need is a standard $10 servo for the speed control to fix the problem. Make sure you adjust the servo arm so it is parrallel with the speed control.

You might want to invest in some speed bearings for the gears so the plastic bushings don't wear out (if the frog dosen't have them already). As for driving it on flat ground or the street, I wouldn't worry about it,shouldn't be to much resistance. I would not drive it in grass or deep dirt, that may be too much resistance for the gears that have that much power behind them. I would be more concerned with the vibration that thing gets at high speeds. If you can, look into some metal spurr gears and a better diff. You may need to do some mods in the sealed gear box to fit them.

NIKKOs are only good at one thing, collecting dust.

I have over 15 rc cars from companies like traxxas, duratrax, HPI, LOSI, XTM, axial, and good old tamiya. My favorite rc cars are by far tamiyas. I own the clod buster, brat, pumpkin, 4wd pajero, and 4wd ford race truck. They are so detailed and reliable. My 2 losi trucks break all the time and traxxas are not very detailed. Whats ya'alls favorite rc car company.

I guess their bike would cost less if they had the cheap walmart bikes, they are only good for scrap metal

Chuck it and buy a new one, just kidding. You may need to buy some battery clear "shrinkrap" and some new leads. just line up the new cells in two 3 cell lines, opserve polarity, sodder the leads to the upper plat and connect the lower plate, slip the whole thing into the new shrinkwrap shell, put on the plastic end covers and use a hair dryer to heat the clear plastic. To be honest with you, I'd spend the $10 or $20 for a new one.

Tamiya subaru brat was the top of line back in its day. The original used a 380s motor similar to the grasshopper and used the same chasis as the frog. It had injection mold hardshell body and a mechanical speed control. It had good traction on dirt since it had a "locked" diff and good tight steering. Every thing on the front suspension is adjustable, caster, toe, and you could tighten the torsion arms to adjust the suspension. I have the brat remake which is the same as the original except it uses a 540 sport tuned motor and esc which gives it more power than the original. The brat is a good investment, it has plenty of power and is a lot of fun to kick up dirt or sand, you will get a lot of fun out of it.

Lookn' good, I love my pumpkin its a fun little truck. you'll have fun with yours too.

Looks like that pumpkin is coming along. I just got my pumpkin metalic chrome edition and it is a lot of fun. Awesome job on the restoration. Git r' done

It all depends on where you sell it. You can say it is worth something but you have to find someone who will pay that price. Considering this is a mint vintage tamiya that is not made any more it could be worth a couple hundred dollars. In my opinion I would hold on to this car and drive it, have fun owning an old school rc.

Really! Im surprised the springs can absorb that impact. Are they stock springs?

As you all may know the midnight pumpkin was a very durable rc truck. I was able to jump mine a distance of around 3 feet off an xfactor skateboard ramp, I didn't want to jump it any higher for fear of the body cracking. How far have you guys jumped your pumpkins.

I run High torque s3305 futaba servos in my clodbuster and rock crawler and they work fine with an nimh battery so don't worry about it.

Yeah your probably right, that sand scorcher is a real collectors item.

Try the rough rider, it had the same decals. If you are interested I saw a sand scorcher on ebay with a current bid of $65, item # is not allowed

Yeah, I reconize that red buggy decal. That sheet is for the vintage tamiya sand scorcher. It was a classic tamiya that looked like a VW beetle dune buggy. The item number is (58016). Look on ebay!

You can get the tamiya light kit on www.towerhobbies.com however I got a set of leds on www.tcscrawlers.com for my 4wd pajero and wired them up with a radio switch to a radio battery box, they just plug in to each other no soddering. For my clod buster I used some bright lights and wired them up to a switch and battery box that all came out of a small toy car.